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freedan
May 30, 2011, 12:52 PM
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Registered: Sep 11, 2006
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Climbing last night at Moss, noticed one of the nuts on a hanger for Cindy was loose, could unscrew it by hand. Didn't have a wrench with me - just thought I would mention it in case one of the regulars down there wanted to take care of it. I'll bring a wrench, possibly tonight, and crank it down. What is the usual procedure for a hanger that is so accessible? Epoxy on threads of bolt? Tighten smash end of bolt with hammer so nut can't back off or be taken? Loctite? |
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rtwilli4
May 30, 2011, 1:24 PM
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Registered: Feb 14, 2008
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It is possible to over-tighten an expansion bolt, so be careful. As long as it is just the nut that is spinning, and not the entire bolt, it's not really unsafe. Just hand tighten it (or you can use a wrench, but don't crank it down to tight) and then maybe put some Loctite or silicon or something on the threads if you are really worried about the thing coming off.
Whatever you do, make sure that it can be undone (IE don't bang the end of the bolt with a hammer). When the time comes for the bolt to be replaced, it will not be a fun job if you've done something permanent. Also, hammering the end might hammer the bolt back into the hole, and out of the sleeve, causing the expansion mechanism not to work anymore.
If anything I've said confuses you, it's probably a good idea to get the (or any) route developer to show you what's up.
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freedan
May 30, 2011, 3:40 PM
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Registered: Sep 11, 2006
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Thanks that's why I asked, I usually trad climb and don't have any occasion to play with bolts, the bolt/nut in question is at Moss Island, basically an outdoor climbing gym and is easily accessible to anyone. I hand tightened it but anyone could unscrew the nut and steal the hanger (on a ledge along a trail above a popular route, used for setting top ropes without having to use gear or sling cedars) the other hanger is tight with a couple threads showing above the nut. Just wanted to avoid the hanger from being stolen and figure someone who outfitted the anchors might see the post.
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