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PlasticHead
Feb 26, 2010, 3:43 PM
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How do you prepare for an indoor competition in 1 week?
Discontinue training and start "Carbohydrate Loading."
My plan is..
1 week prior to competition: Discontinue strenuos excercise and start stretching and drinking plenty of water. Doing some light aerobic excercise to keep the blood flowing.
3 days prior: completely discontinue any excercise? I've read that any excericse at this point will deplete your glycogen stores? At this point start eating nothing but carbs (90% of diet should be carbs?)
Morning of Comp: eat a carb breakfast, I'm thinking bagels? 
So the questions is: How do some of you prepare in order to maximize your performance during a comp?
Opinions?
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johnwesely
Feb 26, 2010, 4:17 PM
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PlasticHead wrote: How do you prepare for an indoor competition in 1 week? Discontinue training and start " Carbohydrate Loading." My plan is.. 1 week prior to competition: Discontinue strenuos excercise and start stretching and drinking plenty of water. Doing some light aerobic excercise to keep the blood flowing. 3 days prior: completely discontinue any excercise? I've read that any excericse at this point will deplete your glycogen stores? At this point start eating nothing but carbs (90% of diet should be carbs?) Morning of Comp: eat a carb breakfast, I'm thinking bagels? So the questions is: How do some of you prepare in order to maximize your performance during a comp? Opinions?
I think you might be over thinking this.
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west_by_god_virginia
Feb 26, 2010, 4:38 PM
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personally i think you should not be eating anything and that you should be subsisting only upon beer, which is a great source of carbohydrates!
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Grizvok
Feb 26, 2010, 4:51 PM
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johnwesely wrote: PlasticHead wrote: How do you prepare for an indoor competition in 1 week? Discontinue training and start " Carbohydrate Loading." My plan is.. 1 week prior to competition: Discontinue strenuos excercise and start stretching and drinking plenty of water. Doing some light aerobic excercise to keep the blood flowing. 3 days prior: completely discontinue any excercise? I've read that any excericse at this point will deplete your glycogen stores? At this point start eating nothing but carbs (90% of diet should be carbs?) Morning of Comp: eat a carb breakfast, I'm thinking bagels? So the questions is: How do some of you prepare in order to maximize your performance during a comp? Opinions? I think you might be over thinking this.
That and his "plan" is pretty bad.
(This post was edited by Grizvok on Feb 26, 2010, 4:51 PM)
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johnwesely
Feb 26, 2010, 5:56 PM
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Grizvok wrote: johnwesely wrote: PlasticHead wrote: How do you prepare for an indoor competition in 1 week? Discontinue training and start " Carbohydrate Loading." My plan is.. 1 week prior to competition: Discontinue strenuos excercise and start stretching and drinking plenty of water. Doing some light aerobic excercise to keep the blood flowing. 3 days prior: completely discontinue any excercise? I've read that any excericse at this point will deplete your glycogen stores? At this point start eating nothing but carbs (90% of diet should be carbs?) Morning of Comp: eat a carb breakfast, I'm thinking bagels? So the questions is: How do some of you prepare in order to maximize your performance during a comp? Opinions? I think you might be over thinking this. That and his "plan" is pretty bad.
Even by putting it in quotes, I think you give it too much credit.
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panacea82
Feb 26, 2010, 6:15 PM
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Here is what i would do. Call up your friends, grab some beer, and GO CLIMB OUTSIDE! Comps are for people that don't understand the true meaning of climbing. I have competed before but never on a serious level. Rock climbing is not a competition. It is purely for intrinsic value. Don't degrade the sport buy making it a competition. But that's just me and i am sure some people would disagree. Either way just make yourself happy.
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cornstateclimber
Feb 26, 2010, 6:19 PM
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id go with beer! not only is it full of carbs it also makes everyone better looking!
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sidepull
Feb 26, 2010, 6:42 PM
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Hah, google is just amazing! I entered, "preparing for climbing competition" and lo:
http://www.indoorclimbing.com/comp_preparation.html
http://www.mikedoyle.ca/...coachingdoc_10.shtml
http://books.google.com/...petition&f=false
My personal feeling is that if you're asking when it's a week a way then you've blown it - you should have asked 2 months ago. My other thought is that you should have searched and then asked a more specific, educated question tempered by some information about your level of activity. My final notion is that this is just a troll like 90% of the recent posts on this forum, and, unlike the past, it's not a funny one since you've cut and pasted information from the first URL I mention above. So you're either a thieving, plagiarizing troll, a well-intentioned moron who doesn't plan well, or just a moron. Take your pick and good luck at the comp.
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gmggg
Feb 26, 2010, 7:10 PM
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Here is a revision to your basic plan, I think it will work well for you...
1 week prior to competition: Discontinue strenuos excercise and start stretching and drinking plenty of water. Doing some light competitive eating, vomit, give up, and realize that you are not a "winner"
3 days prior: completely discontinue any exercise. I've read that any exercise at this point will deplete your glycogen stores? At this point start eating nothing. Play Donkey Kong for 6 hours. You do not get past level 3. Realize you are, in fact, a "loser".
