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Gear Placement Pictures

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iknowfear

Nov 27, 2009, 10:33 AM
Post #101 of 124 (20194 views)
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Registered: Sep 8, 2004
Posts: 670

Re: [sbaclimber] Gear Placement Pictures [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

sbaclimber wrote:

foodgeek wrote:

sbaclimber wrote:

brokesomeribs wrote:

Ankertau?

Googling turned up nothing - is it just a huge hunk of rope? Would love some info.

Leo is my friend Cool

It's 3m of 32mm LIROS Super Yacht Mooring Line

You trust something only rated for 175kn? Smile

I know, it's pretty risky, but I like living on the edge... Tongue

hey, don't forget the knot WILL weaken it!

kobaz

Nov 27, 2009, 10:09 PM
Post #102 of 124 (20147 views)
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Registered: Sep 19, 2004
Posts: 726

Re: [iknowfear] Gear Placement Pictures [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (7 ratings)	Can't Post

This one seems bomber...

(This post was edited by kobaz on Nov 27, 2009, 10:09 PM)

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cam.jpg (37.3 KB)

currupt4130

Nov 27, 2009, 10:16 PM
Post #103 of 124 (20143 views)
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Registered: Feb 7, 2008
Posts: 515

Re: [kobaz] Gear Placement Pictures [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

kobaz wrote:

This one seems bomber...

[img]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4348;[/img]

I'd whip all over that...

sp00ki

Nov 27, 2009, 10:32 PM
Post #104 of 124 (20133 views)
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Registered: Jul 2, 2009
Posts: 552

Re: [billcoe_] Gear Placement Pictures [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

I don't climb trad, but all of this (very interesting) discussion makes me wonder... assuming that every potential placement gets to witness-- over the course of a route's life-- everything from occasional to daily falls, does pro and the force put on it eventually change the difficulty of a route?
How common is it for falls to change an easily protectable crack into something that's almost worthless?
Is it feasible that if a route becomes popular enough (given the ever increasing popularity of the sport), a route could go from protectable to dangerous or even un-climbable in the near future from climbers falling from especially difficult cruxes onto gear?

is this to be considered when selecting the type of gear to place?

Finally, is there gear that's more secure than just knots of rope that puts less stress on rock features than bare aluminum nuts?

(This post was edited by sp00ki on Nov 27, 2009, 10:34 PM)

cintune

Nov 28, 2009, 4:23 AM
Post #105 of 124 (20083 views)
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Re: [sp00ki] Gear Placement Pictures [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

sp00ki wrote:

Depends on the rock. The harder and more consolidated the placement, say in granite or quartzite, the less abuse it will suffer over time. Sandstones and some limestone can get trashed very easily.

sp00ki wrote:

s this to be considered when selecting the type of gear to place?

Well, sure.

sp00ki wrote:

Finally, is there gear that's more secure than just knots of rope that puts less stress on rock features than bare aluminum nuts?

There are those plastic nuts out there, but the force of a fall is what it is. In general the more surface area in contact, the better.

sbaclimber

Nov 28, 2009, 8:16 AM
Post #106 of 124 (20060 views)
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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Re: [cintune] Gear Placement Pictures [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

sp00ki wrote:

Finally, is there gear that's more secure than just knots of rope that puts less stress on rock features than bare aluminum nuts?

Yes, big-ol' bolts (rings)...

But.......in most of these areas, there are very strict rules regarding where and how they are to be placed. So, there aren't very many of them. Anything that might even remotely be considered a "sport" route, is waaaaayyyyy beyond my ability to climb.

cintune wrote:

There are those plastic nuts out there, but the force of a fall is what it is. In general the more surface area in contact, the better.

Plastic gear isn't allowed either...
Very true about the surface area, that is why knots and slings actually work quite well in sandstone.
(alot of surface area on a generally very rough surface)

(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Nov 28, 2009, 8:17 AM)

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Ring_small.JPG (97.2 KB)

bill413

Nov 28, 2009, 3:47 PM
Post #107 of 124 (20012 views)
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Registered: Oct 19, 2004
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Re: [kobaz] Gear Placement Pictures [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

kobaz wrote:

This one seems bomber...

Aren't you supposed to try & get protection into two separate cracks?

currupt4130

Nov 29, 2009, 2:12 AM
Post #108 of 124 (19935 views)
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Registered: Feb 7, 2008
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Re: [bill413] Gear Placement Pictures [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

bill413 wrote:

kobaz wrote:

This one seems bomber...

[img]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4348;[/img]

Aren't you supposed to try & get protection into two separate cracks?

Redundancy! I like it!

sbaclimber

Nov 29, 2009, 6:26 PM
Post #109 of 124 (19864 views)
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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Re: [sbaclimber] Gear Placement Pictures [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

sbaclimber wrote:

I just "tied" a new even-bigger-than-those-before monkey's fist last night. Will have to see if I can get pic of it in action soon.

Alright.....here it is.....bomber as! Cool

(#4 BD for scale)

(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Nov 29, 2009, 6:29 PM)

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Kinderkopf.JPG (118 KB)

coolcat83

Nov 29, 2009, 7:48 PM
Post #110 of 124 (19842 views)
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Registered: Jan 27, 2007
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Re: [sbaclimber] Gear Placement Pictures [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

sbaclimber wrote:

I just "tied" a new even-bigger-than-those-before monkey's fist last night. Will have to see if I can get pic of it in action soon.

