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slightlychilly
Dec 3, 2009, 12:24 AM
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I'm 5'10", and I weigh 118-122 pounds.
That's really, really thin-- like, underweight thin. But-- my health is fine, and I maintain this weight fairly simply.
I am curious, though, if a gain in weight would help me on the rock- provided it were in lean muscle. I know climbers tend to want to be light, but I'm thinking that if I put some muscle mass on, it might help my performance, even while increasing my weight.
What do you think? I need some input- it's a hard topic for me.
Thanks :)
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jcrew
Dec 3, 2009, 12:31 AM
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power always helps.....build power....don't go biking or something and bulk up your legs;
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agdavis
Dec 3, 2009, 12:45 AM
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slightlychilly wrote: I'm 5'10", and I weigh 118-122 pounds. That's really, really thin-- like, underweight thin. But-- my health is fine, and I maintain this weight fairly simply. I am curious, though, if a gain in weight would help me on the rock- provided it were in lean muscle. I know climbers tend to want to be light, but I'm thinking that if I put some muscle mass on, it might help my performance, even while increasing my weight. What do you think? I need some input- it's a hard topic for me. Thanks :)
are you a male or female?
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slightlychilly
Dec 3, 2009, 12:53 AM
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I'm a girl.
Ah! Biking is my other sport :(
But at around 120, I'm not really all that bulky anyway...
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jaablink
Dec 3, 2009, 1:42 AM
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You did not provide too much information here.
Age, years climbing. What goals are you training for? What type of rock do you train on? What type of climbing - like, Slabs , crack, steep , face, big wall...... ???
In general , with the vague information you give. i would give you this advice.
Your body will adapt to its environment in time. The more time you spend in your desired environment the faster it will adapt.
Factors like frequency and the type of terrain you train in will dictate how your body develops .
Slabs , stronger legs. Overhangs, stronger upper body . And so on…..
It really depends on many factors. If you are healthy, happy, and having fun . Just have keep having fun , climb often , and challenge yourself. Your body will adapt to suit in its own time.
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CCSRacer
Dec 3, 2009, 1:50 AM
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jaablink wrote: You did not provide too much information here. Age, years climbing. What goals are you training for? What type of rock do you train on? What type of climbing - like, Slabs , crack, steep , face, big wall...... ??? In general , with the vague information you give. i would give you this advice. Your body will adapt to its environment in time. The more time you spend in your desired environment the faster it will adapt. Factors like frequency and the type of terrain you train in will dictate how your body develops . Slabs , stronger legs. Overhangs, stronger upper body . And so on….. It really depends on many factors. If you are healthy, happy, and having fun . Just have keep having fun , climb often , and challenge yourself. Your body will adapt to suit in its own time.
Good advice.
When you can't climb, work out with similar movements and varying intensities. Don't be afraid to lift heavy either. If you are warmed up and use good technique, using weights that you can't lift more than 5-6 times for a set or two will really improve outright strength. Slooooooooowwww negatives too, focus on the mind/muscle connection. You will not get bulky this way. Endurance is a whole different approach...
BTW... I wouldn't consider 5' 10" / 118 underweight. So, don't change for me! 
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seatbeltpants
Dec 3, 2009, 2:18 AM
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most of the climbers i know are probably a similar build - i'm 6'1" and 155 pounds, frinstance. i've found that it has helped to add some bulk to my upper body, two years of climbing and i think i've added around 10 pounds of muscle. most of this has just been through climbing but i do do some weights work to work opposing muscle groups.
as to whether it'll help, i guess it depends on the style of climbing you want to excel at. one woman i climb with - she outclimbs me on most routes - is probably about your size but cannot do a single pull up. she doesn't do well on anything burly and overhanging but kicks arse on slabs / vertical. another girl i climb with is much the same build and size but has more strength and is better on overhangs but climbs, overall, at a lower grade.
so in summary i'd say that it depends on your goals, what you want to climb. if you're finding that you simply can't pull hard enough for long enough to do the routes you want to do then more muscle may help. otherwise, perhaps not.
steve
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slightlychilly
Dec 3, 2009, 2:23 AM
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You're right, not much info-- sorry! Here's some more:
I'm 23, and have been climbing only for about a year. I've mostly been working indoors, doing what most people do to start-- climbing sport, playing with bouldering. I've been introduced to crack climbing, and I think I'd like to pursue that-- chimney climbing also seems like it would be really, really neat to try to be good at.
