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marz
Aug 20, 2004, 6:54 PM
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hey folks. Is MetroRock full opened or are they only doing limited hours or the like?? thanks
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elron
Aug 20, 2004, 7:02 PM
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Marz, Metrorock is not officially open yet. As I understand it they are waiting for building inspector approval. However, they are welcoming climbers to come in and check out the facility free of charge. It really is a great gym. I know where I'll be spending my weeknights this winter :)
gymnastc, I don't know exactly what time I'll get there... depends on traffic. Lets meet at the dirt lot by 5:00. Its about a quarter mile past the paved lot, on the right hand side
Kevin
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jakedatc
Aug 20, 2004, 7:12 PM
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I'll probably just stay here... its hot and muggy and not really motivated to go anywhere but in the lake after i mow the lawn
have fun
jake
edit.. just talked to rob.. lovers leap was seeping and gross so he's bailin out .. he wanted summit and whoever else to know
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summit
Aug 20, 2004, 8:48 PM
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bummer, thanks for the info.
-Eric
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robbovius
Aug 20, 2004, 11:24 PM
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Eric, glad you got the word...
there was a lot of condensation and seepage on the Lover's Leap face, Paradise Lost would have been even more difficult. Geryon was better, but the entire overhung area at the start was wet. bummed me right out.
jake thanks for getting the word posted up.
looks like PC won't be good again until tuesday or so.
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tubby874
Aug 21, 2004, 8:18 PM
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Registered: Mar 19, 2004
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In reply to: In reply to: hey i was worndering what r the best and most chalenging faces at QQ Of course there's lots of good routes on the Prow, but the two of you have climbed there enough to know that. So I can't really answer your question without knowing how hard (up to 5.12, V?) you want to climb. Also depends on what style (slab, thin face, crack, overhanging) you guys are looking for. Say more and I'd be happy to answer your question... otherwise buy a copy of (the new) Boston Rocks, and see for yourself. GO
i was thinking some 5.8- 5.10 and up to v2's
i have done m face and c wall but not realy any others
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orangekyak
Aug 21, 2004, 8:53 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: hey i was worndering what r the best and most chalenging faces at QQ Of course there's lots of good routes on the Prow, but the two of you have climbed there enough to know that. So I can't really answer your question without knowing how hard (up to 5.12, V?) you want to climb. Also depends on what style (slab, thin face, crack, overhanging) you guys are looking for. Say more and I'd be happy to answer your question... otherwise buy a copy of (the new) Boston Rocks, and see for yourself. GO i was thinking some 5.8- 5.10 and up to v2's i have done m face and c wall but not realy any others
The best wall for bouldering up to v2 is the "hi emily" wall. from the prow look south into the big quarry for the namesake graffitti. BRv2 lists at least 6 separate problems between v0 and v2. my favorite is "Emily Right," which is listed at v1 and described as " the left-facing flakes up the Y in 'Emily.'" Sit down start, and I give it a solid v2. The book gives a star to "see emily play" ("v1, delicate or dyno"), which climbs the face right through the salutation.
For TRs, most people find the right side of the prow to be quite challenging. All 5.8-10+, and they all make you work.
Heed gabe's advice and get the new book. It's a big help.
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jakedatc
Aug 21, 2004, 11:01 PM
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Or be super lazy and just look at the routes data base maybe??
I had a fun day at Metro rock with Julia and alex then they left so i climbed with Andy lamb and his dad.. then got a day ending belay from maura's (14 yr old that pulls 13's indoors siiiick) dad .
I got a lot accomplished and am feeling super positive about some routes i wanna send up north soon :)
julia ur on ur way chica stay positive and you'll be back soon :)
oh ya.. gabe i'm ready for ur beta now lol i didnt even see the 2nd foot the last time (i'm sure it's quite useful).. and i might have tried the correct beta..while cursing the "only for under 5'5 foot chip.. but i suck at bouldering right now..
roofjughauls4lyfe
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summit
Aug 22, 2004, 10:27 PM
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Bummer man I was just down there. I didnt think to check this board first. I put up some shots from a few problems Here. Good time this weekend, glad we had the weather on our side today.
-Eric
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wideguy
Aug 23, 2004, 1:03 AM
Post #8660 of 22774
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Evening folks. Spent the day at Purgatory Chasm with the fam. No climbing on Sundays of course but had fun none the less. Snapped a whole bunch of pics with my digi. Some are approved already. Would appreciate any help filling in details, route names grades etc, Photos are not high grade but are passable (better than Rob's :wink: ) and should at least help people see some of the potential down there.
More to come but frankly couldn't remember which faces they were. 8^)
Chad
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wideguy
Aug 23, 2004, 1:30 AM
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Work great as long as there is that 5 finger "Helper Ledge" under there at all times.
