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oklahoma
Jun 18, 2010, 5:14 AM
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And there in lies why people were hesitant to speak up about wyoming. It's all a matter of opinion I guess.
I can understand Ten sleep as your top choice. It's great climbing. I prefer Sinks personally though cause I've always had a better time there. I've only been to Ten Sleep two or three times though so maybe if I was there more it'd be different. Lander is a cool town, Wild Iris is just next door with amazing bouldering and Sinks has steep, fun climbs.
I've always had a great time in the winds and would recommend it to anybody. The majority of the times I've been out there I didn't see a soul other than my partner. I haven't been out there in 2 years so maybe it's changed.
And the tower is closed a month out of an already short season. Come down south and climb in June then tell me Eastern Wyoming is too hot to climb. Granted, I'm a pussy on the flip side of that in the winter
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petsfed
Jun 18, 2010, 7:24 AM
Post #77 of 102
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oklahoma wrote: And there in lies why people were hesitant to speak up about wyoming. It's all a matter of opinion I guess.
You have a point. I mean, it'd be pretty cut and dried if there's only one standout climbing area in the state. But Wyoming has 6 or 7, at least, and it all depends on what kind of climbing you want to do. If you slavishly follow the guidebook, the Winds really aren't for you. If you want a lot of steep climbing, Sinks won't really do it for you, nor will Ten Sleep, but Wild Iris will be right up your alley. We've got world class ice in Cody.
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wmfork
Jun 18, 2010, 5:21 PM
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petsfed wrote: We've got world class ice in Cody. |
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oklahoma
Jun 18, 2010, 9:36 PM
Post #79 of 102
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In reply to: If you slavishly follow the guidebook. In reply to: And where's the fun in that? I didn't see anybody speaking up about Arkansas either. The state is littered with random walls and clusters of boulders but a few big ones stand out when I think of Arkansas: 1.) Horseshoe Canyon is a no brainer. Mostly sport but does have a lot of fun bouldering and a handful of trad. 2.) Sam's Throne. Trad. 3.) A little tougher because there are alot of areas that could fill the 3 spot, (Cave Creek, Fern Gulley, Fountain Red) Honestly they are all pretty much the same, all solid Sandstone Sport climbing with tons of potential
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climb4free
Jun 19, 2010, 8:31 PM
Post #80 of 102
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This is great. Any news from: michigan, louisiana, indiana?
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Alphaboth
Jun 19, 2010, 9:27 PM
Post #81 of 102
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yeah man, wy has to be the best state to climb in the summer. I haven't even been to devil's tower, freemont caynon, wild iris or ten sleep, or the winds. The best trad routes i've done has been in the tetons and sinks caynon is a great sport place. Even the sport crags outside of jackson are pretty sweet.
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Mellow
Jun 19, 2010, 11:10 PM
Post #82 of 102
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Grew up in TX:
*Trad: Agree with acorneau on E Rock
*Sport: Not sure *personally* btw Greenbelt or Reimer's
*Bouldering: Don't really boulder, but CW is Hueco Tanks.
Been living in CT for a while now, getting out about once a week all year for 3 years now (might slack to every other week in winter - I don't really actually keep track):
Trad: CW is Ragged Mtn. My personal favorite is East Peak though.
Sport: I recognize I'm a visitor and will never quite get the periodic internecine warfare over bolts here (don't shoot the messenger if what follows, although this is old news, is new to you, fellow CT trad/toprope friends): The only wall I've personally been to that's bolted sport is Firewall at Bradley Mountain. I hear of other project areas ongoing elsewhere, but like I said, I'm staying out of that fight.
Bouldering: again, I don't have a clue - we'll see if anyone who really knows chimes in.
Edit: acorneAu - doh!
(This post was edited by Mellow on Jun 19, 2010, 11:11 PM)
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Gmburns2000
Jun 20, 2010, 1:13 AM
Post #83 of 102
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Maine
Trad: Acadia
Sport: Shag Crag
Bouldering: wait, people actually do that?!?!
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belikerk
Jun 20, 2010, 2:55 AM
Post #85 of 102
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I'm surprised no one has mentioned utah yet since it has such an abundance of climbing. I'm just throwing out a few I believe are good spots.
