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simonbrown
Sep 9, 2009, 10:52 AM
Post #51 of 63
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jt512 wrote: simonbrown wrote: USnavy tell me very clear how to do it. Thanks Majid. I'm hoping that this is a exquisitely elaborate troll. Jay
Thanks Jay.
I will and i must do it.
Specilly in the route 2.
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simonbrown
Sep 9, 2009, 11:13 AM
Post #52 of 63
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USnavy wrote: majid_sabet wrote: simonbrown wrote: majid_sabet wrote: what is the point of bolting a 10 feet high rock when most bouldering rate can climb it with a silly pad below them ? I don't think so. First this route is 7 meters high not 10feet. I know some boulder problem is even 15 meters high. But you know climbing is not popular in China and so many rookie don't have enough experience to jump from so high position especially for girls. It's not every Chinese can KongFu. If not bolted, they will not climb maybe. I am not sure the quarry. I set more and more bolts in the wall. If some climber think it's too many bolts, I think you can use some of them. It's your choose. Thanks. Welcome to China. An amazing place. I see a bolt right next to a crack. is that right ? or may be my eyes are going bad Yes, thank you for joining us. I brought that up 20 posts ago.
I think it's not related to join or not join.
I need technical advice only. I said only! I don't anything else! My english is not enough to understand tone and slang.
I typing 100 words use 1 hour, you use 1 mintue. Or you typing Chinese?
If you want learn Chinese Kongfu or Pingpong, i can tell you how to train. But i will not say something like you looks...... your movement looks so....... You know my meaning.
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simonbrown
Sep 9, 2009, 11:18 AM
Post #53 of 63
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majid_sabet wrote: simonbrown wrote: majid_sabet wrote: simonbrown wrote: majid_sabet wrote: simonbrown wrote: majid_sabet wrote: what is the point of bolting a 10 feet high rock when most bouldering rate can climb it with a silly pad below them ? I don't think so. First this route is 7 meters high not 10feet. I know some boulder problem is even 15 meters high. But you know climbing is not popular in China and so many rookie don't have enough experience to jump from so high position especially for girls. It's not every Chinese can KongFu. If not bolted, they will not climb maybe. I am not sure the quarry. I set more and more bolts in the wall. If some climber think it's too many bolts, I think you can use some of them. It's your choose. Thanks. Welcome to China. An amazing place. I see a bolt right next to a crack. is that right ? or may be my eyes are going bad I post a photo here. Which one? Thank you very much sir. What is this dude anchored to and what is that crack next to his bolt ? http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ent;postatt_id=4017; is that a crack or what ? http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ent;postatt_id=4015;Oh man, We are not discussing the same route. The second route is above 10meter high. It's not finished. It's made for a movie. I will clean it and rebuild it before open this route. USnavy tell me very clear how to do it. I will post photoes again after i rebuild this route. Thanks Majid. do not listen to USNAVY, he will get you killed. he knows nothing about bolting. in fact, he was just here few post ago asking people how to bolt himself.
Is it a joke? Sounds like. God bless me.
I only know some climbing English.
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simonbrown
Sep 9, 2009, 11:20 AM
Post #54 of 63
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arrow wrote: USnavy wrote: simonbrown wrote: hi, i am troubling in it. This zone donot have the pure nature crag. But there are about 30 quarries. And these quarries were abandened at 10 years ago and all are grinite rock. I try to making two new routes at last two week. Here is some photoes. The difficult are marked at 5.12a and 5.10c. Should i make new routes or stop it and closed the route? Help me plz. Thanks all What type of rock are you bolting and how hard is it? Once again I would like to reinitiate that the bolts you are using are ONLY for hard rock and they can fail under bodyweight alone in soft rock. USnavy, please don't reinitiate anymore bullshit like this. Why do you think these bolts would fail under bodyweight alone? And why do you think shear strength would fluctuate between soft or hard rock?
Every bolt, I try falling myself.
Thanks.
