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asheink
Jul 12, 2009, 8:46 PM
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Hello,
My friends and I are from Victoria, BC (Canada). We are planning a 2 weeks climbing trip to Leavenworth.
I was wondering if people know if there will be enough climbs there to keep us busy for that long (2 weeks).
Thanks
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malcolm777b
Jul 12, 2009, 8:59 PM
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asheink wrote: Hello, My friends and I are from Victoria, BC (Canada). We are planning a 2 weeks climbing trip to Leavenworth. I was wondering if people know if there will be enough climbs there to keep us busy for that long (2 weeks). Thanks
There's tons of climbing in that area to keep you busy. Outer Space should be open (after a long falcon closure). If you want some alpine climbing, the Enchantments are right there. For bold slab climbing, Peshastin Pinnacles are just past L-worth. And if you get bored, there's always Index right over the pass.
What ratings are you looking to climb. I can give some recommendations of not-to-miss climbs based on that.
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asheink
Jul 12, 2009, 9:13 PM
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We are looking at doing Top rope and sport climbs between 5.8 and 5.11.
Any road closure I should know?
Recommended camp site?
Thanks for your help!
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irregularpanda
Jul 12, 2009, 9:55 PM
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asheink wrote: We are looking at doing Top rope and sport climbs between 5.8 and 5.11. Any road closure I should know? Recommended camp site? Thanks for your help!
Show up. Buy the book at the local store. Camp in icicle canyon, @ a campground called 8-mile. Read the book, it kinda sucks and I wanna burn that book, but it's the best game in town.
Some recommendations: bring a friend with a trad rack, this opens things up a bunch.
Classic crack : 5.8
Anything on the pearly gates wall is amazing, and in the shade till 1:30.
Also ask the guide shop for recommendations, road closure issues.
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codhands
Jul 12, 2009, 10:18 PM
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When are you coming? PM me and I will hook you up.
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skroobal
Jul 12, 2009, 10:26 PM
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irregularpanda wrote: asheink wrote: We are looking at doing Top rope and sport climbs between 5.8 and 5.11. Any road closure I should know? Recommended camp site? Thanks for your help! Show up. Buy the book at the local store. Camp in icicle canyon, @ a campground called 8-mile. Read the book, it kinda sucks and I wanna burn that book, but it's the best game in town. Some recommendations: bring a friend with a trad rack, this opens things up a bunch. Classic crack : 5.8 Anything on the pearly gates wall is amazing, and in the shade till 1:30. Also ask the guide shop for recommendations, road closure issues.
He's right about the trad rack bit. Sport climbing in L-worth pales in comparison to the quality cracks in the area. The enchantments - if I'm not mistaken- require a hard to get backcountry permit, which can hamoper your program. If you want two weeks worth of sport climbs, you might be required to travel. Frenchman's Coulee, offers hundreds of sport routes that fall in your grade range. It's a little warm in the gorge rigfht now, but if you plan it right, you can stay in the shade at different walls throughout the day (plus free camping) Tieton River has a bunch of sport climbs, as well as 6-8 pitch sport/trad routes on the goose egg wall. Lots of sport climbs at Mt. Erie has a bunch of unpopulated routes that kick some ass.
Basically, here's what I would suggest for a two week loop through WA:
3-4 Days at Mt Erie ( many sport climbs, lots of multipitch., not many people) Guidebook at grocery store at the bottom
3-4 Days at Leavenworth (great granite, great scenery, close to town. - if you're a ninja, free camping here too)
3-4 Days at Frenchman's coulee ( awesome basalt columns, sport, long routes, free camping- you can beat the late afternoon heat and go dip in the river 2 miles down the road)
3-4 Days at Tieton River (basically the same rock as Frenchman's, but MUCH cooler. Goose Egg wall offers a more adventurous challenge, routes from .8- .11 I think.)
All of these places are within 1-2 hours of each other, which is nice. guides can be found on amazon, except for Erie, which is ONLY available at the Mt. Erie Grocery
Hope this helps you out.
Skroobal
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irregularpanda
Jul 12, 2009, 10:29 PM
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skroobal wrote: - if you're a ninja, free camping here too
ssshhhhhh
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asheink
Jul 12, 2009, 10:58 PM
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Coming in a week (20-31 July)
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codhands
Jul 12, 2009, 11:12 PM
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asheink wrote: Coming in a week (20-31 July)
Send me a PM and I will give you some contact info. How many in your party?
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malcolm777b
Jul 12, 2009, 11:21 PM
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asheink wrote: We are looking at doing Top rope and sport climbs between 5.8 and 5.11. Any road closure I should know? Recommended camp site? Thanks for your help!
When is this trip planned? The heat could be pretty high in the summer. Since you want sport climbs though, you might be better off looking to go to Smith Rocks in Oregon. It's about 3 and a half hours farther South, and the heat can be bad too, but it's a world class sport climbing destination and you won't be disappointed.
GREAT sport routes in L-worth for you (consensus recommendations, I haven't been on these):
The Javelin: 5.10a
Cryptogram: 5.10a
Rock n' Rattle: 5.11c
Condorphamine Addiction: 5.10b 7pitch ALL BOLTS!!!
2 weeks in L-worth though without being a trad climber probably won't be the vacation you're looking for. If you like to boulder though, you are going to have a blast.
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bigo
Jul 13, 2009, 1:40 AM
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I would stop by Index and Nason Ridge. Both are West of Leavy on Highway 2 and have better (IMO) sport climbing than in Leavenworth. Index is mostly 5.11 and up for all bolted.
There is a post somewhere on http://cascadeclimbers.com with beta for Nason Ridge.
The best sport climbing I've done in Leavenworth is at Rattlesnake Rock and the Drip wall.
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