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Gear : Reviews

Reviews by bruceb (4)


Spirit Carabiner, Anodized (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.74/5 Average Rating : 4.74/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Straight Gates and Regular D's

proven quality workhorse 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: bruceb, 2009-08-23


Not light by today's new standard, these are still some of my favorite biners. I have and still use some of the first generation spirits and the action is still clean and smappy. I have also retired many due to the bolt hanger gouges resulting from dozens of whippers and lots of hang dogging. The keyhold gate was designed for clipping and cleaning sport routes. An area of our sport where they excel.


Oz Carabiner (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Wire Biners

OZ 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: bruceb, 2009-08-23


I like the basice shape and clipablity. The gate action is excellent and probably one of the best I've tried. The ultra thin material on the inside edge near the nose is somewhat concerning. This should not be a problem as long as the biner never rotates in the draw during a fall resulting in the rope running across where the material radius is very narrow. I don't have any concerns using these on the gear end of the draw for clipping stoppers, bolts, knifeblades, etc.


Neutrino Carabiner (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.21/5 Average Rating : 4.21/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Wire Biners

lightweight workhorse 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: bruceb, 2009-08-23


These may be THE best rope-end, light-weight wire gate biner. I think they clip better than the Metolius Inferno. Folks with bigger hands may prefer the Inferno. Inferno is 1g lighter. Nutrinos are also slightly heavier than the new OZ and other tiny, thin clippers, but these will be safer, more durable and easier on the rope if you occassionally take longer lead falls (not talking about just sagging on your gear).


Moses Wire Gate Carabiner Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Wire Biners

Moses 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: bruceb, 2009-08-23


These are great for racking and keeping the weight way down. they have excellent gate action and don't feel tiny like Camp Nanos or similar. These are thin and obviously won't withstand a massive cross-load like a thicker heavier biner. Use them wisely and you won't be disappointed.