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fredrogers
Jun 30, 2004, 9:24 PM
Post #126 of 140
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In reply to: maybe I've just totally given in to the Dark Side...
If you climb for yourself then there is no "Dark Side".
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jcinco
Jun 30, 2004, 9:39 PM
Post #127 of 140
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In reply to: My hardest onsight I'm pretty sure had draws hanging already, but noone was telling me where to go , so I'm taking it as the OS, not a flash...
"Taking it"? What does that mean? So you can put it up on 8a.nu?
Call it what you will, but since we're getting into semantics here, most people would call that a flash. I guess it depends on what your motivation is when you climb, I guess.
I don't have a problem with how the sport definition of redpoint has changed to mean "send"... after all, linking the moves together is all that matters when you're working a route. If I plan on working something, I'm psyched on having the draws up there.
But I agree with alpnclimber1 in some ways. My most rewarding sport climbing experiences have been onsights, where I send a route first-go hanging the draws. When the draws are already there, the experience isn't nearly as satisfying and I don't feel like I've earned the onsight.
Having a sport definition of redpoint is fine, but "onsight" shouldn't be co-opted.
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therealdeal
Jun 30, 2004, 9:53 PM
Post #128 of 140
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Registered: Oct 29, 2002
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whatever...if you reads the thread I was agreeing w/ Alpnclmbr and just poking some fun at myself...
I'm "taking" it b/c it was damn hard for me and I'm proud of it...if you must know.
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kalcario
Jun 30, 2004, 9:53 PM
Post #129 of 140
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*Call it what you will, but since we're getting into semantics here, most people would call that a flash.*
What if it's got chalk and tick marks all over it? That's a way bigger advantage than pre hung draws. What if you clip your own draws into the fixed ones, does that save the onsight?
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jcinco
Jun 30, 2004, 10:10 PM
Post #130 of 140
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In reply to: What if it's got chalk and tick marks all over it? That's a way bigger advantage than pre hung draws.
I disagree. It depends on the route (type of rock, steepness, etc...). As an example, on many sport routes, chalked holds do not help you read sequences correctly.
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kalcario
Jun 30, 2004, 10:29 PM
Post #132 of 140
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yeah but no chalk at all on the holds makes a difference every time, no matter the type of route or rock, and effects the onsight way more than pre hung draws, so why do draws matter but chalk doesn't?
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jt512
Jun 30, 2004, 11:00 PM
Post #133 of 140
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In reply to: In reply to: My hardest onsight I'm pretty sure had draws hanging already, but noone was telling me where to go , so I'm taking it as the OS, not a flash... "Taking it"? What does that mean? So you can put it up on 8a.nu? Call it what you will, but since we're getting into semantics here, most people would call that a flash. I guess it depends on what your motivation is when you climb, I guess.
I think most sport climbers would call it an on-sight. Flash means you had beta. Draws are not beta.
-Jay
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ikefromla
Jun 30, 2004, 11:26 PM
Post #134 of 140
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In reply to: I think most sport climbers would call it an on-sight. Flash means you had beta. Draws are not beta. |
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rioclimb
Jul 1, 2004, 10:30 PM
Post #135 of 140
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In case anybody got curious the route is called Zoaster Toaster (Minimum Wall).
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pbjosh
Jul 1, 2004, 11:25 PM
Post #136 of 140
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In reply to: If I was going to kvetch about rating things subjectively, chalk-up holds and tick marks would be at the top of my list, polished holds (especially on limestone) would be second and morphology (reachiness) would be third. Pre-hung draws pale in comparison to those 3.
I agree that on most routes chalked up holds and ticked feet are a MUCH MUCH greater advantage than prehung draws.
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billcoe_
Oct 22, 2005, 4:49 AM
Post #137 of 140
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In reply to: If you don't want your draws stolen, don't leave hanging for any extended time.
Do you feel they are rude for leaving them up in other climbers way?
Just curious.
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jakedatc
Oct 23, 2005, 12:03 AM
Post #138 of 140
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
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oh for the love of bolts(and bumping)...
:deadhorse: :deadhorse: :deadhorse:
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joshklingbeil
Oct 23, 2005, 2:21 AM
Post #139 of 140
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Registered: Jul 6, 2002
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It is not in good style. Would you leave your wallet alone with a cheap whore? I would redpoint and be done with it. Maybe you be climbing more 11c/d. I have seen the wind unclip multiple draws dropping them 50 feet on to hard rock.
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joshklingbeil
Oct 23, 2005, 2:24 AM
Post #140 of 140
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Registered: Jul 6, 2002
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It is not in good style. Would you leave your wallet alone with a cheap whore? I would redpoint and be done with it. Maybe you need to be climbing more 11c/d. I have seen the wind unclip multiple draws dropping them 50 feet on to hard rock.
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