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MattLikesMusic
Feb 3, 2011, 5:46 AM
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I'm thinking about throwing together a sort of training board that allows me to move a bit more than a regular hang board, mostly used for technique, coordination and strength building. I was thinking I could put a few hand holds on some 2x4s and just work on that. I'm just curious if anyone has done something similar or if anyone has any better ideas.
Suggestions appreciated. Thanks
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spikeddem
Feb 3, 2011, 6:42 AM
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The term training board inherently implies a lack of training technique. I'm sure many people have done something similar. As for you wondering about better ideas, well it depends on what you're looking to train. You will not train technique by hanging on a holds on a 2x4. If your goal is to work on your technique, then climb. If your goal is to work on your finger strength, then get a hangboard or a campus setup.
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cmagee1
Feb 3, 2011, 7:27 AM
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Registered: Jan 13, 2011
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spikeddem wrote: The term training board inherently implies a lack of training technique. I'm sure many people have done something similar. As for you wondering about better ideas, well it depends on what you're looking to train. You will not train technique by hanging on a holds on a 2x4. If your goal is to work on your technique, then climb. If your goal is to work on your finger strength, then get a hangboard or a campus setup.
Other than this, however, it should help. For example, hanging on holds can help you learn to relax and also help strengthen. Just dont overdo it.
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mandryd
Feb 8, 2011, 6:18 AM
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yes I have done this. It's actually very easy and economical to do and one of the big advantages is that you can tailor it to your own needs and it's VERY cheap.
I find the best way is to get a 2x8 board as the base. Then at lowes there is a nice hobby/craft wood area where you can buy narrow strips of wood at varying widths (like all the way from 1/4" to 1" with nice increments).
buy whatever depths you want, I recommend 1" jugs (maybe more if you're still in the v2 ish range) then 3/4", 5/8", 1/2, 3/8, 1/4.
3/8 and 1/4 will feel ungodly so maybe hold off on those if you're not super strong yet.
cut them into hand width size (no real need to go much wider than that), use some sandpaper and round off the edge (round it off way way way more than you think. trust me you'll thank me in the long run).
then to mount just use a couple screws for each one. The thin holds tend to split so screw them in lightly and don't forget to drill pilot holes. What i did is put some wood glue on the back of the holds I made before screwing them in lightly so i didn't have to screw them in too tight and risk splitting the wood.
you may want to have a couple holds lightly rounded off for crimps and other holds super rounded off so it's basically a circle to train open handed stuff.
Just mess with it, it's soo cheap you can afford to mess up a few times. good luck
btw check out this page
http://beastmaker.co.uk/Grip-article.htm
this'll will give you a good starting point for training.
and don't listen to these naysayers. i'm in a situation where i don't have time to climb but maybe once a couple weeks because of school. all i do is hangboard every 3 days or so. before the fall semester started i was having some trouble on a v7 and a v8. after the fall semester was over (and only hangboarding) i was able to easily crush the v7 and the v8.
(This post was edited by mandryd on Feb 8, 2011, 6:25 AM)
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spikeddem
Feb 8, 2011, 4:32 PM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2007
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What I said:
spikeddem wrote: The term training board inherently implies a lack of training technique. I'm sure many people have done something similar. As for you wondering about better ideas, well it depends on what you're looking to train. You will not train technique by hanging on a holds on a 2x4. If your goal is to work on your technique, then climb. If your goal is to work on your finger strength, then get a hangboard or a campus setup.
vs
What you said:
mandryd wrote: and don't listen to these naysayers. i'm in a situation where i don't have time to climb but maybe once a couple weeks because of school. all i do is hangboard every 3 days or so. before the fall semester started i was having some trouble on a v7 and a v8. after the fall semester was over (and only hangboarding) i was able to easily crush the v7 and the v8.
If you're climbing V7/V8, hangboarding/campus training is suggested as it is now likely a more efficient use of your time in comparison to focusing solely on movement training. All I talked about was goals. Nobody in this thread has "naysayed" anything about hangboards.
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