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ajkclay
Sep 28, 2003, 11:23 AM
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my figeni
fingers are sdguiosdg
so struiosd
strong thkl;dfg
i can dojsp.....
i can daoi[sdfh....
This is Adam's wife, he has asked me to finish this because every time he tries to type on the keyboard, it breaks under the strength of his fingers.
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plackiee
Sep 28, 2003, 11:48 AM
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im so glad to see that not everything rests with strength. i can do a couple of one armed pull ups (when i try that is.. ) and some two fingered ones, using my middle fingers and the last two, so i guess thats not soo bad.
the apple thing - yep! i can do that :) tis not so much strength as technique.
i would tell you what i climb, but i dont know. i havnt climbed any graded stuff that i know of, none to be found, just find a bit of rock that looks interesting, and go up ;)
i guess enough finger strength is that which gets you where you wanna go
-plax
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madcowrockclimber
Sep 28, 2003, 4:29 PM
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i dont know about strength but i know a guy who was climbing in an indoor gym and was going for a big ol bubba hold and got his middle finger stuck in the holds bolt-hole :lol:
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pinkamy
Sep 28, 2003, 8:54 PM
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Well, I have finger bicepts! :lol:
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tenn_dawg
Sep 28, 2003, 10:42 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Thankyou everyone. This thread has been a really interesting read. I've learned that really, finger strength does not have that much to do with climbing difficulty. I can hardley do any of the tricks mentioned, but I can stay on a 15 degree overhanging bouldering wall for 30 minutes. It's good to know there's hope for me. Travis On the other hand, difficult climbing has everything to do with finger strength.
Naw, really it dosen't. It's more about form than anything as hard as I've climbed. I don't know about .13's and above, mabey they are more strength intensive, but I've seen some skinny girls skitter up some hellacious climbs, and they probably can't do any of the tricks mentiond in this thread.
Food for thought, ya know...
Travis
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chitlinsconcarne
Sep 29, 2003, 2:24 AM
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Its nice to think that form is the primary weapon but, after a certain level of difficulty, raw power starts to be a primary factor. The form used in climbing an overhanging .11 is not essentially any different than that used to climb an overhanging .13..the holds just get smaller or more slopey, or both. At that point, ones ratio of strength to body weight starts to determine whats physically possible to do. Those skinny young girls pulling hard routes will have a grip strength to body weight ratio very favorable to performance in this particular sport. Watching Katie Brown climb a few years ago served as a good example of this. Not only was she very light and limber and technically a competant climber, but she was also very, very strong..for her body size.
Its relatively easy for most of us to build the big forearms and lats that characterize strong climbers, building strength in the hands and fingers is a more time-intensive process. And without hands and fingers that are strong-relative to the weight that they will be required to hold- hard routes do not get sent. Don't confuse that with people that can do party tricks. Being strong doesn't make one a good climber, but climbing at the high grades doesn't occur without being strong..and if the fingers are not willing, you will fail.
Skip the party tricks. No doorjambs or one arm pull-ups. Train slopers, not crimpers. Stay off the campus boards until that type of training becomes essential to making the next step. Chronic pain is not a natural condition, nor vitamin I a natural solution.
Pull down like a freak.
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climb_plastic
Sep 29, 2003, 3:38 AM
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Finger strength is not everything but it is 90% of it. If you have finger strength you can train your body to do just about any of the moves out there. Just think about that V7 you can't do. Replace the holds on that V7 with big bomber holds and see how easy it becomes.
Oh, and if you can hang on 15 degree incline for 30 minutes then you have some pretty strong fingers.
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koto
Sep 30, 2003, 3:44 AM
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In reply to: my figeni fingers are sdguiosdg so struiosd strong thkl;dfg i can dojsp..... i can daoi[sdfh.... This is Adam's wife, he has asked me to finish this because every time he tries to type on the keyboard, it breaks under the strength of his fingers.
hhhmmmmm... methinks Adam is a stoner.
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tenn_dawg
Sep 30, 2003, 3:57 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: my figeni fingers are sdguiosdg so struiosd strong thkl;dfg i can dojsp..... i can daoi[sdfh.... This is Adam's wife, he has asked me to finish this because every time he tries to type on the keyboard, it breaks under the strength of his fingers. hhhmmmmm... methinks Adam is a stoner.
Hahahaha, I thought it was funny as hell. what do I know?
hahahahafunny2me!!11
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quam
Sep 30, 2003, 4:05 AM
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i can do about 30 pull-ups normally and i've done as many as 3 with only my middle finger on each hand. i'm training for a one arm pull-up but it's not coming yet. right now i just get to the top and go down slowly.
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mr.poo
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Sep 30, 2003, 5:01 AM
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man you guys may be able to do all kinds of super human finger tricks but one day some of you will regret ever trying them. two friends of mine have blown their fingers on this kind of stuff. i myself have blown a finger on a super tweaky hold before and the three of us will tell you...."do everything you can possibly do to avoid hurting your fingers"
now it is true that just climbing can hurt you but when you push your luck that is just asking for it. some people can do some crazy stuff for finger strength but not everybody is the same. all anybody needs to work on is full body tension, endurance, foot work, and overall technique. strength will come as an added bonus with the process. if you force it you will be opening yourself to getting injured bad. trust me please. no one should f-ck their finger up when it can be prevented. it has been a full year now and my finger is no better than the day i hurt it. my climbing has improved just as fast as it always did even with a hurt finger. this is all because i have developed my technique.
oh and i can do about 10 pull-ups on my index/middle fingers (both hands)
and that is where my limit is for the next couple of years. i am not going push it and blow another finger.
be safe and watch those ring fingers, they are the most popular of the injured fingers.
