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carabiner96
Apr 8, 2013, 10:30 PM
Post #99026 of 105309
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carabiner96 wrote: Halp. I just registered for the Teva Mt Games this summer in bouldering (you're shocked, I know). It's an adaptive category. What can I do between now and then to not totally suck? I'm not trying to win but I don't want folks to be like 'ohh, look at the poor gimpy kid try really hard!' Damn peer pressure. though, at the last event, the F Upper Limb field was 0, so I'm hoping I place...
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lena_chita
Moderator
Apr 8, 2013, 11:35 PM
Post #99027 of 105309
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carabiner96 wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Halp. I just registered for the Teva Mt Games this summer in bouldering (you're shocked, I know). It's an adaptive category. What can I do between now and then to not totally suck? I'm not trying to win but I don't want folks to be like 'ohh, look at the poor gimpy kid try really hard!' Damn peer pressure. though, at the last event, the F Upper Limb field was 0, so I'm hoping I place... I dunno... drink fewer margaritas, and climb more? How is the gym for bouldering, for you? Are you allowed to have an attachment, and is it regulated, in terms of what you are allowed to wear on your gimp-arm, or are you not allowed to wear a hook/axe-type thing, because it would damage walls/holds?
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lena_chita
Moderator
Apr 8, 2013, 11:41 PM
Post #99028 of 105309
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The garage demolition right next to my work building is going to make life REALLY suck in the next month or two. Sure, it is entertaining to watch, but the noise really gets on your nerves, the building is shaking, and positive air pressure or not, the dust still gets in. I just hope there won't be clogged air-intake filters, and hopefully none of the equipment is vibration-sensitive to the extent that it is going to die... I mean, we do have vibration-sensitive equipment, and it is already set on special floating supports, but who knows? They (the maintenance people) haven't figured out how to maintain normal temperature in the building... my expectations are pretty low.
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granite_grrl
Apr 9, 2013, 12:16 AM
Post #99029 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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Hey Mo, pretty rad that you're competing. It's pretty hard for me to suggest training for you on account I haven't climbed with you enough to fully understand your limitations. From what I remembered you sometimes get to a move that you simply cannot. Is it possible to get better at work arounds or is it better for you just to get better at the climbing that already works for you?
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granite_grrl
Apr 9, 2013, 12:24 AM
Post #99030 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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Weekend report: Spent the weekend back at home with Nathan. Saturday I had to put the car in the garage for an oil change and decided to run home. Ran 15km, which I'm pretty proud of (considering I only started doing real running 3 months ago). Still not fast but I think I did it at a pretty reasonable pace. In the afternoon Nathan and I hit up the local train bridge and did a couple of ARC sessions each. I was burned out pretty good after that. Yesterday we enjoyed the glories of spring, but didn't want to spend too much time outside because the wind was so strong. Did another short run (4.4km) with Nathan that I shouldn't have done. Tonight I did a 7km run and have decided that I REALLY need to take a couple of rest days from running right now. I took the Beastmaker 1000 away from Nathan and gave him back his Nicros so I still hope to do some upper body work before I go to bed. That is awl.
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carabiner96
Apr 9, 2013, 12:47 AM
Post #99031 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 10, 2006
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granite_grrl wrote: Hey Mo, pretty rad that you're competing. It's pretty hard for me to suggest training for you on account I haven't climbed with you enough to fully understand your limitations. From what I remembered you sometimes get to a move that you simply cannot. Is it possible to get better at work arounds or is it better for you just to get better at the climbing that already works for you? I think the thing I will have to work on the most is core strength, as that will help me really get to holds that may be at the edge of my reach. Lena, the leg guys all wear their prosthesis, I don't know if I'm allowed or not but I've never climbed rock or in the gym with one, I prefer to climb without. My axe arm would definitely trash the holds!
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camhead
Apr 9, 2013, 1:36 AM
Post #99032 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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carabiner96 wrote: Halp. I just registered for the Teva Mt Games this summer in bouldering (you're shocked, I know). It's an adaptive category. What can I do between now and then to not totally suck? I'm not trying to win but I don't want folks to be like 'ohh, look at the poor gimpy kid try really hard!' Damn peer pressure. Lockoffs. One armed dynos.
