hi, i am troubling in it.
This zone donot have the pure nature crag. But there are about 30 quarries. And these quarries were abandened at 10 years ago and all are grinite rock.

I try to making two new routes at last two week.
Here is some photoes. The difficult are marked at 5.12a and 5.10c.

Should i make new routes or stop it and closed the route? Help me plz.

Thanks all

That bolt behind your leg looks horribly placed. Looks like it would flip you upside down in an instant.

That one has cracks so people might question it, but I'm not one of those people. How's the rock quality? It looks like it may not be all that great. As for bolt spacing, they are pretty tight, but again, I'm not the sort to heckle you too hard for that.

There is no nice way to put this so I am going to be frank. You don’t know what you are doing.
The first thing that tipped me off was the fact you were bolting in climbing shoes.

what is the point of bolting a 10 feet high rock when most bouldering rate can climb it with a silly pad below them ?

what is the point of bolting a 10 feet high rock when most bouldering rate can climb it with a silly pad below them ?

There is no nice way to put this so I am going to be frank. You don’t know what you are doing.
The first thing that tipped me off was the fact you were bolting in climbing shoes.

You are retarded.

I suppose this guy doesn't know what he is doing either?



FYI, he has probably put up more routes than you have climbed.

I don't think so.
First this route is 7 meters high not 10feet.
I know some boulder problem is even 15 meters high. But you know climbing is not popular in China and so many rookie don't have enough experience to jump from so high position especially for girls. It's not every Chinese can KongFu. If not bolted, they will not climb maybe.

I am not sure the quarry. I set more and more bolts in the wall. If some climber think it's too many bolts, I think you can use some of them. It's your choose.

Thanks. Welcome to China. An amazing place.

Simon, 你的中文名字是什麽？ 我懷疑你不是中國人。
吾問：君不亦troll乎？
What province is the route in?
It's overbolted no matter where it is.

In a good year, that guy has put up more routes than exist in USNavy's whole state.

Jay

There is no nice way to put this so I am going to be frank. You don’t know what you are doing.

Ok, I'm new to trad and I don't even know who that is in the picture, but I'm going to ask the first dumb noob question that came to mind, because I'm missing something:

Why is he bolting this route when the crack looks like it's so easy to protect?

You're a fucking idiot.

Jay

Edit: GUd (and with my own photo!)

Can i use the long runner? And the turn of the rock is not sharp.
You know the route is not long.And if i set the top at right side, the route difficlut will down. Below the bolt#4, the difficluty of every move is average about 5.12a. If the route direction is right, it's easy more. And the right side is a hillside. So i set this traversing.

First route is not long. The rope is enough. When i leading climbed to the top, when do the sencond times figure eight to my harness, i can drop long enough rope to land, and the belayer can make this segment rope sense enough to control the swing when i got the first quickdraw. If i didn't do this, the swing happened in a flat plane. I dont think it's dangerous.

About the "The second to last bolt in your first set of pictures is also not well placed.
With the draw you have clipped in the pic, the bottom biner is resting a few inches inwards of a ledge.
This means if a climber falls the rope will run 90 degrees over the ledge, 90 degrees upwards then 180 degrees back downwards.
This will create for a harder catch, more drag, and it will annihilate your rope since it will be forcing the rope to run over the ledge at such a serious angle. "
I post move pics here.

And finally, what about the quarry rock zon?

Are you serious...? It’s completely beyond me as to how you could be so dumb as to think I was being serious in that part of the post... I have rap bolted numerous routes in climbing shoes as have others I know. I thought it was clear as day that I was kidding. Apparently not to some... Clearly, what shoes someone is wearing is irrelevant to their bolting experience. Clearly, I was being extremely sarcastic as I was in other parts of my post…

Judging by the response got, your sarcasm was hardly clear...but practice makes perfect.

Ok, I'm new to trad and I don't even know who that is in the picture, but I'm going to ask the first dumb noob question that came to mind, because I'm missing something:

Why is he bolting this route when the crack looks like it's so easy to protect?

He could also use a little practice back pedaling.

From what I recall, the column of rock that makes up the left side of the crack is hollow. A cam could easily dislodge it, and not many people know the value of a hex to carry them anymore. Hell, maybe even a hex would dislodge it, but by bolting the rock to the right, you would still be safe if it the column collapsed... as long as your belayer isn't crushed!

I don't think so.
First this route is 7 meters high not 10feet.
I know some boulder problem is even 15 meters high. But you know climbing is not popular in China and so many rookie don't have enough experience to jump from so high position especially for girls. It's not every Chinese can KongFu. If not bolted, they will not climb maybe.

I am not sure the quarry. I set more and more bolts in the wall. If some climber think it's too many bolts, I think you can use some of them. It's your choose.

