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petsfed
Aug 25, 2008, 10:39 PM
Post #76 of 84
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Registered: Sep 25, 2002
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kriso9tails wrote: mar_leclerc wrote: Buy some real pro! Sport climbers like to travel light. For this reason they avoid the weighty things that trad climbers carry around like helmets, pro and bullshit excuses for not climbing hard.
I like to sling my bullshit excuses for not climbing hard on 5.5mm spectra cord. It helps them nest better with the ham sandwiches and the 4 nut tools I have on my rack.
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dingus
Aug 25, 2008, 10:57 PM
Post #77 of 84
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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jt512 wrote: patmay81 wrote: Or is there a better word for "jambing your hands and feet in a crack and working your way up" than climbing? "Grovelling." Jay P.S. It's "jamming," not "jambing."
There is an area near here that consists of an ancient lahar flow that solidified in a river bed, then was left high by subsequent erosion. It consists of blocks of fairly solid rock, from basketball to file cabinet sized, all jammed and hopefully welded together. There are all these mini-cracks, for the lack of a better term, seperating the blocks.
Tried the trad thing on em 2 decades ago - SCARY! Took pro well, but pro served as lever to dislodge blocks. DONCHYA DARE FALL!
Modern sport weanie tactics took the sting right outta those blocks. Now there are dozens of delightful sport routes, easy to hard. Many of these climbs sport offer quality jams; fingers, hands, fists, etc.
Its always interesting to watch each climber experss her preference by either using or ignoring these cracks.
Takes a whole village to make Rock Soup though....
DMT
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patmay81
Aug 25, 2008, 11:13 PM
Post #78 of 84
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In reply to: Those are trad climbs (don't argue with a man that owns a pit of unknown depth)
so he's right with out a doubt.
I just thought sport climbing was more about the trying a climb until redpoint (ie. cobra crack and roddens new 5.14), than about what type of pro (ie. bolts vs cams/nuts) used.
Clearly, and in the face of a pit of unknown depth, I was wrong. And am man enough, and afraid of the actual depth of previously mentioned pit, to admit it.
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chossmonkey
Aug 26, 2008, 12:48 AM
Post #79 of 84
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
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jammer wrote: Tell me one climber that can climb harder in trad that they can in sport ...
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mar_leclerc
Aug 26, 2008, 5:04 AM
Post #80 of 84
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Registered: Jun 1, 2008
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jrathfon wrote: the OP was the 14 year old recommending a solo forum for people who climb without ropes.... not a free solo forum mind you.
Im 15 ...
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sungam
Aug 26, 2008, 9:47 AM
Post #81 of 84
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jt512 wrote: P.S. It's "jamming," not "jambing."
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timd
Aug 26, 2008, 10:55 AM
Post #82 of 84
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Registered: Dec 21, 2003
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mar_leclerc wrote: Buy some real pro!
STFU
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dingus
Aug 26, 2008, 12:28 PM
Post #83 of 84
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sungam wrote: jt512 wrote: P.S. It's "jamming," not "jambing." Suuurrreee it is...
Jambalaya!
DMT
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j_ung
Aug 26, 2008, 1:48 PM
Post #84 of 84
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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patmay81 wrote: In reply to: Those are trad climbs (don't argue with a man that owns a pit of unknown depth) I'm definetly not here to argue. I have 6 years of experience being a n00b and have no intention of quitting my n00b ways. so he's right with out a doubt. I just thought sport climbing was more about the trying a climb until redpoint (ie. cobra crack and roddens new 5.14), than about what type of pro (ie. bolts vs cams/nuts) used. Clearly, and in the face of a pit of unknown depth, I was wrong. And am man enough, and afraid of the actual depth of previously mentioned pit, to admit it.
You should be!
In all seriousness, though, some might say, "Hey those aren't trad climbs." But what they're actually referring to, even though some of them don't realize it, is the style in which those climbs have been climbed. You can argue (I might or might not agree with you) that they were climbed in less than pure trad style. But the climbs themselves are what they are, regardless of what a bunch of sticky-soled, cam-sporting, mostly hairless apes call them.
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