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kaizen
Jun 8, 2011, 9:17 PM
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A brief introduction: I am horrific when it comes to making long, stretched out moves.
Perhaps relevant, my climbing is heavily dependent on my feet, so far as I can tell. Having decent footholds at this point for me can be the difference in full number grades on routes, and 2-3 V grades bouldering. It probably doesn't help that I'm only 5'6", but as far as climbing goes I enjoy being shorter, so no excuses necessary.
For those of you who excel on long moves, especially on moderately overhanging rock with mediocre to terrible holds (i.e non-jugs), how do you do this? Or better, how do you train for this?
I often find myself struggling in two ways:
1. Maintaining foot contact, where I can hit the high hold but lose my feet and come swinging off
2. Not able to reach the hold when I do have good but awkward feet. It seems that as soon as my lower hand gets near my belly button, I just cannot move any higher.
Any recommendations for technique or training tips? Insight and assistance would be so very appreciated.
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ceebo
Jun 8, 2011, 9:50 PM
Post #2 of 32
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kaizen wrote: A brief introduction: I am horrific when it comes to making long, stretched out moves. Perhaps relevant, my climbing is heavily dependent on my feet, so far as I can tell. Having decent footholds at this point for me can be the difference in full number grades on routes, and 2-3 V grades bouldering. It probably doesn't help that I'm only 5'6", but as far as climbing goes I enjoy being shorter, so no excuses necessary. For those of you who excel on long moves, especially on moderately overhanging rock with mediocre to terrible holds (i.e non-jugs), how do you do this? Or better, how do you train for this? I often find myself struggling in two ways: 1. Maintaining foot contact, where I can hit the high hold but lose my feet and come swinging off 2. Not able to reach the hold when I do have good but awkward feet. It seems that as soon as my lower hand gets near my belly button, I just cannot move any higher. Any recommendations for technique or training tips? Insight and assistance would be so very appreciated.
I'm also quite small, and it does become a noticeable difference. My friend only has 1 inch reach on me yet that alters the way we do some crux moves greatly. I tend to lean more into a dynamic style lunge for such moves, where he can usually get them in a semi static manner. I tried multiple times to imitate the way he would do certain crux moves but the extra reach he has even only an inch completely alters the amount of energy i have to burn in order to copy him. As a result i find it far less physically demanding to use a more dynamic style. The down side is that it requires allot of motor skills and perfect timing. It can be hard to consistently repeat such moves.. and even harder to figure out what part of the body is doing something wrong.
But like anything you get better if you do it more. Your even smaller than me so you will probably need to develop some good controlled dynamic skills.
(This post was edited by ceebo on Jun 8, 2011, 10:10 PM)
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amyas
Jun 8, 2011, 9:51 PM
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Don't know how hard you climb, so you may be past any advice i could give, but maybe not, the routes you describe seem like my cup of tea though, so here goes. 1- Check out a book called The Self Coached Climber.
2- Keep your hips in, and in control (maybe you're kind of lunging when you don't really need to? That could throw your balance enough to pop your feet off.)
3- Have clearly in mind where your feet are going to go next before making the big reach. If I know I'm really going to have to stretch out, I plan on being in that position only long enough to move my feet up.
4- Don't think of anything you can't hang from with one as a terrible hold.
5- Ask guys that climb harder than me
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brokesomeribs
Jun 8, 2011, 11:32 PM
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A lot of it just comes down to a question of strength. The most surprising type of strength, however, is core strength. It's your abs, obliques, glutes, and hips that fight to keep your feet attached.
It's theoretically possible to keep all points of contact on the rock as long as your body is physically long enough to reach - but it gets harder and harder as you get within that 1"-2" window at the very limit of your length.
The trick is usually to tighten your abs and butt (butt is CRUCIAL) as you make the move. Try standing up right now and clenching your butt cheeks as hard as you can. You'll notice that it shifts your entire hip girdle forward. This same movement on rock will bring your body and center of gravity closer into the wall and do wonders for keeping your body attached.
