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elron
Aug 10, 2004, 4:19 PM
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If I'm back from N. Conway, I may be up for CH on Sunday. But more importantly, anyone up for climbing there next week? Jen??? Speaking of next week, I'm hoping to hit RedRocks in Gloucester on Tuesday
Rob, I'll try and keep the whining to a minimum. I suppose it would be like if you moved 40 miles away from CR and only got there once a month. I think over time you develop a relationship with a particular area. For my gas money and time, Crow Hill is the best climbing around, short of driving to N. Conway or New Paltz. Challenging, pumpy, leadable routes and a great history. I didn't want to leave last night, but couldn't do much climbing with out either sunlight or flashlights, so we had to bail
Kevin
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robbovius
Aug 10, 2004, 4:42 PM
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In reply to: Rob, I'll try and keep the whining to a minimum. I suppose it would be like if you moved 40 miles away from CR and only got there once a month. I think over time you develop a relationship with a particular area. For my gas money and time, Crow Hill is the best climbing around, short of driving to N. Conway or New Paltz. Challenging, pumpy, leadable routes and a great history. I didn't want to leave last night, but couldn't do much climbing with out either sunlight or flashlights, so we had to bail Kevin
naah, if I lived that far from CR, I'd never get there either. it's all about the famobs dude. on the weekends, I have to be available to deal with my kids, because their mom is most often either at work, or away at the boyfriend's. I can JUST barely do QQ occasionally on the weekends. CH is almost twice as far, timewise.
In all honesty, now that I've been climbing at PC, CR isn't that appealing either, anymore.
I'm really envious of you and everybody else here who can just take off, take a whole weekend day or weekend, every weekend, whenever you want, and go climb all the places I want to go, but can't because of the famobs. I thought by this time I'd have been to the gunks, or rumney, or fricken CH...maybe some day. wahh wahh wahh ;-)
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summit
Aug 10, 2004, 5:25 PM
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Hey Rob how long are you guys going to be at PC tonight? If you guys are going to be around I'd love to come out and say hi. By the time I'm home from work I could get to PC around 6-6:15.
-Eric
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robbovius
Aug 10, 2004, 5:27 PM
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Eric, we'll be climbing until dusk or thereabouts. feel free to come on out.
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mickymac1
Aug 10, 2004, 5:38 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: All this talk of Crow Hill... I wanna go. Sunday anyone? Jen I could be down if nothing else comes up...
I as well. I'm hiking Lafayette and Lincoln on Saturday but would be interested in some rock on Sunday!!
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gilly
Aug 10, 2004, 5:46 PM
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Stop it with the " distance to the climbing " talk. It hurts me just to read about those far-off areas like QQ or CR , let alone Crow Hill or New Hampshire.
No Rob, that chimney doesn't count.
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elron
Aug 10, 2004, 5:53 PM
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Rob, Chad, Sue, and other family-type climbers... what about a family weekend at the Gunks? Bring the kids, the spouse, the dog, whatever. Well, maybe not the dog, thats up for debate.
I'd be psyched to get a chance to climb some multipitch with all of you and I'm sure most others here would too. Heck, we'd even watch our language and sexual innuendos! Okay, maybe Cory won't, but we'll just muzzle him when the kids are around.
Anyways, just a thought.
Kevin
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robbovius
Aug 10, 2004, 5:54 PM
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In reply to: Stop it with the " distance to the climbing " talk. It hurts me just to read about those far-off areas like QQ or CR , let alone Crow Hill or New Hampshire. No Rob, that chimney doesn't count.
"and thus was Robbovius delivered the proper perspective"
;-)
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jakedatc
Aug 10, 2004, 6:03 PM
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Rob don't feel too bad for Gilly.. just remember how long he was out in J Tree surrounded by thousands of feet of slabs and vertical rock. hehe
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wideguy
Aug 10, 2004, 6:12 PM
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In reply to: Rob, Chad, Sue, and other family-type climbers... what about a family weekend at the Gunks? Bring the kids, the spouse, the dog, whatever. Kevin
Kev, I love the idea but this year is not gonna happen. I just got back from a REALLY expensive camping weekend with the fam and saving the rest for our trip to Disney in October.
PLUS, Mrs. Wide is currently in the process of creating Nano-Wide!!!
That's right campers, official announcement, Mini-Wide and Micro-Wide will soon have another sibling to torture come March.
So the prospect of dragging her to a place like the Multi-Abuse area, OR getting permission to go solo, both fairly unlikley at this point. 8^)
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wideguy
Aug 10, 2004, 6:18 PM
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In reply to: :D :D :D now for gods sakes stop it!
Thanks Derek.
and we HAD stopped!!! Apparently hormones mean NOTHING to the Mrs. 8^)
BTW, We gave away ALLL our stuff, strollers, high chairs, bouncy swings, CLOTHES... so if anyone knows anyone getting rid of that kinda stuff lemmee know
:?