Alright.....here it is.....bomber as! Cool

(#4 BD for scale)
[image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4353;[/image]

i'd hate to have that thing blow and hit me in the head

sbaclimber

Nov 29, 2009, 8:03 PM
Post #111 of 124 (19840 views)
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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Re: [coolcat83] Gear Placement Pictures [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

coolcat83 wrote:

sbaclimber wrote:

I just "tied" a new even-bigger-than-those-before monkey's fist last night. Will have to see if I can get pic of it in action soon.

Alright.....here it is.....bomber as! Cool

(#4 BD for scale)
[image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4353;[/image]

i'd hate to have that thing blow and hit me in the head

yeah..............that would suck.... Frown

Dirtdart

Nov 29, 2009, 9:16 PM
Post #112 of 124 (19801 views)
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Registered: Nov 24, 2008
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Re: [bill413] Gear Placement Pictures [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4348;

In reply to:

Aren't you supposed to try & get protection into two separate cracks?

Yeah, there another spot about a foot and a half lower that takes a #4 camalot

dr_feelgood

Nov 29, 2009, 10:44 PM
Post #113 of 124 (19772 views)
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060

Re: [bill413] Gear Placement Pictures [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (2 ratings)	Can't Post

kobaz wrote:

This one seems bomber...

Looks flared and dirty to me.

climbingtrash

Nov 29, 2009, 10:44 PM
Post #114 of 124 (19771 views)
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
Posts: 5114

Re: [Dirtdart] Gear Placement Pictures [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (1 rating)	Can't Post

Dirtdart wrote:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4348;

In reply to:

Aren't you supposed to try & get protection into two separate cracks?

Yeah, there another spot about a foot and a half lower that takes a #4 camalot

kobaz

Nov 30, 2009, 12:54 AM
Post #115 of 124 (19724 views)
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Registered: Sep 19, 2004
Posts: 726

Re: [Dirtdart] Gear Placement Pictures [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Dirtdart wrote:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4348;

In reply to:

Aren't you supposed to try & get protection into two separate cracks?

Yeah, there another spot about a foot and a half lower that takes a #4 camalot

I swear I saw a good big bro placement down there.

Dirtdart

Nov 30, 2009, 1:24 AM
Post #116 of 124 (19708 views)
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Registered: Nov 24, 2008
Posts: 22

Re: [kobaz] Gear Placement Pictures [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

you must have been there after me

kobaz

Nov 30, 2009, 5:28 AM
Post #117 of 124 (19686 views)
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Registered: Sep 19, 2004
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Re: [Dirtdart] Gear Placement Pictures [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Okay... back on track

(This post was edited by kobaz on Nov 30, 2009, 5:29 AM)

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chicken.jpg (108 KB)

kobaz

Nov 30, 2009, 5:35 AM
Post #118 of 124 (19681 views)
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Registered: Sep 19, 2004
Posts: 726

Re: [kobaz] Gear Placement Pictures [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (1 rating)	Can't Post

How not to set a toprope anchor, lesson 1.

(This post was edited by kobaz on Nov 30, 2009, 5:35 AM)

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anchor1.jpg (48.3 KB)

anchor2.jpg (73.4 KB)

anchor3.jpg (82.8 KB)

Adk

Dec 1, 2009, 12:03 AM
Post #119 of 124 (19599 views)
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Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 1085

Re: [dr_feelgood] Gear Placement Pictures [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

dr_feelgood wrote:

kobaz wrote:

This one seems bomber...

Looks flared and dirty to me.

At least the gear is going back to the rack.

USnavy

Dec 1, 2009, 3:35 AM
Post #120 of 124 (19556 views)
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Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667

Re: [kobaz] Gear Placement Pictures [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (1 rating)	Can't Post

kobaz wrote:

Okay... back on track

[img]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4355;[/img]

Meh, that’s normal in Red Rocks. I have climbed pitches where that’s the only pro.

josiahdood

Dec 1, 2009, 10:14 AM
Post #121 of 124 (19487 views)
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Registered: Jan 4, 2005
Posts: 51

Re: [kobaz] Gear Placement Pictures [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

kobaz wrote:

Okay... back on track

[img]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4355;[/img]

That being granite, I would consider that bomber as all hell. It's almost like a 5"x10" bolt...

kobaz

Dec 1, 2009, 4:28 PM
Post #122 of 124 (19440 views)
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Registered: Sep 19, 2004
Posts: 726

Re: [josiahdood] Gear Placement Pictures [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Yeah, I didn't write whether it was good or bad, but it looked like a placement picture worth of posting.

rainman0915

Dec 2, 2009, 6:12 PM
Post #123 of 124 (19340 views)
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Registered: Dec 11, 2008
Posts: 233

Re: [sbaclimber] Gear Placement Pictures [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

what did u use for the core?

sbaclimber

Dec 2, 2009, 7:49 PM
Post #124 of 124 (19315 views)
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 3118

Re: [rainman0915] Gear Placement Pictures [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

rainman0915 wrote:

what did u use for the core?

80mm wooden ball

...not to give any secrets away, but that is also the trick for getting both ends to come out next to each other as well Tongue

(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Dec 2, 2009, 8:28 PM)

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