In terms of your hands peeling off... there's no trick, just train harder :)
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patrickh
Jun 10, 2011, 12:40 PM
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I'm a bit on the short side as well (5'9") and have problems with these sort of moves as well. I've only been climbing for about 5 months, but I've progressed fairly quickly to a V6 level of bouldering via lots of reading, training, and some very good coaching. What I've found works best for these sort of moves is tons of body tension and a strong lower back. Keeping lots of tension in the obliques or lower back help keeps the hips close to the wall and allows for more weight on your feet. Additionally, I tend to finish the movement by pointing the toe if possible. This keeps a little extra pressure on the foot hold. Tension Tension Tension. I hope this helps.
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gunkiemike
Jun 12, 2011, 12:18 AM
Post #6 of 32
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brokesomeribs wrote: A lot of it just comes down to a question of strength. The most surprising type of strength, however, is core strength. It's your abs, obliques, glutes, and hips that fight to keep your feet attached.
Agreed!
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jbro_135
Jun 13, 2011, 3:18 PM
Post #7 of 32
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ceebo wrote: kaizen wrote: A brief introduction: I am horrific when it comes to making long, stretched out moves. Perhaps relevant, my climbing is heavily dependent on my feet, so far as I can tell. Having decent footholds at this point for me can be the difference in full number grades on routes, and 2-3 V grades bouldering. It probably doesn't help that I'm only 5'6", but as far as climbing goes I enjoy being shorter, so no excuses necessary. For those of you who excel on long moves, especially on moderately overhanging rock with mediocre to terrible holds (i.e non-jugs), how do you do this? Or better, how do you train for this? I often find myself struggling in two ways: 1. Maintaining foot contact, where I can hit the high hold but lose my feet and come swinging off 2. Not able to reach the hold when I do have good but awkward feet. It seems that as soon as my lower hand gets near my belly button, I just cannot move any higher. Any recommendations for technique or training tips? Insight and assistance would be so very appreciated. I'm also quite small, and it does become a noticeable difference. My friend only has 1 inch reach on me yet that alters the way we do some crux moves greatly. I tend to lean more into a dynamic style lunge for such moves, where he can usually get them in a semi static manner. I tried multiple times to imitate the way he would do certain crux moves but the extra reach he has even only an inch completely alters the amount of energy i have to burn in order to copy him. As a result i find it far less physically demanding to use a more dynamic style. The down side is that it requires allot of motor skills and perfect timing. It can be hard to consistently repeat such moves.. and even harder to figure out what part of the body is doing something wrong. But like anything you get better if you do it more. Your even smaller than me so you will probably need to develop some good controlled dynamic skills.
Right, the extra inch of reach is the issue, not your terrible technique or lack of core strength.
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spikeddem
Jun 13, 2011, 4:31 PM
Post #8 of 32
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jbro_135 wrote: ceebo wrote: kaizen wrote: A brief introduction: I am horrific when it comes to making long, stretched out moves. Perhaps relevant, my climbing is heavily dependent on my feet, so far as I can tell. Having decent footholds at this point for me can be the difference in full number grades on routes, and 2-3 V grades bouldering. It probably doesn't help that I'm only 5'6", but as far as climbing goes I enjoy being shorter, so no excuses necessary. For those of you who excel on long moves, especially on moderately overhanging rock with mediocre to terrible holds (i.e non-jugs), how do you do this? Or better, how do you train for this? I often find myself struggling in two ways: 1. Maintaining foot contact, where I can hit the high hold but lose my feet and come swinging off 2. Not able to reach the hold when I do have good but awkward feet. It seems that as soon as my lower hand gets near my belly button, I just cannot move any higher. Any recommendations for technique or training tips? Insight and assistance would be so very appreciated. I'm also quite small, and it does become a noticeable difference. My friend only has 1 inch reach on me yet that alters the way we do some crux moves greatly. I tend to lean more into a dynamic style lunge for such moves, where he can usually get them in a semi static manner. I tried multiple times to imitate the way he would do certain crux moves but the extra reach he has even only an inch completely alters the amount of energy i have to burn in order to copy him. As a result i find it far less physically demanding to use a more dynamic style. The down side is that it requires allot of motor skills and perfect timing. It can be hard to consistently repeat such moves.. and even harder to figure out what part of the body is doing something wrong. But like anything you get better if you do it more. Your even smaller than me so you will probably need to develop some good controlled dynamic skills. Right, the extra inch of reach is the issue, not your terrible technique or lack of core strength.