Morning of Comp: eat a carb , I'm thinking(no you're not)? Prepare to get fallen on and defeated over and over again.
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PlasticHead
Feb 26, 2010, 7:23 PM
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panacea82 wrote: Here is what i would do. Call up your friends, grab some beer, and GO CLIMB OUTSIDE! Comps are for people that don't understand the true meaning of climbing. I have competed before but never on a serious level. Rock climbing is not a competition. It is purely for intrinsic value. Don't degrade the sport buy making it a competition. But that's just me and i am sure some people would disagree. Either way just make yourself happy.
I'm sixteen and competetion is merely for fun.
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PlasticHead
Feb 26, 2010, 7:35 PM
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gmggg wrote: Here is a revision to your basic plan, I think it will work well for you... 1 week prior to competition: Discontinue strenuos excercise and start stretching and drinking plenty of water. Doing some light competitive eating, vomit, give up, and realize that you are not a "winner" 3 days prior: completely discontinue any exercise. I've read that any exercise at this point will deplete your glycogen stores? At this point start eating nothing. Play Donkey Kong for 6 hours. You do not get past level 3. Realize you are, in fact, a "loser". Morning of Comp: eat a carb , I'm thinking(no you're not)? Prepare to get fallen on and defeated over and over again.
this thread shows how rude and misinformed some people are. Go ask your moms to reteach you some etiquette.
All I asked was for some opinions.
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lena_chita
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Feb 26, 2010, 7:42 PM
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PlasticHead wrote: I'm sixteen and competetion is merely for fun.
here is what you do:
1. Forget carboloading, or any other bullshit like that. You are not running a marathon, O.K.?
2. Climb as usual for most of the week. Skip climbing the day before the comp. (E.i. if the comp is on Saturday, don't climb after Thursday)
3. Get a good night sleep, eat a good breakfast on the day of the comp, pack some snacks and water with you, and have fun.
Even all of the above is not really crucial. I just went to a comp last Saturday. Didn't get enough sleep the night before, because I have other things in my life. Climbed pretty well, anyway. The guy who went with me climbed hard the night before the comp-- and still climbed really well in the comp.
It is really, really not a big deal, O.K.? Remember, you said it was for fun?
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marc801
Feb 26, 2010, 7:57 PM
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PlasticHead wrote: All I asked was for some opinions.
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gmggg
Feb 26, 2010, 8:04 PM
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PlasticHead wrote: gmggg wrote: Here is a revision to your basic plan, I think it will work well for you... 1 week prior to competition: Discontinue strenuos excercise and start stretching and drinking plenty of water. Doing some light competitive eating, vomit, give up, and realize that you are not a "winner" 3 days prior: completely discontinue any exercise. I've read that any exercise at this point will deplete your glycogen stores? At this point start eating nothing. Play Donkey Kong for 6 hours. You do not get past level 3. Realize you are, in fact, a "loser". Morning of Comp: eat a carb , I'm thinking(no you're not)? Prepare to get fallen on and defeated over and over again. this thread shows how rude and misinformed some people are. Go ask your moms to reteach you some etiquette. All I asked was for some opinions.
Misinformed? Only one of us has been to a competition. Trust me, you won't do that great, and some one will fall on you. Save the training regimen for later when you know what you need to do. Just have fun.
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PlasticHead
Feb 26, 2010, 8:14 PM
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gmggg wrote: PlasticHead wrote: gmggg wrote: Here is a revision to your basic plan, I think it will work well for you... 1 week prior to competition: Discontinue strenuos excercise and start stretching and drinking plenty of water. Doing some light competitive eating, vomit, give up, and realize that you are not a "winner" 3 days prior: completely discontinue any exercise. I've read that any exercise at this point will deplete your glycogen stores? At this point start eating nothing. Play Donkey Kong for 6 hours. You do not get past level 3. Realize you are, in fact, a "loser". Morning of Comp: eat a carb , I'm thinking(no you're not)? Prepare to get fallen on and defeated over and over again. this thread shows how rude and misinformed some people are. Go ask your moms to reteach you some etiquette. All I asked was for some opinions. Misinformed? Only one of us has been to a competition. Trust me, you won't do that great, and some one will fall on you. Save the training regimen for later when you know what you need to do. Just have fun.
I won't do that great? You're the one that is misinformed. & Nice profile you got there. V4 and 5.10-5.11a? What a laugh. Wanna compete against me and see if I won't do that great?