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epoch
Moderator
Apr 9, 2013, 4:43 AM
Post #99033 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 32163
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carabiner96 wrote: Halp. I just registered for the Teva Mt Games this summer in bouldering (you're shocked, I know). It's an adaptive category. What can I do between now and then to not totally suck? I'm not trying to win but I don't want folks to be like 'ohh, look at the poor gimpy kid try really hard!' Damn peer pressure. Haven't you been reading this thread? You must drink beer and do one legged campus board routines until you pull the roof of the storage-facility cum bouldering jim down upon you in all raddness. Then whilst carrying the moosebear you must do one-arm deadhangs for two hours whilst listening to Jak slur insults to you from the hole. ...aka train?
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camhead
Apr 9, 2013, 12:23 PM
Post #99034 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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camhead wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Halp. I just registered for the Teva Mt Games this summer in bouldering (you're shocked, I know). It's an adaptive category. What can I do between now and then to not totally suck? I'm not trying to win but I don't want folks to be like 'ohh, look at the poor gimpy kid try really hard!' Damn peer pressure. Lockoffs. One armed dynos. Oh, and Donkeylock to the Figure Pi!
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snoopy138
Apr 9, 2013, 4:18 PM
Post #99035 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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took a beat down from Wangerbanger on sunday. got up into the crux trying to lieback through, barndoored right off since there are no right feet. may have figured out some beta that would work. those angled red/green camalots are a pain in the ass. Had more success on Effigy Too and Hatfields & McCoys (FA: a bunch of dead people -- AB, Big Tony, Smvrf, etc.). Hatfields & McCoys goes up some nice patina ... pretty fun. CI, it's worth doing if you're in the area.
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murf
Apr 9, 2013, 4:23 PM
Post #99036 of 105309
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Registered: Mar 15, 2002
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snoopy138 wrote: took a beat down from Wangerbanger on sunday. got up into the crux trying to lieback through, barndoored right off since there are no right feet. may have figured out some beta that would work. those angled red/green camalots are a pain in the ass. Had more success on Effigy Too and Hatfields & McCoys (FA: a bunch of dead people -- AB, Big Tony, Smvrf, etc.). Hatfields & McCoys goes up some nice patina ... pretty fun. CI, it's worth doing if you're in the area. Gotta jam it straight on, reach as high as you can into the pod left hand thumb down. That way you keep your right in somewhat reasonable very tight hands. If I had known AB would have quit right after, I wouldn't have given him the FA on H&M.
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murf
Apr 9, 2013, 4:24 PM
Post #99037 of 105309
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murf wrote: snoopy138 wrote: took a beat down from Wangerbanger on sunday. got up into the crux trying to lieback through, barndoored right off since there are no right feet. may have figured out some beta that would work. those angled red/green camalots are a pain in the ass. Had more success on Effigy Too and Hatfields & McCoys (FA: a bunch of dead people -- AB, Big Tony, Smvrf, etc.). Hatfields & McCoys goes up some nice patina ... pretty fun. CI, it's worth doing if you're in the area. Gotta jam it straight on, reach as high as you can into the pod left hand thumb down. That way you keep your right in somewhat reasonable very tight hands. If I had known AB would have quit died right after, I wouldn't have given him the FA on H&M. Fixed.
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camhead
Apr 9, 2013, 4:37 PM
Post #99038 of 105309
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murf wrote: snoopy138 wrote: took a beat down from Wangerbanger on sunday. got up into the crux trying to lieback through, barndoored right off since there are no right feet. may have figured out some beta that would work. those angled red/green camalots are a pain in the ass. Had more success on Effigy Too and Hatfields & McCoys (FA: a bunch of dead people -- AB, Big Tony, Smvrf, etc.). Hatfields & McCoys goes up some nice patina ... pretty fun. CI, it's worth doing if you're in the area. Gotta jam it straight on, reach as high as you can into the pod left hand thumb down. That way you keep your right in somewhat reasonable very tight hands. If I had known AB would have quit right after, I wouldn't have given him the FA on H&M. I would say that I onsighted WB, but I could not see anything that day. Have you guys seen that pic?
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murf
Apr 9, 2013, 4:53 PM
Post #99039 of 105309
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camhead wrote: murf wrote: snoopy138 wrote: took a beat down from Wangerbanger on sunday. got up into the crux trying to lieback through, barndoored right off since there are no right feet. may have figured out some beta that would work. those angled red/green camalots are a pain in the ass. Had more success on Effigy Too and Hatfields & McCoys (FA: a bunch of dead people -- AB, Big Tony, Smvrf, etc.). Hatfields & McCoys goes up some nice patina ... pretty fun. CI, it's worth doing if you're in the area. Gotta jam it straight on, reach as high as you can into the pod left hand thumb down. That way you keep your right in somewhat reasonable very tight hands. If I had known AB would have quit right after, I wouldn't have given him the FA on H&M. I would say that I onsighted WB, but I could not see anything that day. Have you guys seen that pic? I can't see anything either right now.