Agreed. Kaizen, completely ignore ceebo.
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njrox
Jun 13, 2011, 5:07 PM
Post #9 of 32
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I'm signing the exact same song. Long reaches to crimpy little holds on overhangs with bad to okay footing.
I've been working on this in the gym. I feel like it's a body position-to-balance issue. My strategy has been to work for the best possible footing with a knee dropped, then from a balanced position quickly extend and reach. Sometimes it works. Good luck.
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ceebo
Jun 13, 2011, 9:25 PM
Post #10 of 32
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jbro_135 wrote: ceebo wrote: kaizen wrote: A brief introduction: I am horrific when it comes to making long, stretched out moves. Perhaps relevant, my climbing is heavily dependent on my feet, so far as I can tell. Having decent footholds at this point for me can be the difference in full number grades on routes, and 2-3 V grades bouldering. It probably doesn't help that I'm only 5'6", but as far as climbing goes I enjoy being shorter, so no excuses necessary. For those of you who excel on long moves, especially on moderately overhanging rock with mediocre to terrible holds (i.e non-jugs), how do you do this? Or better, how do you train for this? I often find myself struggling in two ways: 1. Maintaining foot contact, where I can hit the high hold but lose my feet and come swinging off 2. Not able to reach the hold when I do have good but awkward feet. It seems that as soon as my lower hand gets near my belly button, I just cannot move any higher. Any recommendations for technique or training tips? Insight and assistance would be so very appreciated. I'm also quite small, and it does become a noticeable difference. My friend only has 1 inch reach on me yet that alters the way we do some crux moves greatly. I tend to lean more into a dynamic style lunge for such moves, where he can usually get them in a semi static manner. I tried multiple times to imitate the way he would do certain crux moves but the extra reach he has even only an inch completely alters the amount of energy i have to burn in order to copy him. As a result i find it far less physically demanding to use a more dynamic style. The down side is that it requires allot of motor skills and perfect timing. It can be hard to consistently repeat such moves.. and even harder to figure out what part of the body is doing something wrong. But like anything you get better if you do it more. Your even smaller than me so you will probably need to develop some good controlled dynamic skills. Right, the extra inch of reach is the issue, not your terrible technique or lack of core strength.
A 50 degree overhang reaching over a lip to a micro crimp (5mm or so) from a under cling deep lock off and body full span tip to toe. His extra inch allows him to reach the hold and full crimp, i can only reach it static with open 3 finger. Can you work the rest out moron?.
Oh wait, maybe i should try to smear?.. your a fucking clueless tool.
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spikeddem
Jun 13, 2011, 9:43 PM
Post #11 of 32
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ceebo wrote: jbro_135 wrote: ceebo wrote: kaizen wrote: A brief introduction: I am horrific when it comes to making long, stretched out moves. Perhaps relevant, my climbing is heavily dependent on my feet, so far as I can tell. Having decent footholds at this point for me can be the difference in full number grades on routes, and 2-3 V grades bouldering. It probably doesn't help that I'm only 5'6", but as far as climbing goes I enjoy being shorter, so no excuses necessary. For those of you who excel on long moves, especially on moderately overhanging rock with mediocre to terrible holds (i.e non-jugs), how do you do this? Or better, how do you train for this? I often find myself struggling in two ways: 1. Maintaining foot contact, where I can hit the high hold but lose my feet and come swinging off 2. Not able to reach the hold when I do have good but awkward feet. It seems that as soon as my lower hand gets near my belly button, I just cannot move any higher. Any recommendations for technique or training tips? Insight and assistance would be so very appreciated. I'm also quite small, and it does become a noticeable difference. My friend only has 1 inch reach on me yet that alters the way we do some crux moves greatly. I tend to lean more into a dynamic style lunge for such moves, where he can usually get them in a semi static manner. I tried multiple times to imitate the way he would do certain crux moves but the extra reach he has even only an inch completely alters the amount of energy i have to burn in order to copy him. As a result i find it far less physically demanding to use a more dynamic style. The down side is that it requires allot of motor skills and perfect timing. It can be hard to consistently repeat such moves.. and even harder to figure out what part of the body is doing something wrong. But like anything you get better if you do it more. Your even smaller than me so you will probably need to develop some good controlled dynamic skills. Right, the extra inch of reach is the issue, not your terrible technique or lack of core strength. A 50 degree overhang reaching over a lip to a micro crimp (5mm or so) from a under cling deep lock off and body full span tip to toe. His extra inch allows him to reach the hold and full crimp, i can only reach it static with open 3 finger. Can you work the rest out moron?. Oh wait, maybe i should try to smear?.. your a fucking clueless tool.
