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timstich
Apr 28, 2004, 4:54 AM
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From the Colorado avalanche center:
This spring significant weak sugar-like snow still lurks on the high elevation Northerly aspects and has been responsible for a number of serious accidents in the N&C mtns since mid March. This weakness snow can lead to avalanches in both cold and dry snow and in warm and wet snow. Don’t let you guard down and think that because it is spring that all slopes and gullies are safe. If you are planning to tackle steep slopes you should be looking for this weak layer (and other weak layers, too) and doing stability tests to determine how well the snow layers are adhering.
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sharpie
Apr 28, 2004, 5:32 AM
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In reply to: Otherwise, check to see it's open to Chihuahua Gulch out of Keystone. Either way, once on the trail it'd be a ridge-walk the entire way. But why not Bierstadt or Quandary? Roads are open to both trailheads.
Ahhh...you learn quickly Skibbyson....
Like a beautiful....but...uhhhmmm...mature butterfly.... :lol: :lol: :lol:
I would be up for Reno's last stand (above 14K)...Ya'll got avy savvy (and gear)???
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coclimber26
Apr 28, 2004, 3:04 PM
Post #703 of 7199
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heading to 11mile today if anyone is in.
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zozo
Apr 28, 2004, 3:18 PM
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Are we counting on 11 mile for saturday. I know a few people are interested. Should we put in in the books? And what about sunday? Suggestions? Eldo might be kinda cool huh? What was that 5 pitch you had your eye on Larry?
Or we could do New Era in the garden and hang out on the east side of Grey Rock.
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crazyfingers
Apr 28, 2004, 3:40 PM
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In reply to: Are we counting on 11 mile for saturday. I know a few people are interested. Should we put in in the books? And what about sunday? Suggestions? Eldo might be kinda cool huh? What was that 5 pitch you had your eye on Larry?
I'm in for Eldo Sunday if anybody needs a follower...
KT
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reno
Apr 28, 2004, 4:26 PM
Post #706 of 7199
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In reply to: Looks as if the georgetown weather is looking for snow accummulation through Friday, then partly cloudy on Saturday and Sunday. Same for Boulder region. Might have some freshies at altitude, meaning avy aware and snowshoes. Guanella Pass would likely still be open which puts you right at the trailhead of Bierstadt. It's only 6 miles R/T which is emminently doable in a day, as long as the winds aren't howling.
Sharpie, Timstich, Martha: We can all agree on Bierstadt? Sounds like a good climb.
Meeting where and when?
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timstich
Apr 28, 2004, 4:40 PM
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Bierstadt sounds fine. I'll borrow some snowshoes. Talk to you on the phone about meeting times and other details.
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coclimber26
Apr 28, 2004, 4:44 PM
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11mile sounds good for saturday and eldo is cool for sunday...I was looking at wind ridge, swanson's arete or werk supp...me and rob are off to 11mile today...looks nice out. My hands are still tore up from turkey rocks time to invest in more tape...I was up at a-basin yesterday and it wasn't looking very good....hopefully this storm dumps..
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reno
Apr 28, 2004, 5:22 PM
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In reply to: 11mile sounds good for saturday and eldo is cool for sunday...I was looking at wind ridge, swanson's arete or werk supp
Swanson's Arete is LOADS of fun. Good exposure, solid moves, good gear.
Tracyroach and I did it a while back, running up the first pitch of Great Zot, then moving right at the ledge to the base of Swanson's. Nice climb.
I'll be in Eldo Sunday as well with mother_sheep. Not sure what we're going to do, but we'll certainly try to hook up during the day, or apres-climb for a cold brew.
Timstich/Sharpie/Skibabeage: Call my cell phone (check your PM for the number) re: Saturday.
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heather2004
Apr 28, 2004, 7:10 PM
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In reply to: Are we counting on 11 mile for saturday. I know a few people are interested. Should we put in in the books? And what about sunday? Suggestions? Eldo might be kinda cool huh?
Sounds like a plan!
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reno
Apr 28, 2004, 10:56 PM
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I'm with Skibbs on this one... Sawtooth might be sketchy with new snow.
Standard Route or North Gully sound OK?
Reading up on them, avy danger shouldn't be much. What say we play it by ear and decide when we get there?
