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bldr
Nov 1, 2004, 3:16 AM
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I am looking for beta on a 5 pitch 5.9 at Smith that is on the left as you go over asterisk pass. Does such a route exist? I don't recall seeing it in the Watts guide so any info would be appreciated.
-j
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billcoe_
Nov 1, 2004, 4:39 AM
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It's easy to find, just follow the crowds.
Ryan Lawson route I believe. After you cross asterix, turn left, just past bits and pieces the trail drops down to go around a pinnical. The bolt line starts on the downward side of the pinnacle. 2nd pitch drops down from the top of the pinnacle, step across to the main wall (I feel like Steve Roper here except for the "nail up and left" part), head up and slight left past a short traverse, then up and left some more. The route is pretty obvious from that set of bolts, up to the top and rap down.
Great route, very popular. Bring draws and thats all.
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bldr
Nov 1, 2004, 4:56 AM
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can you get down with a single 60m rope?
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markd
Nov 1, 2004, 5:25 AM
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yes
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shutupandclimb
Nov 1, 2004, 5:46 AM
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Rap down the opposite side from the finishing pitch (~15m). Then walk down and left and there will be the rap station. Rap from here (~25m) to the top of the third pitch, then down two ~25m raps from there.
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sinshan
Nov 1, 2004, 6:08 AM
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Far as I know, the route's called "wherever I may roam" or at least that's what we've always called it. It's a pretty fun route! Especially if you like some exposure.
Just be careful on the rappell, as parties continuously knock down tons of rockfall onto poor unsuspecting sport climbers at the base of the rappell route. I myself have been one of those "poor unsuspecting climbers" and nearly got pelted by dozens of fist shaped rocks kicked off from 300 feet above my head by oblivious rappellers.
:roll: So yeah, be careful. And have a blast!
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bldr
Nov 4, 2004, 7:01 AM
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Thanks for the beta.
I will definately try and watch out for loose rock
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dynoguy
Nov 4, 2004, 7:04 AM
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the fouth pitch is definitely the best, although stepping across to the wall is fun too :D
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coldclimb
Nov 4, 2004, 7:29 AM
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Watch out to stay on route. At the start of the third pitch, two bolt lines head up. One goes up a very sweet overhung fingercrack system and is a very enjoyable pitch, but then you need trad gear to get farther. Take the lower, leftmost bolt line, I am told, and you'll be on route. I never did finish the whole climb after getting off route. :( But man, it's probably worth it to climb that fingercrack, rap back down, and then climb the real route. :D It's an excellent pitch.
And yeah, it is "Wherever I May Roam" :) Does anyone know the name of the crack I wound up on?
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markd
Nov 9, 2004, 4:34 AM
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[quote="Does anyone know the name of the crack I wound up on?
it's called, the unforgiven.
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