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Is gear4rocks a legit company???
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cilohabmilc


Sep 23, 2009, 1:18 AM
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Is gear4rocks a legit company???
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I've been seeing gear from a company in the Ukraine called gear4rocks on ebay. Has anyone bought or tested any of their gear? It looks similar to the BD stuff, but their english isn't so good and they aren't UIAA certified yet. I bet it is hard for a new company to break into the market, but does anyone have a clue if these guys are legit? I'd like to order a piece and have it tested, but don't have $50 to splurge on a possibly junk piece of gear.

Here's one of their pieces.
http://cgi.ebay.com/...26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D54


(This post was edited by cilohabmilc on Sep 23, 2009, 1:20 AM)


USnavy


Sep 23, 2009, 1:24 AM
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Re: [cilohabmilc] Is gear4rocks a legit company??? [In reply to]
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Yes they are legit and yes their cams have been tested. They hold up to their ratings (in the tests I have seen). But one only knows how well their quality control is. Don’t go cheep, get some Camalots.

Anyway a UIAA cert doesn’t mean shit with trad gear as far as strength goes. A cam only needs to hold 5 kN to get the UIAA stamp and some trad gear that only holds 2 kN can still get the UIAA stamp if they list the gear as progression or aid equipment.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Sep 23, 2009, 1:29 AM)


carabiner96


Sep 23, 2009, 2:05 AM
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USnavy wrote:
Yes they are legit and yes their cams have been tested. They hold up to their ratings (in the tests I have seen). But one only knows how well their quality control is. Don’t go cheep, get some Camalots.

Anyway a UIAA cert doesn’t mean shit with trad gear as far as strength goes. A cam only needs to hold 5 kN to get the UIAA stamp and some trad gear that only holds 2 kN can still get the UIAA stamp if they list the gear as progression or aid equipment.


hmm.


rschap


Sep 23, 2009, 2:33 AM
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Re: [carabiner96] Is gear4rocks a legit company??? [In reply to]
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Tested sure but what about quality control. You’re braver then me if you if you use them.


taydude


Sep 23, 2009, 2:42 AM
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Re: [rschap] Is gear4rocks a legit company??? [In reply to]
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If you looked at that gear and thought about climbing on it you've got some big balls sir. Everyone pretty much agrees that it's super sketchy. Is it really worth the savings to risk your life like that?


gmggg


Sep 23, 2009, 2:43 AM
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Re: [rschap] Is gear4rocks a legit company??? [In reply to]
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rschap wrote:
Tested sure but what about quality control. You’re braver then me if you if you use them.

What's wrong with nylocs?

I have always wanted to try their wired tricam idea though, it seems like it might be a nice halfway point between hexes and tricams. Although, other than novelty, I don't know why one would really need that halfway point.


scotty1974


Sep 23, 2009, 3:57 AM
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Re: [cilohabmilc] Is gear4rocks a legit company??? [In reply to]
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I'm sure it will hold, no worse that any old school cam, but...

I've seen them before and NEVER thought they looked like BD's but it looks like after the patent expiration, things done changed.

If I was to buy them, I'd go with the ones that are obvious knock offs of the BD's. Skip the older ones...


charlie.elverson


Sep 23, 2009, 4:26 AM
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I saw this company a little while back and the gear was way sketchier looking back then. It looked like something a 10 year old made with legos. One thing I notice is that they're still using nuts to hold the cam lobes on. These are no longer used in modern cams because of their tendency to loosen with time (although on these it looks like the nuts are protected from rotating, I still wouldn't trust them).


billcoe_


Sep 23, 2009, 5:00 AM
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Re: [charlie.elverson] Is gear4rocks a legit company??? [In reply to]
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I've bought 3 of their nut tools. I grind the tips down into sharp little hooks for cutting out roots. They are the longest/strongest/thinnest combo for digging out small cracks. They reliably and rapidly shipped them to me each time.

