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johnny_g
Nov 15, 2002, 10:27 AM
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WOLFGANG GULLICH
Who was Wolfgamg Gullich ,what are his realizations except that he was born in 1960 in Ludwigshaffen Germany ,he was the world's first who climb 9a ,the one who invented the campus board ,the one who doubled Stallone in Cliffhanger ,the who said that "the most important muscle in climbing is the brain" ,the one who made a one finger pull-up whit 50 pounds in the free hand and he died in a car accident in 1992
Who knows PLEASE POST THEM because everybody should know who was GULLICH
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davep
Nov 15, 2002, 10:43 AM
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He didn't do the first 9a, he gave Action Direct XI (UIAA) and some would argue its 8c+.
For interst he also broke his back falling from Masters Edge E7 6c. He climbed up to the gear, came down, got his mates to test it by weighting the rope, then fell off the crux and the gear ripped. Doh.
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benblake
Nov 15, 2002, 10:56 AM
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gullich is somewhat of a legend around here... (which is victoria, australia).
he came here and did the world's FIRST 31/32 (5.14 something), our famous 'Punks in the Gym'. the year was 1985...
there's dispute about the grade now, but it's still a major feat.
for that one moment, australia was at the forefront of world climbing.
-ben
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johnny_g
Nov 15, 2002, 12:16 PM
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Hi davep
Who arguied that the "Action Directe" is 8c+
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melonhead
Nov 15, 2002, 1:48 PM
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Wolfgang was the MAN! Way ahead of his time.
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clintcummins
Nov 16, 2002, 1:41 AM
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He did a series of difficult climbs which were the hardest climbs in the world at the time:
8b (5.13d) 1984 Kanal im Rucken
8b+/8c (5.14a/b) 1985 Punks in the Gym
8c (5.14b) 1987 Wallstreet
9a (5.14d) 1991 Action Directe
This last route was often attempted, but unrepeated for several years. It was not surpassed in difficulty until possibly in 1995 when Fred Rouling did Akira.
Gullich also did early repeats of many of the hardest routes during this time, often in France. If he was still alive, probably he would be repeating routes in the 9a range and letting us know if they made the grade.
In the US, he did early repeats of the Yosemite 5.12s (including a free solo of Separate Reality in 1986) and also did the second ascent of Grand Illusion 5.13b.
He attempted the second ascent of the Bachar-Yerian (5.11 R) in Toulumne with Kurt Albert, but the attempt ended when Albert took a 60 foot whipper and Gullich was slammed into the anchors, injuring his hand.
He coauthored 2 books with photographers:
"Sportklettern heute", with Andreas Kubin
"High Life: sportklettern weltweit", with Heinz Zak
The book "Wolfgang Gullich: A Life in the Vertical"
was written by Tilmann Hepp.
[ This Message was edited by: clintcummins on 2002-11-15 17:43 ]
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johnny_g
Nov 19, 2002, 8:06 AM
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Thank you very much clintcummins for your information I heared about that routes but I don't about your informations .
Thank you .
Hope to speak new things .
Soon .
johnny_g
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davep
Nov 19, 2002, 9:04 AM
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"Who arguied that the "Action Directe" is 8c+"
Well Ben Moon did for a start.
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shawkshaw
Nov 19, 2002, 9:35 AM
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another of his quotes
"sometimes i eat so much i can't breath"
thats a great line
steve
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andy_lemon
Nov 20, 2002, 4:11 PM
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Quote:the one who doubled Stallone in Cliffhanger
it was Ron Kauk that doubled Stallone in Cliffhanger.
[ This Message was edited by: andy_lemon on 2002-11-20 08:12 ]
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bluesky
Nov 20, 2002, 4:17 PM
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What I heard was that it was both Kauk and Gullich. Gullich put on some pounds to look more like 'beefy' Stallone.
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pbjosh
Nov 20, 2002, 4:21 PM
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Quote:
"Who arguied that the "Action Directe" is 8c+"
Well Ben Moon did for a start.
Considering that Ben Moon hasn't sent Action Direct that's a spectacularly lousy argument. It never ceases to amaze me when people can't send a problem and then downgrade it...
I've never heard anything about any of the repeaters (Alexander Adler, Iker Pou, Dave Graham) downgrading it. Seems like they might have a bit more of a stance to comment from.
josh
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snappy
Nov 20, 2002, 4:29 PM
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Wolgang Gullich was also Stallone's stunt double.
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andy_lemon
Nov 20, 2002, 6:38 PM
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Says here Ron Kauk and Wolfgang Gullich were both stunt doubles for Stalone in Cliffhanger...
http://us.imdb.com/Credits?0106582
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marks
Nov 24, 2002, 5:00 PM
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not if you read his book it does not.
back to the topic.he is the greatest ever.no ifs no buts, he's the daddy.one powerful m-f
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daisuke
Dec 3, 2002, 3:53 PM
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there is an article about wolfgang gullich in the october edition of Klettern magazine regarding the new 45 minute long movie about his life called "The short life of the climber Wolfgang Güllich" this article shows many pictures of him attempting his various routes around the world. his friends are quoted to say in the article that not only was he a great athlete but also a selfless person that always put others above himself.
btw, Güllich was one of stalone´s stunt doubles in cliffhanger, the article shows him and stallone shaking hands as well as him in front of the model banged up chopper used at the end.
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camhead
Dec 3, 2002, 4:06 PM
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I'm just going to give a shout out... he is certainly one of the most significant figures in sport climbing's history. Has anyone heard of his rigorous training process in preparation of Action Direct? Damn! Mono Dynos!
yeah, the man.
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okieterry
Dec 3, 2002, 4:58 PM
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I climbed with Wolfy around 1980 for a few weeks in Eldorado Springs and then in Yosemite a few years later. Wolfy knew english pretty well and was a blast to climb with. He was very bold and confident and he loved to do climbs of all grades. I had plans to go climb with him in Germany but unfortunately never got to.
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rockitjeff
Dec 31, 2002, 2:07 PM
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Let it also be said..
and...?
He was a HELL of a nice guy.
This is not always a real common trait amongst the top climbers...
...but amazingly approachable, affiable, charming, sincere.. certainly you'll read all this in the mags from others.. but .. nobody else on this thread has mentioned this part of his legacy, so I will... and did. The world is smaller for his loss..
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hiclimb
Dec 31, 2002, 2:45 PM
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Wolfgang Gulich auto biograhy is called Life In The Vertical Hard to find but excellent
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crack_head
Dec 31, 2002, 3:16 PM
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i think he free soloed some 5.12?
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salathiel
Jan 5, 2003, 3:17 AM
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I got a copy of life in the vertical last year for Christmas from some German friends of mine. The english is a little stilted but its an amazing read with inspirational photos.
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kalcario
Jan 5, 2003, 4:36 AM
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I remember him because no female was safe in his company and when he visited the Valley he got the full Rock God treatment from same, they would faint at the mere rumor of his approach
here is some trivia which is perhaps not mentioned in the book...
where was his best friend and climbing partner Kurt Albert when he heard the news of Wolfie's passing? Hint: obscure crag in central USA
[ This Message was edited by: kalcario on 2003-01-04 20:39 ]
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crux_clipper
Jan 7, 2003, 8:30 AM
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He once said....
"You don't climb then go for coffee, coffee is part of climbing"
GOLD!
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pischi
Jan 7, 2003, 10:25 AM
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One of my favourite climbing pictures is WG soloing Separate Reality, whatever grade this is...
pischi
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