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stikEfingerz


Jun 22, 2009, 10:49 PM
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giving out! what to do?
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Just started climbing indoors. I'm on 5.11s and love the bouldering stuff.i wish i could climb everyday but my forearms and fingers are giving out on me too early in my climbs. my muscles need to recover faster!


fxgranite


Jun 22, 2009, 11:02 PM
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Welcome to life. At this rate I expect you to post a tendon issue inside two monthsWink

I got a dollar on the under. Anyone?


onceahardman


Jun 22, 2009, 11:08 PM
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fxgranite wrote:
Welcome to life. At this rate I expect you to post a tendon issue inside two monthsWink

I got a dollar on the under. Anyone?

If you're booking the bets, I'll take twenty on the under.


stikEfingerz


Jun 23, 2009, 12:25 AM
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sweet, thanks for the encouragement. there will be no tendon issue, promise. someone will lose there money!


shoo


Jun 23, 2009, 12:32 AM
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stikEfingerz wrote:
sweet, thanks for the encouragement. there will be no tendon issue, promise. someone will lose there money!

Quoted for future amusement.


coolcat83


Jun 23, 2009, 1:08 AM
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stikEfingerz wrote:
Just started climbing indoors. I'm on 5.11s and love the bouldering stuff.i wish i could climb everyday but my forearms and fingers are giving out on me too early in my climbs. my muscles need to recover faster!

try some endurance training on easy stuff and slowly build up with the occasional hard climb. Otherwise it's all too easy to put it too fast and get a overuse injury


bill413


Jun 23, 2009, 1:08 AM
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fxgranite wrote:
Welcome to life. At this rate I expect you to post a tendon issue inside two monthsWink

I got a dollar on the under. Anyone?
10 on three months. He's got to get his strength/endurance up to the point he can really overtax them.


bill413


Jun 23, 2009, 1:09 AM
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stikEfingerz wrote:
Just started climbing indoors. I'm on 5.11s and love the bouldering stuff.i wish i could climb everyday but my forearms and fingers are giving out on me too early in my climbs. my muscles need to recover faster!
Climb - don't forget to do easy stuff. And, recovery days are important.


Partner angry


Jun 23, 2009, 1:14 AM
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onceahardman wrote:
fxgranite wrote:
Welcome to life. At this rate I expect you to post a tendon issue inside two monthsWink

I got a dollar on the under. Anyone?

If you're booking the bets, I'll take twenty on the under.

But he's only 14 (based on his spelling) so he might make it longer.


rockandlice


Jun 23, 2009, 1:58 AM
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angry wrote:
onceahardman wrote:
fxgranite wrote:
Welcome to life. At this rate I expect you to post a tendon issue inside two monthsWink

I got a dollar on the under. Anyone?

If you're booking the bets, I'll take twenty on the under.

But he's only 14 (based on his spelling) so he might make it longer.

Damn good point.


rainman0915


Jun 23, 2009, 4:03 AM
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remember to WARM UP, i got my worst injury ever because the gym was crowded so i skipped right to my projectPirate


marc801


Jun 23, 2009, 4:19 AM
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stikEfingerz wrote:
Just started climbing indoors. I'm on 5.11s and love the bouldering stuff.i wish i could climb everyday but my forearms and fingers are giving out on me too early in my climbs. my muscles need to recover faster!
Your muscles can get to 5.12 or beyond in 4-6 months - you tendons and ligaments will take 18, assuming you don't rupture them first.


stikEfingerz


Jun 23, 2009, 3:38 PM
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yeah, i figured a a good warm-up would consist of some traverse climbing pretty shallow. anything else be good for warm-up?


gogounou


Jun 23, 2009, 3:43 PM
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marc801 wrote:
stikEfingerz wrote:
Just started climbing indoors. I'm on 5.11s and love the bouldering stuff.i wish i could climb everyday but my forearms and fingers are giving out on me too early in my climbs. my muscles need to recover faster!
Your muscles can get to 5.12 or beyond in 4-6 months - you tendons and ligaments will take 18, assuming you don't rupture them first.

Iz troo. This is correct for every climber, bar none. Crazy

[aside]And two months is really the over/under? Gimme 20 on the over, I'm feeling generous.[/aside]

To the OP, though: Patience. Your endurance will come around. In the meantime climb thoughtfully, focus on your technique, practice quiet footwork - you'll thank yourself later for establishing good habits now.

J


WordsVerbatim


Jun 23, 2009, 7:35 PM
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stikEfingerz wrote:
Just started climbing indoors. I'm on 5.11s and love the bouldering stuff.i wish i could climb everyday but my forearms and fingers are giving out on me too early in my climbs. my muscles need to recover faster!