I have no experience with their cams, but I know that Metolius, Trango, BD get tested extensively before/during/and after production. Based on that alone, plus the fact that everyone is familiar with the size range of the Mfgs I noted: I'd pass on the cams.

But that's me.


milesenoell


Sep 23, 2009, 5:28 AM
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Re: [cilohabmilc] Is gear4rocks a legit company??? [In reply to]
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I'm climbing on a second hand rack, but second hand you at least get a major price break while you gamble with your future. Shaving off what, 10 percent, 15 maybe, of the price of new gear just doesn't sound like something I'd be able to feel good about knowing that it's costing me confidence in my gear. I want to be worried about the placement not the piece. Get something you trust so you'll want to climb above it. Trad whippers are scary for a good reason.


(This post was edited by milesenoell on Sep 23, 2009, 5:29 AM)


adatesman


Sep 23, 2009, 7:36 PM
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altelis


Sep 23, 2009, 7:53 PM
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Re: [adatesman] Is gear4rocks a legit company??? [In reply to]
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adatesman wrote:
charlie.elverson wrote:
One thing I notice is that they're still using nuts to hold the cam lobes on. These are no longer used in modern cams because of their tendency to loosen with time (although on these it looks like the nuts are protected from rotating, I still wouldn't trust them).

BZZZTTT!!!! Incorrect, thanks for playing. TongueSmile

Off the top of my head, current generation OP Link Cams, CCH Aliens and all single stem Rock Empire use nuts as their axle terminations. Well, almost... the RE use large head hex cap screws, but same idea.

And FWIW, there's a old review/test of a gear4rocks cam here. Looks like the ones they're making currently are nicer and when you get down to it building a cam isn't rocket science. All you need is the proper curve on the lobes and the ability to swage the fittings, neither of which is hard to do.

Hey Aric, I'm not trying to be a dick, and I'm not trying to get massive thread-drift here, but given your history on this site with both potentially-read-as-implicit-attacks against CCH QC as well as some explicit warnings about Aliens, I would think long and hard before coming back by saying something like that about a gear company.

Why the lax attitude with gear4rocks and not Aliens? Surely there aren't nearly enough people using gear4rocks cams out there for quality concerns to start popping up, are there? I would wager one of the reasons that as many Alien issues popped up as they did is that so many people used these cams so often. gear4rock cams are a different story. Maybe they are fine, but they haven't really been used enough to be "field tested" and they certainly don't (as far as I can tell) have any sort of reliable certification for their QC process.

Just doesn't seem fair or logically sound to have these two contradictory positions. In fact it seems to further people's claims that you are biased. Now, I don't think that is true. BUT this sort of flippant stance against a company with far less of a history than CCH seems a bit biased, eh?


bigjonnyc


Sep 23, 2009, 9:01 PM
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Re: [altelis] Is gear4rocks a legit company??? [In reply to]
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From that eBay page:

gear4rocks wrote:
We test this size of cam five times and got the maxium load rate shown in the table below.

This line doesn't exactly make me want to go out and take some whippers on their gear.


adatesman


Sep 23, 2009, 9:34 PM
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altelis


Sep 23, 2009, 9:39 PM
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Sorry man, didn't mean to be as confrontational as I sounded. First, I didn't realize that they pull test all their pieces to 50%, nor about that other certification. Also, I did space on the swage/braze distinction in manufacturing. That does make a big difference.

As far as my remark about field testing, I haven't climbed every where and there are certainly more knowledgable/experience than I, but I have climbed in Europe and South Africa. Nobody I've climbed with here or abroad had any of those cams on their rack. Sure, their may be people using them. Possibly more than people use Aliens (pre or post issues). I just haven't seen it and I've climbed in a couple places. Not a ton, but a few.

Also, rereading my post I realize that my question sounded more rhetorical than I meant it to. It really was more of a question posed with some (what I thought to be) confounding "issues".

