|
tolman_paul
May 1, 2008, 9:21 PM
Post #26 of 40
(2450 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 22, 2005
Posts: 385
|
Interesting what you mention about the silent partner. I've used a soloist for a long time and was debating "upgrading" to a silent partner. After looking at the instructions on the silent parter, I'll happily keep my chest harness and soloist, and just add back up knots if I'm in an overhang or will otherwise face an inverted fall.
I haven't tried the continuous loop method, and yeah, hauling sucks. I'm thinking perhaps the best method to avoid hauling would be to travel light enough to fit your bivvy gear in a backpack and put the pack on while jugging up after cleaning the pitch.
|
|
|
|
|
ptlong
May 1, 2008, 11:47 PM
Post #27 of 40
(2435 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2007
Posts: 418
|
kevinhansen wrote: Several times the Silent Partner turned into its own Cluster F. It would have been tonz better if I could have tied the Clove hitch upside down. So the tails of the lines exit the bottom of the device rather than the top. This would be significantly easier to feed the rope through on lead. What say ya'll. I noticed that the silent partner would short rope me a lot. Especially when I'm steping up into the top steps on small gear, or when I had to bust a free move once and a while. Kevin
I'm not sure what you mean by top and bottom of the SP, but it definately makes a big difference which way you orient the clove hitch.
Is this how you had it threaded?
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
May 2, 2008, 12:10 AM
Post #28 of 40
(2427 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
tolman_paul wrote: Interesting what you mention about the silent partner. I've used a soloist for a long time and was debating "upgrading" to a silent partner. After looking at the instructions on the silent parter, I'll happily keep my chest harness and soloist, and just add back up knots if I'm in an overhang or will otherwise face an inverted fall. I haven't tried the continuous loop method, and yeah, hauling sucks. I'm thinking perhaps the best method to avoid hauling would be to travel light enough to fit your bivvy gear in a backpack and put the pack on while jugging up after cleaning the pitch.
Problem is, it throws your CG off just enough to make juggin a PITA.
the nice thing about such a small, light-weight pig is that it's easy to leg-haul once you've jugged/cleaned to the anchor, and if you're using 7-8mm static for your haul it's really not much extra weight.
The static also makes a handy pull or tag line, but since we're talkin solo, you shouldn't be tagging much. Some have been known to attach the remainder of the rack to the haul line on a fifi, making it possible to pull it up to you should you decide that you need an additional piece or two. Don' ask me about details with that system though, as I've never done it. Search PTPP's numerous diatribes, I'm sure you'll find something there about such practices.
|
|
|
|
|
anthonypmason
May 2, 2008, 12:21 AM
Post #29 of 40
(2425 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 27, 2008
Posts: 18
|
I have been using ny silent partner for the last seven years for trad and sport climbing, and recently I have been delving into solo aid with it. sorry forgot the question?
|
|
|
|
|
kevinhansen
May 2, 2008, 4:43 AM
Post #30 of 40
(2405 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2007
Posts: 54
|
ptlong wrote: kevinhansen wrote: Several times the Silent Partner turned into its own Cluster F. It would have been tonz better if I could have tied the Clove hitch upside down. So the tails of the lines exit the bottom of the device rather than the top. This would be significantly easier to feed the rope through on lead. What say ya'll. I noticed that the silent partner would short rope me a lot. Especially when I'm steping up into the top steps on small gear, or when I had to bust a free move once and a while. Kevin I'm not sure what you mean by top and bottom of the SP, but it definately makes a big difference which way you orient the clove hitch. Is this how you had it threaded? [image]http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/3791/85313250gd7.jpg[/image]
Yes I've only rigged the Silent Partner the way shown above,(In the manual) however the amount of drag is just that a drag. I found that the clove hitch gets too tight and I have to manualy pull the rope down from the device to the gear all the time. It seams to me tieing the clove hitch upside down so the tails pay out down would cause less drag. Why can't I do it? The big reason why I havn't done it yet are the words "Its very important that the rope leaves the housing as shown." In the attachment below I modified the stock photo to show how I want to rig it. Note that THIS IS NOT HOW THE MANUAL SAYS YOU SHOULD RIG THE SILENT PARTNER but why can't I?
