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aethyr


Jun 27, 2011, 11:37 PM
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path to improvement
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I just joined my first indoor rock climbing gym, after being introduced to it for the very first time. Towards the end I was able to climb all the 5.10a without falling, but I have a feeling these were graded easily. Because I went to my new gym I just joined and I could barely climb all the V0 boulders and V1 was simply out of the question. V0 is the beginner level for boulders, right?


I would like to know what is the most effective path for a beginner. Should I take lessons? Are there good books/videos on techniques? What about exercises?

I can do about 15 pull ups on a bar, but I can't even hang my body weight on my fingertips on the canvas board. Should I concentrate on increasing my finger strength? And if so, how do I do that? I'm also concentrating on doing lat pull downs at the gym, but using just my fingertips to hold the bar.

At the rock gym, I've also been just hanging off holds for as long as I can to help increase my strength and endurance.

I'm probably going about this all wrong, so I welcome correction!

EDIT: Should have read the 1st sticky - so I don't need to do ANY special finger/forearm exercises? I feel those are the sorest parts of my body. The V1 boulders are often inclined and I find I'm barely able to hold on - surely this requires some amount of grip strength, no?


(This post was edited by aethyr on Jun 27, 2011, 11:43 PM)


herites


Jun 28, 2011, 12:11 AM
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As a beginner you need technique more than raw strength. You have a few options for improving tech, like buying a book (Self Coached Climber), taking classes, watching others climb and simply climbing more. If you climb a lot, then your body will figure out what to do, especially if you conciously aware of your footwork, shifting your center of (m)ass, not overgripping, shaking your arms down, etc.


aethyr


Jun 28, 2011, 7:18 AM
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herites wrote:
As a beginner you need technique more than raw strength. You have a few options for improving tech, like buying a book (Self Coached Climber), taking classes, watching others climb and simply climbing more. If you climb a lot, then your body will figure out what to do, especially if you conciously aware of your footwork, shifting your center of (m)ass, not overgripping, shaking your arms down, etc.

I agree with this. But there is one V1 boulder that, well pretty much seems to me to be a strength move(at least for a beginner). I'm on an overhang/incline and the next grip is way up on a straight wall, where I need to sort of swing myself to reach it. The problem is, I'm semi-upside down and simply lack the strength to hang and then swing. Is there a special technique to reach it?


herites


Jun 28, 2011, 7:35 AM
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English isn't my native language, so sorry for the strange description :). I assume you are hanging upside down from the ceiling, legs and arms parellel to each other. If you need to reach out with your left hand then move your left leg to the righ, find a foothold and push yourself from that. You still have to hold yourself with one hand, but at least your left leg will do the hard work. Also, you can "balance" with your right leg, it doesnt need to be on a foothold, have it somewhere where it feels natural, comfortable.


JAB


Jun 28, 2011, 1:33 PM
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aethyr wrote:
herites wrote:
As a beginner you need technique more than raw strength. You have a few options for improving tech, like buying a book (Self Coached Climber), taking classes, watching others climb and simply climbing more. If you climb a lot, then your body will figure out what to do, especially if you conciously aware of your footwork, shifting your center of (m)ass, not overgripping, shaking your arms down, etc.

I agree with this. But there is one V1 boulder that, well pretty much seems to me to be a strength move(at least for a beginner). I'm on an overhang/incline and the next grip is way up on a straight wall, where I need to sort of swing myself to reach it. The problem is, I'm semi-upside down and simply lack the strength to hang and then swing. Is there a special technique to reach it?

Don't feel too bad about yourself. The boulder grading is not very good for easier problems, even V0 is pretty hard.


ducfast


Jun 28, 2011, 2:34 PM
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When I first started climbing my strenght and techniques were way off since my body had never done anything like climbing before. The way I was able to get my strength up fast and improve my technique was just simply climb, I would be at the gym 4-5 times a week learning all I can from the people at the gym and asking pointers or hints, then in no time I found myself in Nuevo Leon MX doing multi pitch routes with ease, it just takes time to build up strength and technique. My best advice is too climb.


saint_john


Jun 28, 2011, 3:21 PM
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JAB wrote:
aethyr wrote:
herites wrote:
As a beginner you need technique more than raw strength. You have a few options for improving tech, like buying a book (Self Coached Climber), taking classes, watching others climb and simply climbing more. If you climb a lot, then your body will figure out what to do, especially if you conciously aware of your footwork, shifting your center of (m)ass, not overgripping, shaking your arms down, etc.

