Are you really asking us how to work your grip when you've got a day alone?

can anyone here tell me what is the best way to train grip on a sunday?

Um yeah. whats the problem with that?

since when do I need a partner to climb 3 feet in the air on the freehand wall?

godammit you guys have bad attitudes around here

I just gotta reiterate and say you guys have some really shitty attitudes on here. all the people I have met through rock climbing in person are nice and helpful but this site is just filled with douche bags.

You're telling me there is no way I can train on sunday? That I should sit at home or go out to a bar instead?

And if the answer is no, then explain.

Stop making this so easy.

Fine you want a real answer to your question. here you go.

Yes, if you don't have a partner go and boulder. It will help your strength and hopefully get you up those "super hard" 5.8s.


Now chill out and don't make such a big deal when people give you shit on the interenet. It happens.... a lot.

I can take a joke man. But you know how annoying and petty that is for someone who knows a lot to fuck with someone who knows nothing? There is a difference to me laughing at his gay hat and his clown pants compared to his bullshit. Whatever. Thanks guy

Fine you want a real answer to your question. here you go.

Yes, if you don't have a partner go and boulder. It will help your strength and hopefully get you up those "super hard" 5.8s.


Now chill out and don't make such a big deal when people give you shit on the interenet. It happens.... a lot.

stop being a wise ass. be a fucking man, and answer my question

I bought that hat when I was 17, lifeguarding at the lake. I remember the day I bought it, I saw it in the mall and thought it would be great to keep the sun off but didn't really like the $20 price tag. Over the years, it paid for itself many times over.

It's been down the Thunder River trail on the Grand Canyon twice, once when I was 18, another when I was 29. It's been up Big Rock Candy Mountain, most of the routes in Vedauwoo and the South Platte. It's been up about anything in Yosemite that I didn't wear a helmet on. Most importantly, it's been up many Indian Creek routes in blazing sun. It effectively extended my creek season. Such a simple thing.

It's protected me from the rain and the sun. It had a Pearl Izumi and Powerbar patch I sewed onto it. It had a little burn where I was messing around with a magnifying glass.

It disappeared this fall. Maybe at the Devils Head, maybe at the Red Slab, maybe in Lindsey's car. I don't know. I just know it will be missed. I replaced it with a similar hat from REI not long ago. Instead of heavy cotton canvas, it's waterproof, breathable, packable, and sun resistant nylon. It's got some great vents and a stiffer brim. All at probably 1/6 the weight. In every way it's better. Every time I wear it, I miss my hat and hope by some stroke of luck that I reunite with it someday.

[image]http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p316/angrywetsuit/DSC01896e.jpg[/image]

Im sorry i could not post an answer sooner Tactix. You have to understand that the range of people on this site is wide and varied. A good deal of the members spend a lot of time at home (Not climbing) and answering questions like these with "Jokes" like the ones already posted. Dont pay attention to them, in general the long term low post members are the good, nice members.

On to your question.

Your gym is quite obviously rating things very low and incorectly, i would suggest you get a friend to take you on a day of face climbing in the 5.7/5.8/5.9 range and then you will know what a true 5.7 feels like. To me, still a teen and I have been climbing Trad for 1 year, gym for 3 and a 5.7 is easily done without shoes (Bare feet) and smooth, slow movements. You should be able to no-hands rest. I know personaly that most easy 5.7's i, and my climbing partner are able to walk up no hands or "Campus" without feet. 5.7 is a very easy grade, you should by no means be struggling.

To work on your grip on an off day there are many things to do. Because you are relatively new to the sport i would suggest staying away from things like campus boards, hang boards, rigorous sets of pull-ups and any other exercise that may permanently damage your tendons or just put you out for a few weeks.
I would rather tell you to boulder at your home gym without a spotter, bring along a bag of chalk and your shoes. Spend the day working on lots of V0 routes. Just get your hours in at V0's and after your break for lunch or a snack try working at your redpoint area. (Go for stuff that you will fall 3 or 4 times on but will finish at the end. You want to finish it and get the satisfaction) Traverses are good and I always try and use as chunky of holds as i can, use your legs. If you are training on the other hand keep your but low, arms/elbows locked out and straight to use mainly your fingers and grip.

Go outside, play around at the bouldering areas. Invest in a mat if you have the cash or shoot for really easy stuff and put in a LOT of climbs. When your this early on in the sport you really only need milage. After 2 months of solid 3 days a week of full-on climbing, 1 training day you should start worrying about more technique training and some more advance techniques as mentioned earlier.

If you start feeling the burn in your tendons or in your wrist have a staff member tape them or show you how to lower the risk of injuring a tendon. Tendons are not like muscles in that they do not get stronger as they are used and as they wear. Taping your fingers and wrists on a training day is a good idea if they start to hurt. Ask a staff member how, get their opinion if you need it or not and then get yourself a roll to do it yourself later.

Give me a PM or email me if you have any other questions. Remember, no matter what the crowd when you have this many members a good number of them will be rotten. A bigger batch of tomatoes will have more rotten ones, no matter what the brand.