Cheers. Not sure if I'm completely sold, but I do at least think you have a valid point.


EDITED to add: I wasn't trying to defend CCH over and above gear4rocks, just so we are clear. That was never my intention. My personal feelings on the issue aside, that wasn't the point of my, well, point.


(This post was edited by altelis on Sep 23, 2009, 9:43 PM)


bennydh


Sep 23, 2009, 9:44 PM
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Re: [altelis] Is gear4rocks a legit company??? [In reply to]
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altelis wrote:
adatesman wrote:
charlie.elverson wrote:
One thing I notice is that they're still using nuts to hold the cam lobes on. These are no longer used in modern cams because of their tendency to loosen with time (although on these it looks like the nuts are protected from rotating, I still wouldn't trust them).

BZZZTTT!!!! Incorrect, thanks for playing. TongueSmile

Off the top of my head, current generation OP Link Cams, CCH Aliens and all single stem Rock Empire use nuts as their axle terminations. Well, almost... the RE use large head hex cap screws, but same idea.

And FWIW, there's a old review/test of a gear4rocks cam here. Looks like the ones they're making currently are nicer and when you get down to it building a cam isn't rocket science. All you need is the proper curve on the lobes and the ability to swage the fittings, neither of which is hard to do.

Hey Aric, I'm not trying to be a dick, and I'm not trying to get massive thread-drift here, but given your history on this site with both potentially-read-as-implicit-attacks against CCH QC as well as some explicit warnings about Aliens, I would think long and hard before coming back by saying something like that about a gear company.

Why the lax attitude with gear4rocks and not Aliens? Surely there aren't nearly enough people using gear4rocks cams out there for quality concerns to start popping up, are there? I would wager one of the reasons that as many Alien issues popped up as they did is that so many people used these cams so often. gear4rock cams are a different story. Maybe they are fine, but they haven't really been used enough to be "field tested" and they certainly don't (as far as I can tell) have any sort of reliable certification for their QC process.

Just doesn't seem fair or logically sound to have these two contradictory positions. In fact it seems to further people's claims that you are biased. Now, I don't think that is true. BUT this sort of flippant stance against a company with far less of a history than CCH seems a bit biased, eh?

Sorry for participating in the thread drift. I don't climb on either CCH Aliens, or gear4rocks cams. I also don't know enough about either one of their Quality Control systems in play. What I do know, is that I've heard of, and spoken with people who have blown up Aliens. Whether or not it is a market share issue, or the amount of publicity CCH Aliens receives when a cam fails, I'm unsure. I can't say I've heard of gear4rock cams failing, but maybe it is because of the small market share and field usage.

Without being facetious, I'll bet BD and Metolius have fair shares of the market and I don't hear much about failures on their gear. I also am unsure of OPacs link cams as far as market share is concerned, but we have heard much more about their failures, and I suspect they have a much smaller portion of the market cornered.

I will say, In regards to calling adatesman's stance or opinions being flipant, based on the history of gear seems a little unfair. Maybe he has a lot of personal history on the matter, that I am not trying to delve into. A perceived history, I'll agree they may receive unfair attacks at times, of CCH is that their cams can and have failed; and while gear4rocks has an almost unheard of history, gear failure isn't a part of it yet, and I hope it never will be.

Not trying to start a pissing match of any sort, I felt like I had a slightly removed perspective on the two companies since I don't climb on either one's gear.


lvpyne


Sep 23, 2009, 10:11 PM
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altelis wrote:
... I haven't climbed every where and there are certainly more knowledgable/experience than I, but I have climbed in Europe and South Africa. Nobody I've climbed with here or abroad had any of those cams on their rack.

