Gear : Reviews
Reviews by butofcourse (10)
Superfly Carabiner - Wiregate (Manufacturer link)
popular
Average Rating : 4.65/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Wire Biners
Review
Review by: butofcourse, 2004-10-26
Trango has set the bar for carabiners to a whole new level: full-size, strong, smooth, and 30 gr.
In my mind, this product is revolutionary. Competitors must be scrambling to produce a product to compete with it.
I have started replacing all my biners on my trad rack by these, and I use 2 in opposition instead of carrying locking biners on days I want to minimize weight.
In my mind, this product is revolutionary. Competitors must be scrambling to produce a product to compete with it.
I have started replacing all my biners on my trad rack by these, and I use 2 in opposition instead of carrying locking biners on days I want to minimize weight.
Superclip (Manufacturer link)
popular
Average Rating : 4.00/5
In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear
Review
Review by: butofcourse, 2004-10-05
The bent wire essentially squeezes your biner open, until you pull it off.
Works fine to place biners, although it's a little tough on the biner.
Removing a quickdraw, on the other hand, requires the rope to be taut through the draw, and a lot of skill. Good luck!
Works fine to place biners, although it's a little tough on the biner.
Removing a quickdraw, on the other hand, requires the rope to be taut through the draw, and a lot of skill. Good luck!
Zero Camming Devices
Average Rating : 3.86/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active
Review
Review by: butofcourse, 2004-10-05
I've been free climbing with the Z4-Z6 for several months now -- they are the best small cams I have tried.
I prefer them to TCUs, Aliens, PowerCams, and SplitterGear 2CUs.
The action is smooth, the profile is small, their double sling is great, and they are light.
Team them up with SuperFly biners and you will always want them with you.
I prefer them to TCUs, Aliens, PowerCams, and SplitterGear 2CUs.
The action is smooth, the profile is small, their double sling is great, and they are light.
Team them up with SuperFly biners and you will always want them with you.
Yosemite Bum
Average Rating : 4.23/5
In: Gear: Shoes: Resolers
Review
Review by: butofcourse, 2004-09-21
I sent in my Katanas, I got them back fast, it didn't cost much, but they grinded down the side rand on one of the shoes.
The result is that my left shoe is pretty much shot.
Update: I called them up and they fixed the mistake by re-doing both rands for free.
Looks good - let's see how they work.
The result is that my left shoe is pretty much shot.
Update: I called them up and they fixed the mistake by re-doing both rands for free.
Looks good - let's see how they work.
Flash Velcro Climbing Slipper (Manufacturer link)
popular
Average Rating : 4.04/5
In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro
Review
Review by: butofcourse, 2004-07-20
I have been climbing for the last 6 months with a pair of Flash that cost me $70 and a pair of LaSportiva Katana worth $120 in the US.
Although both fit very differently their rubber performs just as well and the Flash seems to be a little more durable (stiches are coming appart and rubber delaminating on my Katanas).
For me the Flash fit very much like my old 5.10 Anasazi velcros except that the heel fits more snugly. Also, expect some minor stretching.
The only (very minor) drawback of the Flash is that my feet are orange after sweating in them.
If they fit you, get them. If they don't, get a pair of climbing shoes on your next trip to Europe.
Although both fit very differently their rubber performs just as well and the Flash seems to be a little more durable (stiches are coming appart and rubber delaminating on my Katanas).
For me the Flash fit very much like my old 5.10 Anasazi velcros except that the heel fits more snugly. Also, expect some minor stretching.
The only (very minor) drawback of the Flash is that my feet are orange after sweating in them.
If they fit you, get them. If they don't, get a pair of climbing shoes on your next trip to Europe.
