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Marylandclimber
Dec 10, 2011, 5:30 PM
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When you get to the top of a pitch or climb after leading it, can you make an anchor not attached to you and then clip it the GriRGi 2 and belay the climber from ABOVE? Like having the anchor directly clipped to it and run the rope through it and pull the slack through as he climbs? Or would that not work?
Thanks to any replies!
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JimTitt
Dec 10, 2011, 5:47 PM
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Yes
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Marylandclimber
Dec 10, 2011, 9:22 PM
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thanks I wanted to make sure.
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jt512
Dec 10, 2011, 10:02 PM
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Marylandclimber wrote: thanks I wanted to make sure.
Your question is covered in the on-line materials on Petzl's website. You must insure that nothing can interfere with the cam of the Grigri, and you must never build the anchor such that the Grigri is on the ground, where debris could get into the device. There has been a fatality caused by this, when a rope was severed, apparently by sharp debris that go into the Grigri.
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6pacfershur
Dec 11, 2011, 2:07 AM
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jt512 wrote: Marylandclimber wrote: thanks I wanted to make sure. There has been a fatality caused by this, when a rope was severed, apparently by sharp debris that go into the Grigri.
please provide documentation/link for this claim....
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jt512
Dec 11, 2011, 3:51 AM
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6pacfershur wrote: jt512 wrote: Marylandclimber wrote: thanks I wanted to make sure. There has been a fatality caused by this, when a rope was severed, apparently by sharp debris that go into the Grigri. please provide documentation/link for this claim....
It would take each of the same amount of effort to do the search. So, if you're interested, you can Google it for yourself.
Jay
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6pacfershur
Dec 11, 2011, 6:04 AM
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jt512 wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: jt512 wrote: Marylandclimber wrote: thanks I wanted to make sure. There has been a fatality caused by this, when a rope was severed, apparently by sharp debris that go into the Grigri. please provide documentation/link for this claim....
It would take each of the same amount of effort to do the search. So, if you're interested, you can Google it for yourself.
Jay
thats what i thought you would say; if you are going to spray about an alledged grigri-induced fatality, back it up....
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rightarmbad
Dec 11, 2011, 6:19 AM
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And if you are going to all HIM a liar, back it up.
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jt512
Dec 11, 2011, 6:26 AM
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6pacfershur wrote: jt512 wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: jt512 wrote: Marylandclimber wrote: thanks I wanted to make sure. There has been a fatality caused by this, when a rope was severed, apparently by sharp debris that go[t] into the Grigri. please provide documentation/link for this claim.... It would take each of [us] the same amount of effort to do the search. So, if you're interested, you can Google it for yourself. Jay thats what i thought you would say; if you are going to spray about an alledged grigri-induced fatality, back it up....
I have no idea why you think I would make something like that up, but that's your problem.
Jay
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Marylandclimber
Dec 11, 2011, 3:15 PM
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Really? I'll be sure to not do that now lol.
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billcoe_
Dec 11, 2011, 5:33 PM
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JT512 is right about that.
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6pacfershur
Dec 11, 2011, 5:36 PM
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jt512 wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: jt512 wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: jt512 wrote: Marylandclimber wrote: thanks I wanted to make sure. There has been a fatality caused by this, when a rope was severed, apparently by sharp debris that go[t] into the Grigri. please provide documentation/link for this claim.... It would take each of [us] the same amount of effort to do the search. So, if you're interested, you can Google it for yourself. Jay thats what i thought you would say; if you are going to spray about an alledged grigri-induced fatality, back it up.... I have no idea why you think I would make something like that up, but that's your problem. Jay
im not accusing you of being a liar, nor of making this up....every climber has probably heard the-rock-got-caught-in-the-grigri-and-cut-the-rope-and-the-climber-died-story; if you're going to cite that in a post, show some accountability and provide us with evidence that the event happened
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jt512
Dec 11, 2011, 5:56 PM
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6pacfershur wrote: jt512 wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: jt512 wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: jt512 wrote: Marylandclimber wrote: thanks I wanted to make sure. There has been a fatality caused by this, when a rope was severed, apparently by sharp debris that go[t] into the Grigri. please provide documentation/link for this claim.... It would take each of [us] the same amount of effort to do the search. So, if you're interested, you can Google it for yourself. Jay thats what i thought you would say; if you are going to spray about an alledged grigri-induced fatality, back it up.... I have no idea why you think I would make something like that up, but that's your problem. Jay im not accusing you of being a liar, nor of making this up....every climber has probably heard the-rock-got-caught-in-the-grigri-and-cut-the-rope-and-the-climber-died-story; if you're going to cite that in a post, show some accountability and provide us with evidence that the event happened
In the time that you've spent arguing that it's my responsibility to dig up the accident analysis, you could have done so yourself.