Got a set of crampons today, by the way. Set of Trango Harpoons for around a hundred bucks. 14 points, with option of dual or mono front point. :)
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timstich
Apr 28, 2004, 11:42 PM
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In reply to: Sorry, reno - standard route and north gully are the same thing. I can never remember the names of the most popular routes, so I always call them the "standard." And I love it when you talk dirty (about crampons) to me! But what the hail do you figure you'll need them for in Phoenix? :? :P
The North Gulley is a little variation on the standard route that deviates into...a gulley system. It is #4 in the photo - #1 is the regular route. This deviation adds difficulty to the route.
http://www.14ers.com/...R_Bierstadt_R401.jpg
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timstich
Apr 29, 2004, 2:23 AM
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I reread a post George put up earlier in the month about some avalanches and totally concur with avoiding the North Gulley. Easiest and safest for sure. We do what you say. Hopefully the willows will be the crux. Heh.
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coclimber26
Apr 29, 2004, 4:05 AM
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me and rob just got back from 11 mile...what a nice day to go climbing..we did a trad route called the guide's route..fun stuff on the overhangs at the top...then on the way down we spoted 5 newly bolted face climbs so we jumped on em' the first was pretty easy so we thought we would go down the line...the next was a way harder slab...nothing like trying to mantle on a micro knob :shock: the next one was more slab but a bit easier and the last one was pretty cool...hand crack to fingerlocks to a water streak vertical slab with no holds :shock: so rob and I flailed on it for a bit then left for some good chow at the local restraunt...good times..
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neph
Apr 29, 2004, 5:09 AM
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I'll probably be in Eldo on Sunday as well...
Hope to see you guys there, but should we make plans to meet somewhere afterwards just in case?
Like, the Southern Sun? :D mmm... beer....
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reno
Apr 29, 2004, 5:13 AM
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Beer good. Mmmm... Beer.
Southern Son sounds like a capital idea, neph.
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zozo
Apr 29, 2004, 11:31 AM
Post #718 of 7199
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In reply to: me and rob just got back from 11 mile...what a nice day to go climbing.. then.. for some good chow at the local restraunt...good times..
That does it, Im quitting my job!
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rltodd00
Apr 29, 2004, 1:49 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: me and rob just got back from 11 mile...what a nice day to go climbing.. then.. for some good chow at the local restraunt...good times.. That does it, Im quitting my job!
You should have waited until the END of summer before getting a job. Of course, just look out the window today and you'll see you may as well be at work.
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reno
Apr 29, 2004, 5:24 PM
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RE: Bierstadt Climb Saturday:
Who: Geo sent me a PM, stating he is a "probable." That makes 6 (Reno, Tim, Sharpie, Skibby, Marketa, and Geo.) Should be enough, I think.
When: Meeting at the top parking area of Guenella (sp??) Pass.
When: 0600 hours, 01 May 2004.
Sharpie, Tim: We wanna carpool up there together? Anyone got a vehicle big enough for all 4 of us, including gear? My Jeep ain't big enough, but I'd be happy to share gas $$, etc.
Those with extra avy probes, beacons, etc.: Can you bring them for those of us (like me!) who don't have one?
What else can I bring? Got my own axe and crampons. Got a topo as well, including both routes (standard and north gully.) Will rent snowshoes tomorrow evening. Got all my own clothes, too (lest I climb nekkid, which would cause blindness faster than the glare off a glacier.)
What else?
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bustinmins
Apr 29, 2004, 5:53 PM
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Hello gang! Sorry I've been M.I.A. lately. This whole house thing has gotten a bit out of control in taking up my spare time. :) BTW - still looking. :)
However - I need to throw down on some juggy Eldo routes soon - anyone game?
JD
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crazyfingers
Apr 29, 2004, 6:06 PM
Post #722 of 7199
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In reply to: Hello gang! Sorry I've been M.I.A. lately. This whole house thing has gotten a bit out of control in taking up my spare time. :) BTW - still looking. :) However - I need to throw down on some juggy Eldo routes soon - anyone game? JD
I'm in, how's about Sunday am?
KT
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sharpie
Apr 29, 2004, 6:30 PM
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FYI- Bent Gate rents avy gear for anyne who does not have their own, they also rent crampons and axes. I got a big-ass ride and don't mind driving in exchange for beer. Let's meet at the Turkey Creek park-n-ride on the east side of 285 (about 5 miles west of C-470) at 4:45a.
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coclimber26
Apr 29, 2004, 7:39 PM
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It's lookin like Saturday at 11mile and Sunday at eldo...I plan on doing some longer routes at eldo if anyone is game.
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zozo
Apr 29, 2004, 7:39 PM
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In reply to: Hello gang! Sorry I've been M.I.A. lately. This whole house thing has gotten a bit out of control in taking up my spare time. :) BTW - still looking. :) However - I need to throw down on some juggy Eldo routes soon - anyone game? JD
I was about to ppost some dramatic story about how you went down in the pacific ocean on a secrert mission for the C.I.A - I guess house hunting can be kinda scary to.
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