Thanks. Welcome to China. An amazing place.

I see a bolt right next to a crack. is that right ?

or may be my eyes are going bad

I post a photo here.
Which one?
Thank you very much sir.

What is this dude anchored to and what is that crack next to his bolt ?
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ent;postatt_id=4017;

is that a crack or what ?

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ent;postatt_id=4015;

USnavy tell me very clear how to do it.

Thanks Majid.

I see a bolt right next to a crack. is that right ?

or may be my eyes are going bad

hi, i am troubling in it.
This zone donot have the pure nature crag. But there are about 30 quarries. And these quarries were abandened at 10 years ago and all are grinite rock.

I try to making two new routes at last two week.
Here is some photoes. The difficult are marked at 5.12a and 5.10c.

Should i make new routes or stop it and closed the route? Help me plz.

Thanks all

I'm hoping that this is a exquisitely elaborate troll.

Jay

Oh man, We are not discussing the same route.
The second route is above 10meter high. It's not finished. It's made for a movie. I will clean it and rebuild it before open this route.
USnavy tell me very clear how to do it.

I will post photoes again after i rebuild this route.

Thanks Majid.

What type of rock are you bolting and how hard is it? Once again I would like to reinitiate that the bolts you are using are ONLY for hard rock and they can fail under bodyweight alone in soft rock.

USnavy, please don't reinitiate anymore bullshit like this. Why do you think these bolts would fail under bodyweight alone? And why do you think shear strength would fluctuate between soft or hard rock?

And why do you think shear strength would fluctuate between soft or hard rock?

It is impressive, isn't it?

I'm hoping that this is a exquisitely elaborate troll.

Jay

Yes, thank you for joining us. I brought that up 20 posts ago.

do not listen to USNAVY, he will get you killed. he knows nothing about bolting. in fact, he was just here few post ago asking people how to bolt himself.

USnavy, please don't reinitiate anymore bullshit like this. Why do you think these bolts would fail under bodyweight alone? And why do you think shear strength would fluctuate between soft or hard rock?

ummm... of course the pull out strength of a bolt will be lower in soft (weak) rock. That’s common knowledge... Look at the strength values chart of any expansion bolt on the market. They give values for low compressive strength (soft), medium compressive strength (medium) and high compressive strength (hard) concrete. The strength values for soft rock is ALWAYS [much] lower than the strength values for hard rock except in cases where a very long bolt is being used.

As far as the bolt pulling on body weight in soft rock:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gzuhyi76UqE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQt4AbQmJjE

The bolts in those videos are very similar to what the OP is using.

Is it a joke? Sounds like. God bless me.
I only know some climbing English.

Yes, and he stated in his first or second post that the rock was granite.

There are lots of old quarries with sport routes in them. Seems like a decent use of an otherwise nearly useless area.

Simon, keep up the good work! Anybody that is helping to develop climbing within China deserves praise. A few concerns though...

As you climb and route set more, you will develop an eye for finding great lines. The traverse at the top is not the best idea. I have seen too many accidents/injuries with this same scenario. although this is sport climbing and relatively safe, most people and great lines generally go up and not across.

Most people like to feel secure and safe on the rock so an extra bolt here and there is no biggie. You just don't need one every .75 meter. And as a Chinese climber i think you probably enjoy flying through the air time and time again. anyway, the crags i have seen in yangshuo are very safe in my opinion. Laowei's feel they are over bolted but then again it is a safety issue. I have just bolted 10 routes here and most of the time the bolts are roughly 1.5 to 2.0 meters apart, some more some less depending on the fall. use good judgment.

I believe a good trad line should stay a trad line, however you are in a quarry. Even if the rock seems solid, don't trust it. (yes, even granite) I find no ethical reason to say 'no bolting in quarries' cause truly they have been disturbed already by far greater forces than any drill and wrench could provide. Bolt the quarries with dignity and know you are increasing the outdoor value of such a denuded place. But please use good judgement and do not bolt near cracks, flakes, or any other hazard except when there is no other option.

The largest issue i see here is the access. Make sure you know who is leasing the land and they are aware of your activities. In Yangshuo, we've had too many controversies over ownership/access/money to not pay future heed to these issues. Climbing will become more popular in China, however it will always be controlled by the government. Take the neccessary steps now so your project does not get cancelled. We have found the government supports climbing development; they just want to know what is happening.

Finally, i invite you to make the journey down south and let's go bolt some routes together on some sick limestone. Peace.

Thank you very much.
But i think Navy is a warm heart man. And he bolted a lot within short time.

He could also use a little practice back pedaling.

No, I can tell he is an experienced back pedaler. Just look at his shoes.