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jt512
Apr 17, 2002, 7:52 PM
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Quote:Are you willing to trust the the quickdraw wont unclip...
Yes.
Quote:
and going into the process of technical rope work to save yourself a $1.50 that a quicklink would cost?
You should never leave a quicklink, or anything other than a biner (or a quickdraw if you're stupid enough) behind on a sport route. Leaving a quicklink is inconsdierate of the next climber, who is going to have to unscrew and clean your quicklink, possibly on lead. Don't force someone else to clean up your mess.
-Jay
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wallhammer
Apr 19, 2002, 11:07 PM
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The locking sleeve on locking carabiners can break at only 500 lbf, and there have been several deaths while rappelling with a figure 8 because of this. A recent issue of the UIAA's magazine has an article on the subject (which discusses other gear failures, too, IIRC). It's on their website.
-Jay
feel free to use this biner as your ONLY piece to rap off.
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frawg
Apr 19, 2002, 11:34 PM
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"Too bad they don't come with log books. Some probably have some pretty interesting histories. "
Nice.
I'm going to do that. New Biner. I'm making a log book. I'm going to write the routes down that i've used it on, and when i leave it behind, i'll leave the log book with it. Maybe a little note saying to pass it on. Who knows, maybe one day i'll get my biner and log book back.
Of course, i'm just starting my rack, and it'll be next year before i even start lead climbing.. This is a good idea tho, maybe someone else should try it. I know i will do it when i start leading.
Peaze
frawg
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laplaya
Apr 20, 2002, 12:00 AM
Post #29 of 46
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$6 for a quicklink and $15 for a biner? what you need to do instead of developing newfangled and dangerous rope tricks is shop for cheaper gear. I can buy a whole quickdraw for less then $10 online (new). a quicklink at the hardware store I shop at is about $0.50 to $1...alot cheaper then a $15 beaner, and I dont believe that the integrity of a sport route (not leaving a quicklink) is worth risking my life on a single bolt, and messing with new tricks. thats my $0.50
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jt512
Apr 20, 2002, 12:22 AM
Post #30 of 46
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Why would bailing from a quicklink be safer than from a sling?
-Jay
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laplaya
Apr 20, 2002, 4:53 PM
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because its easier, for one. And unless you climb with snips, I dont think that the sling is going to be any easier to clean from a route. At least in our area, leaving quicklinks on routes is quite acceptable, as long as you lock them. after all, we have them at the top of every route with chains...who knows why. I hate chains, personally.
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jt512
Apr 21, 2002, 8:07 PM
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Laplaya, using the method I described in my first post in this thread, you don't leave anything behind, including the sling.
-Jay
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inflight
Apr 21, 2002, 8:29 PM
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Circumstances always play a role but, I concur with JT512. Leave nothing behind unless you are bailing due to injury or hazardous conditions, even if you climb in another country.
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beyond_gravity
Apr 21, 2002, 8:35 PM
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I remember seeing an add a while ago for these plastic things (that look like nuts) that you clip onto the end of your rope, then when u pull the rope, it pulls the gear down with it. Anyone have any beta on this??
Jeremy
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joemor
Apr 23, 2002, 12:43 AM
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i guess u could just tie a big knot in the end of your rope and that would probably catch any gear as u pulled it.
joe
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laplaya
Apr 24, 2002, 7:04 AM
Post #36 of 46
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Please leave all the gear you want! I like big booty and I cannot lie...
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phreakdigital
Apr 24, 2002, 8:13 AM
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Call me crazy but if you just feed the rope through the bolt for a double rope reppel you can get down...some bolts are sorta rounded anyway. This seems sorta scketchy though.
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howitzer
Apr 24, 2002, 1:21 PM
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Don't rap from just the bolt, it's really not good safety practice - rapping is dangerous enough as is without doing it improperly. I believe that this issue (of rapping from bolts) has been addressed many times here and can be found in any technical manual - follow Jay's advice, he's experienced and knows what he's talking about.
