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ensonik
Sep 9, 2010, 12:27 AM
Post #101 of 149
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camhead wrote: It's even better to imagine all of the posts as being spoken in a really nasally, loud, Brooklyn Jewish accent.
Like this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LxbMvv462_0
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TradEddie
Sep 9, 2010, 1:00 AM
Post #102 of 149
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curt wrote: TradEddie wrote: camhead wrote: brianri wrote: The accepted etiquette at the Gunks has always been you don't top-rope trad lines or you at least get out of the way of trad climbers, especially on super popular three star trad climbs like Frogs Head. Really? I know that everyone says that, and that the guidebook says that, Can I again ask, what guidebook do you think says that? TE The Williams guidebooks clearly say that lead climbers have priority over top-ropers. Quit trying to beat a minor nuance to death. Curt
I try to stop, but I can't. You may think it says that, but please read it again.
His Nears/Millbrook guide says [if parties arrive on the scene simultaneously] "...custom dictates that the party that plans to lead has the right to go first" and later "If you have led a climb to setup a toprope for your friends, please have the courtesy to not hog or tie up this climb for too long"
a) This implies that it it acceptable to TR a lead route.
b) It does not say it is acceptable for a leader to take over a climb being toproped.
If earlier books say differently, please correct me.
TE
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dr_feelgood
Sep 9, 2010, 1:23 AM
Post #103 of 149
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camhead wrote: brianri wrote: The accepted etiquette at the Gunks has always been you don't top-rope trad lines or you at least get out of the way of trad climbers, especially on super popular three star trad climbs like Frogs Head. Really? I know that everyone says that, and that the guidebook says that, but every trip I've been to at the Gunks, topropes are strung like fucking Christmas Tree decorations on the first pitches of popular climbs, and often stay there all day. Go to the McCarthy Wall on any weekend and see how many people are actually leading Co-Ex or Graveyard Shift.
I seem to remember a certain party setting a TR on CoEx...
Just sayin'
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curt
Sep 9, 2010, 1:33 AM
Post #104 of 149
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TradEddie wrote: curt wrote: The Williams guidebooks clearly say that lead climbers have priority over top-ropers... Curt ...You may think it says that, but please read it again. His Nears/Millbrook guide says [if parties arrive on the scene simultaneously] "...custom dictates that the party that plans to lead has the right to go first..."
And the contradiction here is what again?
Curt
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camhead
Sep 9, 2010, 2:59 AM
Post #108 of 149
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blueeyedclimber wrote: camhead wrote: Go to the McCarthy Wall on any weekend and see how many people are actually leading Co-Ex or Graveyard Shift. Onsighted both of them. 
Awesome. I only onsighted Co-Ex. TR'd Graveyard./spray!
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wonderwoman
Sep 9, 2010, 3:18 AM
Post #109 of 149
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devkrev wrote: dingus wrote: This thread helps me appreciate what I have in life. Thanks for that. DMT The Dacks were amazing this weekend, Poke-O handed me my ass.
Daggnabbit! I thought it rained there this weekend. We headed to the gunks instead.
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mr.tastycakes
Sep 9, 2010, 1:45 PM
Post #110 of 149
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Ugh, etiquette threads are always weak sauce. It always boils down to, "Don't you think those other guys are dicks?!? Don't I have the right to be offended?"
We can make conjectures about who deserves what portion of the blame, but none of us will know without having actually watched the events unfold.
At the end of it all, your party finished frog's head, the other party went on to climb maria. No one was hurt or put in a dangerous postion. All is well in the world. Climb on.
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rgold
Sep 9, 2010, 3:13 PM
Post #111 of 149
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I agree. Far too much ado about parties behaving not very nicely.
For those of you who I haven't climbed at the Gunks, it may be interesting and somewhat of a relief to hear that I climbed on Sunday and Monday of Labor Day and hardly saw other parties. The only ones I did see were walking by at the base of the crag, there was essentially no time on a route when there was even another party in sight anywhere. And we did this without going to any of the wonderful but more remote locations the Gunks offers.
Crowds are predictable in certain regions. If you are going to go there anyway, better be prepared for the behaviors crowding induces.
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dingus
Sep 9, 2010, 3:15 PM
Post #112 of 149
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A new market for tasers emerges. The UberTaser.
DMT
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losbill
Sep 9, 2010, 3:49 PM
Post #113 of 149
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dingus wrote: Of course I've climbed the Gunks Bill. Whaddaya think I'm NEW?
Yeah! All order is restored in the universe!!!
WW - I am very seriously shocked!!! Potty mouth? Once again my climbing world is shaken! And it wasn't even an offwidth!! --- Bill
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Arrogant_Bastard
Sep 9, 2010, 3:53 PM
Post #114 of 149
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mr.tastycakes wrote: Ugh, etiquette threads are always weak sauce. It always boils down to, "Don't you think those other guys are dicks?!? Don't I have the right to be offended?"
