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justroberto
Dec 8, 2010, 4:57 PM
Post #26 of 39
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cruxstacean wrote: So has anybody every fallen on a back clipped draw and had the rope unclip? USA climbing comps allow climbers to backclip so some people think it is not particularly risky...
Gumby 1 leads up, backclips, and then Gumbies 2, 3, and 4 on the ground start frantically yelling up at him that he's done so and he's going to die. Gumby 1 starts to freak out a little bit, can't figure out what he's done wrong. He starts sketching, and yet he still takes the rope back out of the draw in an attempt to correct his mistake, feet skittering and hands oozing off his holds in certain groundfall territory. Eventually he clips it back in and takes on the rope, only to have Gumbies 2, 3, and 4 yell up that he's still backclipped.
Now he's sitting there, pumped and looking completely dumbfounded while his his friends try to tell him how to fix it, all yelling up different ideas, confusing him further. He gets back on the rock, sketches hard, and unclips the rope from the draw again, and the cycle begins again.
Sadly, I actually saw this happen on a mid-11 route a few weeks ago. The kids shouted hilariously at each other for over an hour, with two of them attempting to fix it multiple times. Every time they tried, they fucked it up even worse.
I'll leave it up for debate which one is actually more dangerous - backclipping and not knowing it, or doing it and then trying to fix it.
(This post was edited by justroberto on Dec 8, 2010, 6:10 PM)
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rocknice2
Dec 8, 2010, 8:17 PM
Post #28 of 39
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j_ung wrote: Besides, clipping correctly is so unbelievably easy...
Totally true.
There are only 2 clips. Gate facing towards you and gate facing away. each require a different technique. It's second nature like driving a 4 speed transmission. Nobody thinks 'push clutch, shit gear, release clutch'. You just slam it home.
I would have to try hard to backclip.
I guess there are 4 clips. Gate to & away and the mirror of that.
(This post was edited by rocknice2 on Dec 8, 2010, 8:21 PM)
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spikeddem
Dec 8, 2010, 8:22 PM
Post #29 of 39
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rocknice2 wrote: Once you got it down it's like driving a 4 speed transmission going to the bathroom (?). Nobody thinks 'push clutch, shit gear, release clutch'. You just slam it home.
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rocknice2
Dec 9, 2010, 1:20 AM
Post #30 of 39
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LOL
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LostinMaine
Dec 9, 2010, 1:30 PM
Post #31 of 39
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rocknice2 wrote: Nobody thinks 'push clutch, shit gear, release clutch'. You just slam it home.
Made my morning. Thank you.
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jbro_135
Dec 10, 2010, 3:21 AM
Post #32 of 39
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spikeddem wrote: rocknice2 wrote: Once you got it down it's like driving a 4 speed transmission going to the bathroom (?). Nobody thinks 'push clutch, shit gear, release clutch'. You just slam it home.
when you're on a wall you're constantly thinking about shit gear
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Colinhoglund
Dec 10, 2010, 6:53 AM
Post #33 of 39
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rocknice2 wrote: Nobody thinks 'push clutch, shit gear, release clutch'. You just slam it home.
I've heard of shitting bricks, but thats something altogether new. All new meaning to the saying "pulling it out of your ass".
Frick I need another #3 . . .
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ablanchard17
Jul 24, 2011, 6:19 PM
Post #34 of 39
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When you clip a piece of protection ( bolt or other ) the rope should be coming from the face of the rock out of the carabiner and to you
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patto
Jul 24, 2011, 6:47 PM
Post #35 of 39
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Registered: Nov 15, 2005
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dbogardus wrote: Considering back clipping is one of the first things you should learn to prevent, I don't understand why you'd "not care".
I would think that teaching sport climbers how to communicate and lower or rappel safely would be far more beneficial considering the number of accidents.
Teaching trad climbing back clipping is something I mention almost as an after thought. (Most of the people I teach trad, have never sport climbed.)
The most important thing is just to think "what is keeping me safe NOW". Following that thought if there is one biner between me and death I want it to be a screw gate.
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ceebo
Jul 24, 2011, 10:12 PM
Post #36 of 39
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justroberto wrote: cruxstacean wrote: So has anybody every fallen on a back clipped draw and had the rope unclip? USA climbing comps allow climbers to backclip so some people think it is not particularly risky... I'm sure it happens once in a blue moon. You know what I see far more frequently? Gumby 1 leads up, backclips, and then Gumbies 2, 3, and 4 on the ground start frantically yelling up at him that he's done so and he's going to die. Gumby 1 starts to freak out a little bit, can't figure out what he's done wrong. He starts sketching, and yet he still takes the rope back out of the draw in an attempt to correct his mistake, feet skittering and hands oozing off his holds in certain groundfall territory. Eventually he clips it back in and takes on the rope, only to have Gumbies 2, 3, and 4 yell up that he's still backclipped. Now he's sitting there, pumped and looking completely dumbfounded while his his friends try to tell him how to fix it, all yelling up different ideas, confusing him further. He gets back on the rock, sketches hard, and unclips the rope from the draw again, and the cycle begins again. Sadly, I actually saw this happen on a mid-11 route a few weeks ago. The kids shouted hilariously at each other for over an hour, with two of them attempting to fix it multiple times. Every time they tried, they fucked it up even worse. I'll leave it up for debate which one is actually more dangerous - backclipping and not knowing it, or doing it and then trying to fix it.
