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blueeyedclimber
Dec 22, 2011, 2:18 PM
Post #1 of 17
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
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With the year winding down and 2012 looming, it’s come that time to think about the year we had and what we look to accomplish over the next 12 months. I have done a thread like this before, but one new thing I kept track of this year, was number of days climbing. Combined ice and rock days, I averaged just over 1 day per week. Not bad, but I’d like to get out even more next year. I didn’t have my strongest year, although I did start to turn it on a little in the Fall. Here are my stats. Some of it’s spray. You were warned.
Areas Visited
- The Gunks, NY
- North Conway, NH
- Rumney, NH
- Cannon Mt., NH
- Acadia, ME
- Farley ledges, MA
- Rose Ledge, MA
- Ragged Mt., CT
- Tuolumne Meadows, CA
- Red Rocks, NV
- San Diego, CA
- Kinsman Notch, NH
- Champney Falls, NH
Number of Days out
- Rock - 50 days
- Ice - 6 days
Best sends (This may or may not be your hardest sends in each discipline, but your most proudest. As we all know, grades are subjective). Feel free to add a bouldering and/or ice category.
- Trad onsight: I couldn’t choose just one, so here are some climbs I am particularly proud of: The West Pillar of Einchorn Pinnacle, 5.9, Tuolumne. Crescent Arch, 5.10b, Tuolumne. Ethereal Crack, 5.10d, Cathedral Ledge. Perhaps my proudest though, is VMC direct direct, although we had to bail due to a slower party, but I onsighted everything up through the fifth pitch.
- Trad redpoint: Carbs and Caffeine, 5.11a, The Gunks
- Sport onsight: Wedgie, 5.12a, Red Rocks
- Sport redpoint: Technosurfing, 5.12b, Rumney
Injuries
- None to speak of. Except maybe to my ego from time to time.
Partners
- My favorite of course is my lovely wife, Tiffany, aka WonderWoman. I also climbed with Max, Rob, Reggie, Tim, Mike, Jay and Jake (I hope I’m not forgetting anyone). This does not include numerous gym partners.
New Skills
- This was my first season getting out more than once on ice, so I would like to think I picked up a bunch of skills there. Other than that I didn’t really try to learn anything new this year. I just wanted to climb.
New Gear
- Ice climbing boots. La Sportiva Eno Nepal
- Link Cams
Favorite climbs
- Blown Away, 5.9, Tuolumne Meadows
- Crescent Arch, 5.10b, Tuolumne Meadows
- VMC direct direct, 5.10 +, Cannon Mt.
- West Pillar, 5.9, Tuolumne Meadows
- Unimpeachable Groping, 5.10b, Red Rocks
- Carbs and Caffeine, 5.11a, The Gunks
Most Memorable moment(s)
- Topping out on Einchorn Pinnacle with Tiff was pretty cool.
- Totally blowing the approach to Levitation 29, taking 6.5 hours to get to the base.
- Pitch 3 of VMC direct direct. It was SO good, I almost cried.
- Easily redpointing Carbs and Caffeine and thinking that maybe I am ready to attempt Yellow Wall.
Goals for Next Year
- Attempt Yellow Wall
- Go to Thailand
- Starting training for the Nose
- Finish the last few pitches of VMC direct direct
Come spray with me!
Josh
eidted to add: Goals for next year.
(This post was edited by blueeyedclimber on Dec 23, 2011, 12:30 PM)
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yodadave
Dec 22, 2011, 3:58 PM
Post #2 of 17
(4714 views)
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Registered: Feb 11, 2008
Posts: 510
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Areas Visited
- Rumbling Bald NC
- Looking Glass NC
- Various WNC boulders
- Sandrock AL
- Copperhead rock TN
- Horsepens AL
- J Tree CA
- Malibu Creek CA
- Stoney Point CA
- Texas Canyon CA
- Devils Punchbowl CA
- Yosemite CA
Number of Days Out
~50
Best Sends
some 11 with the wife
North side of Looking glass trad magic
opening a new highball in NC
almost getting a boulder enema in Malibu creek
Injuries
i got fat, i think it counts as an injury
Partners
the wife, TC, Mr Bill, T Clem and lots of others, i appreciated every single one.
