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johnwesely
Jul 16, 2010, 6:22 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: welle wrote: I think I saw you on one in one of your photos ;) It has it all - airy traverse, cool arete, clean face and a thin fingercrack. Also Dick Williams last summer favored one particular balancey face climb that's in the High E vicinity - he recommended it to a friend visiting from out of town. Does GGG in the Nears have 3 stars? I forget... but it has interesting moves and finishes with a great jug haul as well. I really didn't like Moonlight. Greg will vouch for me. Ursula? I never got on GGG. It seems like no matter how long the trip, you can never do everything. yeah, he felt a little uncomfortable was seriously going to fall on the crux. I never realized before then that the traverse was harder for taller people. 5.6+++++ not a good place to fall either. gear isn't that great just before the traverse.
I noticed that.
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welle
Jul 16, 2010, 6:44 PM
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johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: welle wrote: I think I saw you on one in one of your photos ;) It has it all - airy traverse, cool arete, clean face and a thin fingercrack. Also Dick Williams last summer favored one particular balancey face climb that's in the High E vicinity - he recommended it to a friend visiting from out of town. Does GGG in the Nears have 3 stars? I forget... but it has interesting moves and finishes with a great jug haul as well. I really didn't like Moonlight. Greg will vouch for me. Ursula? I never got on GGG. It seems like no matter how long the trip, you can never do everything. yeah, he felt a little uncomfortable was seriously going to fall on the crux. I never realized before then that the traverse was harder for taller people. 5.6+++++ not a good place to fall either. gear isn't that great just before the traverse. I noticed that.
true dat. to me the crux was the runout arete after the traverse and tiny fingerlocks with your feet smearing on blank face! The 5.6 Dick Williams recommended to my friend is "The Last will be first". I'm with you on High E though - something about that steep and exposed wall on incut but overchalked greasy jugs cause a mild pump to scale up the pucker factor!
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johnwesely
Jul 16, 2010, 6:47 PM
Post #78 of 241
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welle wrote: johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: welle wrote: I think I saw you on one in one of your photos ;) It has it all - airy traverse, cool arete, clean face and a thin fingercrack. Also Dick Williams last summer favored one particular balancey face climb that's in the High E vicinity - he recommended it to a friend visiting from out of town. Does GGG in the Nears have 3 stars? I forget... but it has interesting moves and finishes with a great jug haul as well. I really didn't like Moonlight. Greg will vouch for me. Ursula? I never got on GGG. It seems like no matter how long the trip, you can never do everything. yeah, he felt a little uncomfortable was seriously going to fall on the crux. I never realized before then that the traverse was harder for taller people. 5.6+++++ not a good place to fall either. gear isn't that great just before the traverse. I noticed that. true dat. to me the crux was the runout arete after the traverse and tiny fingerlocks with your feet smearing on blank face! The 5.6 Dick Williams recommended to my friend is "The Last will be first". I'm with you on High E though - something about that steep and exposed wall on incut but overchalked greasy jugs cause a mild pump to scale up the pucker factor!
Now you spoiled it. You were being so cryptic before.
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welle
Jul 16, 2010, 7:00 PM
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I know, sorry! That's because at first I thought 3 stars were meant to keep tourists away from good climbs. But thinking back, not many would enjoy these climbs since they're a tad harder and/or more sustained. People like getting on climbs with short cruxes - the way everyone loves Arrow...
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rangerrob
Jul 17, 2010, 12:47 AM
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Best 5.6 in the Gunks that doesn't have 3 stars.......The Last Shall Be First.
The hardest 5.6 in the Gunks......Wisecrack.
Moonlight blows away High E or Shockleys's. The best 5.6 overall.........Madame G's
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johnwesely
Jul 17, 2010, 1:30 AM
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What exactly makes moonlight better than High E?
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losbill
Jul 18, 2010, 2:50 AM
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What the hell?!?!?! Gail, weren't you feeding the poor boy?!?!?! John if I had known you were such on short rations Bob and I would have invited you out to dinner and filled you up the Saturday we met you at the base of CCK. Very much enjoying the write ups. Fun to compare and contrast them after my exposure to your dry wit and "insightful" commentary on various issues over at the Bonnie's Roof area.
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gblauer
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Jul 18, 2010, 4:28 AM
Post #83 of 241
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losbill wrote: What the hell?!?!?! Gail, weren't you feeding the poor boy?!?!?!
Bill, of course we fed the poor boy! We even showered him too! And let him do his laundry. Alas, his nutrition was awful when I was not around. LIttle Debbie peanut butter snack cakes, pudding cups; high calorie. empty calorie snacks. Without a cooler he had to stick to non perishable foods. He claims he gained weight on the trip (muscle), that may be true, but I sure didn't see it. He was skinny as a rail when he left.
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charley
Jul 18, 2010, 1:11 PM
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One of the best tr's I have read here. Good writing and good story. Congrats on the growth and getting back to climbing rock. I can't wait for more.
(This post was edited by charley on Jul 18, 2010, 1:13 PM)
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johnwesely
Jul 18, 2010, 1:43 PM
Post #85 of 241
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gblauer wrote: losbill wrote: What the hell?!?!?! Gail, weren't you feeding the poor boy?!?!?! Bill, of course we fed the poor boy! We even showered him too! And let him do his laundry. Alas, his nutrition was awful when I was not around. LIttle Debbie peanut butter snack cakes, pudding cups; high calorie. empty calorie snacks. Without a cooler he had to stick to non perishable foods. He claims he gained weight on the trip (muscle), that may be true, but I sure didn't see it. He was skinny as a rail when he left.