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gmggg
Feb 26, 2010, 8:23 PM
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PlasticHead wrote: gmggg wrote: PlasticHead wrote: gmggg wrote: Here is a revision to your basic plan, I think it will work well for you... 1 week prior to competition: Discontinue strenuos excercise and start stretching and drinking plenty of water. Doing some light competitive eating, vomit, give up, and realize that you are not a "winner" 3 days prior: completely discontinue any exercise. I've read that any exercise at this point will deplete your glycogen stores? At this point start eating nothing. Play Donkey Kong for 6 hours. You do not get past level 3. Realize you are, in fact, a "loser". Morning of Comp: eat a carb , I'm thinking(no you're not)? Prepare to get fallen on and defeated over and over again. this thread shows how rude and misinformed some people are. Go ask your moms to reteach you some etiquette. All I asked was for some opinions. Misinformed? Only one of us has been to a competition. Trust me, you won't do that great, and some one will fall on you. Save the training regimen for later when you know what you need to do. Just have fun. I won't do that great? You're the one that is misinformed. & Nice profile you got there. V4 and 5.10-5.11a? What a laugh. Wanna compete against me and see if I won't do that great?
Sure. But we have to compete outdoors. What does onsighting V4's in the wild translate to in the gym anyway?
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johnwesely
Feb 26, 2010, 8:34 PM
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PlasticHead wrote: I won't do that great? You're the one that is misinformed. & Nice profile you got there. V4 and 5.10-5.11a? What a laugh. Wanna compete against me and see if I won't do that great?
Yet you still have not accepted my invite to come climb at the crag I am developing. I just put up a short new route. It is about 13d/14a. It is 8 feet of v10 sandwiched between 10 feet of v8 and 15 feet of v6 with not rests. I use it as my warm up.
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PlasticHead
Feb 26, 2010, 8:38 PM
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johnwesely wrote: PlasticHead wrote: I won't do that great? You're the one that is misinformed. & Nice profile you got there. V4 and 5.10-5.11a? What a laugh. Wanna compete against me and see if I won't do that great? Yet you still have not accepted my invite to come climb at the crag I am developing. I just put up a short new route. It is about 13d/14a. It is 8 feet of v10 sandwiched between 10 feet of v8 and 15 feet of v6 with not rests. I use it as my warm up.
Yet you still have not told me where it is. I'd love to see it and try it.
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gmggg
Feb 26, 2010, 8:43 PM
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PlasticHead wrote: johnwesely wrote: PlasticHead wrote: I won't do that great? You're the one that is misinformed. & Nice profile you got there. V4 and 5.10-5.11a? What a laugh. Wanna compete against me and see if I won't do that great? Yet you still have not accepted my invite to come climb at the crag I am developing. I just put up a short new route. It is about 13d/14a. It is 8 feet of v10 sandwiched between 10 feet of v8 and 15 feet of v6 with not rests. I use it as my warm up. Yet you still have not told me where it is. I'd love to see it and try it. 
Seriously though... Good luck with the competition. It can be a lot of fun. Even if you do suck it up you still will probably get a chalk bag - or other shwag - and some pizza.
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glahhg
Feb 26, 2010, 8:48 PM
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marc801 wrote: PlasticHead wrote: All I asked was for some opinions. That's exactly what you got. Don't cry if someone thinks you're a moron, in their opinion.
You are a douchebag.
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glahhg
Feb 26, 2010, 8:49 PM
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gmggg wrote: PlasticHead wrote: gmggg wrote: PlasticHead wrote: gmggg wrote: Here is a revision to your basic plan, I think it will work well for you... 1 week prior to competition: Discontinue strenuos excercise and start stretching and drinking plenty of water. Doing some light competitive eating, vomit, give up, and realize that you are not a "winner" 3 days prior: completely discontinue any exercise. I've read that any exercise at this point will deplete your glycogen stores? At this point start eating nothing. Play Donkey Kong for 6 hours. You do not get past level 3. Realize you are, in fact, a "loser". Morning of Comp: eat a carb , I'm thinking(no you're not)? Prepare to get fallen on and defeated over and over again. this thread shows how rude and misinformed some people are. Go ask your moms to reteach you some etiquette. All I asked was for some opinions. Misinformed? Only one of us has been to a competition. Trust me, you won't do that great, and some one will fall on you. Save the training regimen for later when you know what you need to do. Just have fun. I won't do that great? You're the one that is misinformed. & Nice profile you got there. V4 and 5.10-5.11a? What a laugh. Wanna compete against me and see if I won't do that great? Sure. But we have to compete outdoors. What does onsighting V4's in the wild translate to in the gym anyway?
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PlasticHead
Feb 26, 2010, 9:00 PM
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Thank you. It should be alot of fun. Even If I play donkey kong for 6 hours realizing I'm a "loser"
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gmggg
Feb 26, 2010, 9:02 PM
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glahhg wrote: gmggg wrote: Sure. But we have to compete outdoors. What does onsighting V4's in the wild translate to in the gym anyway? Probably not much.
Sure feels that way sometimes.
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shimanilami
Feb 26, 2010, 9:16 PM
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I believe that Chris Sharma's pre-comp regimen is something along the lines of, "I smoke two joints ..."
It seems to have worked out well for him. And for me too (except for the competition part.)
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gmggg
Feb 26, 2010, 9:22 PM
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PlasticHead wrote: Thank you. It should be alot of fun. Even If I play donkey kong for 6 hours realizing I'm a "loser"
Have you ever tried Donkey Kong? That game is hard. Almost everyone is a loser at it. And my advice was serious. I think it's important to realize that there is always someone better.
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