Thousand million dollars says he's just got better tension going on. Boo ya!
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ceebo
Jun 13, 2011, 9:48 PM
Post #12 of 32
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spikeddem wrote: ceebo wrote: jbro_135 wrote: ceebo wrote: kaizen wrote: A brief introduction: I am horrific when it comes to making long, stretched out moves. Perhaps relevant, my climbing is heavily dependent on my feet, so far as I can tell. Having decent footholds at this point for me can be the difference in full number grades on routes, and 2-3 V grades bouldering. It probably doesn't help that I'm only 5'6", but as far as climbing goes I enjoy being shorter, so no excuses necessary. For those of you who excel on long moves, especially on moderately overhanging rock with mediocre to terrible holds (i.e non-jugs), how do you do this? Or better, how do you train for this? I often find myself struggling in two ways: 1. Maintaining foot contact, where I can hit the high hold but lose my feet and come swinging off 2. Not able to reach the hold when I do have good but awkward feet. It seems that as soon as my lower hand gets near my belly button, I just cannot move any higher. Any recommendations for technique or training tips? Insight and assistance would be so very appreciated. I'm also quite small, and it does become a noticeable difference. My friend only has 1 inch reach on me yet that alters the way we do some crux moves greatly. I tend to lean more into a dynamic style lunge for such moves, where he can usually get them in a semi static manner. I tried multiple times to imitate the way he would do certain crux moves but the extra reach he has even only an inch completely alters the amount of energy i have to burn in order to copy him. As a result i find it far less physically demanding to use a more dynamic style. The down side is that it requires allot of motor skills and perfect timing. It can be hard to consistently repeat such moves.. and even harder to figure out what part of the body is doing something wrong. But like anything you get better if you do it more. Your even smaller than me so you will probably need to develop some good controlled dynamic skills. Right, the extra inch of reach is the issue, not your terrible technique or lack of core strength. A 50 degree overhang reaching over a lip to a micro crimp (5mm or so) from a under cling deep lock off and body full span tip to toe. His extra inch allows him to reach the hold and full crimp, i can only reach it static with open 3 finger. Can you work the rest out moron?. Oh wait, maybe i should try to smear?.. your a fucking clueless tool. Thousand million dollars says he's just got better tension going on. Boo ya!
Like you would know 
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kaizen
Jun 13, 2011, 10:02 PM
Post #13 of 32
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Appreciate the posts and, umm discussion so far 
Seriously, thank you to those who have posted.
I have the SCC, and truthfully I really couldn't find much in the way to help on long reaches. I did try squeezing the glutes on some "easier" boulder problems yesterday while we were out. It WORKS. I also found it helpful to just focus on keeping my toes pressed down as absolutely hard as possible, but not sure how great a strategy that is going forward.
So it sounds like the biggest item I need to work on is maintaining tension on the long moves, yes? Trying to stay tight, from keeping the toe's pressed on holds as hard as necessary, and maintaining that tension through the legs, back, stomach, and out the shoulders to the high hold?
So, should I focus on strengthening my core, or perhaps working on keeping toes down on holds more? Both seem correct, but perhaps one would help with the other better in terms of training efficiency.
