Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention:
claw-dad (crawdad?)
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Injury Treatment and Prevention

Premier Sponsor:

 


muleypt


Mar 27, 2002, 2:31 PM
Post #1 of 9 (2050 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 14, 2002
Posts: 38

claw-dad (crawdad?)
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

A few years ago while climbing fairly hard, I slowly developed this condition where the fourth and fifth (pinky) fingers on my left hand began to curl in toward my palm when I relaxed them - I had no control over it. I also experienced mild strength loss in those two fingers too. I went to the doctor who didn't have a clue what was wrong and wouldn't refer me to specialist (crappy HMO's). Anyway - have any of you guys experienced this before? Is this all in my mind?


dynamic


Mar 27, 2002, 3:40 PM
Post #2 of 9 (2048 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 439

claw-dad (crawdad?) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

how long did the weakness/curling last? could you extend the fingers during this time? did you ever feel a pop? (not a tendon or ligament pop but one in your upper forearm) muscles were probably strained. depending on severity it should have healed in under two weeks providing you didn't keep abusing them.


muleypt


Mar 27, 2002, 5:03 PM
Post #3 of 9 (2048 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 14, 2002
Posts: 38

claw-dad (crawdad?) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Dynamic - I was able to straighten them if I tried and I felt no popping at any time, it kinda creeped up on me. You know, it was with my left hand (I'm right-handed) and I wonder if it was just that I was not conditioning my weaker hand and forearm properly. You mention upper forearm - can you think of any weight excercise that would strengthen that area? I already have these funky "popeye" forearms so it would need to be an excercise to strengthen - not bulk up. I also work out regularly w/BD's doughnut and a grip-master. Any help appreciated.


dustinap
Deleted

Mar 27, 2002, 5:54 PM
Post #4 of 9 (2048 views)
Shortcut

Registered:
Posts:

claw-dad (crawdad?) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

All of my fingers on both of my hands do this. Same exact thing, I can straighten them, but relaxed they're curled in.

I think it's just because you and I are such strong climbers.


chirp


Mar 27, 2002, 6:11 PM
Post #5 of 9 (2048 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 24, 2002
Posts: 56

claw-dad (crawdad?) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Do you stretch frequently? Usually curling fingers with no outward pain means you have overly tight or hypertonic forearm muscles ( the flexors ). With your forearm forward at chest height, rotate your hand palm facing up. With your other hand feel the area about one cm forward of your "funny bone" towards your hand,( see if it is tender ). That is the attachment site for alot of your hand flexors...also feel along the muscles of your forearm to see if they are tender. Typically, overly tight flexors result in curling at rest of the fingers. Use a cold compress on the area of attachment and stretch the muscles by facing your hand palm down and pull back on your fingers. Ill try to locate a web link with pictures for you and post in a few.

[ This Message was edited by: chirp on 2002-03-27 10:20 ]


chirp


Mar 27, 2002, 6:18 PM
Post #6 of 9 (2048 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 24, 2002
Posts: 56

claw-dad (crawdad?) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ok heres some links to get you started. one describes the flexors and the other give a decent deep stroke designed to strip out the muscles. Again...Stretch frequently and drink a ton of water. Caution, listen to your body and always warm up


Flexors:
http://www.exrx.net/Muscles/WristFlexors.html

Stroke:
http://danke.com/Orthodoc/flexdeep.html

good luck! Dave Thomas NCTMB


[ This Message was edited by: chirp on 2002-03-27 10:22 ]


dustinap
Deleted

Mar 27, 2002, 6:27 PM
Post #7 of 9 (2048 views)
Shortcut

Registered:
Posts:

claw-dad (crawdad?) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have absolutely no pain.


chirp


Mar 27, 2002, 6:39 PM
Post #8 of 9 (2048 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 24, 2002
Posts: 56

claw-dad (crawdad?) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Then its probably just that due to extensive use, the fascia ( tissue surronding the muscles like a "body sock" ) has shortened and simply stretching and doing that forearm stroke...consistently over time will bring your fingers back to "normal". Pain is not required. Having them curl is not a problem but if they remain hypertonic for long periods and you get a small tear in the muscle, you are at higher risk for trigger points and other muscle ailments. If you know a massage therapist, have them work on you, its pretty awesome what we can do and how that translates to more power/less prone to injury.


dustinap
Deleted

Mar 27, 2002, 7:28 PM
Post #9 of 9 (2048 views)
Shortcut

Registered:
Posts:

claw-dad (crawdad?) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks, I appreciate the info!


Forums : Climbing Information : Injury Treatment and Prevention

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook