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ant
Nov 3, 2004, 7:33 PM
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:idea: What exercises do other climbers use to better prepare themselves for climbs and to increase strength etc.
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andy_reagan
Nov 4, 2004, 1:22 PM
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I boulder 3-4 days a week, unfortunately half of my time is usually spent on plastic, unless I am on a trip.
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overlord
Nov 4, 2004, 1:29 PM
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i climb about 3-4 times a week. now its mostly indoor bouldering/power endurance, but in the summer i try to squeeze in as much rock as possible.
oh, some fingerboard during the winter.
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alucard
Nov 4, 2004, 1:37 PM
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currently climbing indoor atm
current sessions are like this
1. walk to the gym to warm up (10 min walk)
2. Stretch lightly
3. Climb a easy boulder problem
4. Stretch again
5. Climbing a couple of harder boulder problems
6. Down to the walls and do some top roping starting off with a 15 then goinging up by a grade each climb. Currently hitting 17's almost consistantly.
7. After climbing for a bit I move to some traversing. its good for endurance
8. Fingerboard for chinups and core muscle work
9. Stretching
10. Walk home for warm down
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ant
Nov 4, 2004, 7:51 PM
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that sounds like a good stronge routine. do you have any sugestions on training at home
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andy_reagan
Nov 4, 2004, 8:03 PM
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Look up something called "specificity" and try to tailor your workouts around this theory. The theory is not only a tested sports physiological principle, but also intuitively sound.
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climbhoser
Nov 4, 2004, 8:20 PM
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I believe that there are certain types of climbing that require certain types of strengths. For instance, bouldering is very powerful and often explosive while I rarely catch myself hucking a four foot dyno off of micro crimps and smears for a sloper when I'm climbing runout, alpine trad routes (it only happened once, that's why I say "rarely").
Ergo (I love that word), training must cater to your intention. I tend to do a lot of pull-ups, and while I've had many climbers tell me technique and finger strength are more important than how many pull-ups I can do I find that my pull-up strength is extremely helpful. However, I don't do typical, just grab and pull-up pull-ups. If I'm in the thick of trad climbing I'll do as many really slow, full extension pulls as I can. I usually just grab the floor joists that comprise the cieling in my basement. For these I go from a full hang and pull really slow as far up as I can, and I lock off for a second before lowering. Do these until failure. I'll also do a bunch of lockoff exercises such as frenchies (look 'em up) to work my lockoff strength, and I'll run as much as I can, jogging up to three hours a day (two seperate runs).
If I'm bouldering a lot I'll do a lot of really gymnastic workouts. When I had access to a gymnastics facility it was much easier, but the idea is pull as hard and fast as you can and from as many positions as possible. Sometimes I put my feet level with my head (up on something, not just front levered out there) and I'll pull as hard and fast as I can...this can be simulated with dumbells. The same goes for pull-ups. Oh, and here I will work my fingers a lot more as I depend on them more...so I'll do pull-ups on doorjambs or use a fingerboard. I still run, as maintaining my weight greatly increases my performance.
I haven't done much sport climbing, but the training for that is somewhere in between...you want to be powerful for extended periods of time, so work on doing semi-explosive exercises until failure, over and over again. Repetition is key. Unlike bouldering, working out for sport climbing and trad climbing is more time consuming. I can workout for bouldering in a half an hour just pumping as many heavy rep, explosive pulls as I can as fast as I can.
As for alpine stuff and mountaineering you're looking at relying on your legs a whole lot...so, here I really work on running as much as I can, especially uphill, and for as long as I can. I have a lot of clients who have run marathons, triathalons, etc...fail on a mountain as simple as Mt. Shasta because they're just not expecting the sufferfest that it is. It's long and hard, and there really is no training for carrying a heavy pack uphill ALL DAY long at altitude except for doing it. For this I maintain my upper body workouts to keep fit by doing a lot of pull ups, front levers, and of all varying paces from fast to slow.