I agree with this. But there is one V1 boulder that, well pretty much seems to me to be a strength move(at least for a beginner). I'm on an overhang/incline and the next grip is way up on a straight wall, where I need to sort of swing myself to reach it. The problem is, I'm semi-upside down and simply lack the strength to hang and then swing. Is there a special technique to reach it?

Don't feel too bad about yourself. The boulder grading is not very good for easier problems, even V0 is pretty hard.

Agreed. The average person off the street probably could not do a V0 boulder problem.


ceebo


Jun 28, 2011, 4:38 PM
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saint_john wrote:
JAB wrote:
aethyr wrote:
herites wrote:
As a beginner you need technique more than raw strength. You have a few options for improving tech, like buying a book (Self Coached Climber), taking classes, watching others climb and simply climbing more. If you climb a lot, then your body will figure out what to do, especially if you conciously aware of your footwork, shifting your center of (m)ass, not overgripping, shaking your arms down, etc.

I agree with this. But there is one V1 boulder that, well pretty much seems to me to be a strength move(at least for a beginner). I'm on an overhang/incline and the next grip is way up on a straight wall, where I need to sort of swing myself to reach it. The problem is, I'm semi-upside down and simply lack the strength to hang and then swing. Is there a special technique to reach it?

Don't feel too bad about yourself. The boulder grading is not very good for easier problems, even V0 is pretty hard.

Agreed. The average person off the street probably could not do a V0 boulder problem.

The average person is a unemployed drug addict with multiple crack kids to multiple smack heads. Tape a bag of brown at the top of a wall and you will see a skin and bony version of sharma scaling v15.


saint_john


Jun 28, 2011, 4:40 PM
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ceebo wrote:
saint_john wrote:
JAB wrote:
aethyr wrote:
herites wrote:
As a beginner you need technique more than raw strength. You have a few options for improving tech, like buying a book (Self Coached Climber), taking classes, watching others climb and simply climbing more. If you climb a lot, then your body will figure out what to do, especially if you conciously aware of your footwork, shifting your center of (m)ass, not overgripping, shaking your arms down, etc.

I agree with this. But there is one V1 boulder that, well pretty much seems to me to be a strength move(at least for a beginner). I'm on an overhang/incline and the next grip is way up on a straight wall, where I need to sort of swing myself to reach it. The problem is, I'm semi-upside down and simply lack the strength to hang and then swing. Is there a special technique to reach it?

Don't feel too bad about yourself. The boulder grading is not very good for easier problems, even V0 is pretty hard.

Agreed. The average person off the street probably could not do a V0 boulder problem.

The average person is a unemployed drug addict with multiple crack kids to multiple smack heads.

oh! you must live in St Louis, too!


(This post was edited by saint_john on Jun 28, 2011, 4:41 PM)


aethyr


Jul 12, 2011, 8:33 AM
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I thought I'd post an update.

I've been climbing every other day, since I first posted. On my off days, I do exercises, such as pullups, finger hangs and one arm static hangs of my body weight.

I can climb almost every V1 at 3 different gyms now and some V2s. The remaining V2s require additional grip/pinch strength and pulling strength/endurance than I currently possess.

There is a V2 that requires a 1-armed mantle on a slight slope, with the other arm stretching directly above to grab a sloper. The entire wall slightly is inclined, so the very act of reaching for the overhead sloper causes me to fall. I can do the mantle, but I simply don't have the grip to sufficiently grab the overhead sloper to stop my fall.

While there is plenty of technique to be gained, the sheer increase in grip and pinch strength required for harder grades keeps pointing me to specific exercises to address those weaknesses.


saint_john


Jul 12, 2011, 12:51 PM
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it sounds like you need to wear gloves.


johnwesely


Jul 12, 2011, 1:00 PM
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aethyr wrote:
I thought I'd post an update.

