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indeco
Sep 17, 2003, 11:19 PM
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Registered: May 3, 2002
Posts: 84
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:(
Please forgive this post as it was fraught with errors as i was at my girl friends and had no guide book at hand. My warning stands but the route name i gave is incorrect. The route with the dangerous block is in fact "Dehydrated yuppie brains" sorry for this error.
Warning to Escarpment climbers and request to qualified climbers.
Having climbing “Psycho lust for yuppie chicks” (correct route "Dehydrated Yuppie Brians") many times on the old gear; this season after my own personal break from climbing I returned to Nemo to climb this route to find it retro bolted. This is a debate I can get into another time but the reason for my post is the route is completely unsafe at this time. Between two bolts is a large block that used to offer a Horizontal finger crack. This block now offers a wide hand sized crack as it moved six to eight inches under the weight of my foot. Had or if this block comes off it will come off between two clipped bolts, tearing the rope and climber from the wall. Avoid this climb till this problem is fixed. Lastly if someone has the time and experience remove this block on repel. Please do so only if you have the experience as it will be a dangerous venture, but it needs to be done. Lastly if this process takes place and it impacts or effects any bolts threatening their safety, remove them or affix a warning. I would personally do this but I live five hours away.
Thank you, for more details contact me at Hucklebucks@ripnet.com
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krillen
Sep 17, 2003, 11:48 PM
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Registered: Jul 19, 2001
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Please contact the Access Committee and ACC with this news, I'll do my best to spread the word on my end.
www.climbers.org
cheers
thanks for the news BTW
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andypro
Sep 18, 2003, 12:32 AM
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Registered: Aug 23, 2003
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I forwarded a link to this thread (with short cover letter type thing) to Joe Rockheads and Rock Oasis climbing gyms in Toronto, Guelph Grotto climbing gym in Guelph, and the UOG climbing/outdoor club. I figure (hope) someway somehow it will trickle down to someone who can help.
--Andy P
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roughster
Sep 18, 2003, 9:14 AM
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Registered: Apr 3, 2002
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roughster moved this thread from General to Regional Discussions.
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darkside
Oct 2, 2003, 4:53 PM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2001
Posts: 1687
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I just got back from a multi-week roadtrip to find out about this. Does anyone know if action was taken on this? I will try to look into it but as with any climbing activity, discretion is an important tool to staying safe. Make sure the route is safe before trying it.
While I'm on the subject of safety. I received word of a loose anchor prior to my trip, which I duely corrected. Does anyone know of other problems in the Halton region?
Climb safe and have fun.
Grant.
Access Portfolio Manager.
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tradrenn
Feb 16, 2005, 4:19 AM
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Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990
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:lol:
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