I have strong legs, and tend to climb much better on toproping routes, because I can engage my height and my leg strength. Bouldering, or anything that calls for more back/shoulder strength, tends to leave me pretty well spent.
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Myxomatosis
Dec 3, 2009, 2:31 AM
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slightlychilly wrote: You're right, not much info-- sorry! Here's some more: I'm 23, and have been climbing only for about a year. I've mostly been working indoors, doing what most people do to start-- climbing sport, playing with bouldering. I've been introduced to crack climbing, and I think I'd like to pursue that-- chimney climbing also seems like it would be really, really neat to try to be good at. I have strong legs, and tend to climb much better on toproping routes, because I can engage my height and my leg strength. Bouldering, or anything that calls for more back/shoulder strength, tends to leave me pretty well spent.
AHH A key point there which is not to be missed... You have just told us your weakness... now you must go train your weakness and you will improve faster.
Do more leading (Fastest way I got better at climbing and getting stronger)
More Shoulder Moves... Slight over hang bouldering
Just remember to climb until you fall and take a good three day rest between hard training sessions at the gym and you will get the most from climbing.
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jaablink
Dec 3, 2009, 4:07 AM
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When I started climbing I was 140 at 5 8 I am now 32 ,140 at 5 8 . Sometimes I go up or down 3 4 5 pounds but always come back to my natural weight. Once your body is conditioned for the activity , it then has allot to do with technique, ones understanding of their body, how well you understand the medium, and solving the puzzles.
It is late, and there is too much to cover , but in short . Your body will adapt to the vertical world as you spend more time there, I also find it good to do pushups every morning on waking and before bedtime . Eat healthy and climb and don’t worry about your weight.
If you want to be good at crack climbing ? the most simple answer is .Climb as many cracks as you can ,as often as you can. Master each climb.
Hope this was helpful. Remember the rock is not going anywhere. Take your time.
Night night
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mr.tastycakes
Dec 3, 2009, 5:37 AM
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My 2 cents:
If you're not maximizing the value of your climbing/training time then all this discussion of strength/weight is just....silly bullshit.
Are you doing movement training drills? Working through route pyramids, or boulder problem pyramids? Doing aerobic/anaerobic endurance and power training (on the wall, not your bike)? Do you have climbing goals (specific climbs, or at least grades you'd like to climb)? Do you have a plan to achieve those goals?
I'll go out on a limb and say your answer to most of these questions is "no". You've been climbing a year. Focus on climbing, and to hell with all this strength/weight garbage.
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jcrew
Dec 3, 2009, 5:43 AM
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slightlychilly wrote: I'm a girl. Ah! Biking is my other sport :( But at around 120, I'm not really all that bulky anyway...
oh...i thought you were a guy weighing 120. i bike, and it holds me back.
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CCSRacer
Dec 3, 2009, 12:56 PM
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mr.tastycakes wrote: My 2 cents: If you're not maximizing the value of your climbing/training time then all this discussion of strength/weight is just....silly bullshit. Are you doing movement training drills? Working through route pyramids, or boulder problem pyramids? Doing aerobic/anaerobic endurance and power training (on the wall, not your bike)? Do you have climbing goals (specific climbs, or at least grades you'd like to climb)? Do you have a plan to achieve those goals? I'll go out on a limb and say your answer to most of these questions is "no". You've been climbing a year. Focus on climbing, and to hell with all this strength/weight garbage.
Get over yourself with this go pro or go home attitude. This isn't about strength to weight ratios anyway. It's about whether or not adding strength will help her climbing and as long as endurance isn't sacrificed, the answer is yes.