Utah:
American Fork canyon - sport
Indian creek - trad
little cottonwood - bouldering
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justroberto
Jun 20, 2010, 5:33 AM
Post #86 of 102
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belikerk wrote: Indian creek - trad
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camhead
Jun 20, 2010, 2:38 PM
Post #87 of 102
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belikerk wrote: I'm surprised no one has mentioned utah yet since it has such an abundance of climbing. I'm just throwing out a few I believe are good spots. Utah: American Fork canyon - sport Indian creek - trad little cottonwood - bouldering
American Fork is nowhere near the top sport climbing destination in UT. I would say that, putting together the best of wide variety of ratings, quantity of routes, nice atmosphere, and accessibility, Maple Canyon is the clear winner. Not all that diverse, but still, I think that more out-of-staters make the trip there than to any other sport destination in UT.
Joe's Valley would also beat out LCC for bouldering, though I have not done much at either of those areas.
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wmfork
Jun 21, 2010, 1:46 AM
Post #88 of 102
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camhead wrote: Not all that diverse |
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blkela
Jun 22, 2010, 5:30 AM
Post #89 of 102
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I would have to agree with vegastradguy on Red Rock on it being the most climbed, but I would have to say that Lamoille Canyon in the Ruby Mts. is a better place to climb. There is about 7 miles of glacial cut granite. It has climbing there all year round, as long as you like ice climbing too. In the summer and fall its the three main types if climbing; trad, sport, and bouldering. It has grades from 5.6 to 5.14. I like it mostly 'cause it's a local yocal area, not a lot of congestion like the valley or other major climbing destinations.
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climbingaz
Jun 22, 2010, 8:12 PM
Post #90 of 102
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sonso45 wrote: AZ has many areas but one in particular is a must do for trad: Cochise. Sport climbng is very popular in Jacks Canyon but other areas abound. It is very easy to get to if driving tween Cali/Nev and the east along I-40. Although mired in controversy, Queen Creek has a wealth of trad, sport and bouldering all within an hour or so of Phoenix.
+1 Cochise for trad, Jacks for sport
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WordsVerbatim
Jun 22, 2010, 10:05 PM
Post #91 of 102
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I've got a couple for Alabama.
Horse Pens 40:
- Style(s): Bouldering
- Why: It's absolutely beautiful there. It's dominated by mostly sloper problems, but there are a few crimpy ones as well. I've really enjoyed my days there. The property is privately owned, so it's kept up very well (unlike some other places I've been to where people have spray-painted the rock  ).
Sand Rock/Cherokee Rock Village:
- Style(s): Trad, Sport, Toprope, Bouldering
- Why: There are a ton of different climbs, depending on your preference. Also, there are plenty of routes to match all skill levels, so there's something for everyone.
(This post was edited by WordsVerbatim on Jun 22, 2010, 10:05 PM)
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karmiclimber
Jun 22, 2010, 10:30 PM
Post #92 of 102
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I live in Ohio. There isn't one. Cheers!
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therat
Jun 22, 2010, 11:55 PM
Post #93 of 102
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oklahoma wrote: And there in lies why people were hesitant to speak up about wyoming. It's all a matter of opinion I guess. I can understand Ten sleep as your top choice. It's great climbing. I prefer Sinks personally though cause I've always had a better time there. I've only been to Ten Sleep two or three times though so maybe if I was there more it'd be different. Lander is a cool town, Wild Iris is just next door with amazing bouldering and Sinks has steep, fun climbs. I've always had a great time in the winds and would recommend it to anybody. The majority of the times I've been out there I didn't see a soul other than my partner. I haven't been out there in 2 years so maybe it's changed. And the tower is closed a month out of an already short season. Come down south and climb in June then tell me Eastern Wyoming is too hot to climb. Granted, I'm a pussy on the flip side of that in the winter
Had a GREAT day climbing at the Tower last night. Thank GOD so many people believe it's closed...
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oklahoma
Jun 23, 2010, 12:03 AM
Post #94 of 102
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We've already said it's not a mandatory closure. It's a recommended closure out of respect for the cultures that the month of June and the tower itself are religously significant. Climbing the tower this month could be compared to spitting on the holy cross. I'm sure your GOD you're thanking would appreciate that.