(This post was edited by kevinhansen on May 2, 2008, 4:48 AM)
|
|
Attachments:
|
Silent partner.jpg
(14.6 KB)
|
|
|
|
|
moose_droppings
May 2, 2008, 5:41 AM
Post #31 of 40
(2400 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371
|
kevinhansen wrote: I noticed that the silent partner would short rope me a lot. Especially when I'm steping up into the top steps on small gear, or when I had to bust a free move once and a while. Kevin
I've never used a silent partner before, so I'm guessing here. Is it possible that you got the weight of to much line pulling on it below? With some devices this is fixed by taking the weight of the rope off the device by putting a prussik or rubber band on the rope and fixing it to a piece of pro after 60' or so.
|
|
|
|
|
kevinhansen
May 6, 2008, 2:38 AM
Post #32 of 40
(2292 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2007
Posts: 54
|
Ok So I went to the local carg today and did some top rope soloing. I used my thinner line that was a 10.5 and it worked great. The best part was when I got the top of the route I didn't rig anything different and rapped down. I love IT!
I rigged the line the way I wanted and the rope drag became impossable. I guess the designers were right after all.
I guess I'm going to buy a thiner line for big wall use. What is the thinest line I can lead on and yet still have a long life with it?
Kevin
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
May 6, 2008, 3:06 AM
Post #33 of 40
(2288 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
kevinhansen wrote: Ok So I went to the local carg today and did some top rope soloing. I used my thinner line that was a 10.5 and it worked great. The best part was when I got the top of the route I didn't rig anything different and rapped down. I love IT! I rigged the line the way I wanted and the rope drag became impossable. I guess the designers were right after all. I guess I'm going to buy a thiner line for big wall use. What is the thinest line I can lead on and yet still have a long life with it? Kevin 
Personally, I find ropes of less than 10.2mm to be a bit disconcerting when 1200' off the ground, especially with all the wear+tear a rope is subjected to when wig-ballin'. I doubt I'd take that same 10.2mm up another wall if I had the choice, though its been used for day-craggin' at the local climbs since then.
|
|
|
|
|
skiclimb
May 6, 2008, 7:13 AM
Post #34 of 40
(2282 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 11, 2004
Posts: 1938
|
I've been using 9.8 with my silent partner for years ...No problem However I think that is below the minimum recommended
I test it carefully taking good overhanging falls while tyed into another line each time i get a new thin rope to make sure it will catch easily.
|
|
|
|
|
Tree_wrangler
May 7, 2008, 12:23 AM
Post #35 of 40
(2251 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 8, 2007
Posts: 403
|
In reply to: I've been using 9.8 with my silent partner for years ...No problem However I think that is below the minimum recommended
That's not correct. The Silent Partner is actually designed for slightly thinner lines. I've heard of people going as low as 9.2 or so, although that's pretty thin. 10.2 seems to be the thickest I've heard of folks using, and most weren't happy with the way it feeds for free climbing.
I'm using 9.8 also. It's important that the rope is dry-treated, and I've taken a couple good lead falls on the system. It's been a pretty soft catch every time, and the 9.8 is thick enough for some peace of mind.
On aid, I've tried my 10.5 (not dry). On aid, the way thick ropes (don't) feed doesn't matter so much, since your hands are free to pull the line through the device. It feeds just fine with a little help.
|
|
|
|
|
ptlong
May 7, 2008, 2:47 AM
Post #36 of 40
(2238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2007
Posts: 418
|
kevinhansen wrote: I rigged the line the way I wanted and the rope drag became impossable. I guess the designers were right after all.