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Hotpies
Dec 3, 2009, 1:40 PM
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Don't sweat it. I doubt you'll get so bulky that muscle will hinder your climbing unless you're trying to send some pretty tough grades.
Go ahead and get stronger. I doubt very much that it will hurt your climbing. Just the opposite, I'd bet.
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mr.tastycakes
Dec 3, 2009, 2:11 PM
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CCSRacer wrote: mr.tastycakes wrote: My 2 cents: If you're not maximizing the value of your climbing/training time then all this discussion of strength/weight is just....silly bullshit. Are you doing movement training drills? Working through route pyramids, or boulder problem pyramids? Doing aerobic/anaerobic endurance and power training (on the wall, not your bike)? Do you have climbing goals (specific climbs, or at least grades you'd like to climb)? Do you have a plan to achieve those goals? I'll go out on a limb and say your answer to most of these questions is "no". You've been climbing a year. Focus on climbing, and to hell with all this strength/weight garbage. Get over yourself with this go pro or go home attitude. This isn't about strength to weight ratios anyway. It's about whether or not adding strength will help her climbing and as long as endurance isn't sacrificed, the answer is yes.
The OP is asking if gaining muscle mass will help her climbing by increasing her strength, but is concerned about possibly decreasing strength/weight ratio. I'm saying that at this early stage of the game (one year experience) strength/weight ratio is irrelevant. Learn to climb, don't worry about having the right body type for climbing.
As to your comment about my attitude, (1) you've misinterpreted it, and (2) you're in the training forum.
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CCSRacer
Dec 3, 2009, 2:18 PM
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Fair enough, but to say her question is silly bullshit if she isn't on an all out training program is wrong and obviously not helpful. Should she spend a lot of time analyzing it? No. But I still think it's a fair question.
You're right though that she phrased it differently than I interpreted it. I wouldn't suggest bulking up for the sake of bulking up, but training for strength and endurance with an accompanied gain in mass, sure...
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lena_chita
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Dec 3, 2009, 2:48 PM
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You are the same person who satarted the "tall women climbers" thread in Ladies room.
Listen, you have been climbing for a year. It is not a long time. You have not been bouldering much, mostly toproping by your own admission. It is NOT your weight that is an issue. It is NOT your height either. it is your general inexperience and weakenss as a climber.
Given that background, and given what you have said before in the other thread, what you need is NOT gaining muscle weight. What you need is a smarter way to train.
You are looking for a reason why you suck (sorry if it is too strong a word)-- simple, these things don't happen overnight. Stop comparing yourself to other people in the gym, and start working with what you've got.
You need to work on your technique. You need to identify your relative strengths and weaknesses, and work on them in a climbing-specific way. E.i. not say 'my arms and back are weak, I need to bulk up and gain lean muscles in those areas to become a stronger climber'. No, what you need is to identify the kind of moves/boulder problems, etc. you need to work on to get stronger in those area-- and then follow up by actually doing it.
I suggest that you get a book, such as Self-Coached Climber, and start from there.
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slightlychilly
Dec 3, 2009, 3:11 PM
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I'm sorry, I didn't mean to make a big deal about the whole thing-- I know I'm a pretty new climber, and that I shouldn't sweat the small stuff. Still, it's a fairly important aspect of climbing, and it's presented me with problems in other areas-- being light on the bike versus being strong enough to tackle steep climbs, etc.
I was just curious for some feedback and ideas; I didn't want to sound completely ignorant or anxious, especially given how new I am to the whole thing.
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tiendunn732
Dec 10, 2009, 5:30 PM
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the best way to improve your climbing skills would be to concentrating on developing a lean n muscular body....with proper guidance in the different climbing styles and techniques.... outdoor might be much difficult initially for anyone as usual... your shoulders are to be improved very much...try improve on your weaknesses.
