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lagart
Apr 26, 2004, 11:17 PM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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Hi there, I’ve been training for the last 3 months for a competition held last Saturday. I made a fourth place :D , even though I injured my right ankle the week before. My plan is to schedule a new training program to make it to the podium in the next comp, which will be in November (and that gives me a lot of time). My question is, how much time should I take off right now to regenerate tissue and heal my ankle? Any advice / experience would be greatly appreciated.
Climb on!
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madyak
Apr 27, 2004, 4:14 AM
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Registered: Apr 7, 2004
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Congrats on that finish, that's a great showing.
Me thoughts on the subject:
Rest that ankle until it can take all the falls needed in a bouldering comp and so that the tendons will let you heel hook and stand on dime edges again. You can still work on those nice controlled dynos or campusing to maintain your contact strength, but baby that ankle until its ready - don't push it! If it takes a month, then let it be - that's a lot better than a three-month recovery + rehab for surgery on a seriously screwed up ankle.
As to general resting after a comp, at the least, I take four days off, but that's only if I've been actually training. If I did again what I did this year and my only training for comps was climbing during each of the comps I went to, then I'd have to take off at least a week.
Taking time off, especially after a comp that you pushed yourself hard in reaps great benefits - especially in the psyche for the next comp. On the other hand, training again right after a comp lends itself to either injury, demotivation, or both (in my experience, at least). So give those muscles and tendons time to heal as well as letting your mind relax from what can sometimes be a fairly tense session of climbing.
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overlord
Apr 27, 2004, 12:34 PM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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at least so long that you wont feel any soreness anymore.
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lagart
Apr 28, 2004, 3:37 PM
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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Thanks for the tips guys, I think I will take a week off to rest my climbing muscles, and then I'll start doing some campus, but I won't climb until my ankle is fully recovered (which I think will take at least two more weeks).
Climb on!
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