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redneck
Sep 28, 2008, 10:30 PM
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this accident happened to me canyoneering but a valuable lesson can be learned from it. i went to set up an anchor for a rappel nobody double checked that i did it right. i ended up falling 15 feet and spraining my ankle. the problem was a failed anchor. so lesson learned when setting up top ropes. double cheak your anchors. i take pride in free climbing routes but theres no point in risking the life of my unexperienced friends.
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shockabuku
Sep 28, 2008, 10:42 PM
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redneck wrote: this accident happened to me canyoneering but a valuable lesson can be learned from it. i went to set up an anchor for a rappel nobody double checked that i did it right. i ended up falling 15 feet and spraining my ankle. the problem was a failed anchor. so lesson learned when setting up top ropes. double cheak your anchors. i take pride in free climbing routes but theres no point in risking the life of my unexperienced friends.
Good choice of name by the way.
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sungam
Sep 28, 2008, 11:19 PM
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redneck wrote: this accident happened to me canyoneering but a valuable lesson can be learned from it. i went to set up an anchor for a rappel nobody double checked that i did it right. i ended up falling 15 feet and spraining my ankle. the problem was a failed anchor. so lesson learned when setting up top ropes. double cheak your anchors. i take pride in free climbing routes but theres no point in risking the life of my unexperienced friends.
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alleyehave
Sep 29, 2008, 12:13 AM
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redneck wrote: this accident happened to me canyoneering but a valuable lesson can be learned from it. i went to set up an anchor for a rappel nobody double checked that i did it right. i ended up falling 15 feet and spraining my ankle. the problem was a failed anchor. so lesson learned when setting up top ropes. double cheak your anchors. i take pride in free climbing routes but theres no point in risking the life of my unexperienced friends.
Yeah, problem is, I gotta wait for my second to come up and check it. uhh.... I think the better message here would be, know what the fck you're doing before doing it.
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sungam
Sep 29, 2008, 12:27 AM
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alleyehave wrote: redneck wrote: this accident happened to me canyoneering but a valuable lesson can be learned from it. i went to set up an anchor for a rappel nobody double checked that i did it right. i ended up falling 15 feet and spraining my ankle. the problem was a failed anchor. so lesson learned when setting up top ropes. double cheak your anchors. i take pride in free climbing routes but theres no point in risking the life of my unexperienced friends. Yeah, problem is, I gotta wait for my second to come up and check it. uhh.... I think the better message here would be, know what the fck you're doing before doing it.
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time2clmb
Sep 29, 2008, 2:05 AM
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redneck wrote: this accident happened to me canyoneering but a valuable lesson can be learned from it. i went to set up an anchor for a rappel nobody double checked that i did it right. i ended up falling 15 feet and spraining my ankle. the problem was a failed anchor. so lesson learned when setting up top ropes. double cheak your anchors. i take pride in free climbing routes but theres no point in risking the life of my unexperienced friends.
It kind of comes across that you are laying blame on your anchor not being double checked by some one else. If you need some one to double check on your setup, then chances are you are pretty green. The problem here is that you need to know what you are doing before you start pissing around by yourself with anchors. Your right, there is absolutely no point in risking the life of your unexperienced friends. Please please please get competent in the skills before taking out more begginers.
Thanks for posting this. It takes balls to post up an error on a public message board open for the hounds to attack. Not many people are willing to do that, so good for you.
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robdotcalm
Sep 29, 2008, 2:23 AM
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Thanks for posting despite knowing you'd get insulted for being honest. Some details on what was wrong with the anchor could help others.
Cheers,
Rob.calm
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coolcat83
Sep 29, 2008, 2:31 AM
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details would be good, some of those canyon anchors look pretty sketchy. most of the time when climbing you don't have someone to double check your placements and anchors, you learn and have it wired before you go and do it for real.
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i_h8_choss
Sep 29, 2008, 3:41 AM
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cmon. some people anchor of a #2.
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majid_sabet
Sep 29, 2008, 4:18 AM
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I don't know about others but this was a great information, thanks a lot man. we could learn so much if everyone like yourself remind us what to look for while setting up anchors.
god bless you and thanks again.
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redneck
Sep 29, 2008, 4:22 PM
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this anchor was a clove hich anch used for canyoneering. the reason it failed was due to the fact that i was not paying attention. i had built several other anchors that day but lost focus on this one. the reason for double cheaking is because i was in a large group and this is a good example of what can happen when you get too confident and don't pay attention.