I have been training for quite long but did not continue to concentrate on it regularly...n recently started to workin on it and have been improving...i ve found tht regularly swimming wud help u lot in not only climbing but even at other kinds of sports.
http://www.cephalexin500mg.net
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suprasoup
Dec 10, 2009, 10:09 PM
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slightlychilly wrote: I'm sorry, I didn't mean to make a big deal about the whole thing-- I know I'm a pretty new climber, and that I shouldn't sweat the small stuff. Still, it's a fairly important aspect of climbing, and it's presented me with problems in other areas-- being light on the bike versus being strong enough to tackle steep climbs, etc. I was just curious for some feedback and ideas; I didn't want to sound completely ignorant or anxious, especially given how new I am to the whole thing.
Don't apologize. Some RC'ers need to chill and step off their high horse every now and again.
An excess of strength is never a bad thing. I have yet to see a climber limited by an excess of strength. I have seen climbers, however, limited by a lack of strength. Just as there are different types of people there are different types of climbers. I doubt if there is one archetype in climbing. Climbing performance isn't just about strength or technique but is the sum of a number of things. By all means work your weaknesses but not to the exclusion of everything else.
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shimanilami
Dec 10, 2009, 11:50 PM
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You sound like my friend after he got his first road bike. After about a year of riding 4-5 days a week, I asked if he wanted to ride sometime. (I've been riding 3-4 days a week for 25 years.) He said that he wasn't sure if I could keep up with him. I held my tongue.
So I chose a moderate weekend ride. 60 miles. ~6K feet of climbing. It usually takes me 3.5 hours. I completely buried him. It took us >5 hours to complete the ride. At the end, he was totally demoralized, "I've been training so hard for so long. I should be as strong as you. It must be my diet ..."
Sorry, chump. It doesn't work that way.
Climbing, like biking, requires consisent training for long periods of time (except that climbing takes much, much longer.) You should curtail your short term expectations. And if you're serious about becoming a better climber, then you'll want to start plannig for the long haul.
Welcome to the club.
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jgill
Dec 25, 2009, 4:35 AM
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Here's a different take on this subject: I started climbing and doing gymnastics/bodyweight exercises during the mid 1950s, gaining considerable strength beyond that required for climbing. I could have stayed lighter, but I liked the exercising too much. Now I am going on 73 and you might suspect that since climbing requires less overall muscle strength than the other activity, I would be doing better on climbing problems than the strength exercises. However, it's just the opposite. I get a more powerful surge of energy and the accompanying kinaesthetic pleasure doing what bodyweight exercises I still can do, rather than straining those small muscle groups and tendons so vital for high grade climbing. It becomes apparent as you age how much of climbing depends on staying light and maintaining strong fingertips. Sometimes older climbers are better off in the weight room or doing bodyweight activities. 
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billcoe_
Dec 26, 2009, 2:58 PM
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Interesting John.....
slightlychilly, as you're new: http://en.wikipedia.org/...n_Gill_%28climber%29
...sounds like staying light for climbing and getting more mileage in is the way to go. An important thing to remember in training is to not injure yourself. So study the techniques for that as well: warming up strategies and techniques for instance.....maybe get one of the Horst books, he spends a log of time on those kinds of things as well as nutrition, etc etc.
http://www.amazon.com/...261839450&sr=1-1
Good luck!
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bothomsen
Dec 29, 2009, 1:09 AM
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the best thing for people above 60ye. is heavy weight training and some bikeriding for the cardio vascular system(lungs, heart, bloodvessels/venes).
The heavy weight training similar to Bodybuilding will maintane the musclemass to some degree. and also keep the bones strong for longer time, than without.
The bike riding will help the overall fitness and help to keep a good bloodflow in the legs. and help the chest, heart and lungs to stay fit.
climbing will mostly just help the motoric abillyties.
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dugl33
Dec 29, 2009, 2:25 AM
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I'm going to go ahead and recommend some jelly donuts and bearclaws.
And a little weight training for your upper body wouldn't hurt. Don't worry, those born to be extra thin don't bulk up so easy, and the extra strength will help your climbing and keep your joints healthy.
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