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miagi
Apr 25, 2002, 2:13 AM
Post #39 of 46
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How, Jay's advice is rapping off one bolt using the texas rope trick lol. Anyways, I think the best way to bail is just to use a sling or webbing. Just V-hitch the bolt, thread the rope, and rap down. The next climber only has to pull one end and keep it if he wants. Besides, if you use webbing, it's only around 30 cents a foot. We buy candy bars that cost more than the webbing you leave
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sexton
Apr 25, 2002, 3:37 AM
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Miagi,
Please don't leave webbing threaded through a bolt hanger. It totally screws the next guy climbing after you. The same goes for a quick link. Someone else on this thread has argued that they can just be removed easily. The fact is, after a season, it usually takes wrench to losen the rusted bastards.
Just think how you'd feel coming up to that crux move at your limit, and having to remove someone else's trash off the bolt.
Leave a biner. Easy to remove, and can be clipped into safely if not removed.
It doesn't cost anything. You find as many as you leave, at least if you're climbing in popular areas.
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liudolf
Apr 25, 2002, 4:39 AM
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This is why I love my crag. No problems like this at all! My benevolent local climbing dealer (the only guy who stocks anything at all on Oahu) uses ALL his profits to better the crag! So we've got carpet squares to chill out and rest on, medical gear, a topo of the crag, all built into a big chest right there at the wall.
PLUS, and this is the best part, he has fixed almost every climb to where you can toprope it. Two bolts at the top, with chains and a rap ring, through the rap ring is thin accessory cord running all the way to the ground, where the excess is wrapped around a scrap of bamboo and stuck in a low tree branch. Once you get there, you can tie a few half-hitches around your own rope, haul it up the wall, flagpole style, and watch as it slips through the ring and comes back down to you. When you and your buddies are done, just tie the cord to your rope and bring it back down, with no gear lost. Instant toprope, with no hiking access to the top!
So once I start leading, all I have to do is get to the top, clip into a bolt (off belay) and send my rope to the ground through the rap ring, then earthward I go!
The only problem is, it's the only crag on the island.
Them's the breaks.
Liudolf
[ This Message was edited by: liudolf on 2002-04-24 21:41 ]
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phreakdigital
Apr 25, 2002, 5:22 AM
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I think the post was for those routes that cant be TRd and you cant get to the top, but the carpet squares are a good idea.
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jt512
Apr 25, 2002, 10:51 PM
Post #43 of 46
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Phreakdigital, never run your rope through the bolt hanger to rappel. The inside edge of the hanger is too thin and will damage, or even cut, your rope. There is one exception -- the Metolius Rap Hanger -- which is made specifically for this purpose. You must be able to identify, though. Here is a picture of one. Note how the bottom of the inside edge is rounded. According to Metolius, a minimum of two Metolius Rap Hangars must be threaded. If you are ever unsure whether a hanger is a Metolius Rap Hanger or not, play it safe, and don't run your rap rope through it.
-Jay
[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-04-25 15:55 ]
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laplaya
May 2, 2002, 5:51 PM
Post #44 of 46
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I had a quick and easy question, and it seems so obvious, but maybe its just me.
Is no one concerned in the least bit that a hanger could cut through a sling/webbing as easy or easyer then it could through your actual rope? I mean sure, if it did, you wouldnt lose as much gear (a sling is easyer to replace then a rope, but not if you are dead!) People do this with webbing directly through hangers here to set top-ropes and I cringe and clean when ever I see it.
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jt512
May 2, 2002, 7:02 PM
Post #45 of 46
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Quote:Is no one concerned in the least bit that a hanger could cut through a sling/webbing...
Rappelling off of slings threaded through bolt hangers has always been a standard practice in trad climbing. The slings must be in good condition, however. Old slings can and do break.
-Jay
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tygereye
May 2, 2002, 8:51 PM
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Don't forget the option to just downclimb the route and clean it in doing so.
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