Also, don't forget the pushups, as they balance out the muscles and keep your joints from getting injured. Also, it seems as if balancing your muscles out keeps them stronger both ways.
hope this helps
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ant
Nov 4, 2004, 10:09 PM
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These are some excellent routines
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climbhoser
Nov 4, 2004, 10:50 PM
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I just saw something on the tv (part of any good training routine) about this very subject. It was a Lynn Hill interview and she talked about a big part of her training routine being something that involved agility and quick decision making. It showed her rock hopping on a jetty, which she said was perfect because it worked the brain by making her decide very quickly which angle she needed to respond to. This mimicked climbing in that decisions on how to move need to be made very quickly.
This actually brings up something I had been conflicted about in the past. Previously in life I felt as though there were two types of athleticism...the methodical and the responsive. I always saw rock climbing as the methodical, sort of a control activity whereas skiing and kayaking were responsive types. I was conflicted because at times I feel I perform better in responsive type activities than I do in method activities, because in responsive activities my choices are limited and I don't get intellectually bogged down.
In other words, despite what Lynn Hill said, sometimes I feel as if climbing gives me too much time to ponder my decisions, unlike jetty-running.
Needless to say, however, that training the mind is as worthy as training the body for climbing
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alucard
Nov 17, 2004, 2:36 AM
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In reply to: that sounds like a good stronge routine. do you have any sugestions on training at home
install a finger board or a chinup bar
work on your flexiblity
and work on your endurance by doing aerobic exercises like running or cycling
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saskrock
Nov 17, 2004, 3:53 AM
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I spent about 5 months training with a coach in Taiwan, in his home gym, and at a crag. He taught me more then I could ever explain in a forum. If you want any info on specific training or a routine to train say endurance or power, give me a shout tara_ethan@hotmail.com. In my opinion though it doesn't matter how hard you train or how many chin ups you can do, if you have poor technique then you will likely always be stranded under 5.13 (if you climb 5.12 already) or under 5.12 if you climb less. Anyway the program/routine I was on pushed me from high 11's to red-pointing 12b's and sending 12d's with a fall or two. Again thought endurance w/tech makes the differance.
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organic
Nov 17, 2004, 4:56 AM
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In reply to: I spent about 5 months training with a coach in Taiwan, in his home gym, and at a crag. He taught me more then I could ever explain in a forum. If you want any info on specific training or a routine to train say endurance or power, give me a shout tara_ethan@hotmail.com. In my opinion though it doesn't matter how hard you train or how many chin ups you can do, if you have poor technique then you will likely always be stranded under 5.13 (if you climb 5.12 already) or under 5.12 if you climb less. Anyway the program/routine I was on pushed me from high 11's to red-pointing 12b's and sending 12d's with a fall or two. Again thought endurance w/tech makes the differance.
Great post I think sometimes we have the strength to pull 5.12 moves but not the endurance or technique. Once I started working my endurance and technique my sport climbing grade jumped so fast because the strength was already there. I suggest doing routes you can run 3 times max and also working routes or bouldering problems you cannot do at all, this helps you work out sequences and improve your technique by learning how to do new moves. Also traversing helps a lot!!! it may seem boring but focus on placing your feet and grabbing poor holds and shifting your body weight.
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bucephalus
Nov 23, 2004, 6:35 AM
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My training routine involves bouldering 3-4 times a week and campusing once a week.
I've found that campusing has pushed my limits, strengthwise, more than anything else - it doesn't make you a better climber, but it gives you a strength base that is hard to get elsewhere.
In terms of campusing, try to find a board with 2 sets of edges - 1.5cm and 2.5cm.
I use the 2.5cm for warmups - sets of 1-4-6, 1-3-6 and 1-4-7, leading with each arm. Once I'm warm, I move straight on to the small rungs. On the small rungs I concentrate on 1-4-6, 1-3-6, and 1-3-6-8 (I'm not strong enough for 1-4-7 yet).
Hope that helps.
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kylekopid
Nov 24, 2004, 12:28 AM
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Registered: Oct 29, 2004
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what is campusing?
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