|
iknowfear
Nov 27, 2009, 10:33 AM
Post #101 of 124
(20239 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2004
Posts: 670
|
sbaclimber wrote: foodgeek wrote: sbaclimber wrote: brokesomeribs wrote: Ankertau? Googling turned up nothing - is it just a huge hunk of rope? Would love some info. Leo is my friend It's 3m of 32mm LIROS Super Yacht Mooring Line You trust something only rated for 175kn? I know, it's pretty risky, but I like living on the edge... hey, don't forget the knot WILL weaken it!
|
|
|
|
|
kobaz
Nov 27, 2009, 10:09 PM
Post #102 of 124
(20192 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 19, 2004
Posts: 726
|
This one seems bomber...
(This post was edited by kobaz on Nov 27, 2009, 10:09 PM)
|
Attachments:
|
cam.jpg
(37.3 KB)
|
|
|
|
|
currupt4130
Nov 27, 2009, 10:16 PM
Post #103 of 124
(20188 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 7, 2008
Posts: 515
|
kobaz wrote: This one seems bomber... [img]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4348;[/img] I'd whip all over that...
|
|
|
|
|
sp00ki
Nov 27, 2009, 10:32 PM
Post #104 of 124
(20178 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 2, 2009
Posts: 552
|
I don't climb trad, but all of this (very interesting) discussion makes me wonder... assuming that every potential placement gets to witness-- over the course of a route's life-- everything from occasional to daily falls, does pro and the force put on it eventually change the difficulty of a route? How common is it for falls to change an easily protectable crack into something that's almost worthless? Is it feasible that if a route becomes popular enough (given the ever increasing popularity of the sport), a route could go from protectable to dangerous or even un-climbable in the near future from climbers falling from especially difficult cruxes onto gear? is this to be considered when selecting the type of gear to place? Finally, is there gear that's more secure than just knots of rope that puts less stress on rock features than bare aluminum nuts?
(This post was edited by sp00ki on Nov 27, 2009, 10:34 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
cintune
Nov 28, 2009, 4:23 AM
Post #105 of 124
(20128 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1293
|
sp00ki wrote: I don't climb trad, but all of this (very interesting) discussion makes me wonder... assuming that every potential placement gets to witness-- over the course of a route's life-- everything from occasional to daily falls, does pro and the force put on it eventually change the difficulty of a route? How common is it for falls to change an easily protectable crack into something that's almost worthless? Is it feasible that if a route becomes popular enough (given the ever increasing popularity of the sport), a route could go from protectable to dangerous or even un-climbable in the near future from climbers falling from especially difficult cruxes onto gear? Depends on the rock. The harder and more consolidated the placement, say in granite or quartzite, the less abuse it will suffer over time. Sandstones and some limestone can get trashed very easily.
sp00ki wrote: s this to be considered when selecting the type of gear to place? Well, sure.
sp00ki wrote: Finally, is there gear that's more secure than just knots of rope that puts less stress on rock features than bare aluminum nuts? There are those plastic nuts out there, but the force of a fall is what it is. In general the more surface area in contact, the better.
|
|
|
|
|
sbaclimber
Nov 28, 2009, 8:16 AM
Post #106 of 124
(20105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 3118
|
sp00ki wrote: Finally, is there gear that's more secure than just knots of rope that puts less stress on rock features than bare aluminum nuts? Yes, big-ol' bolts (rings)... But.......in most of these areas, there are very strict rules regarding where and how they are to be placed. So, there aren't very many of them. Anything that might even remotely be considered a "sport" route, is waaaaayyyyy beyond my ability to climb.
cintune wrote: There are those plastic nuts out there, but the force of a fall is what it is. In general the more surface area in contact, the better. Plastic gear isn't allowed either... Very true about the surface area, that is why knots and slings actually work quite well in sandstone. (alot of surface area on a generally very rough surface)
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Nov 28, 2009, 8:17 AM)
|
Attachments:
|
Ring_small.JPG
(97.2 KB)
|
|
|
|
|
currupt4130
Nov 29, 2009, 2:12 AM
Post #108 of 124
(19980 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 7, 2008
Posts: 515
|
bill413 wrote: kobaz wrote: This one seems bomber... [img]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4348;[/img] Aren't you supposed to try & get protection into two separate cracks? Redundancy! I like it!