I guess now I'm hoping for some training and practice advice, like traversing overhangs, working on lockoffs, front levers, etc. Any recommended workouts or exercises you guys do? And guys like Supra, Flesh, etc., certainly feel free to post up as well 
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jbro_135
Jun 14, 2011, 3:15 AM
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Basically any strength training will help you. Hard bouldering, lockoffs, front levers, etc.
An important thing not to overlook here though is technique. Really focus on exaggerating body positions, drop knees, flagging, and turning. If you can get an extra bit of reach out of your technique then you're climbing more efficiently and will use less energy to do a move. weighted campusing and one-finger traversing may help, but definitely don't overlook technique.
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ceebo
Jun 14, 2011, 12:12 PM
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jbro_135 wrote: Basically any strength training will help you. Hard bouldering, lockoffs, front levers, etc. An important thing not to overlook here though is technique. Really focus on exaggerating body positions, drop knees, flagging, and turning. If you can get an extra bit of reach out of your technique then you're climbing more efficiently and will use less energy to do a move. weighted campusing and one-finger traversing may help, but definitely don't overlook technique.
Yet you say training dynamic strength/technique that both of these in bold help promote is of lesser value. Or did i just misunderstand the intent of personal insult regardless of right or wrong to the topic?.
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spikeddem
Jun 14, 2011, 1:56 PM
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ceebo wrote: jbro_135 wrote: Basically any strength training will help you. Hard bouldering, lockoffs, front levers, etc. An important thing not to overlook here though is technique. Really focus on exaggerating body positions, drop knees, flagging, and turning. If you can get an extra bit of reach out of your technique then you're climbing more efficiently and will use less energy to do a move. weighted campusing and one-finger traversing may help, but definitely don't overlook technique. Yet you say training dynamic strength/technique that both of these in bold help promote is of lesser value. Or did i just misunderstand the intent of personal insult regardless of right or wrong to the topic?.
Nobody can possibly understand what your first sentence means. You need to focus on making your posts easier for us to read if you want a genuine response to them.
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ceebo
Jun 14, 2011, 3:22 PM
Post #17 of 32
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spikeddem wrote: ceebo wrote: jbro_135 wrote: Basically any strength training will help you. Hard bouldering, lockoffs, front levers, etc. An important thing not to overlook here though is technique. Really focus on exaggerating body positions, drop knees, flagging, and turning. If you can get an extra bit of reach out of your technique then you're climbing more efficiently and will use less energy to do a move. weighted campusing and one-finger traversing may help, but definitely don't overlook technique. Yet you say training dynamic strength/technique that both of these in bold help promote is of lesser value. Or did i just misunderstand the intent of personal insult regardless of right or wrong to the topic?. can't possibly understand what your first sentence means. You need to focus on making your posts easier for me to read if you want a genuine response to them.
Even if you did understand (and it was far from a riddle) i don't really have much interest in you. Maybe because you rarely add anything of value to a subject. I may not either, but i ''try''.
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spikeddem
Jun 14, 2011, 4:10 PM
Post #18 of 32
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ceebo wrote: spikeddem wrote: ceebo wrote: jbro_135 wrote: Basically any strength training will help you. Hard bouldering, lockoffs, front levers, etc. An important thing not to overlook here though is technique. Really focus on exaggerating body positions, drop knees, flagging, and turning. If you can get an extra bit of reach out of your technique then you're climbing more efficiently and will use less energy to do a move. weighted campusing and one-finger traversing may help, but definitely don't overlook technique. Yet you say training dynamic strength/technique that both of these in bold help promote is of lesser value. Or did i just misunderstand the intent of personal insult regardless of right or wrong to the topic?. can't possibly understand what your first sentence means. You need to focus on making your posts easier for me to read if you want a genuine response to them. Even if you did understand (and it was far from a riddle) i don't really have much interest in you. Maybe because you rarely add anything of value to a subject. I may not either, but i ''try''.
The problem is that you already know your thoughts. Thus, when you're writing you don't notice a lack of clear and effective communication. The rest of the forum members do not have that same advantage, so it is much harder for us to understand what you're trying to communicate.
