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p8ntballsk8r
May 24, 2010, 1:55 AM
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There is a route I'm projecting that has a 4ft roof on it. After clipping the bolt below the roof and then continuing the route, the rope rubs against an edge that is sharp. How would I extend this quickdraw placement so there would be both less rope drag and this sharp edge would not be a factor.
I'm planning on using a runner, but I'm not quite sure how one would set that up. Would it be: quickdraw into a bolt, runner into the quickdraw, then another quickdraw? Is there an easier way to do this that does not require two quickdraws? Also is this a safe way of handling the situation or is there a better way to go about it?
Finally, could accessory cord, say a prussik loop be used in place of a runner? Or would that be a bad idea?
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jt512
May 24, 2010, 2:06 AM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: I'm planning on using a runner, but I'm not quite sure how one would set that up. Would it be: quickdraw into a bolt, runner into the quickdraw, then another quickdraw? Is there an easier way to do this that does not require two quickdraws?
*facepalm*
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USnavy
May 24, 2010, 2:14 AM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: There is a route I'm projecting that has a 4ft roof on it. After clipping the bolt below the roof and then continuing the route, the rope rubs against an edge that is sharp. How would I extend this quickdraw placement so there would be both less rope drag and this sharp edge would not be a factor. I'm planning on using a runner, but I'm not quite sure how one would set that up. Would it be: quickdraw into a bolt, runner into the quickdraw, then another quickdraw? Is there an easier way to do this that does not require two quickdraws? Also is this a safe way of handling the situation or is there a better way to go about it? Finally, could accessory cord, say a prussik loop be used in place of a runner? Or would that be a bad idea?
What the hell, your leading something with a roof but you don’t know how to make a draw with a sling? Anyway you get a four foot sling, clip two biners to it. Clip one biner to the bolt, the other to the rope. That’s it. Think of it as a super quickdraw... Search the term "trad draw" and you will learn much Obi-Wan.
(This post was edited by USnavy on May 24, 2010, 2:16 AM)
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caughtinside
May 24, 2010, 2:26 AM
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USnavy wrote: p8ntballsk8r wrote: There is a route I'm projecting that has a 4ft roof on it. After clipping the bolt below the roof and then continuing the route, the rope rubs against an edge that is sharp. How would I extend this quickdraw placement so there would be both less rope drag and this sharp edge would not be a factor. I'm planning on using a runner, but I'm not quite sure how one would set that up. Would it be: quickdraw into a bolt, runner into the quickdraw, then another quickdraw? Is there an easier way to do this that does not require two quickdraws? Also is this a safe way of handling the situation or is there a better way to go about it? Finally, could accessory cord, say a prussik loop be used in place of a runner? Or would that be a bad idea? What the hell, your leading something with a roof but you don’t know how to make a draw with a sling? Anyway you get a four foot sling, clip two biners to it. Clip one biner to the bolt, the other to the rope. That’s it. Think of it as a super quickdraw... Search the term "trad draw" and you will learn much Obi-Wan.
Why would he need a trad draw? Dude is sport climbing. I'd go with a runner.
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USnavy
May 24, 2010, 2:33 AM
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caughtinside wrote: USnavy wrote: p8ntballsk8r wrote: There is a route I'm projecting that has a 4ft roof on it. After clipping the bolt below the roof and then continuing the route, the rope rubs against an edge that is sharp. How would I extend this quickdraw placement so there would be both less rope drag and this sharp edge would not be a factor. I'm planning on using a runner, but I'm not quite sure how one would set that up. Would it be: quickdraw into a bolt, runner into the quickdraw, then another quickdraw? Is there an easier way to do this that does not require two quickdraws? Also is this a safe way of handling the situation or is there a better way to go about it? Finally, could accessory cord, say a prussik loop be used in place of a runner? Or would that be a bad idea? What the hell, your leading something with a roof but you don’t know how to make a draw with a sling? Anyway you get a four foot sling, clip two biners to it. Clip one biner to the bolt, the other to the rope. That’s it. Think of it as a super quickdraw... Search the term "trad draw" and you will learn much Obi-Wan. Why would he need a trad draw? Dude is sport climbing. I'd go with a runner.
Trad draw, runner, whatever they are interchangeable terms. A two or four foot trad draw is a runner that has been collapsed to 1/3rd its size to be used as either a quickdraw or extended into a runner. So using other terminology, he needs a "runner" with two biners on it. He can throw it over his shoulder or colapse it into a trad draw and extend it when he clips it to the bolt. Either way, its the same thing.
