|
ax
Jul 12, 2004, 10:16 PM
Post #1 of 7
(2629 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 24, 2001
Posts: 155
|
At Devils Lake WI...
are the routes considered sandbagged or soft?
Also... I may be heading out that way on a little business trip next week and may take an extra day for climbing on Thursday the 22nd.
It'd be nice to have a partner that day to rope up and get on a few of the harder routes.
Anybody reliable climbers/belayers available?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
matixa
Jul 13, 2004, 1:18 AM
Post #3 of 7
(2629 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2004
Posts: 85
|
Hey!
I live in/near minneapolis and am always up for a road trip (!), however I have a friend coming up the 23rd (we're talking July, right?)and can't get away that weekend.
If you got another weekend here I'd love to go. FYI-I climb 5.10ish, but have always been a 2nd on trad. Also, I've been to most places around here (blue mounds, red wing, taylors), but haven't been to Devil's Lake...Yet! So-sorry-no beta for ya.
e-mail if you get another chance to go. I'd love to check it out myself.
|
|
|
|
|
jookyhead
Jul 13, 2004, 2:21 AM
Post #4 of 7
(2629 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 2, 2003
Posts: 667
|
From what I've heard, the climbs can be hard for their grade, but mostly due to the type of rock.
|
|
|
|
|
ax
Jul 13, 2004, 3:52 AM
Post #5 of 7
(2629 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 24, 2001
Posts: 155
|
Thanks anyway but being a business trip it'd be a one day during the week thing... which from what I've heard is the only way to beat the crowds there. I'm coming from Michigan so for weekend roadtrips The Red and The New seem to be alot more worth the 6-7 hour drive.
In reply to: From what I've heard, the climbs can be hard for their grade, but mostly due to the type of rock.
Awesome! ... the harder the better ;)
Thanks...
PEACE
Well I suppose I'll find out how good the bouldering is there then... heh heh...
|
|
|
|
|
ramylson
Jul 28, 2004, 3:12 PM
Post #6 of 7
(2629 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 17, 2000
Posts: 317
|
The majority of the climbs at DL are sand-bagged. Typically, almost two grades (a 5.8 is probably more along the lines of a 5.9+ elsewhere). But, it's all relative, and definitely doesn't hold true to every climb. Anyway, a lot of this happened due the nature of the development of the area during it's "time". Also, taking into effect that a lot of the face climbing is done on top-rope versus lead. During the hardman era, a lot of these face climbs have actually been led. In fact, most of the locals will say that any route can be led at the lake, but you'll really have to "work" gear. I know of several accounts of duct taping hooks to dime edges as "protection".. :shock: :wink:
Bouldering can be iffy, but it depends on what you're into and what you're looking for. There are a lot of good problems at the lake that really haven't be mentioned on the site, due to where they're located or when it was developed. Kind of a local deal I guess, but a lot of it is an effort to keep any issues from developing between climbers and DLSP/DNR (remember, we don't have a climbing plan and things look kind of iffy for the future). Anyway, the biggest problem is going to be protecting landings, as there's almost always some jagged rock sitting right in the landing zone.
|
|
|
|
|
wildtrail
Aug 30, 2004, 8:01 AM
Post #7 of 7
(2629 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 6, 2002
Posts: 11063
|
In reply to: From what I've heard, the climbs can be hard for their grade, but mostly due to the type of rock.
Right. They are sandbagged in essence that the ratings are soft. Expect the routes to climb harder than their actual rating.
Cracks like Berkeley and Brinton's (both 5.6) are NOT for the 5.6 leader. You best be proficient at leading 5.9 to not have the route scare the hell out of you. :wink:
The rock is very smooth quartzite. The rock does not offer friction.
|
|
|
|
|
|
