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jeepnphreak
Mar 4, 2009, 2:01 AM
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Iam pretty comfortable leading 5.10 c/d on sport/face climbs. I started to climb trad about two months ago and I crap out at about 5.9. and I find cracks difficult.
What hints and tip can you offer to help me in my crack climbing technique. What is there that is so differnt between face and crack. Its more than just using my feet.
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patmay81
Mar 4, 2009, 2:07 AM
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its knowing how to jamb differently for subtly different widths of crack. In more difficult cracks, say 5.9 and up (usually narrower-but not always), it helps to look for constrictions in the crack for hand and foot placements. It takes a lot of practice, its a totally different game. Its worth the effort though.
Just remember anyone who say crack kills, has never tried it!
I do crack every chance I get.
I know what you mean though, my first trad climb I figured I'd bust out a nice easy 5.10a. hmmhmmhmm, nope. Its taken me years to finally break the 5.10 trad mark.
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machino
Mar 4, 2009, 2:10 AM
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The difference is your just using the crack. The cross over is to not only being comfortable hanging out on a jug, but also on jams. Hand jams are the proverbial belay to a honed crack climber, just as a jug is. Thus, a handcrack in generally easier. Start off here than move up and down in size. Learn all the jams and put them together.
Bottom line is climb them more and you will improve. Have you been climbing the rims?
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Wunderkind
Mar 4, 2009, 2:55 PM
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Very basic tip sorry if it is too elementary:
Put your hand in the crack, vertical, and then think about moving your thumb to touch the base of your pinky finger (even if the thumb doesn't move this will cam your hand). This is pretty basic but was a big revelation to me. Finally good jams started feeling like jugs instead of desperate holds.
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budman
Mar 4, 2009, 3:26 PM
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Spring break will soon be here. Hit the Creek and you will learn more in a few days than you ever could on a computer. The very uniform and smooth sided cracks will make you work at first but will give you technique in return. From then on you will approach all other crack climbs with a new set of skills. Cheers, see you at the Creek
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jeepnphreak
Mar 4, 2009, 5:25 PM
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Thanks for the responses, Ill get out there and keep practicing. Hope full by psring I can get past the 5.9 clean point. but well see.
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therat
Mar 4, 2009, 5:54 PM
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jeepnphreak wrote: Iam pretty comfortable leading 5.10 c/d on sport/face climbs. I started to climb trad about two months ago and I crap out at about 5.9. and I find cracks difficult. What hints and tip can you offer to help me in my crack climbing technique. What is there that is so differnt between face and crack. Its more than just using my feet.
Typical sport and face climbing techniques require you to hold on to the rock.
While crack climbing, the rock holds on to YOU...
(This post was edited by therat on Mar 4, 2009, 5:56 PM)
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ShibbyShane
Mar 5, 2009, 7:53 AM
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Alright, I have a question that also pertains to crack climbing...
I know that when I'm climbing face routes or in the gym that I won't hesitate to fully stretch out my arms to reach for a hold. But, I remember reading that with crack climbing you aren't supposed to put as much weight on your hands (this could be wrong as far as I know). So, should you not reach up as far when trying to place good handjams/fingerlocks?
I definitely need to do more crack. 
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ShibbyShane
Mar 5, 2009, 8:03 AM
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Oh also, are there any/many places you can set topropes at Indian Creek? I ask only because with the typical uniform size of the cracks there you need a LOT of one or two sizes of cams/etc, and... I don't have that big of a rack, or that much money.
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altelis
Mar 5, 2009, 1:14 PM
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do what i do and pick climbs that are primarily face climbs!
many many alpine routes are face climbs.
i learned to climb multipitch trad out east, so i clearly learned on trad face climbs.
i am certainly interested in improving my technique, but to be honest i prefer face climbing. i don't dislike crack climbing nor do i think its inherently worse- i'm holding out judgement till i can climb faces and cracks at roughly the same level.
but for now, i'm a face guy. oh, and a ass guy
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budman
Mar 5, 2009, 1:25 PM
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Sorry, no access to top rope at the Creek. Just about everything is 2 pitch but the first pitch yields the quality climbing. Go with friends and pool the cams and setup top ropes. Usually lots of climbers and you can snag a run on a climb pretty much of the time. People are usually pretty friendly that way.
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jeepnphreak
Mar 5, 2009, 6:59 PM
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altelis wrote: do what i do and pick climbs that are primarily face climbs! many many alpine routes are face climbs. i learned to climb multipitch trad out east, so i clearly learned on trad face climbs. i am certainly interested in improving my technique, but to be honest i prefer face climbing. i don't dislike crack climbing nor do i think its inherently worse- i'm holding out judgement till i can climb faces and cracks at roughly the same level. but for now, i'm a face guy. oh, and a ass guy
Iam the most experienced with face climbs, I have been a sport climber for mnay years now.
For spring break My plan is to head down to the moab area, indian creek most likley. Im just working on gettign my crack skill fine tune as possible befor I go. From what I under stand a lost of climbs are crack only to minimal face...
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shimanilami
Mar 5, 2009, 7:15 PM
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One tip that I found useful was, "Use big hands and little feet," which basically means that you should try to use only the best hand/finger jams, and to move your feet as many times as you need to in order to avoid the shitty jams. When I'm climbing hard cracks, I might make five moves with my feet for each time I move a hand.
Another tip is, "Sack up." Crack climbing is painful. If you can't tolerate a bit of suffering, then you're going to suck at it. But don't sweat it too much, eventually you'll kill all the nerves in your fingers and toes, so you'll stop feeling it so much.
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