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adatesman
Apr 11, 2010, 1:10 AM
Post #826 of 883
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Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479
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zxcv
Apr 11, 2010, 2:42 AM
Post #827 of 883
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Registered: Feb 1, 2006
Posts: 96
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Aric and Joe,
I took and posted the pictures of the Osprey anchor attempt on the NJCC board, and know the party who made the attempt (incidentally, the same person who placed the Witches and Hell and HW anchors…).
I fully appreciate and support the fact that both of you want to preserve a tradition of minimal impact and bold climbs at the Gap. I am perfectly content to let the cliffs be what they are and not “bring them down to my level” by adding bolts… even though that would open up many, many more routes for myself.
Here is my primary concern: though I believe that the popularity of Gap climbing waxed a decade ago, often one consequence of a new guidebook is increased traffic. The relatively undeveloped character of the Gap seems to entice people to do as they please in the name of “development”. Whether it is bolts, denuding a cliff face of all vegetation, or unnecessarily widening the cliff base trail, people seem to simply make what alterations they desire. I think this is always done with the best of intentions, but the fact remains that the unregulated atmosphere has lead to the issues already cited (bolted 5.4s, bad anchors, etc). Also, I find it odd that some behavior that is taboo elsewhere in the park (cutting vegetation, making trails) is overlooked at the cliffs. Perhaps this is intentional by the park… I don’t know.
The potential for increased traffic that may result from the new guide, I think, necessitates a more coherent set of guidelines on permissible behavior at the Gap. Unfortunately, there is no longer a dedicated climbing ranger, and the park is a very difficult entity with which to communicate. Aside from the falcon closures, the park has been largely hands off. Though I am sure climbers appreciate this, with increased traffic will come increased impact. There are many beautiful blank faces that, with a line of bolts, would make superb sport climbs. Without some kind of coherent policy and understanding between the park and climbers, there is a heightened potential that more sport routes will appear.
I will pursue this with the park, but wanted to bring this up publicly before doing so as many locals are often more informed than I on these topics and I do not want to be working at cross purposes.
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roclimb
Apr 18, 2010, 11:16 PM
Post #828 of 883
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Registered: Nov 27, 2001
Posts: 452
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To answer the question about the fixed anchors. I spoke with two rangers several years back who stated that it would be better to have some of the really bad tree anchors replaced with bolts if this were on popular routes. The park gave myself and a few other climbers who asked them permission to place some bolted anchors. That being said we never actually placed any at that time because traffic really died down at the gap and I stopped climbing there regularly.
Several climbers later returned and placed some anchors on their own accord without any formal permission. One, I was told, was due to nesting falcons at the time; however, I was not present when it was placed, just got the info from the bolters.
Several NJ climbers feel that no one should place fixed anchors or bolts at the gap. So the problems are really more with climbers themselves and not so much the park, who has know idea that bolts are even up there--except maybe for the crappy retrobolting of the trad route after practice face.
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njgooch
May 4, 2010, 8:09 PM
Post #829 of 883
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Registered: Jul 5, 2004
Posts: 1
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Hey guys, I work shift work and am often available to
climb during the day both weekdays and weekends. My previous climbing partner bailed and moved to Colorado so I'm looking for people to climb with specifically at the Ralph Stover High Rocks area. Hit me up if you're interested and please add the email address below to the PA Climbers Group. Thanks.
JSchili@comcast.net
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rocksomerocks
May 5, 2010, 2:05 AM
Post #830 of 883
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Registered: Jan 11, 2009
Posts: 28
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going to climb in just about 4 hours from now a annapolis rocks in MD just close to green brier park.any one care to jone me its a long walk so iam starting at 3am so as to beat the sun and the heat with all my gear i well make it at first light. well post pics.on this site and full ones on photobucket.if i can rember how.
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joeforte
May 5, 2010, 2:14 AM
Post #831 of 883
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Registered: May 9, 2005
Posts: 1093
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Wow, alpine start in MD. That's hardcore man. I'm not poking fun either... I've done similar things in PA for similar reasons! (Climbed ice above a highway at 3am to avoid rush hour traffic below)
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rocksomerocks
May 5, 2010, 2:29 AM
Post #832 of 883
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Registered: Jan 11, 2009
Posts: 28
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eating now not going to sleep to pumped up.
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rocksomerocks
May 5, 2010, 2:37 AM
Post #833 of 883
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Registered: Jan 11, 2009
Posts: 28
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what with the time on the post they are way off.3hour or more?????
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rocksomerocks
May 6, 2010, 5:46 PM
Post #834 of 883
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Registered: Jan 11, 2009
Posts: 28
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I'am back post pics and video on photobucket at or under HenryFord1971.can't do it on here always have to resize no thanks takes to much from pics.
(This post was edited by rocksomerocks on May 6, 2010, 5:48 PM)
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rocksomerocks
May 6, 2010, 7:56 PM
Post #835 of 883
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Registered: Jan 11, 2009
Posts: 28
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pics are up on photo bucket.I have more pics and video.just let me know if you want them to be posted.