(This post was edited by USnavy on May 24, 2010, 2:34 AM)
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bill413
May 24, 2010, 2:50 AM
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jt512 wrote: p8ntballsk8r wrote: I'm planning on using a runner, but I'm not quite sure how one would set that up. Would it be: quickdraw into a bolt, runner into the quickdraw, then another quickdraw? Is there an easier way to do this that does not require two quickdraws? *facepalm*
You're only reading this out of a morbid fascination to see where it will lead.
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angry
May 24, 2010, 2:59 AM
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W8 guys, don't be so harsh, don't h8. He only asked how 2 m8ke (apparently) a l0ng draw. It's not like he asked if paint and 8 make the same sound when said out loud.
To answer your question first I need you to perform a task.
Email me the codeword.
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karmiclimber
May 24, 2010, 5:53 AM
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angry wrote: W8 guys, don't be so harsh, don't h8. He only asked how 2 m8ke (apparently) a l0ng draw. It's not like he asked if paint and 8 make the same sound when said out loud. To answer your question first I need you to perform a task. Email me the codeword. In reply to: wait. Wait. I got this. "don't h8. Congratul8" ? No_ 3$&33ls too many. "flatul8"?
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I_do
May 24, 2010, 10:36 AM
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USnavy wrote: caughtinside wrote: USnavy wrote: p8ntballsk8r wrote: There is a route I'm projecting that has a 4ft roof on it. After clipping the bolt below the roof and then continuing the route, the rope rubs against an edge that is sharp. How would I extend this quickdraw placement so there would be both less rope drag and this sharp edge would not be a factor. I'm planning on using a runner, but I'm not quite sure how one would set that up. Would it be: quickdraw into a bolt, runner into the quickdraw, then another quickdraw? Is there an easier way to do this that does not require two quickdraws? Also is this a safe way of handling the situation or is there a better way to go about it? Finally, could accessory cord, say a prussik loop be used in place of a runner? Or would that be a bad idea? What the hell, your leading something with a roof but you don’t know how to make a draw with a sling? Anyway you get a four foot sling, clip two biners to it. Clip one biner to the bolt, the other to the rope. That’s it. Think of it as a super quickdraw... Search the term "trad draw" and you will learn much Obi-Wan. Why would he need a trad draw? Dude is sport climbing. I'd go with a runner. Trad draw, runner, whatever they are interchangeable terms. A two or four foot trad draw is a runner that has been collapsed to 1/3rd its size to be used as either a quickdraw or extended into a runner. So using other terminology, he needs a "runner" with two biners on it. He can throw it over his shoulder or colapse it into a trad draw and extend it when he clips it to the bolt. Either way, its the same thing.
Woosh
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KirbyC
May 24, 2010, 12:43 PM
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bro, just use the r0pe--tie a clove hitch to one of your gear loops, then tie another clove hitch to the bolt (around the bolt itself, NOT the hanger cause that will fray the sheeeth), then u don't need any draws or anything.
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i_h8_choss
May 24, 2010, 1:59 PM
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KirbyC wrote: bro, just use the r0pe--tie a clove hitch to one of your gear loops, then tie another clove hitch to the bolt (around the bolt itself, NOT the hanger cause that will fray the sheeeth), then u don't need any draws or anything.
what ^ ?
OPer needs an extendo. a.k.a a long runner draw.
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KirbyC
May 24, 2010, 4:03 PM
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i_h8_choss wrote: KirbyC wrote: bro, just use the r0pe--tie a clove hitch to one of your gear loops, then tie another clove hitch to the bolt (around the bolt itself, NOT the hanger cause that will fray the sheeeth), then u don't need any draws or anything. what ^ ? OPer needs an extendo. a.k.a a long runner draw.
no way he just needs to use the rope. instead of tying it to the gear loop you can also just do a few wraps around your neck or head. or just hang on to it. the only downside is you can only use one hand.
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bill413
May 24, 2010, 5:46 PM
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KirbyC wrote: i_h8_choss wrote: KirbyC wrote: bro, just use the r0pe--tie a clove hitch to one of your gear loops, then tie another clove hitch to the bolt (around the bolt itself, NOT the hanger cause that will fray the sheeeth), then u don't need any draws or anything. what ^ ? OPer needs an extendo. a.k.a a long runner draw. no way he just needs to use the rope. instead of tying it to the gear loop you can also just do a few wraps around your neck or head. or just hang on to it. the only downside is you can only use one hand.
The nice thing about this system is you can make the rope longer or shorter, depending on the needs of the climb.
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p8ntballsk8r
May 24, 2010, 6:02 PM
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Thanks to those who answered the question... it's unbelievable how many people on this site have nothing to do but flame.
