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fastkite
Oct 4, 2008, 1:37 AM
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I am in the process of assembling a new guidebook for Mount Nemo.
The basis for this book is aerial photos & use of colour and other aids to make route selecting and finding an enjoyable activity.
I would like to collect any information about undocumented routes to properly give credit where due. Please reply to this, or send me a PM if you have any new information.
Cheers!
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granite_grrl
Oct 6, 2008, 12:41 AM
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Interesting....I hope this works out well for you. The old guide book is terribly hard to figure out certain lines. There are many routes in the Milton area that I have tried to climb but have no idea if I did the route (or ANY route).
Sorry that I don't have any information for you, I just want to with you luck and give this thread a bump.
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chossmonkey
Oct 6, 2008, 1:58 AM
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There shouldn't be many undocumented routes since there is a moratorium on new routes.
The current book definitely could use an upgrade though.
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geezergecko
Oct 6, 2008, 6:55 PM
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Why stop at Nemo? How about a new guidebook for all the Milton crags (Nemo, Buffalo, Bottleglass, Rattlesnake, Kelso) and then a separate guidebook for the northern crags (Metcalfe, Baldy, Lionshead, etc.). Oh, to be able to dream...
I applaud your effort. The ambiguous descriptions in the current guidebook have lost their charm with me.
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armsrforclimbing
Oct 6, 2008, 7:08 PM
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Sounds like a great idea. I would tread carefully though. I have heard rumors over the battles fought out in the pages of the Escarpment Guidebooks. I'm somewhat fuzzy on the details, but apparently the authors of the various guides were taking shots at each other via the FA listings in the guide. Any one know the real story? Is a forum search hopeless? Am I to wrapped up in the microcosm of Escarpment climbing?
Anyway I haven't been out there for the entire summer, so I don't have much to add.
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fastkite
Oct 7, 2008, 8:16 AM
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In reply to: Thanks for the support. So far my project has been received well from both the OAC and local climbers alike. I believe the old guidebook did a good job of describing routes without the use of any visual tools. I certainly could not have done a better job. To be completely honest, there are some routes which have taken me months to locate. The combination of high resolution ground, aerial and satellite photos combined with GPS has allowed me to find most of them. Fortunately, I have enlisted the help of an excellent professional photographer & climber (http://www.trostimages.com/) who has been successful at capturing most of the Mount Nemo walls in such a way that I can lay the routes over top. We should be taking a few photos of Nemo this weekend (weather permitting) to put on the cover page. The hope is the leaves, visibility and light will allow for some great shots. Some of the routes we will have to repeat in the winter when the leaves have fallen. I have considered creating a guidebook for the rest of Milton, but as of yet, I have not started anything. I might take photos of the areas this weekend and put them aside until the winter. I have however created the basic framework for a new guide for Cape Croker/Indian Ladder, and Lions Head. Unfortunately, getting aerial photos of these areas requires a significant financial investment so this has been on hold for a while. Cheers! -Joe
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chossmonkey
Oct 7, 2008, 12:06 PM
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fastkite wrote: I believe the old guidebook did a good job of describing routes without the use of any visual tools. I certainly could not have done a better job.
Not to be rude, but if you think that the current descriptions are good perhaps another person might be better for the job.
Adding pictures would help the current guide books, but I find the biggest problem with them is the shitty and or worthless route descriptions. I don't have the books with me to give you specific examples.
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armsrforclimbing
Oct 7, 2008, 2:03 PM
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Who will be translating from Canadian to French and English? 
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armsrforclimbing
Oct 7, 2008, 2:07 PM
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Also, all joking aside, GPS coordinates of the starts seem to be helpful. I know that Nemo is far from wilderness climbing, but its somewhat helpful to have when you want to know if you are within 15-30 ft of the start. Consider it while you are in the planning stages.
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a-e-jones
Oct 7, 2008, 2:32 PM
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how about a glen guidbook too :P
that is naturally if they dont close the place down
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geezergecko
Oct 7, 2008, 8:41 PM
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armsrforclimbing wrote: Also, all joking aside, GPS coordinates of the starts seem to be helpful. I know that Nemo is far from wilderness climbing, but its somewhat helpful to have when you want to know if you are within 15-30 ft of the start. Consider it while you are in the planning stages.
