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jmlangford
May 21, 2002, 11:05 PM
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The photo on the front of the Falcon book, Self-Rescue shows a guy on the north ridge of Mt. Stewart. I have decided that I HAVE to do that climb the next time I am in the NW. Does anybody have any info on the route, approach, etc? The ridge looks awesome!
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krustyklimber
May 23, 2002, 2:11 AM
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Jody,
The North Ridge is an awesome climb indeed, and the scene of many gumbie rescues. Not that the climbing is hard, just the opposite, it's most popular route the North Ridge is a III 5.7 or 8, depending on how lost you are The climbing is easy alpine style scrambling on an exposed rock spur (take a half dozen 20 foot slings for slinging giant blocks for pro and a light rack that includes small wires) and gains most parties the summit just in time to realize they've blown it, and they will be bivying after all!
This does however reward those climbers with the most spectacular view in Washington State, with half of our Cascades stretched out to the North and the South like the spine of great dinosaur. It is the sunrise, though, that gets the nod as better than sunset. But I think that is because most are happy to have survived an unplanned bivy at 9415ft!
The approach is long (as long as 14 mi) and or grueling and requires crampons for almost all parties (and definitely shorten it). Fred Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guide, vol 1, has all the route and approach info in it. And many other wonderful high climbs.
This might be a good place to hook up with someone who can take you up http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ These guys can be flamers, but there are some good people there too! It's definitely a more alpine oriented site than our beloved RC.com!
I'd consider doing it, but the approach might be too much for me.
I hope this helped,
Jeff
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russman
May 23, 2002, 2:54 AM
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Jody...you are now in MY backyard. I have never climbed it...but I too would love to do it. I know some professers at my alma mater who have climbed it...I can get beta...and mabe even a guide for a trip if we plan it. You want...let me know...I will give it a shot
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jmlangford
May 23, 2002, 5:08 AM
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Thanks for the info! The approaches are generally the easy part for me. The hiking is my strong point! However, at 9000', it is pretty hard to drag my 235lb lard arse up a 5.8 climb...but I like to try! I think I have a new favorite mountain range. Well, okay, second favorite. The Sierra Nevada still has my heart-but I am on a mission to the NW at the first opportunity. I can't believe you can see those mountains from your work, Russ!
[ This Message was edited by: jmlangford on 2002-05-22 22:09 ]
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krustyklimber
May 23, 2002, 5:50 AM
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Jody,
Just about everyone in Washington can see that mountain, not as good as Russ can (he's almost too close)! It looks awesome even from Seattle and is the most dominant feature between Mt Rainier and Mt Baker and I think it is the largest non-volcanic peak in the state's Cascades.
The season for comfortable climbing is short, June through September, so don't waste too much time planning!
Jeff
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