OK people, let's all take a deep breath. This thread actually has some good stuff in it despite it's lowly beginnings. Can we take the pissing contest with Jay elsewhere?

...I will happily say I'm back to climbing today after almost 2 months off for potential tendon injuries (turned out to be nerve impingements). I'm happy to climb any grade, and that may be from 5.0 to 5.15; you go ahead and guess, if you care...

The thing is that there is an opportunity cost to working on those sorts of gymnastic exercises. If you don't have a good rock climbing gym available and can't build a decent home wall, then gymnastic exercises are likely to be useful, since, like climbing, they are body weight exercises. But, a well-structured climbing-gym based training program will likely be more effective because it is more sport specific.

shoulder problems that could almost certainly have been avoided with just a bit of sensible barbell work

What do you do to avoid shoulder problems ? Mine hurts from time to time.

You asked. I did you the courtesy of answering. And now you're "call[ing] bs."

Fine. Pretend I never posted. I'll delete my responses, and you have fun climbing 5.10b. Experience shows that there are plenty of other 5.8–5.10 weight lifters who will be more than happy to tell you what you want to hear.

Jay

I don't care...seriously.

Curt

Shouldn't you be lurking Adatesman's new site, waiting for your opportunity to get that last, last, last word on an issue no one but you ever cared about?

Shouldn't you be lurking Adatesman's new site, waiting for your opportunity to get that last, last, last word on an issue no one but you ever cared about?

You're much more of a cunt than a Curt!

Cheers dickrag. Keep up your hard work - you will always be respected for your efforts.

These are pretty good. They also give a sense of exercise progression. The only caveat is to use caution especially with the "abduction" exercise. If it causes pain, back off that one.

http://www.sportsinjuryclinic.net/...or/rotatstrength.php

Jay. When are you going to learn that people around here don't ask questions like that with a desire for real truth. I can't read what you posted originally, because you deleted it, but there's a good chance I totally agree with you. I started weight lifting and doing pullups about a couple of months ago...I ended up injuring my arm and both of the tendons in my right forearm. (I was too enthusiastic). Anyway, from my own personal experience (and I'm a female...keep that in mind) cardio (esp HIIT training) and climbing are the only types of training that have helped improve my climbing. I say that because cardio helps keep me skinnier, which makes climbing easier...which most guys might not even need for climbing. Depends.

Shouldn't you be busy sending out more retarded PMs? Like this one you just sent me?


Fucktard.

Curt

I sent it personally because I didn't feel like others need to be subjected to the animosity. However, if you want to fly to Aus and brawl, we can film it and make a true spectacle?

I sent it personally because I didn't feel like others need to be subjected to the animosity my douchebaggery.

Not sure how you can draw the conclusion weight training fails, simply because you personally fucked it up and got injured.

Anybody could so easily go over enthusiasticly climb, regardless of sex... and wind up with the same injury or worse.

I ended up injuring my arm and both of the tendons in my right forearm.

Weight lifting doesn't help rockclimbing though. It only creates more muscle and muscle is heavy to pull.

I didn't say that. You can injure yourself either way. Or neither way. I have golfers elbow and tennis elbow and I neither play golf nor tennis. Weight lifting doesn't help rockclimbing though. It only creates more muscle and muscle is heavy to pull. But the muscles created by rockclimbing are, obviously, the most efficent ones to use WHEN rockclimbing.

Ps. I posted that I was a female, because when compared to males, our body fat percentage is higher on average. Thereby explaining why cardio helps me with climbing...it, in combination with the muscle climbing creates, helps keep body fat percentage lower.

Karmi, you seem like a nice person, and I really hesitate to write anything. But, when you wrote above,


That implies you have two tendons in your forearm, which indicates a below average understanding of anatomy. It's so far off the mark as to be offensive to me. Secondly, you say,


Karmi, muscle is what actually does the pulling. No muscle, no pulling. Muscles don't push, they only pull.

The kind of "insight" you have in this conversation is akin to a sprinter who refuses to train hamstrings, because he only wants to train the muscles that propel him forward, as fast as possible, or the martial artist who only wants to train muscles involved in punching. You need muscle that provides both major movement patterns of a joint, to be really strong.

I'm sorry to be harsh, but if you got hurt in training, you probably either tried to wing it by yourself, or you trained with someone who doesn't know what he/she is doing.

I didn't mean to offend you. That is what my Dr. told me. She said there was a tendon that runs along the top and the bottom (she may have been focusing on the ones that I injured, because I told her I had severe pain when I was turning the steering wheel).
I got hurt in training because I was over enthusiastic with how much weight I was lifting...and probably had bad form as a result (I was doing the routine as outlined in the book "New Rules of Lifting for Women".) I don't claim to be any sort of expert.

Edit to add...I re-read what you wrote. When I said "muscle is heavy to pull", I meant it weighs more...therefore it is heavier to pull up as you climb. If that makes sense.

Regardless of your clarification, it is still pretty much...wrong.

Muscle may weigh more than fat per pound, but unlike fat, it is not inert mass you are just hefting around. Also, as someone else stated (and I have stated many times), lifting weights with the right kind of program does not guarantee shitloads of muscle mass will be built. ESPECIALLY for women.

Wrong about what? That I don't think weightlifting will help climbing? I guess it depends on your perspective and you obviously know more about this than I do. I view it from the vantage point that climbing is my preferred source of strength training. Also, when I have taken complete newbs climbing, the 120 lb female can usually outclimb the 170lb. muscle bound dude. But, whatever, everyone is different.