New Skills
falling on gear
wiring my TR solo system
New Gear
draws mislabeled for a massive discount
1 big cam
new shoes 50% off who could resist
microscender, Love it!
Goals
as ever get back in shape
get out tradding
train on my new woodie
get back to 12s
send 5s again
a little lackluster in the spray department. I really don't remember many routes i do sorry ;)
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Dip
Dec 22, 2011, 4:22 PM
Post #3 of 17
(4701 views)
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Registered: Jun 16, 2009
Posts: 270
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Areas Visited
-Gunks, NY
-Seneca, WV
-Franklin, WV
-Red River Gorge, KY
-Red Rocks, NV
-Joshua Tree, CA
-Rumney, NH
-Cannon, NH
-Various PA places that don't really count as areas visited because i live here
Number of Days Out
34
Best Sends
Some obscure V5 in PA (it eluded me for a long time)
Every pitch i led on Levitation 29
The Finger of Fate and The Triangle Roof on Moby Grape
The Dangler
Injuries
I caught Lyme on my wedding day. Remarkably that's the only thing close to an injury that happened this year
Partners
A slew of 'em, none of which frequent this website
New Skills
falling on gear
I wish i could say crack climbing but it continues to elude me
Favorite Climbs
Levitation 29-Red Rocks
Moby Grape-Cannon
The Dangler-Gunks
Son of Easy O-Gunks
CCK-Gunks
West Pole-Seneca
Gunsight to South Peak-Seneca
Most Memorable Moments
-The approach to and retreat from Lev 29
-Not being able to find the descent trail for Moby Grape and spending the night shivering behind a rock on top of the mountain
-Meeting some cool folks at the Gunks who made the ride home a lot better
New Gear
Rope, cams, shoes, slings, crashpad
Goals For Next Year
5 5.10 Trad sends
LEARN TO CRACK CLIMB
Send a V7 outside
Finally get on Modern damn Times
Send 3 5.12 sport climbs
Edited to add favorite climbs and memorable moments
(This post was edited by Dip on Dec 22, 2011, 6:45 PM)
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Gmburns2000
Dec 22, 2011, 4:35 PM
Post #4 of 17
(4697 views)
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
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Areas Visited
- Various locations in Central Chile
- Various locations in the state of Parana, Brasil
- 'Gunks
- North Conway
- Cannon
- Rumney
- Acadia
- Farley
Number of Days Out
Not sure. There were times when I didn't climb for weeks and there were times when I did climb for weeks, so I can't really be sure. If I had to guess, it'd be around 60 or 70.
Best Sends
- Gracias a la Vida (my first FA)
- P1 of Chitlin's Corner in Acadia (P2 was wet, not that I would have sent it anyway, but I wanted to get on it)
Injuries
Broke my toe last February, and that kept me out of action for about two months.
Partners
Henry, Armando, the late Arrogant Bastard (sniff), and Vinny in Chile.
Nivea, Isa, Diogo, Daniel, and Aranha in Brasil
N/A and his minions, Chris, Kurt, Rachel, Mel, Rob, and Millie in U.S.
New Skills
Placing bolts
New Gear
New rope and some draws
Goals
Get in better shape
Bring along some newbie climbers
Learn to pull the crux 10 feet above the last piece (commonplace here in Southeastern Brasil)
Nab that first 5.10 trad lead
edit: editing is weak
(This post was edited by Gmburns2000 on Dec 22, 2011, 4:37 PM)
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dagibbs
Dec 22, 2011, 6:21 PM
Post #5 of 17
(4654 views)
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Registered: Oct 1, 2007
Posts: 921
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Areas Visited
- Montagne d'Argent, Quebec
- The Adirondacks, NY
- Mont Rigaud, Quebec,
- Calabogie, Ontario
- Lac Sam, Quebec
- Eardley Escarpment/Gatineaus - Quebec
Number of Days out
Not sure, didn't count. First day out was mid-March. Last day out was November 27th. For Ottawa, that's a LONG season.
