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danger
Jun 15, 2011, 4:08 AM
Post #1 of 3
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Registered: Apr 9, 2010
Posts: 17
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I climbed monday and tuesday and was about to go in today for a light session.
I usually don't do 3 days in a row and i wanted to check everything was good, so i lightly squeezed my fingers in between each joint and found the A2 pulley areas on my right index finger and left middle finger to be sensitive. My other fingers felt fine. So I think I will take a rest day.
Does anyone else do this "Squeeze test"? Do you think it's valid? Ever since i tore my a2 pulley on my right ring finger last year I've been paranoid about tendon/pulley injuries
(This post was edited by danger on Jun 15, 2011, 7:00 AM)
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squierbypetzl
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Jun 15, 2011, 8:40 AM
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Registered: Jul 6, 2005
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I know a bunch of (paranoid) people who do exactly that after cranking hard. I've noticed some tenderness in the area after climbing hard but it usually goes away within a day. Haven't torn a pulley and I sure as heck don't plan on doing so.
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onceahardman
Jun 15, 2011, 9:56 PM
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Registered: Aug 3, 2007
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danger wrote: I climbed monday and tuesday and was about to go in today for a light session. I usually don't do 3 days in a row and i wanted to check everything was good, so i lightly squeezed my fingers in between each joint and found the A2 pulley areas on my right index finger and left middle finger to be sensitive. My other fingers felt fine. So I think I will take a rest day. Does anyone else do this "Squeeze test"? Do you think it's valid? Ever since i tore my a2 pulley on my right ring finger last year I've been paranoid about tendon/pulley injuries
A good question, and a little more complicated than it might seem.
Clinical tests like this are often statistically described in two ways. Specificity (Sp) and Sensitivity (Sn).
A squeeze test is probably quite sensitive. This means it will catch a large percentage of the people who actually have the condition being tested for.
It is probably not very specific, though. A squeeze test would probably be positive for fracture, arthritis, capsule injury, ligament sprain, flexor tendon strain, volar plate injury, and probably others. It doesn't really help narrow things down much. There are lots of false positives.
The value of a high sensitivity test is, that when the test is negative, it helps to rule out the condition being tested.
A higher specificity test would be more valuable in ruling IN an injury like a pulley tear. An example might be measurable bowstringing. When a highly specific test is positive, it helps to rule the condition in. Relatively few false positives, but because of the lack of sensitivity, you will miss some diagnoses. You will have more false negatives.
So, to answer whether the squeeze test is "valid", it's valid to tell you something is wrong, but it could just be a bruise. You don't really know what's wrong, but something is.
In any event, in your particular case, I think a few days of relative rest are a good idea. Good luck.
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