As it is, you have four choices: (1) you can take my word for it; (2) you can be skeptical and not believe me; (3) you can remain skeptical but err on the side of caution, and act as if it were true, just in case; or (4) you can search for the accident report.
But I have no stake in this, so I have no responsibility to do the search. I've done my part in alerting you and others to an unobvious potential danger. Whether you heed that warning, ignore it, or investigate it for yourself is up to you.
Jay
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sp115
Dec 12, 2011, 1:13 AM
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Thanks, that is worth reading.
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Marylandclimber
Dec 14, 2011, 10:31 PM
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But your saying that little dirt and fragment pieces get caught in the "gears" and it like stops working? Can you clean it with water after every climb to prevent that?
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jt512
Dec 14, 2011, 10:56 PM
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Marylandclimber wrote: But your saying that little dirt and fragment pieces get caught in the "gears" and it like stops working? Can you clean it with water after every climb to prevent that?
No, I'm not saying that. I'm saying that there has been a fatality that was apparently caused by a sharp fragment of rock that got into the channel in the grigri where the rope runs and severed the rope under tension.
You can prevent that from happening by keeping the grigri off the ground when belaying—you remember, the comment I made above that you laughed at.
Jay
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njrox
Dec 14, 2011, 11:41 PM
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I've noticed that within the channel of my grigri there's a lot of rope-groove wear and wear "spots". Could the "spots" be from rock fragments?
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sandstone
Dec 15, 2011, 12:28 AM
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jt512 wrote: ...sharp fragment of rock that got into the channel in the grigri where the rope runs and severed the rope under tension....You can prevent that from happening by keeping the grigri off the ground ...
Also be vigilant about debris if you rap down to clean new routes. Keep debris out of your rap device, and shake/wipe debris off your rope before you rap on down to clean the next section.
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acorneau
Dec 15, 2011, 2:09 AM
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njrox wrote: I've noticed that within the channel of my grigri there's a lot of rope-groove wear and wear "spots". Could the "spots" be from rock fragments?
In a way, yes.
Most likely the rope has picked up dirt and dust on the sheath and has become like a round sandpaper.
Washing your rope occasionally will help prevent this.
(This post was edited by acorneau on Dec 15, 2011, 2:10 AM)
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njrox
Dec 15, 2011, 1:57 PM
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Makes sense. I was suprised to see how worn it is already. I've only had it since March. I've attached a picture. There's no sharp points, everything is smooth. But you can see some spots are very worn. Does anyone know if petzl replaces the plate?
(This post was edited by njrox on Dec 15, 2011, 1:58 PM)
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grigri.JPG
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acorneau
Dec 15, 2011, 2:10 PM
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That's just the anodizing wearing off and shouldn't cause any real concern.
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njrox
Dec 15, 2011, 4:31 PM
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ah, I see. ok. thanks.
yeah, and like I said there aren't any sharp points throughout the wear that I'm worried about coming into contact with my rope.
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Marylandclimber
Dec 15, 2011, 8:16 PM
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I never laughed at it that wasn't me. But okay thanks for the advice about it on the ground.
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