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snoopy138
Apr 9, 2013, 5:24 PM
Post #99040 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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murf wrote: snoopy138 wrote: took a beat down from Wangerbanger on sunday. got up into the crux trying to lieback through, barndoored right off since there are no right feet. may have figured out some beta that would work. those angled red/green camalots are a pain in the ass. Had more success on Effigy Too and Hatfields & McCoys (FA: a bunch of dead people -- AB, Big Tony, Smvrf, etc.). Hatfields & McCoys goes up some nice patina ... pretty fun. CI, it's worth doing if you're in the area. Gotta jam it straight on, reach as high as you can into the pod left hand thumb down. That way you keep your right in somewhat reasonable very tight hands. If I had known AB would have quit right after, I wouldn't have given him the FA on H&M. yeah, I think the best thing for me will be to lieback initially until the stance with the right foot in the small dish, then go into straight jams. there's a fixed green camalot right at the base of the pod, looks like it would require a lot of work to get it out. wasn't it up to Big Tony who to give the FA to?
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snoopy138
Apr 9, 2013, 5:25 PM
Post #99041 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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murf wrote: camhead wrote: murf wrote: snoopy138 wrote: took a beat down from Wangerbanger on sunday. got up into the crux trying to lieback through, barndoored right off since there are no right feet. may have figured out some beta that would work. those angled red/green camalots are a pain in the ass. Had more success on Effigy Too and Hatfields & McCoys (FA: a bunch of dead people -- AB, Big Tony, Smvrf, etc.). Hatfields & McCoys goes up some nice patina ... pretty fun. CI, it's worth doing if you're in the area. Gotta jam it straight on, reach as high as you can into the pod left hand thumb down. That way you keep your right in somewhat reasonable very tight hands. If I had known AB would have quit right after, I wouldn't have given him the FA on H&M. I would say that I onsighted WB, but I could not see anything that day. Have you guys seen that pic? I can't see anything either right now. yore vanity search skillz are still impressive. you must have some sort of script running to check this thread for different variants of your name.
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murf
Apr 9, 2013, 5:37 PM
Post #99042 of 105309
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Registered: Mar 15, 2002
Posts: 1150
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snoopy138 wrote: murf wrote: snoopy138 wrote: took a beat down from Wangerbanger on sunday. got up into the crux trying to lieback through, barndoored right off since there are no right feet. may have figured out some beta that would work. those angled red/green camalots are a pain in the ass. Had more success on Effigy Too and Hatfields & McCoys (FA: a bunch of dead people -- AB, Big Tony, Smvrf, etc.). Hatfields & McCoys goes up some nice patina ... pretty fun. CI, it's worth doing if you're in the area. Gotta jam it straight on, reach as high as you can into the pod left hand thumb down. That way you keep your right in somewhat reasonable very tight hands. If I had known AB would have quit right after, I wouldn't have given him the FA on H&M. yeah, I think the best thing for me will be to lieback initially until the stance with the right foot in the small dish, then go into straight jams. there's a fixed green camalot right at the base of the pod, looks like it would require a lot of work to get it out. wasn't it up to Big Tony who to give the FA to? Liebacking on that thing just sucks in general IMO. He was definitely the #1 guy, but it was mine to give up.
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murf
Apr 9, 2013, 5:38 PM
Post #99043 of 105309
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Registered: Mar 15, 2002
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snoopy138 wrote: murf wrote: camhead wrote: murf wrote: snoopy138 wrote: took a beat down from Wangerbanger on sunday. got up into the crux trying to lieback through, barndoored right off since there are no right feet. may have figured out some beta that would work. those angled red/green camalots are a pain in the ass. Had more success on Effigy Too and Hatfields & McCoys (FA: a bunch of dead people -- AB, Big Tony, Smvrf, etc.). Hatfields & McCoys goes up some nice patina ... pretty fun. CI, it's worth doing if you're in the area. Gotta jam it straight on, reach as high as you can into the pod left hand thumb down. That way you keep your right in somewhat reasonable very tight hands. If I had known AB would have quit right after, I wouldn't have given him the FA on H&M. I would say that I onsighted WB, but I could not see anything that day. Have you guys seen that pic? I can't see anything either right now. yore vanity search skillz are still impressive. you must have some sort of script running to check this thread for different variants of your name. Sorry what? The spray is still screwing with my vision.