Basically, you're a dick.
(This post was edited by oklahoma on Jun 23, 2010, 12:04 AM)
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petsfed
Jun 23, 2010, 2:13 AM
Post #95 of 102
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oklahoma wrote: We've already said it's not a mandatory closure. It's a recommended closure out of respect for the cultures that the month of June and the tower itself are religously significant. Climbing the tower this month could be compared to spitting on the holy cross. I'm sure your GOD you're thanking would appreciate that. Basically, you're a dick.
I don't want to turn this into a debate about the closure, but I have very mixed feelings about it. Mostly because the prayer bundles stop about a hundred yards from the trail head. That's like stopping just inside of the gates at St. Peter's Square. Climbing can be deeply spiritual, and it confuses me that one flavor of spirituality is discouraged in favor of another, especially when there is clearly enough of that resource to go around.
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joeforte
Jun 23, 2010, 3:28 AM
Post #96 of 102
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synrock wrote: ConverseClimber wrote: Pennsylvania- uhhhhhh... Haycock for bouldering. Some very awesome climbs on rock that isnt found everywhere. Diabase (which is what your climbing on) can only be found in PA and South Africa. like, what? Ashboro NC is also a diabase area. This is a difficult choice as the bouldering areas in PA are amazing. While haycock may have the most problems - it also has the most problems (not a summer area, bad landings, difficult navigation). So I'd have to vote Ghost town over Haycock as a bouldering area - for the superior asthetics and amazing quality of the problems. However..... My vote for what is the best climbing area in PA and the one that people would have a reason to visit the state for - would be Hunter Rocks for the amazing rock quality and features. Perhaps the stickiest, coolest featured sandstone in the world. And Hunters has something no other climbing area in the country has - quality Font Circuits (minus the red and blue paint). Because of the Dresden-like mini-towers and convoluted nature of the sandstone formation you can literally climb for hours without ever touching the ground - only stopping every once in a while on top of a tower to admire the view. So if you are climbing addict and are comfortable soloing at around 5.8 - the hunter rock circuits have the longest continuous "fix" of fun moves on amazing rock anywhere. Bowers
Yeah, there are MANY diabase areas, but the TRIASSIC DIABASE at haycock is one of 3 types of triassic diabase found in PA, and the only other place in the world that it is found is in Africa (which is one of the ways they proved the continents were once attached to each other)
(This post was edited by joeforte on Jun 23, 2010, 3:33 AM)
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justroberto
Jun 23, 2010, 5:55 AM
Post #97 of 102
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joeforte wrote: ... (which is one of the ways they proved the continents were once attached to each other)
As a former Virginian, I'd say Old Rag is the tits on the VA circuit. As a current Texan, I can say that Enchanted Rock is more tits than Old Rag. Also, some of the kids in Austin claim that EPC is fundamentally Texas, but I'm fairly certain they all failed geography and Texas State History. As for Hueco, geographic boundaries and abysmal recreational user policies place it in Texas, but for all intents and purposes it's Mex/New Mexico.
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cfurman
Jun 23, 2010, 8:06 AM
Post #98 of 102
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nobody has listed CA yet? really?
Trad- Yos (valley and tuolumne), JT, Tahquitz and Suicide, Needles
Bouldering-Bishop
Sport- Owens River George
There are many more...
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northfacejmb
Jun 23, 2010, 1:04 PM
Post #99 of 102
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+1
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therat
Jun 23, 2010, 4:43 PM
Post #100 of 102
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oklahoma wrote: We've already said it's not a mandatory closure. It's a recommended closure out of respect for the cultures that the month of June and the tower itself are religously significant. Climbing the tower this month could be compared to spitting on the holy cross. I'm sure your GOD you're thanking would appreciate that. Basically, you're a dick.
Petsfed is right... this thread shouldn't be about the voluntary June Tower closure. And even though I took part in the planning process... listened to and believed in the "marketing" the Park Service ranted regarding "mutual respect" and "cross cultural education... helped clean up human feces off of picnic tables after one of only TWO native American gatherings since the CMP was implemented...
Oops... better get my dick off the soap box...
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