A thick fuzzy rope or pulling at a weird angle or no backup loop all can cause the SP to lock up. But as you quickly learned, rigging it the wrong way pretty much guarantees it.
|
|
|
|
|
ptlong
May 7, 2008, 2:50 AM
Post #37 of 40
(2236 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2007
Posts: 418
|
Tree_wrangler wrote: In reply to: I've been using 9.8 with my silent partner for years ...No problem However I think that is below the minimum recommended That's not correct. The Silent Partner is actually designed for slightly thinner lines. I've heard of people going as low as 9.2 or so, although that's pretty thin. 10.2 seems to be the thickest I've heard of folks using, and most weren't happy with the way it feeds for free climbing.
"USE ONLY UIAA APPROVED DYNAMIC CLIMBING ROPES
FROM 9.8mm TO 11 mm WITH THE SILENT PARTNER."
http://www.wrenindustries.com/silentmanual.pdf
|
|
|
|
|
kevinhansen
May 7, 2008, 4:06 PM
Post #38 of 40
(2214 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2007
Posts: 54
|
ptlong wrote: Tree_wrangler wrote: In reply to: I've been using 9.8 with my silent partner for years ...No problem However I think that is below the minimum recommended That's not correct. The Silent Partner is actually designed for slightly thinner lines. I've heard of people going as low as 9.2 or so, although that's pretty thin. 10.2 seems to be the thickest I've heard of folks using, and most weren't happy with the way it feeds for free climbing. "USE ONLY UIAA APPROVED DYNAMIC CLIMBING ROPES FROM 9.8mm TO 11 mm WITH THE SILENT PARTNER." http://www.wrenindustries.com/silentmanual.pdf
Thats funny, I've read the manual and the pdf and can't find that exact quote about the diameter rope used. the best thing I could find was under the "helpful hints" there is a paragraph that says;
"ROPE FEED
— The type of rope used will affect the rope feed assistance. The
easiest feed is with a 10mm, supple, dry treated rope in fairly new
condition. The average 10.5 mm dry free climbing rope feeds quite
well. A stiff, worn, 11 mm rope does not feed very well."
I guess I'm in the market for a new dynamic line. All my lead lines are 10.5 and bigger. I'd like to have a skinney 70 meter line for it multi pitch stuff. I'm thinking about Petzl's real skinny 9.4
http://www.rei.com/product/750706?storeId=8000&catalogId=40000008000
What do you know about this rope?
Kevin
|
|
|
|
|
ptlong
May 7, 2008, 5:05 PM
Post #39 of 40
(2197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2007
Posts: 418
|
kevinhansen wrote: Thats funny, I've read the manual and the pdf and can't find that exact quote about the diameter rope used.
Do a search in the PDF on "use only" and up comes page 7.
In reply to: the best thing I could find was under the "helpful hints" there is a paragraph that says; "ROPE FEED — The type of rope used will affect the rope feed assistance. The easiest feed is with a 10mm, supple, dry treated rope in fairly new condition. The average 10.5 mm dry free climbing rope feeds quite well. A stiff, worn, 11 mm rope does not feed very well."
True enough. I use a 10mm and it feeds best when the rope is relatively new.
But using a rope below what they spec... What do you suppose might happen? Something to think about while you're up there.
|
|
|
|
|
Truck
May 12, 2008, 7:46 PM
Post #40 of 40
(2126 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 6, 2007
Posts: 67
|
I used the thing for years. I bought one when they first came on the market. It is much better to use thinner ropes. I use a 10.2. It will become easier over time. No device feeds perfect all the time. I have used it with 11mm when I had to and don't find it all that bad to manage. Loosening up the clove hitch becomes subconscious after a while as will when and where to take the slack out of the system. It really is more about you getting the whole system dialed than just a skinny rope to make it easy but the skinny rope helps. Do alot of solo climbing and it will become easy to manage fast...if you only use it once or twice a year it might never be easy. AT least that is how it worked for me.
Truck
|
|
|
|
|
|