(This post was edited by rocksomerocks on May 6, 2010, 8:12 PM)
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Controlledfreefall
May 28, 2010, 9:49 AM
Post #836 of 883
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Registered: Jul 5, 2007
Posts: 9
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Does anyone have any places to TR and Lead In South Centeral PA I live Between Reading-Harrisburg, Pine Grove-Lancaster the closer the better please help me find a place to climb
Thanks
Rob
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joeforte
May 28, 2010, 12:22 PM
Post #837 of 883
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Registered: May 9, 2005
Posts: 1093
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The central PA guidebook lists a whole bunch of areas near you for toproping and leading. Check out www.bluebiner.com for a copy.
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holayter
May 29, 2010, 12:13 AM
Post #838 of 883
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Registered: Mar 24, 2010
Posts: 1
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Looking for the same beta- let me know if you find any good information - maybe we will see you out there.
Thanks
Rian
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cwo2
May 30, 2010, 2:32 PM
Post #839 of 883
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Registered: Jul 9, 2007
Posts: 50
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Chickies Rock, along the Susquehanna between Lancaster & York, takes gear & has some of the longest topropes in the area.
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REAL
Jun 3, 2010, 6:00 AM
Post #840 of 883
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Registered: May 13, 2009
Posts: 90
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Is there a MAP or a BOOK for NW PA routes anywhere that anyone knows about? I am in Detroit and have been going to PA since I was born. I have property between Warren and Franklin and would love to find climbing anywhere near there, or on the way in.
Any tips are greatly appreciated.
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rockrat512
Jun 13, 2010, 12:16 PM
Post #841 of 883
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Registered: Jan 26, 2003
Posts: 34
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http://www.flyingnutmuncher.com/
see if Dana will give ya any beta
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notapplicable
Jun 21, 2010, 10:18 PM
Post #842 of 883
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771
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DOUBLE POST!
I'm going to be in Reading thru the weekend and plan on doing some climbing in the evenings and possibly all day Sat. if anyone is interested.
Birdsboro, Chickies, Phili Gym, whatever...
DON'T BE LAZY!
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rocksomerocks
Jul 26, 2010, 12:25 PM
Post #844 of 883
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Registered: Jan 11, 2009
Posts: 28
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going climbing 7/29/10 B.B.P.6:00AM to ????????Mercersburg PA if any one interested let me know.if weather permits if not next day.
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rocksomerocks
Aug 2, 2010, 12:19 AM
Post #845 of 883
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Registered: Jan 11, 2009
Posts: 28
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had a good day took first time climber and he did ok for his first time.
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rocksomerocks
Aug 7, 2010, 2:27 AM
Post #846 of 883
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Registered: Jan 11, 2009
Posts: 28
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rocking again tomorrow his time white rock Saturday 8/07/10 maybe see someone their.
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clmbrdancer
Aug 12, 2010, 8:54 PM
Post #847 of 883
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
Posts: 80
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Hey All.
I'm visiting a friend here in Hershey for a few days before making my way back home. I've been climbing & mtn biking in New England area and would enjoy sampling some PA rock.
I've got a full trad and sport rack, ropes, etc. When I was not living in the flatlands of NC, I could sport 12, trad 11, I enjoy grade III/IV climbs, have a WFR and taken other outdoor courses. I'm currently comfortable on 5.9ish trad and 10 sport.
If you're free Friday the 12th of August, please send me a PM. I'll trad or sport within about 1-2 hours of Hershey. Since I don't know the crags or have guidebook, I prefer to climb with people who have experience. I don't care what degree of difficulty, as if I'm climbing, I'll be having fun!
Best,
Brad
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Uree
Aug 23, 2010, 12:46 AM
Post #848 of 883
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Registered: Aug 22, 2010
Posts: 2
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Hi everyone!
Im from Catalunya, in Spain, and I happen to be living near Pittsburgh for the next 6 months.
So, since staying out of the rock for 6 months is absolutely not an option, Im looking for a partner in the Pittsburgh area.
More concretely, I am living in Scottdale but I do have a car at my disposal and I do not mind to drive it for a while to reach you.
Although I feel very interested on bouldering, Im mostly into sport. I can lead 11a and the project I was working on back in Spain is 11d.
Besides all that, Im open to spend a day on the rock with anyone, at any discipline and climbing any difficulty level.
Also, if you go to any climbing gym around I would surely appreciate much info about it.
I havent been able to bring much material; I do have my climbing shoes and harness, but no belaying system ropes nor draws.
Please contact me by mail at: oriolsoriano(at)gmail(dot)com
Thanks!
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dontfall
Sep 12, 2010, 3:43 AM
Post #849 of 883
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Registered: Mar 31, 2003
Posts: 2798
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I climbed for the first time in several years today!!! The gear still fits and I still have the feel for things. After the guys at North Summit ok'd me and said I was on track, I went at it.
I am looking to get over to the gym in Wilkes Barre this week. Any takers? Lemme know.
Chris
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gblauer
Moderator
Sep 12, 2010, 12:39 PM
Post #850 of 883
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Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
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4th Annual Birdsboro CLimb and Clean
All, please join us for the climb and clean at Birdsboro quarry on September 25th/26th. Camping starts on Friday night. We will be cleaning and climbing all day on Saturday. Followed by a community dinner with entertainment and raffle (lots of great gear) on Saturday night at the Pavillion in Rustic Park. Sunday we will resume climbing and finish up any project work.
For those of you with non climbing friends, we will have equipment, ropes, belayers and we will set up some TRs.
All proceeds from the dinner and raffle go to cliff maintenance.
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