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boulder_boy
Apr 21, 2004, 8:29 PM
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Hi Im doing like 5.10 routes and 5.11 routes and I usually lead since my friend really doesnt like to. anyways I was wondering if anyone really had a problem with grabbing onto the hold to hard and therefore getting your arms pumped......has this happened to anyone and what did you do to solve this?
thx
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jcr
Apr 21, 2004, 8:58 PM
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Most people overgrip when they are nervous, are freaked out, or fear a fall. Others only do it when they are at the crux or hard move of a route. I suggest to take some deep breaths before going on a route and mentaly prepare yourself for what you are going to do ....RELAX and have in mind that if you are doing everything the right way nothing will happen if you fall.
I sometimes have this problem and what helps me the most is to be CONSCIOUS of this WHILE climbing and think "IM NOT GOING TO OVERGRIP" on every hold so you can loosen up your grip until you feel comfortable and train yourself to feel the rock or plastic hold. Remember different holds require different grip preassures, a large hueco wont need as much preassure as an uncomfortable pinch.
Hope this helps.
JC
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madyak
Apr 22, 2004, 4:06 AM
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I first notced that I over gripped stuff when I started mountain biking. I'd finish a ride and be like "my legs are sore, but damn, my forearms are killing me!" It occured to me that I was holding on way, way too tight. So while riding, I started to intentionally loosen my grip on the bars until I learned just how tight I needed to grab things in different situations.
I quickly put this together with my climbing. I focused primarily on bouldering around, nice and slowly, and trying to see how little strength I could use and still stay on the holds. This did two things: first, it stopped me from over gripping; second, it forced me to improve my footwork. Give it a try and see if it works for you.
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overlord
Apr 22, 2004, 8:42 AM
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it ususaly for people to overgrip, especially when scared. you have to concentrato on gripping just right.
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muncher
Apr 22, 2004, 10:53 PM
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Just learn to chill out and really concentrate on using the least amount of energy on each hold. often you can grab a hold and grip hard to stick it then you can relax a little once your stablished on it. Also learn how to relax whatever muscels are not being used, just try not to tense up your whole body all the time.
As was stated earlier, most of it is mental. If you are nervous then many climbers are prone to over gripping. It makes you feel more secure but at the same time effectvely increases the grade of whatever you are climbing. Learn to assess the risk and If say you are sport climbing and there is very little chance of hurting yourself if you come off then just relax and go for it. Try and climb until you fall off, don't just give up and say take, get used to going for it and falling. The more often you fall the more comfortable you will get with it and the more relaxed you be on a route thus you will be less prone to over gripping.
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andy_reagan
Apr 23, 2004, 3:38 PM
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stop manhandling those holds! I gotta use those after you!
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vertical_reality
Apr 23, 2004, 3:46 PM
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Don't use your thumb when you grip.
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crag
Apr 23, 2004, 4:14 PM
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In reply to: stop manhandling those holds! I gotta use those after you!
Yeah plus over gripping can cut off precious blood circulation and turns things and interesting shade of purple.
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jt512
Apr 23, 2004, 4:23 PM
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In reply to: Hi Im doing like 5.10 routes and 5.11 routes and I usually lead since my friend really doesnt like to. anyways I was wondering if anyone really had a problem with grabbing onto the hold to hard and therefore getting your arms pumped......has this happened to anyone and what did you do to solve this? thx
If you notice yourself overgripping on lead, TR the route and pay attention to precisely how lightly you hold the holds when you feel safe -- that's how lightly you want to hold them when you're on lead. Next, lead the same route, and focus on using the exact same amount of force on the holds as you used while TRing.
-Jay
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mksclimb
Apr 23, 2004, 4:27 PM
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i find that when i'm overgripping i'm also not breathing. i usually just take a deep breath and try and relax and i find both of those problems fixed.
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dirtineye
Apr 23, 2004, 4:42 PM
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In reply to: Don't use your thumb when you grip.
Wrong.
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vertical_reality
Apr 23, 2004, 4:45 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Don't use your thumb when you grip. Wrong.
Really?
Try it.
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boulder_boy
Apr 23, 2004, 4:46 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Don't use your thumb when you grip. Wrong.
yeah thumbs help alot while climbing. thx for the advice everyone I should probably try TR a bit more often
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fracture
Apr 24, 2004, 1:54 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Don't use your thumb when you grip. Wrong. Really? Try it.
:lol:
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