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shimanilami
Sep 29, 2008, 4:50 PM
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redneck wrote: this accident happened to me canyoneering but a valuable lesson can be learned from it. i went to set up an anchor for a rappel nobody double checked that i did it right. i ended up falling 15 feet and spraining my ankle. the problem was a failed anchor. so lesson learned when setting up top ropes. double cheak your anchors. i take pride in free climbing routes but theres no point in risking the life of my unexperienced friends.
Let me make sure I understand this correctly. You set up a top-rop anchor, went to rappel off of it, it failed and you fell 15 feet.
15 feet.
You were setting up a top-rope anchor for a climb 15 feet tall.
And then you went to rap off it.
And your anchor failed.
And you fell 15 feet.
I am speechless.
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kaykogi
Sep 29, 2008, 5:06 PM
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Wrong. He said CANYONEERING. That means he wasn't CLIMBING. A lot of the bolts and old glue-in anchors are sketchy and people with little or no experience CANYONEERING just assume that they are safe. I can't tell you how many times I have been stuck behind some guy with a length of rope and a harness that thinks he knows everything about canyoneering because he's been climbing before. If people are going to go and try canyoneering, please go get trained. The American Canyoneering Association offers courses. (http://www.canyoneering.net/...ex.php?categoryid=54)
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sungam
Sep 29, 2008, 5:09 PM
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redneck wrote: this anchor was a clove hich anch used for canyoneering. the reason it failed was due to the fact that i was not paying attention. i had built several other anchors that day but lost focus on this one. the reason for double cheaking is because i was in a large group and this is a good example of what can happen when you get too confident and don't pay attention.
Like, what did the anchor consist of? Trad gear? bolts? a tree?
Did you just mis-tie the clove hitch?
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jdefazio
Sep 29, 2008, 5:45 PM
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sungam wrote: I meant what was the gear involved, not who messed up. Like, what did the anchor consist of? Trad gear? bolts? a tree? Did you just mis-tie the clove hitch?
Is that even possible?
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curtis_g
Sep 29, 2008, 5:54 PM
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jdefazio wrote: sungam wrote: I meant what was the gear involved, not who messed up. Like, what did the anchor consist of? Trad gear? bolts? a tree? Did you just mis-tie the clove hitch? Is that even possible?
best response yet.
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sungam
Sep 29, 2008, 6:25 PM
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curtis_g wrote: jdefazio wrote: sungam wrote: I meant what was the gear involved, not who messed up. Like, what did the anchor consist of? Trad gear? bolts? a tree? Did you just mis-tie the clove hitch? Is that even possible? best response yet.
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shockabuku
Sep 29, 2008, 6:42 PM
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I'm so surprised this thread is a complete disaster!
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jdefazio
Sep 29, 2008, 6:45 PM
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sungam wrote: curtis_g wrote: jdefazio wrote: sungam wrote: I meant what was the gear involved, not who messed up. Like, what did the anchor consist of? Trad gear? bolts? a tree? Did you just mis-tie the clove hitch? Is that even possible? best response yet. Maybe he tied it as a italian hitch?
Perhaps his knot inspector was not familiar with it.
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redneck
Sep 30, 2008, 2:12 AM
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i did just mis-tie the clove hitch and had no knot inspecter. i admit it was my fault the anchor failed but i started this thread to encourage people to make sure they know what they're doing and that someone else who knows what they're doing double cheaks the work before useing the anchor. this thread may not be practical for lead climbs but can serve its purpose for top ropeing. as for what the anchor consisted of, it was two hangers with brand new webbing and a rap ring.
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suilenroc
Sep 30, 2008, 2:42 AM
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Interesting posts... The second you stop double checking yourself is the same second you should consider choosing another activity. Accidents do happen and should be learned from, shared, and criticized. Thanks mango for taking the time to tell us all.
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redneck
Sep 30, 2008, 3:08 AM
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to tie a clove hitch anchor you run the rope through the rape ring and tie a clove-hitch around a spare carabiner. this fixes one side of the rope to rappel down. the other side you pull from the bottom to retrieave your rope and carabiner from the top i tied the knot wrong and it had the same effect as if i had tied into the unfixed half of the rope
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sungam
Sep 30, 2008, 3:21 AM
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In the future I would just put the rope through the rap ring so the halfway point is at the ring, then rappel on two strands. There's two slots in your belay plate for a reason, it's so you can do this.
Then just pull one end of the rope.
This saves you trusting your knots that need double check- though, honestly, if you need you knots double checked you shouldn't be in the canyons, unless it's with the teacher.
Especially with a knot as easy as the clove hitch.
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