In a sort of funny Clue-esque twist: I have climbed with a British friend, in South Africa, using Petrenko cams.


adatesman


Sep 23, 2009, 10:53 PM
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USnavy


Sep 25, 2009, 5:53 AM
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Re: [bigjonnyc] Is gear4rocks a legit company??? [In reply to]
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bigjonnyc wrote:
From that eBay page:

gear4rocks wrote:
We test this size of cam five times and got the maxium load rate shown in the table below.

This line doesn't exactly make me want to go out and take some whippers on their gear.

They most likely mean they took five samples and pulled them to destruction and recorded their failing strengths. They then took the average or lowest value of those tests and rounded down to the nearest number and stamped that value as the listed breaking strength on their cams. Three Sigma is a much more reliable rating standard and five test samples is not near enough, but we are not dealing with Black Diamond here.

Anyway, I doubt they pull each cam to its average breaking strength then sell them. They would be warped to hell, unsafe and useless if they did that.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Sep 25, 2009, 5:55 AM)


Partner cracklover


Sep 25, 2009, 3:24 PM
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adatesman wrote:
I just got that measurement the other day, so I'm looking at losing 3 months of my life again in the very near future. Unsure

Pardon me if I'm psyched to hear about you generating more data (and cool videos of exploding gear).

Sounds like maybe you'd been taking a break, which is a good thing! But since you're getting back into it, any interest in that dogbone I PM'ed you about a while ago?

In reply to:
EDIT- Oh, and JEALOUS about climbing in SA. Was there, saw lots of good climbing, but didn't since I hadn't gotten into it yet. Mad

I heard from a friend that there's a place there that's very similar to the Gunks, only three times taller, and all sport bolted. Sounds very cool.

GO


agentmm


Sep 25, 2009, 3:50 PM
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Re: [cilohabmilc] Is gear4rocks a legit company??? [In reply to]
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What would be the definitive way for "us" (I quote "us" because I can't do anything about it but someone here can) to legitimize these products?

If a set of cams and nuts were purchased and rigorously tested, there would still be the issue of QC at the factory even if they seemed ridiculously strong/well made/safe etc after testing the one set.

Would submission to an outside certification body put this post to rest?

Essentially my question revolves around the issue of how and when a company becomes a trusted entity in this world of life and death climbing.

I'm willing to pitch for a cam or a set of nuts if need be. I think it would be really cool if collective knowledge and know-how here could speak to this issue more confidently then submitted opinions.


markc


Sep 25, 2009, 4:09 PM
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adatesman wrote:
They're much more expensive now (in a relative sense), but back when they were $15/cam it was another question. Nowadays when another $5 gets you into something more well known here in the US, perhaps it isn't as attractive an option.

I was already familiar with gear4rocks from earlier discussions, and didn't click the link until seeing scotty's comment. The price sure has gone up. $40? It looks like their finish work has come up some, but not to that extent.


adatesman


Sep 25, 2009, 4:13 PM
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Partner cracklover


Sep 25, 2009, 4:25 PM
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adatesman wrote:
cracklover wrote:
adatesman wrote:
I just got that measurement the other day, so I'm looking at losing 3 months of my life again in the very near future. Unsure

Pardon me if I'm psyched to hear about you generating more data (and cool videos of exploding gear).

Sounds like maybe you'd been taking a break, which is a good thing! But since you're getting back into it, any interest in that dogbone I PM'ed you about a while ago?

Not so much a break as getting caught up with my real work... Unfortunately that lead to missing out on most of the climbing season, but that's the way it is. Unsure

Yeah, I meant taking a break from all the rc.com testing, for which your only recompense was our thanks (and flames, depending).

In reply to:
Oh, and I'll pass on the dogbone. I've got so much stuff here to break I'm losing track of what came from where and have little hope of getting to any of it any time soon. Frown

Okay, no prob.

BTW, Table Mountain place looks like just the place. Uber-cool.

Hope you get to get out sometime before the weather turns. I could happily hook you up with some Gunks partners if you have the time, but not the partners.

Okay, I promise to stop jacking the thread now. Sorry!

GBlush


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