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mickymac1
Aug 10, 2004, 6:21 PM
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You knocked up the old lady?!!! :shock: Christ Chad, you'll never get that bike now! :wink:
(Congrats kid!!! I wish you and yours nothing but the best!!)
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ratherbe
Aug 10, 2004, 6:24 PM
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In reply to: If I'm back from N. Conway, I may be up for CH on Sunday. But more importantly, anyone up for climbing there next week? Jen??? Speaking of next week, I'm hoping to hit RedRocks in Gloucester on Tuesday
Next week? Man, I'm just trying to get through this week. Then again, this week doesn't allow for much climbing time for me, so planning the next day of rock sounds like a good idea. Red Rocks on Tuesday - I haven't been there, I'm game. And maybe CH on Thursday? Let's talk carpooling too.
Jen
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gilly
Aug 10, 2004, 6:39 PM
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In reply to: Rob don't feel too bad for Gilly.. just remember how long he was out in J Tree surrounded by thousands of feet of slabs and vertical rock. hehe
Yah, but that means that I'm jonesing BIG-time.
Congratulations Chad.
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elron
Aug 10, 2004, 6:44 PM
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congrats chad! there's always next year... and the gunks aren't going anywhere!
Kevin
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robbovius
Aug 10, 2004, 6:46 PM
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In reply to: Rob, Chad, Sue, and other family-type climbers... what about a family weekend at the Gunks? Bring the kids, the spouse, the dog, whatever. Well, maybe not the dog, thats up for debate. I'd be psyched to get a chance to climb some multipitch with all of you and I'm sure most others here would too. Heck, we'd even watch our language and sexual innuendos! Okay, maybe Cory won't, but we'll just muzzle him when the kids are around. Anyways, just a thought. Kevin
It's a good idea, but unfortunately my daughters ain't campers, and anyway my kids' interest in rock climbing is casual/marginal at best. Otherwise they'd be coming with me to that other places I climb regularly, as I ask them if they want to come climbing every time (I bought a pair of shoes for the girls to use off ebay, and Cody can ALMOST use mine. Caitie's got an older BOD harness and I have two others) They've been exposed, and encouraged, but they're just not into it.
Jake, yeah I forgot that ;-)
anyway, I'm gonna be at Purgatory Chasm tonight...Jason, you in?
Wide, way to go! you dog ;-)
Gilly, comin' up to PC tonight? ;-)
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gilly
Aug 10, 2004, 7:06 PM
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Sorry Rob, I didn't bring any gear with me. For some reason, I haven't been able to get to this thread until an hour ago. Are you planning another trip there , either later this week or next ? I could try to fight my way through Providence , but probably couldn't get there before 5:30.
If you give me a day for next week I could play hooky and maybe get Cathy to come along.
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robbovius
Aug 10, 2004, 7:18 PM
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dave, let's talk about it more, I knowm shane and I are pklanning on making PC a weekly destination, and if the weather was looking to cooperate, I'd go there this friday becasue I have the day off.
climbing is allowe3d there saturdays, but it's better to get there earlier, though if we had enoguh people we could take turns guarding the anchors from the hikers up top.
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gilly
Aug 10, 2004, 7:33 PM
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In reply to: dave, let's talk about it more, I knowm shane and I are pklanning on making PC a weekly destination, and if the weather was looking to cooperate, I'd go there this friday becasue I have the day off. climbing is allowe3d there saturdays, but it's better to get there earlier, though if we had enoguh people we could take turns guarding the anchors from the hikers up top.
I'm free after 4 any day except Wed. Saturdays would be OK as well, I'd just have to get a friend to pick up my mail for me. I don't generally bring my gear with me to work, so a day's notice during the week would be neccessary.
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jakedatc
Aug 11, 2004, 1:30 AM
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not a bad trip to purgatory... did an 8 and a 9 that were somewhat awkward but made you think a bit if you wanted to stay on the wall hehe
rob got the 8 after a few tries with much grunting but ended with a triumphant cheer. was getting too dark before he could take more runs on the 9 to figure that thing out.. Eric did pretty well for only having climbed for a short while.. his height will become a real asset once he gains some experience
Derek that 10 on the left side looks fun man.. i gotta try it next time
lata
Jake
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robbovius
Aug 11, 2004, 3:22 AM
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Jake yeah, Purgatory was sweet, maximum climbing hotness, not without it's own sketchy moments, most of which came when setting the anchors.
Ahem, if you'll all open your BR guides to "Purgatory Chasm", thank you...
jake showed up at my appt before I got home from werk, I grabbed my gear and we bailed, arriving at the chasm about 5:15.
we hiked in, took a look at the Lover's leap wall and decided to set up to the left of the climb that shane and I worked on last tuesday a combo of Charon and Acheron. Jake set up over the 5.9 "Paradise Gained" (also called the "hourglass slot") and I set up over its neighbour, 5.8 "Paradise Lost".