|
|
|
|
|
coolcat83
Nov 29, 2009, 7:48 PM
Post #110 of 124
(19887 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 27, 2007
Posts: 1007
|
sbaclimber wrote: sbaclimber wrote: I just "tied" a new even-bigger-than-those-before monkey's fist last night. Will have to see if I can get pic of it in action soon. Alright.....here it is.....bomber as! (#4 BD for scale) [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4353;[/image] i'd hate to have that thing blow and hit me in the head
|
|
|
|
|
sbaclimber
Nov 29, 2009, 8:03 PM
Post #111 of 124
(19885 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 3118
|
coolcat83 wrote: sbaclimber wrote: sbaclimber wrote: I just "tied" a new even-bigger-than-those-before monkey's fist last night. Will have to see if I can get pic of it in action soon. Alright.....here it is.....bomber as! (#4 BD for scale) [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4353;[/image] i'd hate to have that thing blow and hit me in the head yeah..............that would suck....
|
|
|
|
|
Dirtdart
Nov 29, 2009, 9:16 PM
Post #112 of 124
(19846 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 24, 2008
Posts: 22
|
http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4348;
In reply to: Aren't you supposed to try & get protection into two separate cracks? Yeah, there another spot about a foot and a half lower that takes a #4 camalot
|
|
|
|
|
climbingtrash
Nov 29, 2009, 10:44 PM
Post #114 of 124
(19816 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 19, 2006
Posts: 5114
|
Dirtdart wrote: http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4348; In reply to: Aren't you supposed to try & get protection into two separate cracks? Yeah, there another spot about a foot and a half lower that takes a #4 camalot
|
|
|
|
|
kobaz
Nov 30, 2009, 12:54 AM
Post #115 of 124
(19769 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 19, 2004
Posts: 726
|
Dirtdart wrote: http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4348; In reply to: Aren't you supposed to try & get protection into two separate cracks? Yeah, there another spot about a foot and a half lower that takes a #4 camalot I swear I saw a good big bro placement down there.
|
|
|
|
|
Dirtdart
Nov 30, 2009, 1:24 AM
Post #116 of 124
(19753 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 24, 2008
Posts: 22
|
you must have been there after me
|
|
|
|
|
kobaz
Nov 30, 2009, 5:28 AM
Post #117 of 124
(19731 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 19, 2004
Posts: 726
|
Okay... back on track
(This post was edited by kobaz on Nov 30, 2009, 5:29 AM)
|
Attachments:
|
chicken.jpg
(108 KB)
|
|
|
|
|
kobaz
Nov 30, 2009, 5:35 AM
Post #118 of 124
(19726 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 19, 2004
Posts: 726
|
How not to set a toprope anchor, lesson 1.
(This post was edited by kobaz on Nov 30, 2009, 5:35 AM)
|
Attachments:
|
anchor1.jpg
(48.3 KB)
|
|
anchor2.jpg
(73.4 KB)
|
|
anchor3.jpg
(82.8 KB)
|
|
|
|
|
Adk
Dec 1, 2009, 12:03 AM
Post #119 of 124
(19644 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 1085
|
dr_feelgood wrote: kobaz wrote: This one seems bomber... Looks flared and dirty to me. At least the gear is going back to the rack.
|
|
|
|
|
USnavy
Dec 1, 2009, 3:35 AM
Post #120 of 124
(19601 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
kobaz wrote: Okay... back on track [img]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4355;[/img] Meh, that’s normal in Red Rocks. I have climbed pitches where that’s the only pro.
|
|
|
|
|
josiahdood
Dec 1, 2009, 10:14 AM
Post #121 of 124
(19532 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 4, 2005
Posts: 51
|
kobaz wrote: Okay... back on track [img]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4355;[/img] That being granite, I would consider that bomber as all hell. It's almost like a 5"x10" bolt...
|
|
|
|
|
kobaz
Dec 1, 2009, 4:28 PM
Post #122 of 124
(19485 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 19, 2004
Posts: 726
|
Yeah, I didn't write whether it was good or bad, but it looked like a placement picture worth of posting.
|
|
|
|
|
rainman0915
Dec 2, 2009, 6:12 PM
Post #123 of 124
(19385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 11, 2008
Posts: 233
|
what did u use for the core?
|
|
|
|
|
|