At least 34 days on which I've recorded a new route climbed, or a route climbed in a better style. Probably in the 40-50 range.
Best sends
Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle (Lac Sam) - my first FA
Trad FA - bottom to top at Lac Sam. 2 25m or so pitches, a shorter (8m?) pitch, and scrambling in between.
A few other FAs at Lac Sam
Injuries
Not this year.
Partners
Kate and Celine were my most regular partners over the year. On top of that, a rotating group of other local climbers for different days and different trips.
New Skills
- starting to learn to judge what will/won't go when looking at not-previously climbed rock
New Gear
Not a lot this year:
- a couple hexes
- a biggish tri-cam
[edit] and a Mammut 10.0 Galaxy 60m rope for Christmas [/edit]
Favourite Climbs
- Gothic Arch, Gothics south face, Adirondacks, NY
- Peggy, Home Cliff, Gatineau Hills, Quebec
- Colonel Kirtz, Montagne d'Argent, Quebec
- Regular Route, Chapel Pond Slab, Adirondacks, NY
Most Memorable moment(s)
- unplanned overnight bivy on Gothic Arch; a bit of an epic, the approach was far longer than expected, this included leading a traverse on gear in the dark, placing pieces by feel. Was with Kate, Celine, and Jonathan.
Goals for Next Year
- get better at crack climbing. In particular stop being scared of ripping all the skin off my hands if anything goes wrong, and getting over the fear of the pain.
- travel to more distant places for climbing. (EPC is on my list!)
- climb more, climb better
- continue to work on improving my lead head
(This post was edited by dagibbs on Dec 26, 2011, 2:16 AM)
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Scooter12ga
Dec 22, 2011, 6:42 PM
Post #6 of 17
(4644 views)
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Registered: May 6, 2008
Posts: 65
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Areas Visited
-Lower Sandia Mountains, NM
-Upper Sandia Mountains, NM
-Diablo Canyon, NM
-White Rock, NM
-Tres Piedras, NM
-Boulder Canyon, CO
-Eldorado Canyon, CO
-Red Rocks, NV (Spring AND Fall)
-Leavenworth, WA
-Washington Pass, WA
-J Tree
Number of Days Out
~60+
Best Sends
-Cold day in hell 5.8, my first 5.8 trad OS!
-Gemstone 5.8, the 'old man' and my friend both fell on TR following, I guess my crack technique is finally getting better.
-Lotta Balls 5.8
-Outerspace 5.9, classic - 'nuff said.
-Beckey Route 5.6, best summit ever!
-4th pitch of Triassic Sands 5.10a?, first time following 5.10 completely under my own power (Ok, I fell once, but otherwise climbed it clean without a tight belay, etc...)
-Proposing to my wife at the top of Tunnel Vision 5.7, ring box chocked like a tricam into the wide crack on the final ledge.
-Marrying her in September, at 11,000' ASL.
Injuries
Plantar Fasciitis made approaches 'fun.'
Partners
-My girlfriend, fiancee, and wife...all in the same year.
-My best friend since 2nd grade and Washington rope-gun, Chris DM.
-My best friend since high school, Andy F (and his wife.)
-My 8 y/o son, sent his first multi-pitch this fall, and even trailed a rope for the other guy.
-My original mentor, Terry M. Told me "there's nothing more I can teach you about leading, gear, ropework, and anchors." Though he still has a lot to teach me about technique as I set my sights on '10s.
-Jay A, always the 'good cop' when I get discouraged by a hard route (i.e. everything I tried in J Tree)
New Skills
Learning to trust open hand technique, i.e. palming beach-ball-radius slopers.
"Drilling" my toe into/onto tiny holds.
Ah-ha moment: Chris - "Suck your nuts up to the F'ing wall! Do it now!! Closer!! See how much weight just came off your arms."
Being comfortable on runouts with sparse and 'creative' pro. (Mama Jugs, Rawlpindi, One Armed Bandit...ya, I'm talking about you guys.)
New Gear
New rope, tibloc, couple finger sized cams.