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simonbrown
Sep 9, 2009, 11:23 AM
Post #55 of 63
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USnavy wrote: arrow wrote: USnavy wrote: simonbrown wrote: hi, i am troubling in it. This zone don’t have the pure nature crag. But there are about 30 quarries. And these quarries were abandoned at 10 years ago and all are granite rock. I try to making two new routes at last two week. Here is some photos. The difficult are marked at 5.12a and 5.10c. Should i make new routes or stop it and closed the route? Help me plz. Thanks all What type of rock are you bolting and how hard is it? Once again I would like to reinitiate that the bolts you are using are ONLY for hard rock and they can fail under bodyweight alone in soft rock. And why do you think shear strength would fluctuate between soft or hard rock? ummm... of course the pull out strength of a bolt will be lower in soft (weak) rock. That’s common knowledge... Look at the strength values chart of any expansion bolt on the market. They give values for low compressive strength (soft), medium compressive strength (medium) and high compressive strength (hard) concrete. The strength values for soft rock is ALWAYS [much] lower than the strength values for hard rock except in cases where a very long bolt is being used. As far as the bolt pulling on body weight in soft rock: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gzuhyi76UqE http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQt4AbQmJjE The bolts in those videos are very similar to what the OP is using.
I cann't see youtube in China.
Seems you know China a little.
Tell me the video title, so i can searching them.
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angry
Sep 9, 2009, 11:26 AM
Post #56 of 63
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Posts: 8405
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simonbrown wrote: majid_sabet wrote: simonbrown wrote: majid_sabet wrote: simonbrown wrote: majid_sabet wrote: simonbrown wrote: majid_sabet wrote: what is the point of bolting a 10 feet high rock when most bouldering rate can climb it with a silly pad below them ? I don't think so. First this route is 7 meters high not 10feet. I know some boulder problem is even 15 meters high. But you know climbing is not popular in China and so many rookie don't have enough experience to jump from so high position especially for girls. It's not every Chinese can KongFu. If not bolted, they will not climb maybe. I am not sure the quarry. I set more and more bolts in the wall. If some climber think it's too many bolts, I think you can use some of them. It's your choose. Thanks. Welcome to China. An amazing place. I see a bolt right next to a crack. is that right ? or may be my eyes are going bad I post a photo here. Which one? Thank you very much sir. What is this dude anchored to and what is that crack next to his bolt ? http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ent;postatt_id=4017; is that a crack or what ? http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ent;postatt_id=4015;Oh man, We are not discussing the same route. The second route is above 10meter high. It's not finished. It's made for a movie. I will clean it and rebuild it before open this route. USnavy tell me very clear how to do it. I will post photoes again after i rebuild this route. Thanks Majid. do not listen to USNAVY, he will get you killed. he knows nothing about bolting. in fact, he was just here few post ago asking people how to bolt himself. Is it a joke? Sounds like. God bless me. I only know some climbing English.
It's no joke. USnavy is a beginner climber, has just started bolting, and is constantly asking this forum questions of how it should be done. He is not someone to get advice from.
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simonbrown
Sep 9, 2009, 11:32 AM
Post #57 of 63
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bergbryce wrote: Yes, and he stated in his first or second post that the rock was granite. There are lots of old quarries with sport routes in them. Seems like a decent use of an otherwise nearly useless area.
This rock zone is very big. I post another photoes here. This photo show 1/100 of total.
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simonbrown
Sep 9, 2009, 11:41 AM
Post #58 of 63
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baijiu wrote: Simon, keep up the good work! Anybody that is helping to develop climbing within China deserves praise. A few concerns though... As you climb and route set more, you will develop an eye for finding great lines. The traverse at the top is not the best idea. I have seen too many accidents/injuries with this same scenario. although this is sport climbing and relatively safe, most people and great lines generally go up and not across. Most people like to feel secure and safe on the rock so an extra bolt here and there is no biggie. You just don't need one every .75 meter. And as a Chinese climber i think you probably enjoy flying through the air time and time again. anyway, the crags i have seen in yangshuo are very safe in my opinion. Laowei's feel they are over bolted but then again it is a safety issue. I have just bolted 10 routes here and most of the time the bolts are roughly 1.5 to 2.0 meters apart, some more some less depending on the fall. use good judgment. I believe a good trad line should stay a trad line, however you are in a quarry. Even if the rock seems solid, don't trust it. (yes, even granite) I find no ethical reason to say 'no bolting in quarries' cause truly they have been disturbed already by far greater forces than any drill and wrench could provide. Bolt the quarries with dignity and know you are increasing the outdoor value of such a denuded place. But please use good judgement and do not bolt near cracks, flakes, or any other hazard except when there is no other option. The largest issue i see here is the access. Make sure you know who is leasing the land and they are aware of your activities. In Yangshuo, we've had too many controversies over ownership/access/money to not pay future heed to these issues. Climbing will become more popular in China, however it will always be controlled by the government. Take the neccessary steps now so your project does not get cancelled. We have found the government supports climbing development; they just want to know what is happening. Finally, i invite you to make the journey down south and let's go bolt some routes together on some sick limestone. Peace.