Getting to the ledge where I set the anchor over the route was probably the sketchiest climbing I did all day, as it involved traversing to a ledge around a corner where the ledge began, about 10 inches wide, with 45 feet of air under my butt. around the corner the ledge widens to 4 feet quickly, but getting around that corner with my full crag pack was a bit fretfull.
after I built the anchor (all gear) and dropped the rope, I decided to rap off, and used jake's rope which was set up on a safety anchor to rap down to the next ledge so I could traverse right over to my rope and clip in there...rapping the short distnace down jakes rope went well enough until I got to the ledge and realized I'd left my second belay device in my pack, which was now on my back, closed up...and I hadn't set up a brake-hand autoblock on jake's rope, because, well, I guess I was stupid at that point.
the solution I came up to with switch ropes worked out okay, though I invite comment...
I took my autoblock setup and rigged it around jake's rope above the ATC, and then made sure it would hold my weight without slipping (sort of like a prussic) and then unclipped his rope from my ATC. Tehn I travesred over enough to grab my rope, and threaded that thru my ATC an clipped in to my harness, so that I was safetied on both jake's rope and mine at that point (although I had to keep my hand on the brake side of my rope because it didnt' have an autoblock set up.) I then unclipped the autoblock and unnwound it from jake's rope,
I suppose at that point I should have just rapped off non-autoblock style, but somehow I got it into my head that I really needed an autoblock, and so, maintaining my grip on the brake side, I laboriously re-threaded my autoblock, one-handed, onto the brake side of my rope. at one point during this whole process, balanced on the edge of the ledge on the balls of my feet, maintaining my balance against the overhung slab above thru fricken body tension alone, I noticed that my hands were shaking.
anyway i got the autoblock done, and then rapped off, to the delight of the trio of 7-8 year old boys spectating with their mom, dad, and another woman.
then we climbed, and I will say it now, Paradise Lost is a FUN .8, with a bunch of awkward balancy moves and a neat roof crux that spit me off and sent me for a scary swing twice. I recommend it! I wore the groovy purple helmet (hey Piotr! where's my damn "Fear the Purple Helmet" pics?) and good thing, becasue I hit my head every time I came up under the roof.
the best part of the eveing, for me, was on my third repeat of Paradise Lost, I pulled the roof as I'd done twice before, and thru a combination of total thuggery and brute force of will, made the crux, but only after two heroic saves...;-) well, I felt like a hero anyway. I was totally stoked 'til next week. I shouted, I cursed, I w00t'd, I got laughed at. it was keen. No, it was greater than keen. It was... Cugat!
of course, Jake cruised it first try. basstige. ;-)
jake also cruised the hourglass slot, and I tried it, got to the beginning of the hourglass, but then got discombobulated and bailed after a couple tries. Kept hitting my helmeted head on the overhang, very distracting. next time.
Eric did a great effort, getting to the roof of Paradise Lost twice and trying the crux gamely both times. great effort for someone who's only climbed roped once or twice before. Paradise Lost is not a beginner's warmup.
Good climbin' with ya dude.
Gilly, if the weather cooperates, as I mentioned before Shane and I plan to make PC a regular tuesday night climbing spot. I dig the hell out of it. next week for sure. this saturday i could go there in the early afternoon, though that's prime family/hiker time. As Iv'e mentioned, we'd maybe want anchor guards up top.
A couple other comments: expect spectators, though on weeknights they seem few. most were enjoying watching us. Give yourself a bunch of time to set the anchors, over the lover's leap wall anyway, as access to the anchor ledges qualifies as a climb in and of itself. we got there at 5:15, and I looked at my cel phone clock after I rapped off, and it was 6:10.
we climbed until 8:00 and then pulled anchors (thanks jake).
Quality climbing on fun routes, though next time I might bring a small whisk brush to deal with some of the dirty holds.
kickass times.
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summit
Aug 11, 2004, 3:49 AM
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Right on Rob and Jake, great time climbing with you guys today. Fun seeing Jake shoot up the 8 and 9 with style and Rob conquer that crux on Paradise Lost. Hopefully by the end of this summer I can get myself over that #$%@ :P Thanks again for climbing with a beginner, getting to watch you guys climb and try it out myself is really going to benefit my climbing. Good times today, hope to see you guys out there again soon.
-Eric
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gilly
Aug 11, 2004, 1:21 PM
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OK Rob, I'll bring my stuff next Teus. if the weather looks promising.
Do you have any idea of the " drying time " for the area ? It looks like a soaking from those storms come the weekend.
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robbovius
Aug 11, 2004, 1:27 PM
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Dave, I dunno, but I can ride out and check conditions though, like monday evening, or something.
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gilly
Aug 11, 2004, 4:10 PM
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In reply to: Dave, I dunno, but I can ride out and check conditions though, like monday evening, or something.
It's not a big deal Rob. Unless we get heavy rains through Friday, I'll take my chances and drive out there.
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