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potreroed
Jun 14, 2011, 4:19 PM
Post #19 of 32
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Here's a tip-sounds weird but it really works. If you turn your face away from, rather than look towards, that little hold that you can't reach, you can usually eke out the extra inch or two that you need.
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cracklover
Jun 14, 2011, 4:35 PM
Post #20 of 32
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ceebo wrote: jbro_135 wrote: ceebo wrote: kaizen wrote: A brief introduction: I am horrific when it comes to making long, stretched out moves. Perhaps relevant, my climbing is heavily dependent on my feet, so far as I can tell. Having decent footholds at this point for me can be the difference in full number grades on routes, and 2-3 V grades bouldering. It probably doesn't help that I'm only 5'6", but as far as climbing goes I enjoy being shorter, so no excuses necessary. For those of you who excel on long moves, especially on moderately overhanging rock with mediocre to terrible holds (i.e non-jugs), how do you do this? Or better, how do you train for this? I often find myself struggling in two ways: 1. Maintaining foot contact, where I can hit the high hold but lose my feet and come swinging off 2. Not able to reach the hold when I do have good but awkward feet. It seems that as soon as my lower hand gets near my belly button, I just cannot move any higher. Any recommendations for technique or training tips? Insight and assistance would be so very appreciated. I'm also quite small, and it does become a noticeable difference. My friend only has 1 inch reach on me yet that alters the way we do some crux moves greatly. I tend to lean more into a dynamic style lunge for such moves, where he can usually get them in a semi static manner. I tried multiple times to imitate the way he would do certain crux moves but the extra reach he has even only an inch completely alters the amount of energy i have to burn in order to copy him. As a result i find it far less physically demanding to use a more dynamic style. The down side is that it requires allot of motor skills and perfect timing. It can be hard to consistently repeat such moves.. and even harder to figure out what part of the body is doing something wrong. But like anything you get better if you do it more. Your even smaller than me so you will probably need to develop some good controlled dynamic skills. Right, the extra inch of reach is the issue, not your terrible technique or lack of core strength. A 50 degree overhang reaching over a lip to a micro crimp (5mm or so) from a under cling deep lock off and body full span tip to toe. His extra inch allows him to reach the hold and full crimp, i can only reach it static with open 3 finger. Can you work the rest out moron?. Oh wait, maybe i should try to smear?.. your a fucking clueless tool.
I'm pretty short for a guy (5'6"). So far, climbing for 12 years and up to mid-hard 5.12 I have never found that I needed to specifically train my dynamic movement. Yes, sometimes I need to do dynamic moves, but they have never been the main problem. The main issue is body position, hand position, and really getting the most out of small footholds.
From what the OP says about not being able to get much out of small holds, it sounds like technique is at least 90% of the problem for him. The other 10% - hand strength, will come in time. But core exercises certainly might help in the ability to hold certain positions.
Meanwhile, here are a few tips from one shorty to another:
If there's a hold that's slightly out of reach, try looking down/away from the hold. I've often found that gives me an extra 1/2 inch.
If you can, turn a crimp into a sidepull/undercling as you move by it and get your feet higher. This was the key to unlock my first real 5.12c.
If you get the opportunity, stem your feet. Even footholds that look pretty nonexistent can be amazingly good if you can use opposition between your feet. Partly, this requires really sucking your hips in.
If you can add a toe-cam to a heel hook, it becomes much more effective than a heel hook alone. You can essentially lever your body up by pulling in with your foot. Even a pretty subtle toe smear will help a surprising amount.
Those are a few things on increasing your reach off the top of my head.
Cheers,
GO
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ghisino
Jun 14, 2011, 4:36 PM
Post #21 of 32
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cheap trick
turning your head in the exact opposite direction from the hold you are trying to reach gives you a few extra inches.
No magic going and no joke!
helpful on long, static moves where you only miss a little extra reach, pretty useless elsewhere.