Thanks.
You invite me.
But i don't know where you are and who you are.
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simonbrown
Sep 9, 2009, 11:48 AM
Post #59 of 63
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angry wrote: simonbrown wrote: majid_sabet wrote: simonbrown wrote: majid_sabet wrote: simonbrown wrote: do not listen to USNAVY, he will get you killed. he knows nothing about bolting. in fact, he was just here few post ago asking people how to bolt himself. Is it a joke? Sounds like. God bless me. I only know some climbing English. It's no joke. USnavy is a beginner climber, has just started bolting, and is constantly asking this forum questions of how it should be done. He is not someone to get advice from. Thank you very much. But i think Navy is a warm heart man. And he bolted a lot within short time.
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granite_grrl
Sep 9, 2009, 12:02 PM
Post #60 of 63
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simonbrown wrote: angry wrote: simonbrown wrote: majid_sabet wrote: do not listen to USNAVY, he will get you killed. he knows nothing about bolting. in fact, he was just here few post ago asking people how to bolt himself. Is it a joke? Sounds like. God bless me. I only know some climbing English. It's no joke. USnavy is a beginner climber, has just started bolting, and is constantly asking this forum questions of how it should be done. He is not someone to get advice from. Thank you very much. But i think Navy is a warm heart man. And he bolted a lot within short time.
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mojomonkey
Sep 9, 2009, 12:46 PM
Post #61 of 63
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rockandlice wrote: climbingtrash wrote: USnavy wrote: jt512 wrote: USnavy wrote: There is no nice way to put this so I am going to be frank. You don’t know what you are doing. The first thing that tipped me off was the fact you were bolting in climbing shoes. You're a fucking idiot. Jay Edit: GUd (and with my own photo!) Are you serious...? It’s completely beyond me as to how you could be so dumb as to think I was being serious in that part of the post... I have rap bolted numerous routes in climbing shoes as have others I know. I thought it was clear as day that I was kidding. Apparently not to some... Clearly, what shoes someone is wearing is irrelevant to their bolting experience. Clearly, I was being extremely sarcastic as I was in other parts of my post… Judging by the response got, your sarcasm was hardly clear...but practice makes perfect. He could also use a little practice back pedaling. 
No, I can tell he is an experienced back pedaler. Just look at his shoes.
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joeforte
Sep 9, 2009, 12:55 PM
Post #62 of 63
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Simon, USnavy is a beginner, just like youself. He has learned a lot from reading this website, but he still does not have much experience besides his own bolting attempts.
In my opinion, your routes look good. Like others have said, get rid of that traverse at the top of that route, and keep your bolts away from cracks, flakes, and other weaknesses. Granite is very strong rock, and relatively safe to bolt as long as you hear that "ding" sound you described. Make sure to test the rock surrounding the bolt as well.
It looks like you have a fun little crag, so make sure you contact the owner and make a good example of this area, so that rock climbing can become more accepted in your locality!
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simonbrown
Sep 9, 2009, 12:56 PM
Post #63 of 63
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mojomonkey wrote: rockandlice wrote: climbingtrash wrote: USnavy wrote: jt512 wrote: USnavy wrote: There is no nice way to put this so I am going to be frank. You don’t know what you are doing. The first thing that tipped me off was the fact you were bolting in climbing shoes. You're a fucking idiot. Jay Edit: GUd (and with my own photo!) Are you serious...? It’s completely beyond me as to how you could be so dumb as to think I was being serious in that part of the post... I have rap bolted numerous routes in climbing shoes as have others I know. I thought it was clear as day that I was kidding. Apparently not to some... Clearly, what shoes someone is wearing is irrelevant to their bolting experience. Clearly, I was being extremely sarcastic as I was in other parts of my post… Judging by the response got, your sarcasm was hardly clear...but practice makes perfect. He could also use a little practice back pedaling. No, I can tell he is an experienced back pedaler. Just look at his shoes.
I think granite is not hard to differntiate, specially in such column.
And I think my sense is not too bad.
I can pick up what i need indeed.
Many friend kindly and show me some important issue.
Thanks all my friends!
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