Special added bonus, THEY BLINK!! Easy tracking at night!! 8^)
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ratherbe
Aug 23, 2004, 1:46 AM
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Registered: Mar 11, 2004
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I didn't climb this weekend, so I have no trip report to share, but a rainy triathlon with a longer than expected swim and an outstanding jaunt up Mt Washington were good fun, thanks for asking. :)
Ok, back to climbing... I'm already thinking about the upcoming weekend ... anybody want to go to the Gunks? Please PM me.
Jen
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summit
Aug 23, 2004, 4:21 AM
Post #8664 of 22774
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In reply to: Evening folks. Spent the day at Purgatory Chasm with the fam. No climbing on Sundays of course but had fun none the less. Snapped a whole bunch of pics with my digi. Some are approved already. Would appreciate any help filling in details, route names grades etc, Photos are not high grade but are passable (better than Rob's :wink: ) and should at least help people see some of the potential down there. More to come but frankly couldn't remember which faces they were. 8^) Chad
Wideguy, you got a great picture of paradise lost:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=38361
It starts on that diagonal right sloping crack just above the date; you follow that to where it ends then strait up and over the roof. It’s labeled at 5.8 in BR, real fun climb.
-Eric
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jakedatc
Aug 23, 2004, 10:41 AM
Post #8665 of 22774
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yea... i hope those people didnt try to TR paradise lost or holy swing.. i dunno the name of the route but they are set up on the 5.5/6 sumtin like that
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=38362
the wide crack going from way left up to the right ending at the tree is paradise gained .. start to paradise lost is to the right
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wideguy
Aug 23, 2004, 1:12 PM
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Jake, no they weren't climbing. they were rappelling and jugging only. Some local fire dept. I think. The bright orang line is a HUGE static rescue line. Apparently climbing on Sundays isn't allowed but rapping and ascending is, if you're so inclined
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elron
Aug 23, 2004, 1:36 PM
Post #8667 of 22774
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Registered: Sep 20, 2003
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Argh... I think my web browser is broken. When I visit weather.com the 10 day forecast shows nice sunny weather all week. I know that can't be right.
So.... where are people climbing this week? I'm up for Crow Hill either today, wednesday, or thursday. Maybe HP on tuesday. sublimeclimb, gymnastc, ratherbe... any of you up for a trip to CH????
Core... I got your voice mail. how is that check-writing hand feeling? Thats quite a workout you gave it! woo hoo for new gear!!!! :)
Kevin
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robbovius
Aug 23, 2004, 2:18 PM
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In reply to: yea... i hope those people didnt try to TR paradise lost or holy swing.. i dunno the name of the route but they are set up on the 5.5/6 sumtin like that http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=38362 the wide crack going from way left up to the right ending at the tree is paradise gained .. start to paradise lost is to the right
Jake, I'm not sure anomore that the route they are set up on is Charon looking in the BR guide and comparing it to teh photo, the sketched details inthe guide are all different, and the BR guide shows a tree to the left right next to Acheron. I think now that those two climbs are farther right of that route, to the right of the tree where we stashed our water bottles & crap before we set up.
I'll have to carefully compare the illustrations in the book with the features on the rock next time I go.
Wide from your pics I made some photoshops with the route lines drawn on them. hopefully they'll get approved quickly.
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gilly
Aug 23, 2004, 2:19 PM
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Hey ROb, are you going to get to PC on Tues??. If so, please post here.
The weekend climbing plans fell through, but I'm going to leave 1 /2 hour early on Tues. if you're going out there.
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robbovius
Aug 23, 2004, 2:33 PM
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Dave, sorry, this week tuesday is out, I have to pick up Pam from Logan in the afternoon, and drive her back to get her car. I have friday off though, wanna play hooky?
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cracklover
Aug 23, 2004, 2:40 PM
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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Did my first climb on Cannon, yesterday. WOW. That's a big cliff. Moby Grape. Eight pitches, and many of them were rope-stretchers (or almost). Great climbing! I led everything, which was exhausting, but satisfying. Biggest, most committing climb I've ever done.
GO
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gymnastc
Aug 23, 2004, 2:42 PM
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Registered: Jun 21, 2004
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Kev, I'm up for CH on any of those days. They say third time's a charm, right??? HP is also a possibility for me, seeing as how I live 5 minutes from there!
Finally the weather is looking good this week!
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gilly
Aug 23, 2004, 3:14 PM
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In reply to: Dave, sorry, this week tuesday is out, I have to pick up Pam from Logan in the afternoon, and drive her back to get her car. I have friday off though, wanna play hooky?
Let me speak with the partners tonight and I'll get back to you. It 's a deelightful thought, and I would imagine Cathy would go for it.
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ambler
Aug 23, 2004, 3:41 PM
Post #8675 of 22774
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Registered: Jul 27, 2002
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In reply to: Did my first climb on Cannon, yesterday. WOW. That's a big cliff. Moby Grape. Eight pitches, and many of them were rope-stretchers (or almost). Great climbing! I led everything, which was exhausting, but satisfying. Biggest, most committing climb I've ever done. GO |
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