Goals
Lose 10 lbs
Keep running
5.9 AND 5.9+ OS, Washington-style.
Follow 10c, maybe not clean, but definitely no frenchies.
OS something, anything, harder than 5.7 in JT...
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njrox
Dec 22, 2011, 6:59 PM
Post #7 of 17
(4625 views)
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Registered: May 12, 2011
Posts: 251
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Areas Visited
- The Gunks and Peter’s Kill NY
- Catskills, NY (ice)
- Burlington, VT (ice)
- NJ and PA Crags and Cliffs
- Access Sensitive Area, NJ (involved with local officials and Access Fund to resolve issues)
Number of Days out
- Rock – aprx. 30 days
- Ice - 2 days
Best sends
Little Shop of Horrors, 5.8 (pretty decent sized ceiling crux). Hardest grade that I climbed successfully.
Unnamed 5.7 (crux is the boulder-like start below an overhang, then on to a very clean slab). My best technical climb.
Injuries
- None, thank God.
Partners
- My Wife became pregnant after our early 2011 Ice outings and delivered a healthy boy in November! A good friend’s brother and I became the best of friends by becoming climbing partners and I found another great partner and good friend via RC.com!
New Skills
- This was my first year climbing (two climbs in fall of 2010 with guides). Learned how to TR and place rock protection. On the cusp of leading…maybe before the end of the year?
New Gear
- EVERYTHING! I mean like, everything.
Favorite climbs
- Triumvirate, 5.4, first multi-pitch
- Breakfast Wall at Peter’s Kill
Most Memorable moment(s)
- My first TR anchor (and being too scared to climb more than 10 feet!)
- My first gear only anchor (only five bomber cams!)
Goals for Next Year
- Balance Fatherhood with Climbing
- Climbing with my wife again!
- Consistency
- Improve to 5.9/5.10
- LEAD
- Lots of ice
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cracklover
Dec 22, 2011, 8:00 PM
Post #8 of 17
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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I always like these year-end threads. Usually it's a nice chance for a little sprayathon.
Not this time.
My year in climbing was marked mostly by nagging back troubles, and then a blown finger pulley, that each sidelined my climbing for about four months. By disappointment around goals that never got attempted, and goals that were attempted and failed. By lack of motivation, and inability to focus. And worst of all, by the loss one of my favorite partners, who moved away.
Despite all that, I got some good climbing in, and some very nice days with good friends.
Areas Visited
- North Table, CO
- Shelf Rd, CO
- Indian Creek, UT
- Turkey Rocks, CO
- Colorado National Monument, CO
- Clear Creek, CO
- Eldorado Canyon, CO
- The Flatirons, CO
- Red Rocks, NV
- Bucksnort Slab, CO
Number of Days out
roughly 40-50 days
Best sends
- Trad onsight: Slot Machine, 5.10c - Red Rocks; The Inhabitants, 5.11c - Indian Creek
- Trad redpoint: Coyne Crack, 5.11+/12- - Indian Creek
- Sport: Nada
Injuries
- Finger, back. Finger is now 95%. Back - ???
New Skills
- None
Favorite climbs
- Slot Machine, 5.10c - Red Rocks; Petit Grepon - RMNP
Most Memorable moment(s)
- Bailing off the Petit in an impending snowstorm.
- Hearing my finger go "snap" and the dawning realization that my climbing season is over.
- Screwing up my gear again! And in the same way! On Quarter of a Man.
- Hearing my partner tell me he has plans to do an FA I thought we were doing together, with someone else.
- Warm, wonderful, relaxing days of climbing in Red Rocks with my wife.
Goals for Next Year
- Don't get injured, and do something about nagging back problems.
- Lots of other stuff contingent on that ^^^
GO
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eric_k
Dec 22, 2011, 9:15 PM
Post #9 of 17
(4585 views)
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Registered: Jan 27, 2006
Posts: 190
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Best year yet for me, I got a ton of traveling in. All areas listed were new to me, and now that I am living in Europe I hope to get many more new areas in.