I've been climbing every other day, since I first posted. On my off days, I do exercises, such as pullups, finger hangs and one arm static hangs of my body weight.

I can climb almost every V1 at 3 different gyms now and some V2s. The remaining V2s require additional grip/pinch strength and pulling strength/endurance than I currently possess.

There is a V2 that requires a 1-armed mantle on a slight slope, with the other arm stretching directly above to grab a sloper. The entire wall slightly is inclined, so the very act of reaching for the overhead sloper causes me to fall. I can do the mantle, but I simply don't have the grip to sufficiently grab the overhead sloper to stop my fall.

While there is plenty of technique to be gained, the sheer increase in grip and pinch strength required for harder grades keeps pointing me to specific exercises to address those weaknesses.

I think you might be cruisin for a bruisin and/or barking up the wrong tree. It is stupid not to give your body time to recover during sessions. Any gains you have seen were because you were climbing every other day, not because you were doing all of the supplemental stuff in between.


rnevius


Jul 12, 2011, 3:32 PM
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aethyr wrote:
I can do the mantle, but I simply don't have the grip to sufficiently grab the overhead sloper to stop my fall. While there is plenty of technique to be gained, the sheer increase in grip and pinch strength required for harder grades keeps pointing me to specific exercises to address those weaknesses.

I highly doubt this is necessary. Especially in gyms, I haven't noticed greater than average grip strength being needed until much higher grades. Focus on the climbing, not the exercises. Climb a whole bunch of V0's and really focus on technique (footwork, turning your hips into the wall, etc). Try to figure out how you can do the mantle without needing to "stop your fall" in the first place. Do the mantle correctly, THEN reach for the hold. I'm just one person though, others may disagree.


erisspirit


Jul 12, 2011, 3:51 PM
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ceebo wrote:
saint_john wrote:
JAB wrote:
aethyr wrote:
herites wrote:
As a beginner you need technique more than raw strength. You have a few options for improving tech, like buying a book (Self Coached Climber), taking classes, watching others climb and simply climbing more. If you climb a lot, then your body will figure out what to do, especially if you conciously aware of your footwork, shifting your center of (m)ass, not overgripping, shaking your arms down, etc.

I agree with this. But there is one V1 boulder that, well pretty much seems to me to be a strength move(at least for a beginner). I'm on an overhang/incline and the next grip is way up on a straight wall, where I need to sort of swing myself to reach it. The problem is, I'm semi-upside down and simply lack the strength to hang and then swing. Is there a special technique to reach it?

Don't feel too bad about yourself. The boulder grading is not very good for easier problems, even V0 is pretty hard.

Agreed. The average person off the street probably could not do a V0 boulder problem.

The average person is a unemployed drug addict with multiple crack kids to multiple smack heads. Tape a bag of brown at the top of a wall and you will see a skin and bony version of sharma scaling v15.

Where the heck do you live??


sungam


Jul 12, 2011, 3:53 PM
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johnwesely wrote:
aethyr wrote:
I thought I'd post an update.

I've been climbing every other day, since I first posted. On my off days, I do exercises, such as pullups, finger hangs and one arm static hangs of my body weight.

I can climb almost every V1 at 3 different gyms now and some V2s. The remaining V2s require additional grip/pinch strength and pulling strength/endurance than I currently possess.

There is a V2 that requires a 1-armed mantle on a slight slope, with the other arm stretching directly above to grab a sloper. The entire wall slightly is inclined, so the very act of reaching for the overhead sloper causes me to fall. I can do the mantle, but I simply don't have the grip to sufficiently grab the overhead sloper to stop my fall.

While there is plenty of technique to be gained, the sheer increase in grip and pinch strength required for harder grades keeps pointing me to specific exercises to address those weaknesses.

