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Reviews by jstp (19)

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Standard Oval Average Rating = 3.17/5 Average Rating : 3.17/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Ovals

Review 2 out of 5 stars

Review by: jstp, 2004-06-10


Among the ovals i have used (OP, metolius, petzl, BD both regular and wiregate, SMC, and tons of generic which i believe are either SMC or OP manufacture) this is my least favorite. They have a high strength rating and a hard to beat price, but that is about it. They are not very good for aid due to their complex, snag prone, shape. The shape helps to give this 'biner its strength, but in generall the shaping seems to cause clutter. I have retired them to slackline use, but even there they are poor because of their shape. i find the SMC, BD or other ovals made of flattened round aluminum stock far superior for simple reductions that utilize just webbing and 'biners.
Pros: economical, strong.
Cons: snag prone shape, poor oval (comparatively) for aid or simple slackline setups.


Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

In: Gear

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: jstp, 2004-06-10


Impecably made 'biners of the quality petzl is renowned for. I purchased a few of these to use on my aiders for snag free clips and in that position they work wonders, especially on bolt ladders. it feels like you are gliding up just hooking the hangers with fifi's, and i never snag. they also make excellent racking 'biners, but are rather expensive for general use. also, they are just a hair offset in shape, not a true oval. i assume this was done for strenght, but it does cause just a bit of biner shift now and again - not good for those who know. it can also be hard to tell which end of the gate goes in with virtually no distinction (the end without the rivet is the only way to really tell, most ovals have the fram slightly protrude past the gate so you can tell which end to clip).
Pros: one of the only oval 'biners with ano-snag keylock gate, beautifully made, great for critical aid 'biners like on aiders and daisies.
Cons: expensive, slightly offset shape, hard to tell which end of gate to clip.


Bug Average Rating = 3.33/5 Average Rating : 3.33/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: jstp, 2004-06-06


Dunno about anyone else but i have had the bug for several seasons now. It sees a lof of intense use and has yet to develop any sharp edges. I have also used ATCs (and HB Sheriffs, and reversos, and gri-gris, and belay plates, eights etc.) and none of the tube style deviced have matched the Bug for durrability or performance.
The anodizing appears slightly thicker than on most tube devices, and is soft anodized, making wear nice and smooth with no chips or edges. If this device is cheaper than an ATC or other comparable device i have never noticed, all tubes seem about the same price. The bug also disipates heat better than at ATC thanks to subtle cooling fins and a larger mass in the body (but the grams don't add to much for you the speed oriented). This little bit of extra mass also gains anoter big advantage on rapel or catching big falls - the rope bearing radius is almost three times what an ATC has (i'm just eyballing both, so don't get to upset if i'm off) and that translates to much smoother rappels and belays. The increased radius also means that the Bug lasts longer than thin walled tube devices (like the ATC) which get pretty sharp edges after a while.
The only thing i do not like about my bug is that after years of heavy service they can be a harder to find than the ATC if you do not have a large shop nearby.


Contact Sling Dyneema 8mm - 30cm (1ft) popular Average Rating = 4.76/5 Average Rating : 4.76/5

In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear: Webbing: Slings

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: jstp, 2004-06-06


Eyeing these for the first time in the shop i was skeptical, they are just sooo skinny. After trying a couple out for a few days i have begun to upgrade my entire assortment of runners (and believe me they needed it). Two ultralight 'biners and one of these runners weighs about half that of a nylon runner and conventional 'biners.
A couple of issues still: i wonder about their abrasion/cut resistance with so little materail, when tripled as a draw slinding them to extend full-lenth past the bar tacks is often a pain, and lastly they are spectra. That means no klemheist or other handy friction knots with them. that alone has kept a few trusty old nylon runners on my rack, never know when you might need them. Still saving me tons of weight! For long trad, alpine or for the afluent aid climber who is in need of a million runners these are defintely worth considering.
Cons: pricey, bar tacks are very stiff, cannot be used for friction knots/hitches like prussiks.

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