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armsrforclimbing
Oct 7, 2008, 9:17 PM
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The painted numbers is a little ridiculous. Have you seen this anywhere else? I am surprised the land managers allowed it originally. They must have since put a stop to it, which is a good thing.
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chossmonkey
Oct 8, 2008, 1:12 AM
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jaydenn wrote: geezergecko wrote: The ambiguous descriptions in the current guidebook have lost their charm with me. Whatever do you mean? "climb pleasant face past bolts to anchors." isn't a good description? 
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fastkite
Oct 8, 2008, 12:36 PM
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The Glen is a possibility, but I would need some help from the bouldering community. I have little experience in the area.
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a-e-jones
Oct 8, 2008, 3:58 PM
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i'm sure that wouldn't be a problem anything is better then the guides taht are available right now anyways
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fastkite
Oct 9, 2008, 2:37 AM
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I could actually make a French version of the guidebook, but to be really honest with you. The photos and icons tell the story. The route descriptions are not that important for most routes.
If I made a French version I would not make printed copies, it would just be a print-your-own PDF online.
They become more important when talking about descent gullies.
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fastkite
Oct 9, 2008, 2:58 AM
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On the topic of painted numbers.
They are not that difficult to find once you know where to look for them.
The guidebook shows aerial photos of the area with the painted numbers in the correct locations to within 3 feet. I do not believe you will need the painted numbers, but they are confirmation.
I've attached an example topo for Morphine ledge as an example. I apologize for the resolution I was limited to 150k uploads.
The topo, conveniently shows the location of High Society, which for me personally was a difficult route to find.
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Attachments:
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morphine ledge.jpg
(131 KB)
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ninjaclimb
Oct 9, 2008, 3:12 AM
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I think a new guidebook for the area is a great idea, I've always wanted to get off my ass and do it myself. The colour photo topos will be an amazing improvement. However, being a person who knows the area (I had no trouble finding any of those routes marked on the picture), I'm having difficulty recognizing any route on the picture - and I don't think its a question of picture size or quality. While the aerial photo is very nice, I would personally recommend a picture taken from a climber's angle.
I've been scribbling some info into and out of my Escarpment guidebook. Including some "newer" bolted lines that I've spotted but not yet tried. I could get back to you with this info.
Justin
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fastkite
Oct 11, 2008, 1:01 AM
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Justin,
You are correct, in most cases a ground based photo makes locating the bottom of a route easier. However, in situations where there are many trees, it is very difficult to get a photo which shows the top of the route in any meaningful way.
The second problem is it takes a lot of photos to cover all the climbs. At $0.50-$2.00 / per page I am trying to make an efficient use of space.
That said, I have included ground photos for most popular climbs, especially where the aerial shots are not as obvious.
-Joe
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a-e-jones
Oct 11, 2008, 1:38 AM
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any idea for a release date?
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fastkite
Oct 11, 2008, 10:17 AM
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The guide will be available before climbing next spring.
There are 'beta' copies of the guidebook floating around with friends and those helping on the project. Given the high cost of printing each prototype, there are not that many around.
Janet and I will be flying over Nemo this morning taking some more photos, hopefully a cover page and a usable shot of Alfred's Gully.
-Joe
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granite_grrl
Oct 11, 2008, 3:21 PM
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ninjaclimb wrote: However, being a person who knows the area (I had no trouble finding any of those routes marked on the picture), I'm having difficulty recognizing any route on the picture - and I don't think its a question of picture size or quality. While the aerial photo is very nice, I would personally recommend a picture taken from a climber's angle.
Agreed on all these points. I haven't been down to that wall in a little while, but I've climbed a bunch of the routes in the photo and the aerial shot doesn't make the recognizable. I understand the space constraints, but you'll need to add some periodic "from the ground" shots if you want to make the aerial shots usable.
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shockabuku
Oct 12, 2008, 6:24 AM
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Sorry, just an experiment.
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