Areas Visited
Wookie Wall AK
Eklutna Canyon AK (Ice)
Mt. Baker WA (Alpine)
Mt. Rainier WA (Alpine)
Index WA
Squamish BC
Moab UT
Queen Creek AZ
The Pit AZ
Shelf Road CO
Garden of the Gods CO
Lumpy Ridge CO
Wild Iris WY
Sinks Canyon WY
Freyr Belgium
Interlaken Switzerland
Siurana Spain
Number of Days Out
I am not sure but it was not quite enough
Best Sends
Liberty Ridge Rainier, was caught in a blizzard near the top and ended up running out of food, water, fuel while waiting out the storm
Kidnaped with the Alien 12a, my first clean 12a redpoint in moab
Per tutatis 12a, 45 meter super pitch in Siurana which was simply the best piece of rock I have ever been on.
Injuries
-popped a pinkey tendon, I never heard of anyone doing that before I did it
Partners
My wife started climbing this year, many more good times to come
New Skills
I learned how to tunnel through cornices!
New Gear
I finaly got a set of petzl draws and I love them
I also got the new petzl quarks which are great
Favorite Climbs
Anicent Art in moab was pretty cool
Vudo Guru 11d at Exit 32 WA was my first 11d onsight. The route runs heads up a perfect corner and is another 50 meter super pitch (those are my favorites)
Most Memorable Moment
Trying to sleep while our tent was being buried in snow on the top of Rainier
Getting my wife on her first climb, I was very proud to see how far someone who is deathly afraid of heights has come.
Goals for next year
12a onsights regularly
Ceuse, Frankenjura, Kalymnos
Getting my wife on a more than one pitch off the ground
Keep having fun!
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shockabuku
Dec 22, 2011, 9:22 PM
Post #10 of 17
(4581 views)
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Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
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Thanks for this - now I realize what a lame ass year it's been.
Areas Visited
- The Gunks, NY
- Tensleep Canyon, WY
- Poudre Canyon, CO
- Flatirons, CO
- Big Thompson Canyon, CO
- Powerlines, NJ
- PI Wall, NY
Number of Days out
- Rock - ~20 days
- Plastic - 100+ days
Best sends My "most proudest"
- Trad onsight: pitch 1, MF, 5.9, The Gunks
- Trad redpoint: Lost City Crack, 5.10, ~The Gunks, 2nd try.
- Sport redpoint: Tool Man, 5.11c, Poudre Canyon, sent first go after falling off of it a couple times about 2 years ago.
Injuries
- Four broken ribs and one broken branch - all at once.
Partners
- My partner in absence, Elly, returned from Italy this year so I got to climb with her again which was great, also my son Buddy, and two younger daughters Emily and Abby, Mauri, James, Duncan, Neil, Dawes and Peg, Sue, Adam, Mike, and Katie outside, and sometimes inside, and additionally Solar, Tex, Christina and a few others inside.
New Skills
- No real new skills but I did revive some rusty trad climbing skills. Still working on reviving my confidence in my gear.
New Gear
- Some new Camalots, black and blue Master Cams, some slings and random biners, Grigri 2.
Favorite climbs
- Brown Palace, 5.11a, Big Thompson Canyon
- The 5.9 next to a waterfall in Ten Sleep.
- All the ones I get to do with my kids and my friends.
Most Memorable moment(s)
- Playing bocce with my kids at the campground at Ten Sleep.
- Fleeing the summit of the Third Flatiron when all my hair started to stand up on end.
Goals for Next Year
- Not break any bones.
- Get to the Red for about a week.
- Rumney for a weekend.
- Rebolt some routes and update the guide for my local crag.
- Lead 5.11a at the Gunks.
- Move to New Mexico and keep trad climbing.
- And in the vernacular of blueeyedclimber 'Get more better!'
