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Bailing sport climb w/o leaving any gear behind
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granite_grrl


Jul 22, 2011, 7:20 PM
Post #51 of 60 (4074 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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Re: [jakedatc] Bailing sport climb w/o leaving any gear behind [In reply to]
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jakedatc wrote:
Becs i've found 6-10 of these at Rumney and not one has been rusted or difficult to clean. There is plenty of room on a bolt (hanger and glue in) for both a quick link and a quickdraw.

The half dozen i have at the moment. 2 are WLL 1760lbs.. which are look pretty damn close to the 2 i have that are rated 25kn closed, 10kn crossloaded. the other i have is rated 22kn and thinner than the others. still fucking bomber.
I'm not sure why you're defending this practice. You want n00bs to think this is a good idea and carry it over to smaller areas that they might climb at? Not every area gets the same traffic as Rumney.


csproul


Jul 22, 2011, 7:49 PM
Post #52 of 60 (4069 views)
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
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Re: [granite_grrl] Bailing sport climb w/o leaving any gear behind [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
Becs i've found 6-10 of these at Rumney and not one has been rusted or difficult to clean. There is plenty of room on a bolt (hanger and glue in) for both a quick link and a quickdraw.

The half dozen i have at the moment. 2 are WLL 1760lbs.. which are look pretty damn close to the 2 i have that are rated 25kn closed, 10kn crossloaded. the other i have is rated 22kn and thinner than the others. still fucking bomber.
I'm not sure why you're defending this practice. You want n00bs to think this is a good idea and carry it over to smaller areas that they might climb at? Not every area gets the same traffic as Rumney.
I agree. It's annoying to worry about getting a draw into the hanger with those hunks of crap in the way. At best it's annoying, and at the worst (with a tight hanger, and the draw clipped above the quicklink) they can create a fulcrum over which the draw's carabiner becomes a lever, potentially loading the biner in an awkward way. And they're usually at the crux since that is where the person had to bail.


fnfolen


Jul 22, 2011, 7:52 PM
Post #53 of 60 (4069 views)
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Registered: Jul 20, 2011
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Re: [JoeHamilton] Bailing sport climb w/o leaving any gear behind [In reply to]
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JoeHamilton wrote:
Do not climb what you cant send

um lol?

He asked how not to leave gear behind, not how to be a mediocre climber ;)


bkb0000


Jul 23, 2011, 1:06 AM
Post #54 of 60 (4040 views)
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Registered: Jul 9, 2011
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Re: [jose32] Bailing sport climb w/o leaving any gear behind [In reply to]
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i just skimmed through, but i didn't see it mentioned... i always carry at least one $1 screw link on my gear loop. i can afford a $1 rap.


granite_grrl


Jul 23, 2011, 1:11 AM
Post #55 of 60 (4036 views)
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Re: [bkb0000] Bailing sport climb w/o leaving any gear behind [In reply to]
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bkb0000 wrote:
i just skimmed through, but i didn't see it mentioned... i always carry at least one $1 screw link on my gear loop. i can afford a $1 rap.
*faceplam*


bkb0000


Jul 23, 2011, 1:18 AM
Post #56 of 60 (4032 views)
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Registered: Jul 9, 2011
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Re: [granite_grrl] Bailing sport climb w/o leaving any gear behind [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
bkb0000 wrote:
i just skimmed through, but i didn't see it mentioned... i always carry at least one $1 screw link on my gear loop. i can afford a $1 rap.
*faceplam*

okok.. my bad. apparently i skipped page 2.


JoeHamilton


Jul 23, 2011, 2:36 AM
Post #57 of 60 (4017 views)
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Re: [fnfolen] Bailing sport climb w/o leaving any gear behind [In reply to]
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fnfolen wrote:
JoeHamilton wrote:
Do not climb what you cant send

um lol?

He asked how not to leave gear behind, not how to be a mediocre climber ;)

that was one of a few suggestions .A valid one too. If you dont send one you cant do you wont bail and leave anything behind .Rite?


chossmonkey


Jul 23, 2011, 5:00 PM
Post #58 of 60 (3988 views)
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
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Re: [darkgift06] Bailing sport climb w/o leaving any gear behind [In reply to]
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darkgift06 wrote:
I use one of these quick links....
[image]http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/336760_lg.jpg[/image]
there about $1-2 & at any hardware store you can find.

Also. after a year or 2 of climbing I'm sure you will find multiple bail biners & make them yours. I Tend have at least one bail biner on my harness all the time, plus using one to hold my chalk bag to my harness. which makes 2.



I seem to only find shitty hardware store quick links that aren't good for anything but going in the trash.


chossmonkey


Jul 23, 2011, 5:13 PM
Post #59 of 60 (3982 views)
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Re: [JoeHamilton] Bailing sport climb w/o leaving any gear behind [In reply to]
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JoeHamilton wrote:
fnfolen wrote:
JoeHamilton wrote:
Do not climb what you cant send

um lol?

He asked how not to leave gear behind, not how to be a mediocre climber ;)

that was one of a few suggestions .A valid one too. If you dont send one you cant do you wont bail and leave anything behind .Rite?

Yes, but the object of sportclimbing is to climb hard for you routes.

How do you ever find out what a hard for you route is without getting on them?

What do you do if you don't know the grade?

What do you do if the grades are jacked or you are climbing really well?

So many people poo-poo stickclips. They don't understand them, and likely don't understand sport climbing either.


JoeHamilton


Jul 23, 2011, 5:50 PM
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Re: [chossmonkey] Bailing sport climb w/o leaving any gear behind [In reply to]
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It is so hard to tell when a joke is made via the Internet. That one suggestion was a joke. If the rest of the suggestion didn't make that seem clear "my bad". OF-course one needs and should push them self. My intended point was when you see a cool trick like that, maybe ask the person who did it rite then. They might take ten minutes of there day and SHOW YOU.(see the caps just raised my voice to emphasize a point) Also the point of that statement was if you are worried about bailing on a route and loosing a piece of gear maybe you should top rope it as a second first. It is the Internet and interpretation is ruff.

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