If 4 kids were playing with a loaded gun would you just watch that too?.
Your the only gumby i see here...
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justroberto
Jul 25, 2011, 5:51 AM
Post #37 of 39
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Registered: Feb 21, 2006
Posts: 1876
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ceebo wrote: justroberto wrote: cruxstacean wrote: So has anybody every fallen on a back clipped draw and had the rope unclip? USA climbing comps allow climbers to backclip so some people think it is not particularly risky... I'm sure it happens once in a blue moon. You know what I see far more frequently? Gumby 1 leads up, backclips, and then Gumbies 2, 3, and 4 on the ground start frantically yelling up at him that he's done so and he's going to die. Gumby 1 starts to freak out a little bit, can't figure out what he's done wrong. He starts sketching, and yet he still takes the rope back out of the draw in an attempt to correct his mistake, feet skittering and hands oozing off his holds in certain groundfall territory. Eventually he clips it back in and takes on the rope, only to have Gumbies 2, 3, and 4 yell up that he's still backclipped. Now he's sitting there, pumped and looking completely dumbfounded while his his friends try to tell him how to fix it, all yelling up different ideas, confusing him further. He gets back on the rock, sketches hard, and unclips the rope from the draw again, and the cycle begins again. Sadly, I actually saw this happen on a mid-11 route a few weeks ago. The kids shouted hilariously at each other for over an hour, with two of them attempting to fix it multiple times. Every time they tried, they fucked it up even worse. I'll leave it up for debate which one is actually more dangerous - backclipping and not knowing it, or doing it and then trying to fix it. If 4 kids were playing with a loaded gun would you just watch that too?. Your the only gumby i see here...
Four things that never cease to amaze me:
1) Responses to seven-month old posts;
2) Wholly-irrelevant-analogy posts;
3) The combination of items 1 and 2.
4) Idiotic misunderstanding of the blatant difference between "your" and "you're", despite the pedantic objections of half the people on the internets.
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patto
Jul 25, 2011, 9:26 AM
Post #38 of 39
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Registered: Nov 15, 2005
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ceebo wrote: If 4 kids were playing with a loaded gun would you just watch that too?. Your the only gumby i see here...
justroberto wrote: I'll leave it up for debate which one is actually more dangerous - backclipping and not knowing it, or doing it and then trying to fix it.
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JoeHamilton
Jul 25, 2011, 3:23 PM
Post #39 of 39
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Registered: Jul 16, 2011
Posts: 815
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justroberto wrote: ceebo wrote: justroberto wrote: cruxstacean wrote: So has anybody every fallen on a back clipped draw and had the rope unclip? USA climbing comps allow climbers to backclip so some people think it is not particularly risky... I'm sure it happens once in a blue moon. You know what I see far more frequently? Gumby 1 leads up, backclips, and then Gumbies 2, 3, and 4 on the ground start frantically yelling up at him that he's done so and he's going to die. Gumby 1 starts to freak out a little bit, can't figure out what he's done wrong. He starts sketching, and yet he still takes the rope back out of the draw in an attempt to correct his mistake, feet skittering and hands oozing off his holds in certain groundfall territory. Eventually he clips it back in and takes on the rope, only to have Gumbies 2, 3, and 4 yell up that he's still backclipped. Now he's sitting there, pumped and looking completely dumbfounded while his his friends try to tell him how to fix it, all yelling up different ideas, confusing him further. He gets back on the rock, sketches hard, and unclips the rope from the draw again, and the cycle begins again. Sadly, I actually saw this happen on a mid-11 route a few weeks ago. The kids shouted hilariously at each other for over an hour, with two of them attempting to fix it multiple times. Every time they tried, they fucked it up even worse. I'll leave it up for debate which one is actually more dangerous - backclipping and not knowing it, or doing it and then trying to fix it. If 4 kids were playing with a loaded gun would you just watch that too?. Your the only gumby i see here... Four things that never cease to amaze me: 1) Responses to seven-month old posts; 2) Wholly-irrelevant-analogy posts; 3) The combination of items 1 and 2. 4) Idiotic misunderstanding of the blatant difference between "your" and "you're", despite the pedantic objections of half the people on the internets.
Responding the the list at bottom,1)some of us just want to learn so we read and inadvertently post,or see the NEW tab pop up and it gets the thread going again. 4) ahhhh, so I am not the only one with poor grammar and spelling around here,cool.thanx for using 4 to show example of 2.
Seriously this thread was very informative for me, I would agree if I am two bolts past the one I see is wrong, I would trust the last two and not lower down to fix the one bad. I try my best to take a second and double check before moving on, a lot like anticipating a fall direction
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