I think you might be cruisin for a bruisin and/or barking up the wrong tree. It is stupid not to give your body time to recover during sessions. Any gains you have seen were because you were climbing every other day, not because you were doing all of the supplemental stuff in between.
Just a note, cuz I just saw this and thought it was interesting. At like 1/5 or 1/4 the way through (I don't see a time bar?) Blair Morrison talks about how he switched up his training to every other day and saw huge gains. I mean, he was doing 3 sessions on his on days, but still.
http://pd.crossfit.com/...ubryLeBawMorison.mov


herites


Jul 12, 2011, 9:50 PM
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99% of the time, when a beginner thinks he needs finger/grip strength, he isn't doing a move in the optimal way. Get out to real rock, even III-IV routes have "shit" holds and such, but with proper balance and footwork they are the easiest things in the world.


aethyr


Jul 12, 2011, 10:08 PM
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herites wrote:
99% of the time, when a beginner thinks he needs finger/grip strength, he isn't doing a move in the optimal way. Get out to real rock, even III-IV routes have "shit" holds and such, but with proper balance and footwork they are the easiest things in the world.

I don't doubt I'm extremely inefficient with my moves. But I also think that perhaps you veterans forget how much stronger your finger and overall hang/pulling strength is compared to a beginner.

For example, I saw a staff member climb a V0 in a very efficient, effortless way. I thought, "wow, why didn't I think of doing that?" So I tried the same thing and failed miserably because his efficient movements were achieved with a move that required greater strength than I possessed. But to him, the move was effortless. To me, the move was impossible at the time.

Or another example, I'm told to keep my body as close to the wall as possible...but doing that on a roof requires great strength! So at home, I practice hanging and pulling myself up using my kitchen table as a roof.


(This post was edited by aethyr on Jul 12, 2011, 10:13 PM)


rnevius


Jul 12, 2011, 10:23 PM
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aethyr wrote:
But I also think that perhaps you veterans forget how much stronger your finger and overall hang/pulling strength is compared to a beginner.

I'm told to keep my body as close to the wall as possible...but doing that on a roof requires great strength! So at home, I practice hanging and pulling myself up using my kitchen table as a roof.

This usually isn't the case on severely overhanging routes. Most of the time, you will use a straighter arm technique. Again, evidence that you need to really examine your technique, not your strength. Climb better and your strength will improve as it needs to.


aethyr


Jul 12, 2011, 10:30 PM
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rnevius wrote:
aethyr wrote:
But I also think that perhaps you veterans forget how much stronger your finger and overall hang/pulling strength is compared to a beginner.

I'm told to keep my body as close to the wall as possible...but doing that on a roof requires great strength! So at home, I practice hanging and pulling myself up using my kitchen table as a roof.

This usually isn't the case on severely overhanging routes. Most of the time, you will use a straighter arm technique. Again, evidence that you need to really examine your technique, not your strength. Climb better and your strength will improve as it needs to.

Yet even the mere act of hanging on a roof is challenging for beginners because of the inherent finger strength involved in holding up over 50% of your body weight by your finger tips.


erisspirit


Jul 12, 2011, 10:35 PM
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my finger and grip strength definitely is stronger now, and that just came with more climbing. I for the most part disagree with your comment about pull strength being stronger though. I can BARELY do 2 pullups, and in most cases that doesn't limit me. What limits me is bad body tension, sloppy footwork, bad positioning etc. On a roof I use way more core tension and footwork than pull strength.

There is a reason most here are saying technique technique technique...


rnevius


Jul 12, 2011, 10:42 PM
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aethyr wrote:
Yet even the mere act of hanging on a roof is challenging for beginners because of the inherent finger strength involved in holding up over 50% of your body weight by your finger tips.

Alright buddy, I'm done trying to offer advice. You obviously know it all. Just consider what part of your body is cutting from the wall...if you're landing on your feet, you may want to consider what is actually causing you to fall.


aethyr


Jul 12, 2011, 10:47 PM
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erisspirit wrote:
my finger and grip strength definitely is stronger now, and that just came with more climbing. I for the most part disagree with your comment about pull strength being stronger though. I can BARELY do 2 pullups, and in most cases that doesn't limit me. What limits me is bad body tension, sloppy footwork, bad positioning etc. On a roof I use way more core tension and footwork than pull strength.

There is a reason most here are saying technique technique technique...