Anyways, would it ever be acceptable to use cord like a prussik loop to extend this draw if this problem was not realized until the leader was already half way up the climb and only had a prussik loop? What would be the best thing to do in this situation?
Clearly it would have been better to scope out the route before climbing it and be prepared, but what is the alternative?
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acorneau
May 24, 2010, 6:44 PM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: Anyways, would it ever be acceptable to use cord like a prussik loop to extend this draw if this problem was not realized until the leader was already half way up the climb and only had a prussik loop?
Assuming the loop was substantial enough to take the load.
8mm cord is ~14kN, giving you about 21kN looped, which is just about the strength of a standard carabiner.
7mm is ~9kN, giving you about 13kN when looped.
6mm is ~7kN, giving you about 10kN when looped. (I personally wouldn't put too much faith in a 10kN sling holding a big whipper, but YMMV.)
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bill413
May 24, 2010, 7:00 PM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: Thanks to those who answered the question... it's unbelievable how many people on this site have nothing to do but flame. Anyways, would it ever be acceptable to use cord like a prussik loop to extend this draw if this problem was not realized until the leader was already half way up the climb and only had a prussik loop? What would be the best thing to do in this situation? Clearly it would have been better to scope out the route before climbing it and be prepared, but what is the alternative?
Don't go minimalist unless you already know the route. Carry a couple of extra draws.
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jt512
May 25, 2010, 12:24 AM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: Thanks to those who answered the question... it's unbelievable how many people on this site have nothing to do but flame.
No, what is unbelievable is twofold:
1. Given a shoulder-length sling and a set of quickdraws, you couldn't figure out how to make a long draw using just the sling and two biners; and
2. There were actually people on the site willing to pander to your stupidity.
In reply to: Anyways, would it ever be acceptable to use cord like a prussik loop to extend this draw if this problem was not realized until the leader was already half way up the climb and only had a prussik loop?
Standard 7-mm perlon cord is strong enough to be used as a runner. Other cord? Look up the rated strength and compare it with the strength of a quickdraw.
Edit: To your credit—and I'm serious—at least you've realized that l33t is not a "language" that educated English speakers use to discuss serious questions.
Edit 2: Basically GUed by acorneau.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on May 25, 2010, 12:29 AM)
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Neel
May 28, 2010, 2:31 AM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: Anyways, would it ever be acceptable to use cord like a prussik loop to extend this draw if this problem was not realized until the leader was already half way up the climb and only had a prussik loop? What would be the best thing to do in this situation? Clearly it would have been better to scope out the route before climbing it and be prepared, but what is the alternative?
Could always just link two quickdraws together. it's not the greatest idea, but it's also not the worst. I've seen it done by some pros, and they're always right :)
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p8ntballsk8r
May 28, 2010, 2:38 AM
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thanks. I went with a 48in (i believe) sling and two carabiners.
All my draws are 12 cm, I'm looking to get a few more so I can climb a 9 bolt route. The things I'm looking at are livewires, hotwires, or just using wiregate biners to connect a midsize sling so that I could use the sling for toproping or dasy chaining when not sport climbing.
what do you guys think?
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cush
May 28, 2010, 7:44 AM
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quickdraws are nice to have but for sport climbing i always keep 2 or 3 trad draws with me just in case i come across the exact situation you did. i really dont' get why all sport climbers don't have some.
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Neel
May 28, 2010, 1:05 PM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: thanks. I went with a 48in (i believe) sling and two carabiners. All my draws are 12 cm, I'm looking to get a few more so I can climb a 9 bolt route. The things I'm looking at are livewires, hotwires, or just using wiregate biners to connect a midsize sling so that I could use the sling for toproping or dasy chaining when not sport climbing. what do you guys think?
Trad Draws: http://www.climbing.com/...techtips/ttsport239/
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jt512
May 28, 2010, 4:38 PM
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cush wrote: quickdraws are nice to have but for sport climbing i always keep 2 or 3 trad draws with me just in case i come across the exact situation you did. i really dont' get why all sport climbers don't have some.
Normally, I'd rather chain together my regular draws. It's easier to clip than a "trad draw."
Jay
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climb4free
May 28, 2010, 8:09 PM
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jt512 wrote: cush wrote: quickdraws are nice to have but for sport climbing i always keep 2 or 3 trad draws with me just in case i come across the exact situation you did. i really dont' get why all sport climbers don't have some. Normally, I'd rather chain together my regular draws. It's easier to clip than a "trad draw." Jay
Yes, chain them.
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