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caughtinside
Apr 9, 2013, 6:48 PM
Post #99044 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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snoopy138 wrote: took a beat down from Wangerbanger on sunday. got up into the crux trying to lieback through, barndoored right off since there are no right feet. may have figured out some beta that would work. those angled red/green camalots are a pain in the ass. Had more success on Effigy Too and Hatfields & McCoys (FA: a bunch of dead people -- AB, Big Tony, Smvrf, etc.). Hatfields & McCoys goes up some nice patina ... pretty fun. CI, it's worth doing if you're in the area. Yeah, that wangerbanger is one shit nasty move off a really bad jam for me. Hopefully I'll be back in josh next season. SHut out this year for like the first time in... man. Maybe since 2004?
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dr_feelgood
Apr 9, 2013, 7:21 PM
Post #99045 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
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murf wrote: snoopy138 wrote: took a beat down from Wangerbanger on sunday. got up into the crux trying to lieback through, barndoored right off since there are no right feet. may have figured out some beta that would work. those angled red/green camalots are a pain in the ass. Had more success on Effigy Too and Hatfields & McCoys (FA: a bunch of dead people -- AB, Big Tony, Smvrf, etc.). Hatfields & McCoys goes up some nice patina ... pretty fun. CI, it's worth doing if you're in the area. Gotta jam it straight on, reach as high as you can into the pod left hand thumb down. That way you keep your right in somewhat reasonable very tight hands. If I had known AB would have quit right after, I wouldn't have given him the FA on H&M. Vaneetay!
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dr_feelgood
Apr 9, 2013, 7:22 PM
Post #99046 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
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snoopy138 wrote: murf wrote: camhead wrote: murf wrote: snoopy138 wrote: took a beat down from Wangerbanger on sunday. got up into the crux trying to lieback through, barndoored right off since there are no right feet. may have figured out some beta that would work. those angled red/green camalots are a pain in the ass. Had more success on Effigy Too and Hatfields & McCoys (FA: a bunch of dead people -- AB, Big Tony, Smvrf, etc.). Hatfields & McCoys goes up some nice patina ... pretty fun. CI, it's worth doing if you're in the area. Gotta jam it straight on, reach as high as you can into the pod left hand thumb down. That way you keep your right in somewhat reasonable very tight hands. If I had known AB would have quit right after, I wouldn't have given him the FA on H&M. I would say that I onsighted WB, but I could not see anything that day. Have you guys seen that pic? I can't see anything either right now. yore vanity search skillz are still impressive. you must have some sort of script running to check this thread for different variants of your name. GUed. Oh well.
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snoopy138
Apr 9, 2013, 8:48 PM
Post #99047 of 105309
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dr_feelgood wrote: snoopy138 wrote: murf wrote: camhead wrote: murf wrote: snoopy138 wrote: took a beat down from Wangerbanger on sunday. got up into the crux trying to lieback through, barndoored right off since there are no right feet. may have figured out some beta that would work. those angled red/green camalots are a pain in the ass. Had more success on Effigy Too and Hatfields & McCoys (FA: a bunch of dead people -- AB, Big Tony, Smvrf, etc.). Hatfields & McCoys goes up some nice patina ... pretty fun. CI, it's worth doing if you're in the area. Gotta jam it straight on, reach as high as you can into the pod left hand thumb down. That way you keep your right in somewhat reasonable very tight hands. If I had known AB would have quit right after, I wouldn't have given him the FA on H&M. I would say that I onsighted WB, but I could not see anything that day. Have you guys seen that pic? I can't see anything either right now. yore vanity search skillz are still impressive. you must have some sort of script running to check this thread for different variants of your name. GUed. Oh well. not surprising.
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climbs4fun
Moderator
Apr 10, 2013, 4:48 AM
Post #99048 of 105309
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Registered: Mar 19, 2003
Posts: 9679
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weekend report. RRR. Met hot SAR dude and gave him a hard time. Felt badly. Grew a pair and sent him an appology and offer for beer to his office. Should be interesting to see if he calls. I've never done anything like that before (the note, not the hard time). That is awl.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Apr 10, 2013, 11:04 AM
Post #99049 of 105309
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climbs4fun wrote: weekend report. RRR. Met hot SAR dude and gave him a hard time. Felt badly. Grew a pair and sent him an appology and offer for beer to his office. Should be interesting to see if he calls. I've never done anything like that before (the note, not the hard time). That is awl. I thought that giving hard time to guys/gals you find attractive was the pattern of behavior that ended in middle school? I am happy to say that Daniel no longer pulls the ponytails of the girl he finds attractive. He does his best to ignore her, now. Anyway, I hope the hot dude calls back.
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