I gained almost 10 pounds during the trip. It is a medical fact.
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johnwesely
Jul 18, 2010, 1:43 PM
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charley wrote: One of the best tr's I have read here. Good writing and good story. Congrats on the growth and getting back to climbing rock. I can't wait for more.
Thank you.
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Gmburns2000
Jul 18, 2010, 2:11 PM
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johnwesely wrote: What exactly makes moonlight better than High E?
everything.
just sayin'
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johnwesely
Jul 18, 2010, 2:14 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: What exactly makes moonlight better than High E? everything. just sayin'
Maybe if you are 4 foot 2 inches.
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Gmburns2000
Jul 18, 2010, 4:02 PM
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johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: What exactly makes moonlight better than High E? everything. just sayin' Maybe if you are 4 foot 2 inches.
hey, that's 4 foot 6 inches to you buddy! 
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johnwesely
Jul 18, 2010, 4:08 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: What exactly makes moonlight better than High E? everything. just sayin' Maybe if you are 4 foot 2 inches. hey, that's 4 foot 6 inches to you buddy!
I really liked your last blog post, but if you keep exaggerating your height like that, I am going to have to change my mind.
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Gmburns2000
Jul 18, 2010, 5:00 PM
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johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: What exactly makes moonlight better than High E? everything. just sayin' Maybe if you are 4 foot 2 inches. hey, that's 4 foot 6 inches to you buddy! I really liked your last blog post, but if you keep exaggerating your height like that, I am going to have to change my mind.
you'd better watch it buddy. those georgian cliffs don't look nearly as stable as the Trapps once did, and we know how that ended up.
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johnwesely
Jul 18, 2010, 5:27 PM
Post #92 of 241
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Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: What exactly makes moonlight better than High E? everything. just sayin' Maybe if you are 4 foot 2 inches. hey, that's 4 foot 6 inches to you buddy! I really liked your last blog post, but if you keep exaggerating your height like that, I am going to have to change my mind. you'd better watch it buddy. those georgian cliffs don't look nearly as stable as the Trapps once did, and we know how that ended up.
Did you just one star blitz me?
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Gmburns2000
Jul 18, 2010, 6:27 PM
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johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: What exactly makes moonlight better than High E? everything. just sayin' Maybe if you are 4 foot 2 inches. hey, that's 4 foot 6 inches to you buddy! I really liked your last blog post, but if you keep exaggerating your height like that, I am going to have to change my mind. you'd better watch it buddy. those georgian cliffs don't look nearly as stable as the Trapps once did, and we know how that ended up. Did you just one star blitz me?
no, but I saw that and was afraid that you'd think it was me. it wasn't.
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johnwesely
Jul 18, 2010, 6:35 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: What exactly makes moonlight better than High E? everything. just sayin' Maybe if you are 4 foot 2 inches. hey, that's 4 foot 6 inches to you buddy! I really liked your last blog post, but if you keep exaggerating your height like that, I am going to have to change my mind. you'd better watch it buddy. those georgian cliffs don't look nearly as stable as the Trapps once did, and we know how that ended up. Did you just one star blitz me? no, but I saw that and was afraid that you'd think it was me. it wasn't.
It was probably climber photo bum. I one starred one of his pictures, and he sent me 3 pms telling me to change it. I changed it to a two star.
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Gmburns2000
Jul 18, 2010, 6:38 PM
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johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: johnwesely wrote: What exactly makes moonlight better than High E? everything. just sayin' Maybe if you are 4 foot 2 inches. hey, that's 4 foot 6 inches to you buddy! I really liked your last blog post, but if you keep exaggerating your height like that, I am going to have to change my mind. you'd better watch it buddy. those georgian cliffs don't look nearly as stable as the Trapps once did, and we know how that ended up. Did you just one star blitz me? no, but I saw that and was afraid that you'd think it was me. it wasn't. It was probably climber photo bum. I one starred one of his pictures, and he sent me 3 pms telling me to change it. I changed it to a two star.
well, now you know your nemesis at least.
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sungam
Jul 18, 2010, 7:39 PM
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John. Get a jorb, work fuck-sick hours for 2 weeks, tell them to fuck off then get your ass to the RED!
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johnwesely
Jul 18, 2010, 7:46 PM
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sungam wrote: John. Get a jorb, work fuck-sick hours for 2 weeks, tell them to fuck off then get your ass to the RED!
By the time I got that done, I wouldn't have any more time to go to the Red. The Red is too hot now anyways. There are some north facing granite monsters that are in my sights though. We will see.
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sungam
Jul 19, 2010, 8:24 AM
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johnwesely wrote: sungam wrote: John. Get a jorb, work fuck-sick hours for 2 weeks, tell them to fuck off then get your ass to the RED! By the time I got that done, I wouldn't have any more time to go to the Red. The Red is too hot now anyways. There are some north facing granite monsters that are in my sights though. We will see.
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johnwesely
Jul 19, 2010, 2:21 PM
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sungam wrote: johnwesely wrote: sungam wrote: John. Get a jorb, work fuck-sick hours for 2 weeks, tell them to fuck off then get your ass to the RED! By the time I got that done, I wouldn't have any more time to go to the Red. The Red is too hot now anyways. There are some north facing granite monsters that are in my sights though. We will see. Dooettttttttttttttt.
My financial woes are over. My father paid back some of the money he owed me. Time to rock climb.
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boymeetsrock
Jul 19, 2010, 2:41 PM
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Who's sister did you screw to get one starred on every one of your posts?
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