Yes, and "which _____ should I buy" threads are pointless. Spraying threads are nauseating. And threads about which knot to use for two ropes isn't teaching me anything new. It's the internet, 99% of what's posted has either been done before or serves no purpose. I find it amusing how many people here chime in to say that participating in this thread is beneath them.
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TradEddie
Sep 9, 2010, 7:00 PM
Post #115 of 149
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caughtinside wrote: Since when has it been ok to TR the first pitch of a multipitch that people regularly climb to the top? I don't know if I've ever seen that here.
In my opinion, since always. As long as you get there first, and don't hog the route for too long. In the case of the OP, they got there first, they actually led the route, and were apparently not taking too long.
If you have plans to lead a popular route on the weekend at the Gunks, get up a little earlier, 8am at the stairmaster will get you on just about anything. Don't go claiming that some imaginary ethic or guidebook says that just because you are leading you can claim a route people are already climbing.
Better yet, climb weekdays, that's my plan tomorrow.
Horse is dead, sorry.
TE
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gmggg
Sep 9, 2010, 7:43 PM
Post #116 of 149
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Hmm.. No one has brought up the real party to blame. The Mohonk Preserve. They need to get out there and set some more routes for you. And restock the probars in the lobby.
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lunchbag
Sep 9, 2010, 8:42 PM
Post #117 of 149
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Typical holiday BS at the Gunks. Heard a loud argument with threats of violence in the vicinity of CCK on Labor Day. Please be respectful and bring a positive attitude. Avoid the crowds by seeking out one of the many obscure no-star routes. Your likely to have a much more pleasant experience provided some mad person is not shouting F-bombs!
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bill413
Sep 9, 2010, 10:16 PM
Post #119 of 149
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wonderwoman wrote: lunchbag wrote: Heard a loud argument with threats of violence in the vicinity of CCK on Labor Day. I'm sorry, I'll try to control myself in the future. (kidding, of course, although I did drop some F-Bombs on Sunday!  )
WW I don't care how hard you argue, CCK is NOT 5.5.
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wonderwoman
Sep 9, 2010, 11:37 PM
Post #120 of 149
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bill413 wrote: wonderwoman wrote: lunchbag wrote: Heard a loud argument with threats of violence in the vicinity of CCK on Labor Day. I'm sorry, I'll try to control myself in the future. (kidding, of course, although I did drop some F-Bombs on Sunday! ) WW I don't care how hard you argue, CCK is NOT 5.5.
Wanna fight about it?
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wonderwoman
Sep 9, 2010, 11:44 PM
Post #121 of 149
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losbill wrote: WW - I am very seriously shocked!!! Potty mouth? Once again my climbing world is shaken! And it wasn't even an offwidth!! --- Bill
Sorry to disappoint, Bill! You can take the gal out of the trailer park, but you can't take the trailer park out of the gal.
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cfnubbler
Sep 10, 2010, 12:17 AM
Post #122 of 149
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xtrmecat wrote: I travel to climb, a lot. Nowhere I have been is it even remotely acceptable(on this continent) to climb through another party without consent. Weaksauce for even asking in most circumstances on 2 pitch. Ratings, speed, lead vs TR, none of this matters anywhere I have been. I guess the euros do this semi regularly, and even they go to blows over it from time to time. Burly Bob
Try climbing in the Alps. They'll climb through without asking, clip your gear, step on your head, and no one will find it in the least bit odd.
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bill413
Sep 10, 2010, 12:47 AM
Post #123 of 149
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cfnubbler wrote: xtrmecat wrote: I travel to climb, a lot. Nowhere I have been is it even remotely acceptable (on this continent) to climb through another party without consent. Weaksauce for even asking in most circumstances on 2 pitch. Ratings, speed, lead vs TR, none of this matters anywhere I have been. I guess the euros do this semi regularly, and even they go to blows over it from time to time. Burly Bob Try climbing in the Alps. They'll climb through without asking, clip your gear, step on your head, and no one will find it in the least bit odd.
I believe xtremecat is located in the Americas.
(This post was edited by bill413 on Sep 10, 2010, 12:48 AM)
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Lazlo
Sep 10, 2010, 12:49 AM
Post #124 of 149
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One day my buddy and I headed to the local crag to see how many vertical feet we could climb in a day. Sooo, we started on the left and headed right.
There was a team of three (rare at this crag) and they were on the longest, most popular route. One climber was at the belay, one was belaying on the ground, and another was waiting (this one was cute).
We decided to climb through.
We asked permission from all three. We didn't even touch their anchor or gear.
Later, on another route, as we passed them again, I asked for the cute one's number. And got it. 
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redlude97
Sep 10, 2010, 1:03 AM
Post #125 of 149
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Lazlo wrote: One day my buddy and I headed to the local crag to see how many vertical feet we could climb in a day. Sooo, we started on the left and headed right. There was a team of three (rare at this crag) and they were on the longest, most popular route. One climber was at the belay, one was belaying on the ground, and another was waiting (this one was cute). We decided to climb through. We asked permission from all three. We didn't even touch their anchor or gear. Later, on another route, as we passed them again, I asked for the cute one's number. And got it.
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