I'm going to agree with everyone else on this --- You're going to need to rest. The last time I climbed five days in a row (for 4 hours each day), I was out for a week after because my tendons were so sore. Horrible idea. You need to let your tendons heal. I have a friend (who is quite an experienced climber) who has really screwed himself over because he has the mentality that you should "climb until you can't climb anymore." He was out for 3 months because his tendons where completely f-cked due to weeks of hard climbing.

If you're going to climb daily, at least climb easy sometimes? I used to have a bad habit of climbing too hard way too often, and I always regretted it. Now I have at least 1 rest day between climbing days.


(This post was edited by WordsVerbatim on Jun 23, 2009, 7:36 PM)


stikEfingerz


Jun 24, 2009, 12:57 AM
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Alabama eh? I was born in Birmingham! but lived there for only a few months until my dad was given new orders.


rainman0915


Jun 24, 2009, 1:58 AM
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just like 15 min of stretching (this not only prevents injury, but i find i climb harder when im well stretched) and then like 15 or 20 min of really easy stuff getting harder.


Partner angry


Jun 24, 2009, 2:06 AM
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rainman0915 wrote:
just like 15 min of stretching (this not only prevents injury, but i find i climb harder when im well stretched) and then like 15 or 20 min of really easy stuff getting harder.

Aerili to thread!!!!


WordsVerbatim


Jun 24, 2009, 4:27 AM
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stikEfingerz wrote:
Alabama eh? I was born in Birmingham! but lived there for only a few months until my dad was given new orders.

Yep, yep! I actually go to school in Birmingham so I guess I can say I live there most of the time. (Except this summer... >.<) My hometown is in the southern part of Alabama. Smile Birmingham is a fantastic city. It's wonderful climbing-wise, with Moss Rock boulder preserve 15 minutes away from campus and a few other climbing areas only 1.5 or 2 hours away.


(This post was edited by WordsVerbatim on Jun 24, 2009, 4:31 AM)


tyler


Jun 24, 2009, 5:50 AM
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fxgranite wrote:
Welcome to life. At this rate I expect you to post a tendon issue inside two monthsWink

I got a dollar on the under. Anyone?

LMAO! Well-said!


tyler


Jun 24, 2009, 5:58 AM
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stikEfingerz


Jun 24, 2009, 10:15 AM
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I'm at school in Eastern North Carolina. Since i'm new to the whole rock climbing venture, i haven't looked into any climbing options. BUT! i will be doing that when i get back. headed to the outer banks for vacation now! sounds like you know the landscape, haha.


WordsVerbatim


Jun 24, 2009, 3:32 PM
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stikEfingerz wrote:
I'm at school in Eastern North Carolina. Since i'm new to the whole rock climbing venture, i haven't looked into any climbing options. BUT! i will be doing that when i get back. headed to the outer banks for vacation now! sounds like you know the landscape, haha.

That sounds awesome! Smile Yeah, I kind of ranted up there. Haha. Friends that I met through my school's climbing wall go climbing on weekends so I'd usually just go along. Outdoor climbing is a different animal, and it was pretty difficult for me to get the hang of it (mainly bouldering -- TR was okay). Have fun! Wink


marc801


Jun 24, 2009, 4:36 PM
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tyler wrote:
marc801 wrote:
stikEfingerz wrote:
Just started climbing indoors. I'm on 5.11s and love the bouldering stuff.i wish i could climb everyday but my forearms and fingers are giving out on me too early in my climbs. my muscles need to recover faster!
Your muscles can get to 5.12 or beyond in 4-6 months - you tendons and ligaments will take 18, assuming you don't rupture them first.

Jesus! At that rate I should be climbing like 5.17R by now!
It's best to remember that the time is exponentially proportional to the grade and, except for relatively few gifted athletes, the improvement curve rather drastically flattens at some point for most people! Add in the component of age for us folks on the north side of 40 or 50, and depressingly, the improvement curve goes retrograde.Frown


swoopee


Jun 25, 2009, 12:51 AM
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marc801 wrote:
tyler wrote:
marc801 wrote:
stikEfingerz wrote:
Just started climbing indoors. I'm on 5.11s and love the bouldering stuff.i wish i could climb everyday but my forearms and fingers are giving out on me too early in my climbs. my muscles need to recover faster!
Your muscles can get to 5.12 or beyond in 4-6 months - you tendons and ligaments will take 18, assuming you don't rupture them first.

Jesus! At that rate I should be climbing like 5.17R by now!
It's best to remember that the time is exponentially proportional to the grade and, except for relatively few gifted athletes, the improvement curve rather drastically flattens at some point for most people! Add in the component of age for us folks on the north side of 40 or 50, and depressingly, the improvement curve goes retrograde.Frown

Yeah, and that first heart-attack doesn't really help.Frown

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