Actually it is my view that jt512 is the most annoying feature of this site. while he may be a wealth of information and be a super 5.13 climber, his manner and poison pen cause me to pretty much discount everything that comes from his ip.

I watch his posts purely for entertainment now... just waiting to see who the next unfortunate will be to fall under the thunderous tap-tap-tap of his keyboard. basically a know-it-all who seems to enjoy beating up the other kids in the playground rather than helping them out.

just my 2-bits
rd

while he may be a wealth of information and be a super 5.13 climber, his manner and poison pen cause me to pretty much discount everything that comes from his ip.

He is the one who finally illustrated for me the true danger to using a daisy chain as a climbing anchor, a direct and compelling impact on my own personal safety habits. It doesn't get much more primary than that, eh?

probably not hte post to ask this in but what are the problems of using a daisy chain as an anchor?

2 bits for that drivel? Are you trying to screw us out of $.25?

Curt

Awesome hijack! We need a rating system for this. H4.

....well, for starters, daisy chains aren't sewn slings to be taking whippers on, let alone using them at the anchors. They are made with aid climbing in mind, to utilise with body weight and associated forces. I do not think they are sewn to be used as ordinary slings.... they may hold a fall but 'may' is not a strong word.
...any other takers?... explain away...

This isn't like in that movie where Pod People take over people is it?

Dingus thats just damn amazing and appreciated.

probably not hte post to ask this in but what are the problems of using a daisy chain as an anchor?

From: Chris Harmston Subject: Re: Belay anchors: why not use daisy chains?
Date: 1997/12/16
Message-ID:[Pine.A41.3.95q.971216174607.66296d-100000@blkdia.bdel.com]#1/1

Daisy's are weaker than runners because, as the pockets rip out, damage to the webbing occurs at the pocket tacks. In static testing the pockets rip out until you are in the standard runner configuration. The web breaks at the damaged area of one of the pocket tacks.

In factor 2 falls with 185 lbs of steel I have seen some break outright without popping all the pockets! I have also seen them hold factor 2 falls and pop all pockets. Dynamic loading is not the same as the slow pull we use for batch testing and rating. Runner materials do not stretch like your ropes does. Use your rope for your primary anchor and use the daisy as a backup and as the adjustability. I have heard reports of daisy's breaking in factor 2 aid falls. The samples I have seen that broke in the field were fairly well worn. Daisy's get worn quite quickly and their strength degrades accordingly. Use your rope as the primary anchor!

I
In the beginners thread you stated the fairly obvious when you said, 'the internet is a primary source of climbing information' or words to that affect. The truth of the statement is fairly self-evident.

But should it be? Nothing to do with climbing but everything to do with the Internet is the fact that it is so easy to ask and so easy to answer that obviously it is most people's prime information source.

Agreed. If you look at the structure of a daisy, the method of sewing drastically reduces the overall strength of the material.

Here's the answer, as posted to rec.climbing by Chris Harmston, the former Quality Assurance Manager at Black Diamond:


-Jay

This is different than the daisy chains that are an intregral part of aid climbing or handy at belays for trad climbers

Perhaps Jt512 will do us the favor of both roasting kachoong for his answer and answer the question in his grand style, right here in his very own "apology thread".

I think that would be great.

-Kate.