I don't feel that my pulling strength is my limiting factor. 1st, if you've seen my other thread on gloves, its, uh, my weak, girly skin that gives out before anything.

2nd its my finger/grip strength. Even on solid holds, on roofs, my fingers weaken just from hanging upside down...that is if the skin on my fingers don't wuss out first.

Damn it, all this talk is making me itch to get back to the climbing gym.


aethyr


Jul 12, 2011, 10:57 PM
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rnevius wrote:
aethyr wrote:
Yet even the mere act of hanging on a roof is challenging for beginners because of the inherent finger strength involved in holding up over 50% of your body weight by your finger tips.

Alright buddy, I'm done trying to offer advice. You obviously know it all. Just consider what part of your body is cutting from the wall...if you're landing on your feet, you may want to consider what is actually causing you to fall.

I don't know anything, but I want logic to prove my ignorance otherwise. You say technique, which I agree with, but I've played many sports and every sport has elements of technique and strength. NO SPORT is pure technique. And it seems to me that even doing basic things in rock climbing require a baseline level of strength to accomplish.

If I'm hanging on a roof, I can use technique to minimize the strength required, but is it false to claim that strength IS required and that strength may exceed the 2 week beginner?

As for my failures on my V2 roof, its not the fall that fails, its me. I simply drop down from fatigue. It transitions from a roof to a wall and by the time I get to the wall, I'm spent.

I want to add that I'm grateful for everyone's replies and advice and I'm taking them to heart. I question because I need to see the why and how. So I don't mean to offend.


(This post was edited by aethyr on Jul 12, 2011, 11:01 PM)


erisspirit


Jul 12, 2011, 11:00 PM
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aethyr wrote:
erisspirit wrote:
my finger and grip strength definitely is stronger now, and that just came with more climbing. I for the most part disagree with your comment about pull strength being stronger though. I can BARELY do 2 pullups, and in most cases that doesn't limit me. What limits me is bad body tension, sloppy footwork, bad positioning etc. On a roof I use way more core tension and footwork than pull strength.

There is a reason most here are saying technique technique technique...

I don't feel that my pulling strength is my limiting factor. 1st, if you've seen my other thread on gloves, its, uh, my weak, girly skin that gives out before anything.

2nd its my finger/grip strength. Even on solid holds, on roofs, my fingers weaken just from hanging upside down...that is if the skin on my fingers don't wuss out first.

Damn it, all this talk is making me itch to get back to the climbing gym.

you mentioned pull strength in this thread so I was responding.

feel free to ignore what everyone is saying to you... it's your climbing not mine... sounds like you are totally convinced of what you are missing, so good for you!

(btw - right now I have soft girly skin so I can't really give you that as an excuse Tongue)


erisspirit


Jul 12, 2011, 11:05 PM
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aethyr wrote:
rnevius wrote:
aethyr wrote:
Yet even the mere act of hanging on a roof is challenging for beginners because of the inherent finger strength involved in holding up over 50% of your body weight by your finger tips.

Alright buddy, I'm done trying to offer advice. You obviously know it all. Just consider what part of your body is cutting from the wall...if you're landing on your feet, you may want to consider what is actually causing you to fall.

I don't know anything, but I want logic to prove my ignorance otherwise. You say technique, which I agree with, but I've played many sports and every sport has elements of technique and strength. NO SPORT is pure technique. And it seems to me that even doing basic things in rock climbing require a baseline level of strength to accomplish.

If I'm hanging on a roof, I can use technique to minimize the strength required, but is it false to claim that strength IS required and that strength may exceed the 2 week beginner?

As for my failures on my V2 roof, its not the fall that fails, its me. I simply drop down from fatigue. It transitions from a roof to a wall and by the time I get to the wall, I'm spent.

I want to add that I'm grateful for everyone's replies and advice and I'm taking them to heart. I question because I need to see the why and how. So I don't mean to offend.

The part you aren't understanding is that as a beginner, your technique is the worst part despite what you think. As you work on that you get the grip strength required just by climbing more. When you hit the harder grades, then it might become the case that you may want strength training. At the level you are at, just climbing is giving you the workout you need.

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Forums : Climbing Information : Beginners

 


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