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cracklover
Jun 14, 2011, 4:39 PM
Post #22 of 32
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ceebo wrote: spikeddem wrote: ceebo wrote: jbro_135 wrote: Basically any strength training will help you. Hard bouldering, lockoffs, front levers, etc. An important thing not to overlook here though is technique. Really focus on exaggerating body positions, drop knees, flagging, and turning. If you can get an extra bit of reach out of your technique then you're climbing more efficiently and will use less energy to do a move. weighted campusing and one-finger traversing may help, but definitely don't overlook technique. Yet you say training dynamic strength/technique that both of these in bold help promote is of lesser value. Or did i just misunderstand the intent of personal insult regardless of right or wrong to the topic?. can't possibly understand what your first sentence means. You need to focus on making your posts easier for me to read if you want a genuine response to them. Even if you did understand (and it was far from a riddle) i don't really have much interest in you. Maybe because you rarely add anything of value to a subject. I may not either, but i ''try''.
Actually, in the last month or two, Spike really has been trying (or so it seems). And to some pretty good effect. I actually un-killfiled him because he started posting worthwhile posts. You, on the other hand...
GO
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ceebo
Jun 14, 2011, 4:45 PM
Post #23 of 32
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Posts: 862
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spikeddem wrote: ceebo wrote: spikeddem wrote: ceebo wrote: jbro_135 wrote: Basically any strength training will help you. Hard bouldering, lockoffs, front levers, etc. An important thing not to overlook here though is technique. Really focus on exaggerating body positions, drop knees, flagging, and turning. If you can get an extra bit of reach out of your technique then you're climbing more efficiently and will use less energy to do a move. weighted campusing and one-finger traversing may help, but definitely don't overlook technique. Yet you say training dynamic strength/technique that both of these in bold help promote is of lesser value. Or did i just misunderstand the intent of personal insult regardless of right or wrong to the topic?. can't possibly understand what your first sentence means. You need to focus on making your posts easier for me to read if you want a genuine response to them. Even if you did understand (and it was far from a riddle) i don't really have much interest in you. Maybe because you rarely add anything of value to a subject. I may not either, but i ''try''. The problem is that you already know your thoughts. Thus, when you're writing you don't notice a lack of clear and effective communication. The rest of the forum members do not have that same advantage, so it is much harder for us to understand what you're trying to communicate.
No, more like you jumped into a topic with ought reading everything first, seen my name and thought ''meh''.
Either that or you just enjoy my attention. If you want i can write you a story?... you will like it i promise.
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ceebo
Jun 14, 2011, 4:48 PM
Post #24 of 32
(10718 views)
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Registered: Nov 9, 2009
Posts: 862
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cracklover wrote: ceebo wrote: spikeddem wrote: ceebo wrote: jbro_135 wrote: Basically any strength training will help you. Hard bouldering, lockoffs, front levers, etc. An important thing not to overlook here though is technique. Really focus on exaggerating body positions, drop knees, flagging, and turning. If you can get an extra bit of reach out of your technique then you're climbing more efficiently and will use less energy to do a move. weighted campusing and one-finger traversing may help, but definitely don't overlook technique. Yet you say training dynamic strength/technique that both of these in bold help promote is of lesser value. Or did i just misunderstand the intent of personal insult regardless of right or wrong to the topic?. can't possibly understand what your first sentence means. You need to focus on making your posts easier for me to read if you want a genuine response to them. Even if you did understand (and it was far from a riddle) i don't really have much interest in you. Maybe because you rarely add anything of value to a subject. I may not either, but i ''try''. And to some pretty good effect. I actually un-killfiled him because he started posting worthwhile posts. You, on the other hand... GO
Yes, because quoting random sentences from the SCC takes talent.
Kill file me all day long M8.
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Carrick
Jun 14, 2011, 4:49 PM
Post #25 of 32
(10717 views)
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Registered: Jun 15, 2007
Posts: 7
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At 5'5", I often find that I step higher up much further than the taller people I climb with; this usually requires a fair bit of flexibility on my part. With some crafty body positioning and maybe even hand-foot matching, there hasn't been much my taller friends can do that I haven't been able to find "short beta" for.
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