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scubasnyder
Oct 16, 2003, 6:02 AM
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i cant do 8 two finger pull ups, i can do 15 back pullups, and i dont try to do regular ones anymore, it do 2 or 3 finger pull ups, i also do reverse pullups with 1 or 2 fingers those work well.
One time i saw this guy that crushed an apple in his hand and also he made a tennis ball blow up basically it was sick
he said to crumble newspaper with one hand and just keep doing that, it works
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strongerthanyesterday
Oct 16, 2003, 6:06 AM
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My fingers are strongerthanyesterday.
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nwrestler03
Oct 19, 2003, 5:17 AM
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I can do about 25 regular pull ups, however when it comes to finger pull ups i am horrible. I can do about one two finger pull up. guess i got alot of work to do. :D
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mountaingoat8
Oct 19, 2003, 1:18 PM
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my fingers are so strong, i look at a monopocket and it makes me sore
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chossmonkey
Oct 19, 2003, 2:20 PM
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I think to measure finger strength accurately you need to do more than one test. Pinching a scale seems to be a good test of pinch strength but doesn't really relate to how small of holds you can hang (the size and shape of scale may make a difference?). One arm pullups are more arm and back strength than fingers. Hard climbing takes technique, endurance, and strength. Strength more easily transfers to fill in for bad technique or lack of endurance, than endurance or technique fill in for lack of strength. If you don't have the strength to crank the hard moves there is nothing to endure. On the other side a little technique can make a hard move very easy. If you want to climb hard start working on your weakness. I read of all these people who say they can do one arm pullups but can only redpoint 5.11+, to me that is amazing. I would consider myself a pretty solid 5.12 climber with some easy 5.13 redpoints and I can't quite do a one arm. I suppose if I trained one arms I could, but I'd rather get better at climbing routes. One arm pull ups could be considered training for some very elite climbers but if you think you need to do them for your latest 5.11 or 5.12 project your in over your head and should be consolidating your skills at your current level. As far as how strong my fingers are I squeezed 200 lbs. on my scale this morning. My non-climbing weak as a kitten girlfriend squeezed 70 lbs.
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kdchampion
Nov 12, 2004, 1:35 PM
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Alright, I climb with a guy who has really strong fingers. He'll get on a campus board that allows for just under a pad for grip. there's about 15 boards (holds) and he'll take 4 moves to the top, skipping about 3 or 4 every move. then once he's to the top he'll drop down about 5 or 7 boards. Now that's finger stregth!!! Imagine your body falling about 2 to 2-1/2 feet and then just hitting and sticking on less than a pad? OUCH!!!
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johnathon78
Nov 12, 2004, 2:14 PM
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my greaest feat would have to be pulling myself up using both hands each on a 2 finger crimper. Sure it was for a few seconds but I'm pretty proud out it!
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photon
Nov 12, 2004, 2:34 PM
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My amazing finger strength allows me to perform THE signature move:
double middle finger mono undercling:
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masterjuggler41
Nov 12, 2004, 4:41 PM
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I can do 10 mono pull ups, and I have successfully done one - two finger (on each hand) pull up on a door frame. I am proud of that one.
oh, and I boulder V6
Dem
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r_moffitt321
Nov 12, 2004, 7:58 PM
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This is a lot of fun but make sure you warm up first. I was hanging out with some friends and on a whim decided to hang from one finger. My knuckle popped and I strained a pully in my finger. I couldn't Climb for a couple weeks and that SUCKS. So make sure you're ready warmed up and ready before doing something stupid.
P.S. I'm pretty weak. I can hang by one finger but I don't think I'm ready to pull on it yet. However, I can pop off a couple 2 finger (per hand) pull-ups.
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pdiddy
Nov 15, 2004, 5:15 PM
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I can't do any fancy pull ups, but I can bend my fingers all the way back. My pinkies can totally touch the back of my hand, it freaked my doctor out.
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grimpiperx
Dec 7, 2004, 4:08 AM
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The best I can do on a bar is a mono on one hand(either) and two on the other. I can hang off of double monos. On the scale thingy i got 150 which i guess is ok cause i only weigh 120.....
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climbhoser
Dec 7, 2004, 4:38 AM
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First off, interesting thread...I like it. I've gots a few things about the body to keep in mind, however.
The main point is that finger strength has little to do with pull-up ability. I can do about 30 pull-ups with all fingers on and the same using only my middle fingers. My fingers just get tired quicker when I'm only using two instead of ten. Secondly, pull-ups have little to do with climbing ability: Chris Linder sends hard .13, maybe .14 and can't do a one arm pull-up let alone more than 15 regular, two arm pull-ups. It's grip, baybee....
So, my stats, I landed a one armed pull-up once, I can lock-off one armed on one finger on each arm-the ring, the fore OR the middle...I can do 30 ups and weight 205-210. I redpoint mid .12, never tried harder, get up hard .10 trad and easy .11 and boulder V7.
How 'bout that for a fat dude?
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