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gblauer
Moderator
Dec 22, 2011, 10:27 PM
Post #11 of 17
(4565 views)
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Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
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Areas Visited
- Gunks
- Isolation Canyon, AZ
- Jacks Canyon, AZ
- Sedona, AZ
- Squamish BC
- El Potrero Chico, MX
- Birdsboro, PA
-Frankenjura, Germany
Number of Days out
- Rock - ~90 days
- Ice - 1 day
Number of climbs climbed:
410 climbs (not pitches)
Best sends
- Trad onsight: Bonticou, unknown difficulty, undocumented route.
- Trad redpoint: Dirty Gerdie, 5.9 The Gunks
- Sport onsight: Evil Shenanigans, 5.11a, EPC
- Sport redpoint: Selam, 5.10b, EPC
Injuries
- Overuse injuries, arthritis in big toes and fingers, tendonitis in right elbow and shoulder. All over Aches and pains consistent with being an old lady.
Partners
- My favorite of course is my wonderful husband, Mitchal. I love climbing with John W, Michael S, Manny, Patrick, Gavin, Chris. Loved the all girl climbing with Wonderwoman, Bett and Jenn. Enjoyed meeting and climbing with Winnie, Julia, Nate, Jaime, Lori, Parker and Seth
New Skills
- This was my first time getting out on ice. I now have gear so I am looking forward to learning how to ice climb.
- Learning to crack climb in Squamish
- I have improved my route finding and general all around climbing skills/confidence.
First Ascents:
- SIng Along with Mitch, Isolation Canyon, AZ
- Pig in a Pen, Isolation Canyon, AZ
New Gear
- Ice climbing boots
- Crampons
- Ice axes
- Ice screws
- "keeper" biner
- couple of BD cams
Favorite climbs
- Crescent Moon Buttress, 5.10 Mina, Mexico
- Crimson Crescent, 5.11, Sedona, AZ
- Skywalker, 5.8 Squamish
- Diedre, 5.8 Squamish
- Nurses Aid, 5.10c, Gunks
- The Blackout, 5.9R, Gunks
Most Memorable moment(s)
- Post climbing, fireside footrubs by my honey
- Every day that I wake up at the gunks
- Getting off of Crimson Crescent (COLD)
- Surviving the many ways Manny tried to kill me at Isolation Canyon
- Running the 4th annual birdsboro climb and clean
Goals for Next Year
- Lead my first Gunks 10; Retribution (in honor of my 55th birthday)
- Rent a casita in Mexico for the month of November
- Give back more to the climbing community, specifically spend more time in Mexico teaching the little ones how to climb.
(This post was edited by gblauer on Dec 22, 2011, 10:36 PM)
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blueeyedclimber
Dec 22, 2011, 11:02 PM
Post #12 of 17
(4552 views)
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
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shockabuku wrote: - And in the vernacular of blueeyedclimber 'Get more better!'
Damn straight! Here's to "gettin' more better!"
Josh
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damienclimber
Dec 22, 2011, 11:16 PM
Post #13 of 17
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Registered: Jul 13, 2011
Posts: 313
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blueeyedclimber wrote: With the year winding down and 2012 looming, it’s come that time to think about the year we had and what we look to accomplish over the next 12 months. I have done a thread like this before, but one new thing I kept track of this year, was number of days climbing. Combined ice and rock days, I averaged just over 1 day per week. Not bad, but I’d like to get out even more next year. I didn’t have my strongest year, although I did start to turn it on a little in the Fall. Here are my stats. Some of it’s spray. You were warned. Areas Visited - The Gunks, NY - North Conway, NH - Rumney, NH - Cannon Mt., NH - Acadia, ME - Farley ledges, MA - Rose Ledge, MA - Tuolumne Meadows, CA - Red Rocks, NV - San Diego, CA - Kinsman Notch, NH - Champney Falls, NH
Number of Days out - Rock - 50 days - Ice - 6 days Best sends (This may or may not be your hardest sends in each discipline, but your most proudest. As we all know, grades are subjective). Feel free to add a bouldering and/or ice category. - Trad onsight: I couldn’t choose just one, so here are some climbs I am particularly proud of: The West Pillar of Einchorn Pinnacle, 5.9, Tuolumne. Crescent Arch, 5.10b, Tuolumne. Ethereal Crack, 5.10d, Cathedral Ledge. Perhaps my proudest though, is VMC direct direct, although we had to bail due to a slower party, but I onsighted everything up through the fifth pitch. - Trad redpoint: Carbs and Caffeine, 5.11a, The Gunks - Sport onsight: Wedgie, 5.12a, Red Rocks - Sport redpoint: Technosurfing, 5.12b, Rumney Injuries - None to speak of. Except maybe to my ego from time to time. Partners - My favorite of course is my lovely wife, Tiffany, aka WonderWoman. I also climbed with Max, Rob, Reggie, Tim, Mike, Jay and Jake (I hope I’m not forgetting anyone). This does not include numerous gym partners. New Skills - This was my first season getting out more than once on ice, so I would like to think I picked up a bunch of skills there. Other than that I didn’t really try to learn anything new this year. I just wanted to climb.
New Gear - Ice climbing boots. La Sportiva Eno Nepal - Link Cams Favorite climbs - Blown Away, 5.9, Tuolumne Meadows - Crescent Arch, 5.10b, Tuolumne Meadows - VMC direct direct, 5.10 +, Cannon Mt. - West Pillar, 5.9, Tuolumne Meadows - Unimpeachable Groping, 5.10b, Red Rocks - Carbs and Caffeine, 5.11a, The Gunks Most Memorable moment(s) - Topping out on Einchorn Pinnacle with Tiff was pretty cool. - Totally blowing the approach to Levitation 29, taking 6.5 hours to get to the base. - Pitch 3 of VMC direct direct. It was SO good, I almost cried. - Easily redpointing Carbs and Caffeine and thinking that maybe I am ready to attempt Yellow Wall. Goals for Next Year - Attempt Yellow Wall - Go to Thailand - Starting training for the Nose - Finish the last few pitches of VMC direct direct Come spray with me! Josh eidted to add: Goals for next year.
^^^^^^^ You can't spell edited OMG!!!
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yodadave
Dec 23, 2011, 6:35 AM
Post #15 of 17
(4460 views)
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Registered: Feb 11, 2008
Posts: 510
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blueeyedclimber wrote: shockabuku wrote: - And in the vernacular of blueeyedclimber 'Get more better!' Damn straight! Here's to "gettin' more better!" Josh
I believe you mean git mo' beta'
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meanandugly
Dec 23, 2011, 11:00 AM
Post #16 of 17
(4441 views)
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Registered: Oct 20, 2004
Posts: 312
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SFA. Got a new job and had no real time to climb. But on the up side, old injuries that have nagged me for years are feeling good. As for gear...just wish I could use all the new stuff I bought.
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granite_grrl
Dec 23, 2011, 1:32 PM
Post #17 of 17
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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Areas Visited
- Frankenstein - NH
- NRG
- RRG
- Gunks
- Devils Tower
- Back to the RRG
- Probably forgetting something, we tend to recycle the same trips year after year.
Number of Days out
- probably 80 on rock and 20ish on ice/mixed
Best sends
-Weak and Fat, a solid 12- that I've been working on for a couple of years now (OMG! Front Page! Top Rated! Sanjaya!). This was extra special to me because it was just days short of my 5 year anniversary of my accident.
- Off the Couch, a bolted dry tool line at my limit that I eventually got the courage to lead.
Partners
- Obvious my hubby, chossmonkey, but locally my friends John and Riley too. My trip to the Red this fall was awesome climbing with Snupe, CI and 2xAg, and the day I got to summit Devils Tower with the_climber was unforgettable with the spaghetti like tag line.
New Skills
- Getting skinny and climbing the sick gnar.
New Gear
- noshing of note
Favorite climbs
- Weak and Fat (Ontario), Assembly Line (DT), Forearm Follies (RRG, just to first anchor), Check Your Grip (RRG, no send but it was rad to see my improvements on it from the previous year).
Most Memorable moment(s)
- I hate to beat a dead horse, but my send of Weak on Fat on the third attempt of the day was pretty rad.
Goals for Next Year
- Keep the weight off, maybe even getting sick skinny (and strong!). Generally keep improving.
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